Keeping supplements on buggos.

Twells92

Established Member
So I have a dilemma, in which I’m sure many have encountered. It is easier for me to put many feeders in at one time, and let them pick at them for a couple days when I am out of town working. I am curious, how do people keep supplements on the bugs for extended periods of time. I’ve tried adjusting misters etc but it always seems like it’s off in 2 days. I am just trying to take preventative measures if possible, before something happens. Or quite sure how fast MBD onset is, but I’ve read it’s more common in veileds vs pardalis.
 
So I have a dilemma, in which I’m sure many have encountered. It is easier for me to put many feeders in at one time, and let them pick at them for a couple days when I am out of town working. I am curious, how do people keep supplements on the bugs for extended periods of time. I’ve tried adjusting misters etc but it always seems like it’s off in 2 days. I am just trying to take preventative measures if possible, before something happens. Or quite sure how fast MBD onset is, but I’ve read it’s more common in veileds vs pardalis.
I think the prevalence of mbd in veileds and pardalis is, at least, in part due to the fact that they amount to 75% of the chameleons kept. I don’t know whether the extreme growth rate of veileds makes them more vulnerable to mbd, but the fact that most captive chameleons are veileds and panthers partly explains why we see more mbd in veileds and panthers.
Anyways, I wouldn’t worry to much about supplements wearing off while you’re away on business. In fact, unless they’re younger than six months, they can easily wait a couple days to eat. Then they’ll be hungry, and you can just put a bunch in a cup and they’ll grab them right away.
 
It will do no harm not feeding at all for the couple days. Id be more concerned about the free range feeders taking bites out of your sleeping chameleons then your chameleons eating unsepplemented feeders. MBD can not occur in such a short period of time. You do not need to worry about MBD at all.
 
No escapees from the shooting gallery. Roaches and worms. I’ll free range a couple crickets once in a while when I’m home for entertainment. I’m not worried about them eating every single day, was just worried about the few feeders that do get eaten while away from my ambanja who’s only about 7 months. I understand that not every feeder needs dusted.
 
I lied, I have had one adult male breeder dubia get out once when I first received it. But it got smite’d mid air.
 
To help prevent the bugs from biting the chameleons leave a jar lid of food for them in the cage...keeps them fed and gutloaded if you do it right.

If you're concerned about the supplement powders falling off the insects because they are in th,e cage too long...maybe you can dust just a LITTLE bit heavier so the first few bugs they eat have a little more on and it won't be a bad thing that the dust falls off?

If your chameleons are all adults or close to it then they can/should only be fed every second day anyway.
 
If you're concerned about the supplement powders falling off the insects because they are in th,e cage too long...maybe you can dust just a LITTLE bit heavier so the first few bugs they eat have a little more on and it won't be a bad thing that the dust falls off?
This is closer to what I was talking about. I try to coat in on there as heavy as possible just in case.
 

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I've attached cricket food to my cages for any loose crickets.
It lessens the likelihood that they'll want to bite a Chameleon. And likens the chance that the Chameleon will eat the cricket when they go for the snack!
 

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No escapees from the shooting gallery. Roaches and worms. I’ll free range a couple crickets once in a while when I’m home for entertainment. I’m not worried about them eating every single day, was just worried about the few feeders that do get eaten while away from my ambanja who’s only about 7 months. I understand that not every feeder needs dusted.
Most of my crickets get out of my shooting galleries.
Maybe I should've bought the large size?
 
I'm using homemade 1/2 gallon milk jug feeders.
I swirl the feeders in a little supplement powder and dump them inside.
The Chameleons tongue not only sticks to the cricket, but to any powder on it or near it.
I've also seen more than once a Chameleon climb into the feeder to eat the BlackBerry that I placed in there as cricket food.
 

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Most of my crickets get out of my shooting galleries.
Maybe I should've bought the large size?
Some crickets will escape when they jump. I’ll let them free range in the cage for a little snacky snack and to let the little girl watch them hunt. Roaches/worms etc go in the gallery
 
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