Just wanted to say Hello!


New Member
Hi everyone!
I am expecting my 2 new baby veileds to arrive tomorrow after much anticipation.
After a bad experience trying to make my purchase from RaysReptilia.com, I have purchased my new babies from ReptileCity.com
They have guaranteed live arrival and life for 60 days after arrival. I think this is wonderful!
I just wanted to say hello and ask if anyone has any advice for me about anything I may have forgotten. Their new home is heat lighted and humidified. It has a plant and bend-a-vine all around. I plan to add a couple more plants and many more vines...as the pet store has been out of them for a while. I have an Exo-Terra Fogger right now, but I am dissapointed with it and plan to find something that will be more suited to what I need it to do. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Hello again and I look forward to chatting with you. Tara
60 Days?

I was looking on their website and couldnt find the 60 day live arrival promise, Is that for real?
I think it is

I really think that it is. I also spoke with someone on the phone ( I think it was the owner - they have a 24 hour number now) and he was sorry to hear about my bad experience with the other .com and I'm sure I mentioned the guarantee at some point. Let me find the right page and I will put a link in here....ok,it is on the WARRANTY/RETURNS page


Here is what it says...please let me know if I am misunderstanding it. Tara

If you receive your order DOA, You Must Report The Problem At Time Of Arrival. We stand behind our product for 60 days from date of purchase. If the animal perishes within our guarantee, we will provide a replacement.

All live shipments are taken to the shipper location. This is reduces the amount of stress on the animal(s). And the animals are only in the shipping containers for a few hours before they arrive at your location.

No live arrival guarantee for shipments that are delayed or mishandled by the carrier.
Live arrival guarantee on reptiles and amphibians. Amphibians are only covered upon arrival, they are not guaranteed under our 60 day warranty.
We only ship one replacement per customer.
We use heat packs to help keep the animals warm. We guarantee that our products are of the best quality available. All items are packed according to the item and the length of their shipment as quoted by the carrier.

We will respond within 24 hours, to emails sent to us at [email protected] If you would prefer to contact us by phone, please feel free to call us at 1-888-877-5575
HERPLUV: I had to look also, but I did find a 60 day guarantee on ReptileCiy's "Warranty-Returns" page. That said, what I did not find was that the reptiles (chams specifically since that's what I was looking at) are CB.
I hope I don't violate the TOS terms of this site, but personally I never would purchase a live animal from RaysPeptilla or ReptileCity.
All the best to you, Tara...a cheap WalMart cool-air humidifier might be the way to go for humidity, along with the manual spray bottle. They're going to need lots of water/humidity, so prepare! :
Also, if your pair are siblings (as I suspect they are), please do not plan on breeding them because just as we were taught in high school, in every other culture inbreeding ain't cool...not for the social/PC garbage, but for the genetics! :)
I apprecitate your opinion!

Thanks so much for the advice.
First...what is CB? Does that mean Captive Bred?
I didn't want to write to much in my first post so I didn't mention a lot...but here is some more of the process I went through.
During my phone call I specifically asked if they were captive bred and was told "yes".
I asked if I could get 1 male and 1 female and it was important that they be unrelated. I was told that they had many to chose from it would be no problem and they would definately be unrelated. I am sure I asked these questions more than one time.
Do you still think they will send me a related pair?
For this type of purchase I would prefer to be able to go to a store, but it's not really an option. There is one store close that I know has a veiled. It was $80 as a baby and is a juvenile now and they still have him asking $130. Poor think. He is in the HIGHEST traffic area in the store, right next to the checkout counter. Has only a waterfall to drink from and no plants..just a single bendavine. I think the tank is only a 15 or 20 gallon. I have to say he didn't seem very nervous when I held him..just wanted to crawl up my shirt. They said he likes to get in your hair.
So..I spent weeks looking for a place to purchase one. You've got me worried now.

On the humidity note...that is my biggest concern as I am finding it hard to keep it up. All the fogger seems to do is make a pile of water on the floor and is not wetting the leaves very much. I moved at right against the plant tonight for their first few hours... and then plan on going to the store to get something better tomorrow. So do you think a humidifier would be best? Is that dangerous to have in the enclosure with them?
I'd also like an opinion in a couple of products I am looking at...these are for humidity...but after purchasing this crappy fogger I am nervous about purchasing anything.

Petco - TropicAire Humidifier and Air Exchanger
Here is the page..the information at the bottom explaines it well.


Petsmart - Habba Mist from Zoo Med


Which one do you think? Or both?

Oh and one more thing...About lighting
Right now I have 2 heatlights..One for day and a night one-that gives a red glow...Does this red glow bother them and they will not get rest. SHould I go with a black night heat bulb?
The bulbs I have are ZooMed Incandescent Reptile Bulbs..that say they are full spectrum, but then it only says UVA. But I also have one of the long lights ( like the flourescent ones you see in schools lights) It is a ExoTerra Repti Glow 2.0 40 watt. I have missplaced the box, but I think this one provides the UVB? So that combined they have the UVA and UVB? Is the only things they need out of the lighting/heat lighting?

So many sites say so many different things. Even the veiled caresheets vary. Do you know of an accurate one I can use. I have taken the day and night temperatures on each side and want to compare with exactly what they need and doulbe check and make sure I don't need to add some more heat.

Thanks again, sorry I wrote a book. It's so nice to talk to someone who cares and isn't just trying to sell. My heart went out to the one in the pet store, but I klnow if I buy they will just get another poor baby. Thanks, Tara
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For humidity you can utilize a cool mist humidifier as outlined in this article, http://www.chameleonnews.com/humidifier.html but this is not a replacement for frequent heavy mistings.

Both the products you listed aren't worth the money spent on them, so I wouldn't bother.

No need to utilize a heat bulb at night as most chameleons relish a night time temp drop of 10-15 degrees.

The reptiglow bulbs have been proven to provide a lower amount and quality of UVB than the ZooMed Reptisun bulbs. You would be much better of switching to a reptisun 5.0 or 10.0 with a fast growing species such as calyptratus.

I was about to head out to the pet store and I thought I should read this first and I am glad that I did.

Ok about the lighting...I have a 75 gallon tank with a screen top enclosure. I have a 48" Reptile Combo light. It holds one long (Exoterra reptiglow 40 watt bulb) and then on each side it has 2 screw ins for round bulbs ( total 4). Right now I just have the 100 watt day bulb on one side and the 40 watt night bulb on the other side. I need to add some more heat and humidity gauges in a few places, but these are the readings I have so far. Last night on the day side with no light the temp was 75 degrees - humidity 65%. One the night bulb side with the light on the temp read around 80 degrees.
Just a minute ago on the day side with the day light on it was 80 degrees and 60% humidity. It was still almost 80 degrees on the night side.

The care sheet I have says that they like temp between 75 - 80 degrees and humidity between 60- 80%. You mentioned a 10 -15 degree drop in temperature.
My babies are Veiled Chameleons. I know that different types like different ranges. Can you give me some accurate temp and humidity ranges? Like what temp & humidity range for day and what temp and humidity range for night? My goal is to provide different areas with different degrees of heat and humidity so depening on how they are feeling...all the while keeping those areas within the proper ranges. Is this what I should do?
I want them to be comfortable...but I really worry about them being to hot or getting to cold...both I assume can result in death or illness correct? Does the humidity level need to be in a certain range at all times without any drops or dry spells?

The article on the humidifiers was very helpful. One question I didn't see or probably just missed...Does a cool mist humidifier leave the same puddles of water the sme way that a fogger does? I know that when I run one in the house it doesn't, but that of course is a much larger area instead of a glass tandk with screen top. The enclosure by the way is 48" long - 18" high and 18" wide.
I have manually turned my fogger on 2 times today for a short peroid of time when the humidity went down to 50% and already I have a pile of water on the floor.
I plan to sop this up...but I am wondering is this enough? I have reptile carpet on the bottom of the enclosure, so by sopping up the puddles...the carpet and glass will still remain very damp for a bit. Do I need to dry this out more or do you think that with the 80 degree temp in the tank it will soon dry itself?

My babies were very eager to get out of their little cups and I think they are looking good. I have to get to the store before 7, but when I get back, I will take some pictures so that everyone can help me decide how their health is. This is my first experience with Chameleons..LOL..like you guys couldn't tell!
They must have been in an entirely screened encosure...I'm guessing...because that is the first place they wanted to go. They spent most of their first hours walking upside down on the top screen...one wanted to go around in circles and one wanted to spend time near the heat light. I was very upset to find that the UniHeat 40 hour they had been packed with was not giving any heat when I opened the box.
The plant I have in the enclosure is sturdy enough on the lower parts, but they want to walk up the very top leaves to get to the screen sometimes and I did watch on slip and fall of the leaf at one point. I had just misted and the leaf was pretty wet? That is why I am rushing to the pet store. Unfortunately I called and both stores near me are out of the bend a vine. And it is 50% cheaper to buy it online. I'd rather buy iut cheap and maybe have it overnighted. I was thinking about going outside for some branches out of the back yard as a temporary fix. Any advice on this? Do the branches from outside need to be specially cleaned? Is any moss growing on a branch dangereous to the chameleons. Is the bark dangerous?
I know that might seem silly, but since my babies are not native to West Virginia...I want to be sure I don't put anything in with them that could cause them harm.
I also plan on adding more live plants...but are artifical plants safe to use as well? I know that the artifical ones would probably have more sturdy branches.
Ok, that will conclude my book writing for this sitting!:p Thanks again to everyone who is taking the time to help me make their new home perfect for them.

You are going to have trouble with that aquarium on many levels. With that much water and heat you are going to be growing more bacteria than anything else. You need to move them into a screen cage asap.

The humidity requirements you read for calyptratus are not constant humidity levels. Humidity, like temperature, should fluctuate throughout the day. Spiking during your misting times and falling off while the cage is drying out. A constant 80% humidity in an aquarium will be a sauna.

Once you have moved them into a screen cage your ambient temps should be in the mid 80's with a basking site in the mid 90's. Night time temps should drop at least 10-15 degrees at night.

You really need to get a screen cage asap.
enclosure conditions

yes, 80% humidity would be a sauna. Maybe I was a little confusing.
The temperature is what is holding pretty steady at 80%. The side without the light on at the time will drop to 75%.

The humidity when there is no misting going on is usually around 50% humidity.. maybe a bit lower.
When I mist it raises to about 60% for a while.
When I turn the fogger on it goes to around 65%-70% humidity

So if I am understanding right...my basking temperature on one side should be around 95%
My surrounding areas temperatures should be around 85%
And then at night the temperatures (all temps?) should drop to around 70-75 degrees...but not below 70?

As for humidity I know that is is changing between 50 and 65% humidity sometimes reaching 70%. Can you tell me a high and low for the humidity.

I have the lights on timers so that they have a proper day and night cycle. It looks as though if I am understanding the heat temperatures right that I need to add another bulb to the basking area so that it can reach the 95 degrees.
I do plan on adding the humidifier and it to will be on a timer so that the humidity will vary throughout the day. I assume that the humidity should drop at night though right? So I should just put the humidifiers timer to come on and off a few times in the day and then set it to stay off at night?

I also have a tiny fan...kind of like a computer fan...enough to circulate air..but not feel anything blowing on you.

I would love a screen cage, but unfortunately it is not an option as least for a few months. The girls at the pet store had told me thana an aquarium would do fine..and I believed them since the cham they had was in one....I hope to be able to change their home soon. But for now all I can do is try to make it as perfect as possible and try to come up with ways to make it not be a breeding ground for bacteria.
I assume that a regular cleaning is the first step. Can you recommend a good cage cleaner that is not harmful to the chams? Something that will kill bacteria? Can you believe they told me they use windex at the pet store?
you said that with all the water and heat it would be a breeding ground for bacteria...can you be more specific? What areas are dangerous? Is it dangerous everywhere or is it just in areas that water could end up sitting?
I assume that it means that if water gets on the reptile carpet and it doesn't thouroughly dry..that would be the number one spot. I plan to remove the carpet.
I had some fake plastic ivy that I attached to either side of the enclosure to hide the glass a bit from them and they really seem to like it. One was asleep in their and one was asleep in the plant. Out of fear one would fall again before I wake in the morning I went ahead and added the branches. This did not disturb the one in the fake ivy, but I did need to move the one in the plant. He seemed fine when I held him, but he did not want to walk over to my daughters hand. He instead did the thing where he clings like he is going to sleep. So back in he went and was soon asleep in the ivy.
Anyways, my thought was that when I remove the green reptile carpet...I can lay a few of these fake ivy clusters on the bottom, which would provide them even more to move around on, assuming they wouldn't want to walk on the glass. The are also easy to clean throughly.
When I asked about areas that breed bacteria....can this happen in the plant? The leaves dry easily, but of course the mulch in the base will stay damp..is this a problem?
Again, thank you so much for your help and advice. I will definately work on a screen enclosure. It's funny...but I had also found several online sites that recommended that veileds be kept in a small aquarium while they are young. That is really why I have so many questions...so much conflicting info and then you believe one only to find out it is wrong. Can you recommend a site which has an accurate detailed care sheet for veileds?
I also noticed whle looking at the humidifier setup that is was aquariums it was hooked to. Was it a different reptile in those enclosures?
Again, I appreciate your concern for the well being of my new babies.
I noticed an illlness someone mentioned...initials starting with M..MB something. Can you tell me what this is.
I managed to take some pictures, they are so tiny and my digital does not zoom well, so they are as good as I can get for now...and I want to give them space. I am going to post the best ones now and hope that everyone and anyone can let me know if they look healthy. Is it normal for thier bones to be visible through their skin a little?
LOL...I swear, questions just keep popping into my head!~ Tara
another experience

LunaC said:
I hope I don't violate the TOS terms of this site, but personally I never would purchase a live animal from RaysPeptilla or ReptileCity.

same here...
I know of someone who recently (last month) ordered a cham from one of the 2 mentioned (trying to stay safe here so I can make a point) and he not only was sent the wrong species, but it died in a week or so. He had commented about his experience (not bashing, just stating) on a forum about it. When he called for refund or another cham they forced him to have his posts removed from the forum (the moderator had not removed them b/c there was nothing offensive or breaking TOS) or they would not deal with him. I truly hope you do not have a similar experience and that your chams live a long healthy life. I do not believe they sell CB so you will want to get a fecal done as soon as you can.

I also know they sell very young chameleons; any reputable breeder should never sell a baby less than 3 months old.

Brad, if I said anything that forces you to pull this post I understand. I was trying to stay as "nice" about it as possible.

Tara, one last thing...it is a lot cheaper to buy your bendi-vines, UVB lights and pretty much all supplies online - for instance the reptisun 5.0 UVB bulb is up to $50:)eek: ) in a chain pet store, you can get any length for around $18 at several places online. Remember, you need to change them every 6 months so buying in bulk makes sense ;)

lele said:
Tara, one last thing...it is a lot cheaper to buy your bendi-vines, UVB lights and pretty much all supplies online - for instance the reptisun 5.0 UVB bulb is up to $50:)eek: ) in a chain pet store, you can get any length for around $18 at several places online. Remember, you need to change them every 6 months so buying in bulk makes sense ;)


I just bought some reptisun 5.0's on sale at Big Apple Herp for 13.99 each! Good deal!


Bad feeling now

Thanks for the heads up LunaC! I hope I never have to deal with the warranty stuff. So far they seem to be very active. They tend to stop what they are doing and look at me when I peed in, so I haven't seen them drinking yet. My hubby arrived home with the crickets later than expected so they were already going to sleep. I put just a few crickets in for them to find in the morning.
As much as I like to hear about everything that could happen it always seem to give me a feeling of dread.
Also thanks helga..I have saved that page for when I purchase a new 48" light. I just ordered several different size BendABranch's. I got 2 of each size so they sould be able to get everywhere in the encloseure soon.
When it gets here I am going to have to remove everything and do a makeover. I am going ot get rid of the carpet on the bottom that will stay damp and add some of the ivy clusters to the bottom. They would cushion a fall and they seem to like them. Althought I worry the crickets will always want to hide in them.
I emailed the .com I purchased from to get a definate age them. I haven't heard back yet. I will measure them soon...so I measure from snout to the tip of the tail and determine age by size?
Ok, I am going to lay down. TOday has been so exhausting! Thanks! Tara
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