MBD HELP

Lexi_117

New Member
Hello! I have 2 veiled chameleons, both rescues. My sister & I raised the older one from a little baby up to a healthy, strong male. We just rescued a smaller veiled female from a negligent home & have had her for a couple months. I’ve noticed her health condition decreasing & she became very weak. I took her to the vet and she’s definitely showing signs of MBD. The vet gave me an extra calcium supplement to give her on top of what I’m dusting her food with and an antibiotic to help with a possible internal infection. We haven’t gotten X-rays done yet because the vet wanted to see if this medicine works for her, but sadly I’m not very confident. I can tel she is in a lot of pain considering she hardly moves and lays in the same spot for hours. Any tips and suggestions to help her would be awesome because it breaks my heart to see her living a painful life.
 

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Welcome to the forum!

She has a pretty no ad case of MBD. MBD not only affects the bones but the muscles and other things as well. More in my next post.

Nice of you to rescue her.

You need to make some changes to the cage...can you post more photos of the whole cage please. For now you might want to make a hospital cage for her so she won't fall and break more bones. More once I see the photos.

Could you answer the questions in the how to ask for help thread near the top of the health forum please?
 
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To correct MBD it's usually necessary to provide extra calcium and make sure she has exposure to proper UVB and proper supplements so she can absorb the extra calcium and make th bones and muscles, etc strong again.

Once the bones are back to healthy, the extra calcium can be dropped and the regular supplement schedule continued along with a good UVB light.

I can add more once I see your answers to the questions and see the photos.
 
I have a female, veiled chameleon who can’t be anymore than 7-8 months old. I rescued her from a family that had gotten her from PetCo and couldn’t take care of her properly.

We don’t hold her very offer because she shows signs of distress and anxiety when handled.

I feed her meal worms, super worms, and crickets dusted in reptisun calcium and D3 powder. I feed her around 8am and she gets fed again around 4:30pm. I have a water bottle that drips onto the leaves in the corner of her cage. I just recently started giving her misting showers when I turn the shower on and let it hit the wall and mist onto leaves held above her for about 15 minutes. Other than that, I use a spray bottle and spray her several times every 5 minutes off and on for an hour. I do see her drinking when I do that.

When I got her, her urates were yellow-orange and now they’re white. She was tested for parasites today.

I’m not sure of her previous history. I do know that weren’t feeding her worms or bugs, they would give her pieces of strawberries and spinach. She had never been seen by a veterinarian or a reptile specialist.

She is kept in a screen cage, 16”L X 16”W X 30”H. I use reptisun light fixtures and 5.0 UVB bulbs. Her lights come on around 7:30am and go off around 8:30pm.

Her enclosure is usually around 80-85F and I just recently moved her basking spot a couple inches higher because she was getting too cold. The lowest overnight temp is 70-72F. I measure the temperature with temp gauges.

I’m not using live plants.

Her cage is in my room. It is near an air vent but I have a plastic cover redirecting the air away from her cage. The top of her cage is about 5.5ft above the floor. I’m located in Missouri, USA.
 

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This is so sad. Poor little girl. 😥 Bless you for rescuing her. I just want to offer encouragement that she can overcome this and have quality of life. When you get the time, check out Sweet Pea on Facebook and Instagram.
 
Welcome to the forum.

I'm seeing the wrong kind of UVB, especially for MBD.
It should be a linear T5 HO, either Reptisun 5.0 or Arcadia 6%—running the entire width (e.g. 24") of the enclosure.

Analog/dial type meters are notoriously inaccurate—up to 40°/40% off.
Digital hygrometers and/or thermometers with probes are more accurate (±2°/2%), and an measure conditions in the microclimates withing the plant canopy.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08Y6CYVT9/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Unless the enclosure is full bioactive, substrate should not be used. It can promote mold, mildew, fungus, and bacteria.

Live plants (and vines) help increase and maintain humidity. Here are some lists of chameleon-safe plants. Those safe for veiled chameleons will be labeled as such:
https://chameleonacademy.com/plants/
https://caskabove.com/chameleon-safe-plants
https://www.madcham.de/en/pflanzen-fuers-terrarium/
https://www.chameleons.info/l/safe-and-unsafe-plants/

A LOT about correct husbandry can be found in the Husbandry Program at Chameleon Academy.com
https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/

There's more, but please copy/paste the questionnaire with your answers filled in (using a different color or font will help with clarity). Include pics from the top (showing all lighting) to bottom (showing drainage).



Chameleon Info:

  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:

  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:

  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
 
Welcome to the forum.

I'm seeing the wrong kind of UVB, especially for MBD.
It should be a linear T5 HO, either Reptisun 5.0 or Arcadia 6%—running the entire width (e.g. 24") of the enclosure.

Analog/dial type meters are notoriously inaccurate—up to 40°/40% off.
Digital hygrometers and/or thermometers with probes are more accurate (±2°/2%), and an measure conditions in the microclimates withing the plant canopy.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08Y6CYVT9/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Unless the enclosure is full bioactive, substrate should not be used. It can promote mold, mildew, fungus, and bacteria.

Live plants (and vines) help increase and maintain humidity. Here are some lists of chameleon-safe plants. Those safe for veiled chameleons will be labeled as such:
https://chameleonacademy.com/plants/
https://caskabove.com/chameleon-safe-plants
https://www.madcham.de/en/pflanzen-fuers-terrarium/
https://www.chameleons.info/l/safe-and-unsafe-plants/

A LOT about correct husbandry can be found in the Husbandry Program at Chameleon Academy.com
https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/

There's more, but please copy/paste the questionnaire with your answers filled in (using a different color or font will help with clarity). Include pics from the top (showing all lighting) to bottom (showing drainage).



Chameleon Info:

  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:

  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:

  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
I’ve answered all questions above! Thank you so much for your help. Would this bulb work? I’m not seeing a linear 5.0 bulb
 

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I have a female, veiled chameleon who can’t be anymore than 7-8 months old. I rescued her from a family that had gotten her from PetCo and couldn’t take care of her properly.

We don’t hold her very offer because she shows signs of distress and anxiety when handled.

I feed her meal worms, super worms, and crickets dusted in reptisun calcium and D3 powder. I feed her around 8am and she gets fed again around 4:30pm. I have a water bottle that drips onto the leaves in the corner of her cage. I just recently started giving her misting showers when I turn the shower on and let it hit the wall and mist onto leaves held above her for about 15 minutes. Other than that, I use a spray bottle and spray her several times every 5 minutes off and on for an hour. I do see her drinking when I do that. HOW MANY INSECTS DO YOU FEED HER IN A WEEK? SO YOU FEED HER EVERY DAY?
THERE'S NO NEED TO SHOWER HER.
THE INSECTS SHOULD BE DUSTED LIGHTLY AT ALL FEEDINGS BUT ONE A WEEK WITH A PHOS FREE CALCIUM POWDER. ON THAT REMAINING FEEDING YOU SHOULD ALTERNATE DUSTING WITH A PHOS FREE CALCIUM/D3 POWDER LIGHTLY AND A VITAMIN POWDER WITH A PREFORMED SOURCE OF VITAMIN A LIGHTLY.
UNTIL THE MBD IS GONE YOU SHOULD ALSO BE GIVING THE EXTRA CALCIUM.

When I got her, her urates were yellow-orange and now they’re white. She was tested for parasites today. GOOD!

I’m not sure of her previous history. I do know that weren’t feeding her worms or bugs, they would give her pieces of strawberries and spinach. She had never been seen by a veterinarian or a reptile specialist. SIGH.

She is kept in a screen cage, 16”L X 16”W X 30”H. I use reptisun light fixtures and 5.0 UVB bulbs. Her lights come on around 7:30am and go off around 8:30pm. THE UVB LIGHT SHOULD BE AN ARCADIA 6% OR A REPTISUN 5.0 LONG LINEAR TUBE LIGHT. NO COLORED LIGHTS AD NO LIGHTS AT NIGHT.

Her enclosure is usually around 80-85F and I just recently moved her basking spot a couple inches higher because she was getting too cold. The lowest overnight temp is 70-72F. I measure the temperature with temp gauges. FOR A FEMALE ITS IMPORTANT TO KEEP THE BASKING AT 80F AND CONTROL HER DIET SO SHE WONT PRODUCE HUGE CLUTCHES OF EGGS ONCE SHES SEXUALLY MATURE. FEMALE VEILEDS WILL USUALLY PRODUCE EGGS EVEN WHEN NOT MATED....SO WE TRY TO CONTROL IT SO THEY DONT HAVE HEALTH ISSUES.

I’m not using live plants.FOR VEILEDS LIVE NONTOXIC, WELL WASHED, BOTH SIDES OF THE LEAVES PLANTS ARE IMPORTANT SINCE THEY WILL MUNCH ON THEM...ESPECIALLY FEMALES.

Her cage is in my room. It is near an air vent but I have a plastic cover redirecting the air away from her cage. The top of her cage is about 5.5ft above the floor. I’m located in Missouri, USA.
 
I feed her around 6-9 insects a day depending on how much she willingly eats. I take the worm or crickets out if she hasn’t eaten then within 30 minutes. Sometimes she will go a day without eating anything.

The misting shower was recommended by the vet to keep her super hydrated and that’s how I got her rehydrated when I first got her.

I’m having trouble finding a 5.0 linear bulb. I’m only seeing a 10.0 bulb. Would you have a suggestion on where to get one?

I keep the temp and humidity pretty stable. And what kind of regulations should I make to her diet?

Also, I’m looking into live plants now :)
 
I’ve answered all questions above!
TBH, it's difficult & confusing trying to put disembodied answers without their respective questions for frame of reference.

The questionnaire was developed in—and has been used since—2005, in order to help those with more/different experience help those with less experience in an organized, standardized way.

For example...
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care? I have a female, veiled chameleon who can’t be anymore than 7-8 months old. I rescued her from a family that had gotten her from PetCo and couldn’t take care of her properly.
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon? We don’t hold her very offer because she shows signs of distress and anxiety when handled.
is much easier to comprehend and expound upon than...
I have a female, veiled chameleon who can’t be anymore than 7-8 months old. I rescued her from a family that had gotten her from PetCo and couldn’t take care of her properly.

We don’t hold her very offer because she shows signs of distress and anxiety when handled.
It doesn't have to be red as I used above; it could be another color, another font, bolded, italicized... whatever. It's for clarity now and for others/lurkers to understand in the future.

Just asking you to help us help you so you get the best information & advice possible. AFAIK, it's been done this way for 16 years.

Would this bulb work? I’m not seeing a linear 5.0 bulb
That type of bulb, yes, but 5.0 like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Reptisun-T5-Ho-Fluorescent/dp/B00AQU8GF0

I would still shop for price, especially if/since you may need to get a T5 fixture as well. "Best Deal"s can change.

In some situations, a 10.0 can be made to work, but the distance between bulb an basking site will need to be increased, and potential damage to human eyes will also increase.
UVB affects the epidermis, or outer layer, of the skin. This results in sunburn, blistering, or possibly skin cancer. In relation to the eyes, it affects the corneas, or the clear front part of the eyeballs. This can cause severe irritation, light sensitivity, and lots of tearing.
https://caringvillage.com/2017/07/19/top-5-eye-problems-resulting-from-uv-exposure/
Glass and many kinds of plastics will block UVB.
 
No, do not put a 10.0 bulb on her. Then you swing the other direction with overexposure. Plus it has to be done correctly with raising it. You want a 5.0 linear T5HO bulb and a T5 fixture for it. Then you want 8-9 inches down to her hammock Since she can not grip you need to make sure the cage is set up right so that she can get out from under the lights if she wants to.


You have had a few month now under the wrong UVB bulb using the compact bulb. This is what causes MBD, not having the right UVI level of UVB. If your male has the same lighting you need to change it as well. Here is the link to a 24 inch fixture that has the 5.0 bulb. https://www.amazon.com/Reptisun-T5-...K,B00LQKATUE,B003UV8T90,B06XYWQJDK,B004CT2OTA
 
Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care? I have a female, veiled chameleon who can’t be anymore than 7-8 months old. I rescued her from a family that had gotten her from PetCo and couldn’t take care of her properly.
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon? We don’t hold her very offer because she shows signs of distress and anxiety when handled.
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders? I feed her meal worms, super worms, and crickets dusted in reptisun calcium and D3 powder. I feed her around 8am and she gets fed again around 4:30pm. I have a water bottle that drips onto the leaves in the corner of her cage.
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule? Reptisun calcium and vitamin D3 supplement. I dust all of her food with it when she gets fed.
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking? I have a water bottle that drips onto the leaves in the corner of her cage. I just recently started giving her misting showers when I turn the shower on and let it hit the wall and mist onto leaves held above her for about 15 minutes. Other than that, I use a spray bottle and spray her several times every 5 minutes off and on for an hour. I do see her drinking when I do that.
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites? When I got her, her urates were yellow-orange and now they’re white. She was tested for parasites today.
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you. I don’t have much on her history. I do know that weren’t feeding her worms or bugs, they would give her pieces of strawberries and spinach. She had never been seen by a veterinarian or a reptile specialist.

Cage Info:

  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions? She is kept in a screen cage, 16”L X 16”W X 30”H.
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule? I use reptisun light fixtures and 5.0 UVB bulbs. Her lights come on around 7:30am and go off around 8:30pm.
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps? Her enclosure is usually around 80-85F and I just recently moved her basking spot a couple inches higher because she was getting too cold. The lowest overnight temp is 70-72F. I measure the temperature with temp gauges
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity? I keep the humidity at a 70% by misting the cage and keeping the leaves wet. I also have a small bowl of water in there. I use a digital and dial hydrometer.
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind? I am not using live plants.
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor? Her cage is in my room. It is near an air vent but I have a plastic cover redirecting the air away from her cage. The top of her cage is about 5.5ft above the floor.
  • Location - Where are you geographically located? Missouri, USA

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.
 
To answer this...Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?...you said... "Reptisun calcium and vitamin D3 supplement. I dust all of her food with it when she gets fed"....
I've never heard of a reptisun brand supplement...but the normally recommended supplementation schedule is...dust all the insects at all feedings but one a week lightly with a phos free calcium powder. One the remaining feeding each week alternate between a vitamin powder with a prEformed source of vitamin A and no D3 and a phos free calcium powder.
 
Hi again. @kinyonga already went over correct supplementation. I’ll go thru the rest of your husbandry. :)

Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care? I have a female, veiled chameleon who can’t be anymore than 7-8 months old. I rescued her from a family that had gotten her from PetCo and couldn’t take care of her properly.
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon? We don’t hold her very offer because she shows signs of distress and anxiety when handled. Besides the normal stress of being held, there’s risk of hurting her, so just be careful.
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders? I feed her meal worms, super worms, and crickets dusted in reptisun calcium and D3 powder. I feed her around 8am and she gets fed again around 4:30pm. She should be fed just once in the morning. Mealworms aren’t suggested as a staple for chameleons. Much better feeder choices are roaches and silkworms, both of which you will probably have to order online. Attaching feeder and gutload graphics below for you. You will need to feed your bugs well and keep them as healthy as can be. Healthy bugs=more nutrition. I have no idea how many feeders she should be getting daily due to her poor health. A healthy female veiled of her age would be getting 3-4 feeders every other day or 3 times a week. Your girl needs nutrition though, so let’s see if @kinyonga can advise on this. I have a water bottle that drips onto the leaves in the corner of her cage.
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule? Reptisun calcium and vitamin D3 supplement. I dust all of her food with it when she gets fed.
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking? I have a water bottle that drips onto the leaves in the corner of her cage. I just recently started giving her misting showers when I turn the shower on and let it hit the wall and mist onto leaves held above her for about 15 minutes. Showers aren’t a good idea as what we perceive as barely warm, can be scalding hot to a chameleon. There’s also the stress of it. Other than that, I use a spray bottle and spray her several times every 5 minutes off and on for an hour. It would be better to give a good 2 minute long misting early in the morning before lights come on and then again right before lights go off at night. Mid day you can either add another misting or use a dripper for about 20-30 minutes. I do see her drinking when I do that.
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites? When I got her, her urates were yellow-orange and now they’re white. She was tested for parasites today.
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you. I don’t have much on her history. I do know that weren’t feeding her worms or bugs, they would give her pieces of strawberries and spinach. Idiots! She had never been seen by a veterinarian or a reptile specialist.

Cage Info:

  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions? She is kept in a screen cage, 16”L X 16”W X 30”H. Normally this would be too small, but considering her condition, I’m thinking this is just right for her.
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule? I use reptisun light fixtures and 5.0 UVB bulbs. Her lights come on around 7:30am and go off around 8:30pm. Correct uvb has already been discussed. You’ll want basking spot about 8“ below the uvb light. Your schedule is close to right. Change to a 12 hour lights on/off schedule instead. Give her that extra hour of sleep. :)
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps? Her enclosure is usually around 80-85F 80f is good for basking temp. I wouldn’t want to go any higher than that. and I just recently moved her basking spot a couple inches higher because she was getting too cold. Unless the temp is dropping below 60f at night, I wouldn’t worry about getting too cold. The lowest overnight temp is 70-72F. I measure the temperature with temp gauges
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity? I keep the humidity at a 70% by misting the cage and keeping the leaves wet. I also have a small bowl of water in there. I use a digital and dial hydrometer. Much too wet! Ideal humidity is between 30-50% during the day. You want her enclosure to dry out between misting. No reason to have a water bowl. At night you can simulate the natural hydration chams get thru fog, by having your humidity as high as 100%.
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind? I am not using live plants. Attaching safe plant list. Fake plants are not good for veileds, as they do eat their plants, especially the girls. Switch out for a tall center plant like a schefflera and add some pothos or philodendron. You can hang the fake plants on the outside of her enclosure to provide her a bit more privacy. You will probably need a special light for the plants. Something like this would be great. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BRKG7X1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor? Her cage is in my room. It is near an air vent but I have a plastic cover redirecting the air away from her cage. The top of her cage is about 5.5ft above the floor. Ok. The higher they are, the safer they feel.
  • Location - Where are you geographically located? Missouri, USA
Female chameleons will lay (infertile) eggs a few times a year. I have no idea if your girl will be able to do this at all ever. I would strongly suggest reaching out to the keeper of Sweet Pea on Facebook for advice as she is likely your best resource for caring for a girl in such a state.
Bless you for rescuing this sweet little girl! 💗


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I feed her around 6-9 insects a day depending on how much she willingly eats. I take the worm or crickets out if she hasn’t eaten then within 30 minutes. Sometimes she will go a day without eating anything.

The misting shower was recommended by the vet to keep her super hydrated and that’s how I got her rehydrated when I first got her.

I’m having trouble finding a 5.0 linear bulb. I’m only seeing a 10.0 bulb. Would you have a suggestion on where to get one?

I keep the temp and humidity pretty stable. And what kind of regulations should I make to her diet?

Also, I’m looking into live plants now :)
She's doing better than my guy if she's eating on her own. I've had yo put my ozzy where he crabs on ground
I have to clean his cage daily.
 
No, do not put a 10.0 bulb on her. Then you swing the other direction with overexposure. Plus it has to be done correctly with raising it. You want a 5.0 linear T5HO bulb and a T5 fixture for it. Then you want 8-9 inches down to her hammock Since she can not grip you need to make sure the cage is set up right so that she can get out from under the lights if she wants to.


You have had a few month now under the wrong UVB bulb using the compact bulb. This is what causes MBD, not having the right UVI level of UVB. If your male has the same lighting you need to change it as well. Here is the link to a 24 inch fixture that has the 5.0 bulb. https://www.amazon.com/Reptisun-T5-Ho-Terrarium-Hood/dp/B00CX5HXI2/ref=sr_1_5?crid=5Y5A56QF03EI&keywords=reptisun+t5+ho+terrarium+hood+24+inch&qid=1637071671&qsid=131-3690128-8212316&sprefix=reptisun+T5,aps,287&sr=8-5&sres=B00CX5HXI2,B00B39QG1Y,B08HCL4J8D,B00B39QGIW,B00LQKAKEO,B00M1UW4V0,B07PNK42W8,B00M9ONY1W,B08NMV6MPC,B08TPFRFNW,B091YFGSBP,B01B209YQC,B00AQU8HRM,B07DCSMM7N,B092XJKDP1,B08P2D3GKK,B00LQKATUE,B003UV8T90,B06XYWQJDK,B004CT2OTA
I’m a little confused by your statement , you stated that the UVB compact caused MBD how is that possible? Though it doesn’t put out as wide Field it still has the same UVB rating ? Am I missing something here? Thanks for your time
 
I’m a little confused by your statement , you stated that the UVB compact caused MBD how is that possible? Though it doesn’t put out as wide Field it still has the same UVB rating ? Am I missing something here? Thanks for your time
Because from what I have experienced and know from having to correct the same problem it doesn't put out enough of the uvb to expand out to the area the chameleons are in and therefore they do not receive the right amount of uvb light
 
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