Creaturelover123
New Member
My baby Jackson always spend his time on the roof under the UVB light. Is that normal? Is he going to get burned? Help!!!!!!! 
He is about 1 1/2
He is about 1 1/2
Jackson baby basking ALOT!!!!
- Thread starter Creaturelover123
- Start date
jdog1027
Avid Member
My baby Jackson always spend his time on the roof under the UVB light. Is that normal? Is he going to get burned? Help!!!!!!!
He is about 1 1/2
How old is your UVB tube? If it is more than 8-12 months old, it could be possible that it is not produce enough UV, resulting in your chameleon trying to get as close to the source as possible maybe,...? You say he is 1 1/2- Are you refering to age or size? 1 1/2 yrears is hardly a baby.
campbellashley93
New Member
If he eats alot he could also bask constantly as well. Im sure If It would hurt him being under the light he wouldn't stay there long.
Elizadolots
New Member
1 & 1/2 inches? Years, months, weeks?
That makes a huge difference. However, basking is pretty normal.
That makes a huge difference. However, basking is pretty normal.
Creaturelover123
New Member
He doesn't eat alot. He eats but not over eats.
Sorry for the misunderstanding.
I meant he was 1 and 1/2 months. 
Solid Snake
Avid Member
Does he have a heat lamp as well? Or just uvb? If he does not have a heat lamp he may be trying to receive as much heat from his uvb bulb, which is hardly enough. He will need an 80F basking spot as well as uvb...
Creaturelover123
New Member
We have a basking light. We always to keep the cage at 75F-80F
Creaturelover123
New Member
Elizadolots
New Member
~80 degrees should be the temperature at the basking spot. The over all temperature should drop as you get closer to the bottom (I know that's not always possible). You want them to be able to move from warmth to cooler temps and back as they like.
My feeling is, if they want to be under the UVB lamp, then that's where they need to be. As long as it's impossible to come into direct contact with any bulbs or fixtures, the chances of burns are fairly low.
Solid Snake
Avid Member
Well, my Xanth loves to bask for long periods at times. I second what Elizadots said. As long as there's no physical chance of burning, let them do what they want :/ They know what they are doing...
Creaturelover123
New Member
Thanks for all your help!
xanthoman
Avid Member
xanth cage temps/ lighting plan.
generally speaking, imo the term basking most often refers to uva and to a lesser degree uvb.
imo both uva and uvb should have an absolute min. bulb distance of 4" at the closest possible point, slightly longer for cfl/uvb which i dont recommend for younger xanths anyway. i usually consider 8-12" optimal for both depending on bulb reflector, age of bulb, light transmission factor of the screen, etc (so, slightly closer for reptariums as they usually have a denser screen).
generally speaking otherwise healthy xanths are going to spend most of their time in the top 6-8" of cage anyway, depending on cage structure and other issues, so i prefer to keep the lights at least 4" off the top of the cage in case they decide ceiling crawl for extended periods (not uncommon but should be discouraged by optimizing cage structure for those distances if possible). like ep's have said, they know whats best for them, but they may not be able to achieve/accomplish that, if their cage, lighting plan/temp schemes are not properly set up for them, basically, you are trying to give them a choice of whatever they desire, (just like they would have in the wild),give them what they need, they will do the rest.
smaller lineal uvb (<3') does not usually generate enough heat for temp burns, however uvb can create (eye and other) issues, when too close to the bulb, regardless of temps, even more of an issue where younger xanths or cfl/uvb are concerned, especially with narrow beam bulbs or reflectors. wide beam bulbs become narrow beam sources when used in narrow beam reflectors.
uva bulbs dont carry the risk of uv burn like uvb ulbs can under certain circumstances.
the main issue with uva is temp, like ep's have said, 80* (84* for adults), is a good safe uva basking temp providing it is properly monitored. imo the only way to properly monitor uva temps, is by a digital therm with a remote sender located in the sweet spot of the beam, these are available for less than $10, but imo, you are better off just spending $20 and getting zilla digital thermometer/hygrometer, so you have reasonably accurate measurements of both, plus they also record both hi/lows of both temps and humidity, which is ultra helpful in xanth husbandry, so, imo it is definitely worth it to spend an extra 10-12$ to get the right unit for the job. you can always get a couple of $7 therms for other parts of the cage if you like, imo you should be monitoring at least 3 separate temp zones, plus recording your highs and lows so that you are sure of whats going on if you are asleep or not there.
just for the record, there are pitfalls using ir temp guns as your main temp monitoring device, but thats a whole nother post.
the term "heat lamp" makes me nervous, because that often implies infra red heat lamp which imo has no place in xanth husbandry, also a whole nother post.
when it comes to uva for newer keepers, i always recommend a standard incandescent uva house hold bulb of the minimum wattage required to achieve the temps desired, this is usually between 15watt fridge bulb to a 40 watt household bulb depending on several factors. once again, dist, reflector, screen value, type/age of bulb etc.
remember that is the max basking temp, but keep in mind you also want a significant temp gradient throughout the cage. if your basking zone temps (regardless of whether uva or uvb,) are 80*, then you should try to provide temps in the cage that are as low as 70-72*, you dont just want a uniform temp throughout the cage.
also keep in mind that you want a nightime temp drop of about 8-12* if possible, so that would make your lighting plan something like this;
uva basking zone 80* in the sweet spot
uvb basking zones of slightly less temps about 76-78*
lower, dimmer, parts of the cage, about 70-74*or as close as practical,
keeping in mind that night heat for otherwise healthy xanths is not recomended, as you are TRYING to get your nightime temps down to about at least 65*, imo, nightime heat (regardless of the method delivered) is not usually recommended, except in cases of neonates otherwise not doing well, uri's, or other health issues, may call for limited night heating.
as your cham matures, it will be able to both tolerate and benefit from both slightly higher and lower temps, so, except for nite temp drop, the rest of the temps can gradually be increased about another 4* as your cham approaches maturity, to a max uva basking temp of 84*. healthy adult xanths can easily tolerate nite temps even down into the 50*s, provided they have proper temp gradients available during the day.
gradient of ambient cage temps and nightime temp drops are imo, both necessary components of successful xanth husbandry. in most cases this should be achieved without the use of direct fans or widely opened windows, and no nightime misting, if you are having probs getting nightime temps down, limited, occasional, light misting, about an hr before lights on is ok, if you can do it without waking your cham or if it is usually up before lights on,just to clarify, this means misting the surrounding foliage only, not direct misting of the cham itself.
just for the record. i usually try to sync my light schedule with outside lighting hrs. on at sunrise off at sunset, this helps keep their natural circadian rhythm in balance (built in bioclock of sorts).
dont forget xanths are arboreal, meaning they like trees, tall bushes and other high places, so your xanth will be more comfortable and less stressed if you have the top of his cage/basking zone at or above eye level. this usually translates into a 4' cage on a 2' stand, so you can include a bucket under the cage for drainage.
hope that helped clear some stuff up for you! jmo
generally speaking, imo the term basking most often refers to uva and to a lesser degree uvb.
imo both uva and uvb should have an absolute min. bulb distance of 4" at the closest possible point, slightly longer for cfl/uvb which i dont recommend for younger xanths anyway. i usually consider 8-12" optimal for both depending on bulb reflector, age of bulb, light transmission factor of the screen, etc (so, slightly closer for reptariums as they usually have a denser screen).
generally speaking otherwise healthy xanths are going to spend most of their time in the top 6-8" of cage anyway, depending on cage structure and other issues, so i prefer to keep the lights at least 4" off the top of the cage in case they decide ceiling crawl for extended periods (not uncommon but should be discouraged by optimizing cage structure for those distances if possible). like ep's have said, they know whats best for them, but they may not be able to achieve/accomplish that, if their cage, lighting plan/temp schemes are not properly set up for them, basically, you are trying to give them a choice of whatever they desire, (just like they would have in the wild),give them what they need, they will do the rest.
smaller lineal uvb (<3') does not usually generate enough heat for temp burns, however uvb can create (eye and other) issues, when too close to the bulb, regardless of temps, even more of an issue where younger xanths or cfl/uvb are concerned, especially with narrow beam bulbs or reflectors. wide beam bulbs become narrow beam sources when used in narrow beam reflectors.
uva bulbs dont carry the risk of uv burn like uvb ulbs can under certain circumstances.
the main issue with uva is temp, like ep's have said, 80* (84* for adults), is a good safe uva basking temp providing it is properly monitored. imo the only way to properly monitor uva temps, is by a digital therm with a remote sender located in the sweet spot of the beam, these are available for less than $10, but imo, you are better off just spending $20 and getting zilla digital thermometer/hygrometer, so you have reasonably accurate measurements of both, plus they also record both hi/lows of both temps and humidity, which is ultra helpful in xanth husbandry, so, imo it is definitely worth it to spend an extra 10-12$ to get the right unit for the job. you can always get a couple of $7 therms for other parts of the cage if you like, imo you should be monitoring at least 3 separate temp zones, plus recording your highs and lows so that you are sure of whats going on if you are asleep or not there.
just for the record, there are pitfalls using ir temp guns as your main temp monitoring device, but thats a whole nother post.
the term "heat lamp" makes me nervous, because that often implies infra red heat lamp which imo has no place in xanth husbandry, also a whole nother post.
when it comes to uva for newer keepers, i always recommend a standard incandescent uva house hold bulb of the minimum wattage required to achieve the temps desired, this is usually between 15watt fridge bulb to a 40 watt household bulb depending on several factors. once again, dist, reflector, screen value, type/age of bulb etc.
remember that is the max basking temp, but keep in mind you also want a significant temp gradient throughout the cage. if your basking zone temps (regardless of whether uva or uvb,) are 80*, then you should try to provide temps in the cage that are as low as 70-72*, you dont just want a uniform temp throughout the cage.
also keep in mind that you want a nightime temp drop of about 8-12* if possible, so that would make your lighting plan something like this;
uva basking zone 80* in the sweet spot
uvb basking zones of slightly less temps about 76-78*
lower, dimmer, parts of the cage, about 70-74*or as close as practical,
keeping in mind that night heat for otherwise healthy xanths is not recomended, as you are TRYING to get your nightime temps down to about at least 65*, imo, nightime heat (regardless of the method delivered) is not usually recommended, except in cases of neonates otherwise not doing well, uri's, or other health issues, may call for limited night heating.
as your cham matures, it will be able to both tolerate and benefit from both slightly higher and lower temps, so, except for nite temp drop, the rest of the temps can gradually be increased about another 4* as your cham approaches maturity, to a max uva basking temp of 84*. healthy adult xanths can easily tolerate nite temps even down into the 50*s, provided they have proper temp gradients available during the day.
gradient of ambient cage temps and nightime temp drops are imo, both necessary components of successful xanth husbandry. in most cases this should be achieved without the use of direct fans or widely opened windows, and no nightime misting, if you are having probs getting nightime temps down, limited, occasional, light misting, about an hr before lights on is ok, if you can do it without waking your cham or if it is usually up before lights on,just to clarify, this means misting the surrounding foliage only, not direct misting of the cham itself.
just for the record. i usually try to sync my light schedule with outside lighting hrs. on at sunrise off at sunset, this helps keep their natural circadian rhythm in balance (built in bioclock of sorts).
dont forget xanths are arboreal, meaning they like trees, tall bushes and other high places, so your xanth will be more comfortable and less stressed if you have the top of his cage/basking zone at or above eye level. this usually translates into a 4' cage on a 2' stand, so you can include a bucket under the cage for drainage.
hope that helped clear some stuff up for you! jmo
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