Laxative
- Thread starter WyteAnjal
- Start date
If she's gravid and you miss her time to lay, then she will die eggbound if you don't have her spayed. If she's just fat...constant overfeeding can lead to constipation, egglaying issues, prolapses and even MBD. If she's constipated, try some pear babyfood. It would be a good idea to take her to the vet if she continues to have a problem.
jojackson
New Member
Kin, did you see the pics on pg2? Are they the mustard patches you were telling me about?
Sexually mature right ?, but not necessarily gravid?
This thread might be a valuable learning opportunity for me.
WyteAnjal, I have heard of it done but in that particular case it was as an emergency procedure for an eggbound animal, to save its life.
I'd not be keen to want surgery as a preventative measure though, as with any invasive procedure, there will be an element of risk associated, one being the risk of infection post op. Im sure such drastic measures would be stressful, for both of you.
Simpler preventive measures are a better option to my mind, these include careful monitoring of diet/food intake to control too rapid growth, which leads to larger batches of eggs when they do get gravid. Egg production, or rather the associated depletion of the females calcium reserves and nutritional state required to produce eggs can lead to serious health issues which in turn may shorten her life.
Clearly your lizard means alot to you, A vet examination can confirm or rule out eggs, and either way will correctly diagnose any problem it has, and treat/recommend treatment.
While there are Incredibly experience people here, who can make an educated guess, given enough details, it will remain an educated guess, none the less, since we can't xray or physically examine your pet.
She is a lovely animal and I am hoping things go well for her. Best wishes
p.s. As advised, provideing a good size tub of soil* for her, 'just in case' is a very good peice of advice, I urge you to do so.
* Sand is probably a greater risk of blockage, if not immediately, then in the longer term, than fine soil, wet sand particles can stick to walls/lining of your lizards intestinal tract and build up over time, even if you see sand in your lizards poo, dont assume she is safely passing all of it.
Sexually mature right ?, but not necessarily gravid?
This thread might be a valuable learning opportunity for me.
WyteAnjal, I have heard of it done but in that particular case it was as an emergency procedure for an eggbound animal, to save its life.
I'd not be keen to want surgery as a preventative measure though, as with any invasive procedure, there will be an element of risk associated, one being the risk of infection post op. Im sure such drastic measures would be stressful, for both of you.
Simpler preventive measures are a better option to my mind, these include careful monitoring of diet/food intake to control too rapid growth, which leads to larger batches of eggs when they do get gravid. Egg production, or rather the associated depletion of the females calcium reserves and nutritional state required to produce eggs can lead to serious health issues which in turn may shorten her life.
Clearly your lizard means alot to you, A vet examination can confirm or rule out eggs, and either way will correctly diagnose any problem it has, and treat/recommend treatment.
While there are Incredibly experience people here, who can make an educated guess, given enough details, it will remain an educated guess, none the less, since we can't xray or physically examine your pet.
She is a lovely animal and I am hoping things go well for her. Best wishes
p.s. As advised, provideing a good size tub of soil* for her, 'just in case' is a very good peice of advice, I urge you to do so.
* Sand is probably a greater risk of blockage, if not immediately, then in the longer term, than fine soil, wet sand particles can stick to walls/lining of your lizards intestinal tract and build up over time, even if you see sand in your lizards poo, dont assume she is safely passing all of it.
Last edited:
ChameleonsInMyHouse
New Member
when it comes to egg laying, Kinyonga is one of the biggest helps here on the forum. the pictures you submitted really don't tell me much. The colors she is displaying is not always a sign of being gravid, the flashy colors also mean receptive at times. Female veileds will not always show gravid colors either, especially with first time egg layers. first time layers are also tricky to determine when they will lay the eggs since you cannot track the start date of gestation.
I would suggest:
-offering her a wider variety of feeders (stimulate appetite and appealing to eat)
-continue offering as much drinking water (flush her system out)
- make sure your gutload is very well off and your calcium supplementation is high and well in balanced (complications like edema can happen as well undeveloped eggs due to calcium defficiency can lead to egg bound, MBD can also be a start point here if proper nutrients arent provided.
-laying bin (washed play sand or 50/50 sand and substrate mix *Washed play sand is what i recommend)
- vet visit for an x-ray
i wouldn't be too concerned about the not pooping just yet, as chameleons get older they tend not to poop as much, but will still urinate close to regularly, fecal may also become more wet before laying.
if there is anymore that comes to mind, i will deffinately come back and post it, for now i hope this was help. check out my blog posted in my signature, as well as check out this blog by Olimpia https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/olimpia/398-visual-caresheet-caring-female-chameleons.html
I would suggest:
-offering her a wider variety of feeders (stimulate appetite and appealing to eat)
-continue offering as much drinking water (flush her system out)
- make sure your gutload is very well off and your calcium supplementation is high and well in balanced (complications like edema can happen as well undeveloped eggs due to calcium defficiency can lead to egg bound, MBD can also be a start point here if proper nutrients arent provided.
-laying bin (washed play sand or 50/50 sand and substrate mix *Washed play sand is what i recommend)
- vet visit for an x-ray
i wouldn't be too concerned about the not pooping just yet, as chameleons get older they tend not to poop as much, but will still urinate close to regularly, fecal may also become more wet before laying.
if there is anymore that comes to mind, i will deffinately come back and post it, for now i hope this was help. check out my blog posted in my signature, as well as check out this blog by Olimpia https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/olimpia/398-visual-caresheet-caring-female-chameleons.html
Did you try feeding her pear babyfood?
If she's gravid (and I keep saying this) and she is/was not given a place to lay the eggs at the time she needs/needed to lay them she will likely die eggbound.
Without taking her to a vet you may not be able to figure out if its constipation or that she's full of eggs. I'm worried that by the time you take action to find out what's going on she will already be crashing and it will be too late to save her.
Also...although spaying can be done, its still surgery and still has its risks...which IMHO are higher than for a dog or a cat by a long shot.
Does she ever take on the typical dark background colors of gravid/non-receptive females? Have you tried showing her her own reflection in a mirror to see what happens?
If she's gravid (and I keep saying this) and she is/was not given a place to lay the eggs at the time she needs/needed to lay them she will likely die eggbound.
Without taking her to a vet you may not be able to figure out if its constipation or that she's full of eggs. I'm worried that by the time you take action to find out what's going on she will already be crashing and it will be too late to save her.
Also...although spaying can be done, its still surgery and still has its risks...which IMHO are higher than for a dog or a cat by a long shot.
Does she ever take on the typical dark background colors of gravid/non-receptive females? Have you tried showing her her own reflection in a mirror to see what happens?
ChameleonsInMyHouse
New Member
agreed but please try and avoid
please try and avoid spay surgery as much as you can. it has high risks and my girlfriend and i are a testimony of loosing a female to a surgery. it's not fun, and if the chameleon is weak to begin with, there is no chance.
please try and avoid spay surgery as much as you can. it has high risks and my girlfriend and i are a testimony of loosing a female to a surgery. it's not fun, and if the chameleon is weak to begin with, there is no chance.
WyteAnjal
New Member
Okay, so she was constipated lol. I called a vet and he told me to try to lower the temperature over all in the house a bit for a couple days. Unfortunately my boyfriend loves the heat and he has it up all the time. So I guess it did the trick, she pooped lots in the last couple days and her belly has gone down a lot!
I also got some play sand and filled a large planting pot with it and wet it down to give it some structure. She has looked at the sand but not aproached it yet. I led a vine down to the pot so she can get in and out easily.
With the sand is there an easy way to clean it or should I just be replacing it every now and then?
I also got some play sand and filled a large planting pot with it and wet it down to give it some structure. She has looked at the sand but not aproached it yet. I led a vine down to the pot so she can get in and out easily.
With the sand is there an easy way to clean it or should I just be replacing it every now and then?
WyteAnjal
New Member
when it comes to egg laying, Kinyonga is one of the biggest helps here on the forum. the pictures you submitted really don't tell me much. The colors she is displaying is not always a sign of being gravid, the flashy colors also mean receptive at times. Female veileds will not always show gravid colors either, especially with first time egg layers. first time layers are also tricky to determine when they will lay the eggs since you cannot track the start date of gestation.
I would suggest:
-offering her a wider variety of feeders (stimulate appetite and appealing to eat)
-continue offering as much drinking water (flush her system out)
- make sure your gutload is very well off and your calcium supplementation is high and well in balanced (complications like edema can happen as well undeveloped eggs due to calcium defficiency can lead to egg bound, MBD can also be a start point here if proper nutrients arent provided.
-laying bin (washed play sand or 50/50 sand and substrate mix *Washed play sand is what i recommend)
My responses are beside the happy faces
ChameleonsInMyHouse
New Member
My responses are beside the happy faces
You need to gutload with a wider variety of fruits, veggies and legumesI don't know if I've posted this before in one of your threads...but I'm posting it (again) now...
Exposure to proper UVB, appropriate temperatures, supplements, a supply of well-fed/gutloaded insects, water and an appropriate cage set-up are all important for the well-being of your chameleon.
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.
Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.
Since many of the feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).
If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).
Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite.)
Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)
Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.
Here are some good sites for you to read...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
Exposure to proper UVB, appropriate temperatures, supplements, a supply of well-fed/gutloaded insects, water and an appropriate cage set-up are all important for the well-being of your chameleon.
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.
Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.
Since many of the feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).
If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).
Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite.)
Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)
Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.
Here are some good sites for you to read...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
