Is this setup good for an Ambilobe Panther Cham?

Lyckster

New Member
Hello,

I recently acquired an Ambilobe Panther Chameleon, on the 6th of February. He's approximately 3-6 months according to the people I got him from. I owned a veiled chameleon in the past, but since Panther Chameleons are more sensitive, I wanted to make sure his setup was ideal.

I'm using the Exo-Terra Digital Thermo/Hydro Combo meter:
product_1284372.jpg


Readings are as follows:
Temp High: 24.7 C
Temp Low: 21.3 C
Humidity: 70-85%

I have a heating pad setup on the side, particularly right next to the branch he's perched on in the picture below. I placed him on the branch when I set him in the terrarium, but since then, I've never seen him go there on his own. He usually hangs out in the top front corner of the terrarium. (Is this behaviour alright? I assume he's just scared in the new setup, and it's normal for the first few days. Also to note, I purchased him from a local exotic reptile store, not online, so he at least didn't have to go through the shipping process.)

So far, he's eaten 15 crickets in three days.

On the first evening, we let about 4 crickets in the terrarium, which were gone in the morning.

However next day a bit too many got out (8) :(, and were roaming around his terrarium. for about 24 hours. Since then, I've been hand-feeding him 1 at a time to make sure there aren't any crickets stressing him out in the terrarium. (he seems fine to eat off my hands) - which I hope is okay? (he ate 3 this morning. I didn't feed him any today cause we had to make some adjustments to his setup) and didn't want to stress him out further.


So far, he's gone down from his perch twice daily. Once in the morning to eat and drink and once later on in the day. (or at least I think so. I know he was drinking this morning for a good bit)

I also purchased an Exo-Terra RS400 Monsoon, to make sure he gets regular misting and drinking water. (I was told several times that a dripper wasn't needed when I had an automated misting system)

However I've had some issues adjusting the system. Firstly I live in Florida, Which means the humidity by default is incredibly high and keeping it in an acceptable range is a challenge. But when watering often or for longer periods (tried up to 30 seconds) the bottom of the terrarium gets flooded. (which is of course not acceptable)

If anyone on this thread has the similar system I'd love to hear what your settings for it is, (cycle and duration)

I currently have it set to mist for 16 seconds every 2 hours.

Currently every but the warm spot should be getting water.

What worries me a bit is that when he went drinking this morning, he was still drinking after the misting turned off, so I manually turned it on for an extra 30 seconds or so. (he was standing in the mist drinking the droplets running down his head) After I turned it off again, he continued to drink from the leaves.

I also wanted to make sure the following supplements were optimal for feeding. Currently, I'm using the following supplements, and I wanted to make sure the Orange Cube was alright to feed the crickets.
doucut.jpg


The pet store gave us the Fluker's calcium with D3 and Phospherus free.

However I read on this site I believe, that you were only supposed to give them Calcium with D3 once every 3 weeks. So I bought the "Repti Calcium" without D3 (also Phosperus free), which I'll be shaking his crickets with every feeding in the future.

They also gave us the Reapshy Vitamin A supplement, which I also read should only be used on rare occasions.

However, for the first 2 days I followed the instructions from the pet shop and both Fluker's and Repashy was added to his diet.

Lastly, I also acquired Fluker's Orange Cube Cricket diet. That I was planning on feeding the crickets with, so they'll live longer and have better nutrients for the Chameleon.

The lighting in the terrarium is using an Exo-Terra top light, (max 15 watts) for a uvb light and another light that I unfortunately forgot what was that I was recommended. (I believe it has a dark blue bulb?)

At the moment he does not has a spotlight. However I was thinking I would get him one later this month, to make it warmer and hopefully help keeping the humidity below the 80% - if you agree this is a good idea, how many watts do you recommend? And do they ever crawl on the top mesh? (do I need a stand for the light so it doesn't touch it)

And finally, the terrarium:
25hnytj.jpg



There shouldn't be anything sharp or dangerous in there. Currently all the plants are fake. Which is a bit of a tragedy since I know many chameleons seem to be able to tell the difference. But I hope it'll be alright for him until he is fully matured.

He's still a juvenile so he's sitting in a smaller terrarium atm. But we're planning to move him to a bigger one when his about a year old.

I've handled him once since we got him for about 10 seconds. (I moved him out of his terrarium by carrying the perch he was sitting on). Put him on a bigger fake tree we have in the house, while we fixed up his terrarium. (after about 30 minutes he starting climbing the fake tree to the top), where I then had to carry him (with an open hand back in his improved terrarium).

Other than that I havn't touched him and don't plan on doing so for at least a week or 2 so he can settle in. When I did handle him, he didn't hiss or try to bite me, he did make himself big and puff up his chin when I put him back in the terrarium but not when I picked him up. So I don't think it was too bad for him.
 
For my panthers I have T5H0 UVB bulbs, and a 75 watt incandescent bulb for heat. I use Repashy Super Load and fresh veggies as a gutload for crickets, but also feed superworms, butterworms, silkworms, hornworms and dubias.
 
For my panthers I have T5H0 UVB bulbs, and a 75 watt incandescent bulb for heat. I use Repashy Super Load and fresh veggies as a gutload for crickets, but also feed superworms, butterworms, silkworms, hornworms and dubias.

Thanks for the reply.

Unfortunately the only exotic pet store anywhere near me only sells crickets and mealworms. (Including superworms though, but those are probably still too big for him)

how do you get a hold of all the other insects, do you order them online or do you have a bigger variety at your local stores?
 
Thanks for the reply.

Unfortunately the only exotic pet store anywhere near me only sells crickets and mealworms. (Including superworms though, but those are probably still too big for him)

how do you get a hold of all the other insects, do you order them online or do you have a bigger variety at your local stores?

You can order a lot online.
 
Couple tips

You don't need a heat pad for chameleons. Especially living in Florida. That is probably why he staying away from it.

And you should probably be feeding him anywhere from 10-20 crickets a day as he is in his growth phase.
 
I currently don't have a spotlight in there. That's why I'm using a heating pad to help a bit.

But I'm hoping I can find one today, 75 watts I think was recommended by another user in the first reply :)

I've been trying to feed him 10 - 12 crickets. But the first 3 days he only took 3 each day.

However today it's currently 1 pm and he's taken 6 so far :D

3 the first time.
1 the next time
and 2 last time.

But I can't get him to eat very many during a single feeding (at least not yet) and I don't want any crickets running around in there stressing him out.

He just looks away and climbs back up his perch when he's not interested in the food anymore.

I'm planning on ordering some various insects that's recommended, to see if he would like some different food better.

He also went exploring his terrarium for the first time, and I saw him drink again today. So I think he's settling in pretty well now.

My biggest worry right now is the humidity. I'm having a really hard time keeping it below 80%, it went as far up as 87% this morning after misting.

Since the humidity over here is pretty much at least 70% in the air.
 
I don't think having a bunch of crickets in there with him will stress him. As long as your not housing him with like a hundred. But throwing 20 crickets in his enclosure in the morning will allow him to hunt and eat his fill without stressing him out.
 
I don't think having a bunch of crickets in there with him will stress him. As long as your not housing him with like a hundred. But throwing 20 crickets in his enclosure in the morning will allow him to hunt and eat his fill without stressing him out.

I've read a few places that it's bad to have crickets running around in there. (if he doesn't eat them)

But I guess hand-feeding him as much as he wants, then letting the rest of his daily diet in his cage would be alright?

I ordered a variety of insects for him, so he can get a more varied diet as well.

And I got him to eat a total of 10 crickets today, so he's in his recommended food amount now :D

I got him a good fixture with a "stand" so it doesn't touch the grid and burn him. Sadly they are out of the Exo-Terra basking spot lights for 75 watts he needs. Until Wednesday.

Also got him on a timer, so his light is on for exactly 12 hours and not my manual approximately.

But can anyone let me know whether it's okay for him to have a humidity over 80%, most "care sheets" say 50 - 70% or 60-80%. It gets to be up to 87% after misting. And only drops down in the high 70's if I open his cage for a while.
 
Yeah, a lot of info will say not to leave them in there due to the possibility of the crickets chewing on the cham while it sleeps. I have not had this issue or seen the crickets bother him while he sleeps. But i only leave a few in over night at most.
Hand feeding is good sometimes but it is very time consuming and after a few months you might not be so inclined to hand feed for 20-30 minutes. Letting them hunt inside the cage exercises their brain and gives them something to do other than sit there while your gone.
The humidity can be remedied by buying a mesh screen cage instead of the glass terrarium. The mesh will give it the airflow it needs to maintain a good humidity range.
 
Your problems with humidity are likely due to the type of enclosure you're using. There is a level of ventilation in the Exo Terra type enclosures (I have a crested gecko in one) but not nearly what you would get from an all screen enclosure. A screen cage is probably your best bet for getting temps and humidity correct where you live. I kept Jacksons chams when i lived in Hawaii and the screen cage I had worked great with the addition of a low wattage basking light, a dripper and misting a few times a day. I'm sure the climate in florida is similar.

Good Luck! This is a great place for information
 
Back
Top Bottom