Is my baby veiled Chameleon ok?

[JoruD]

Hi everyone I’m new to chameleon care and yesterday I bought a baby chameleon but now that I see him I noticed some things. First I think that he might be skinny although he eats well, he stays in one place or moves close to the place that he was very slowly and sometimes he shakes “violently” when standing still and when walking and sometimes he closes his eyes. I’ve seen that all of those things are worrying but since I’m new to this and he’s a baby (about 3/4 months old) I don’t know if it’s normal.
Here are some photos of him.

 

[MissSkittles]

Hi and welcome. From what I’m seeing, I do have some concerns for your little cutie. I’d love to help you get everything just perfect for your little one, but I’ll need some more info and pics. If you could answer the following (copy & paste) and provide pics of your entire enclosure, including lights, we can get started.

health.


Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
• Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
• Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
• Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
• Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
• Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
• History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
• Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
• Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
• Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
• Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
• Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
• Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:

1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
2. Photos can be very helpful.

 

[JoruD]

Hi and welcome. From what I’m seeing, I do have some concerns for your little cutie. I’d love to help you get everything just perfect for your little one, but I’ll need some more info and pics. If you could answer the following (copy & paste) and provide pics of your entire enclosure, including lights, we can get started.

health.


Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
• Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
• Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
• Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
• Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
• Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
• History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
• Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
• Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
• Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
• Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
• Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
• Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:

1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
2. Photos can be very helpful.

Hi, thanks for responding me that quickly.
Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon - Veiled chameleon, Mald, 3-4 months. One day
• Handling - I just took him out to take that photo
• Feeding - crickets, about 10 I fed him midday, with carrots.
• Supplements - Exoterra Calcium with and without D3 and vitamins but I still haven’t used it
• Watering - I spray for some pumps three times per day, morning midday and night. I still haven’t seen him drink
• Fecal Description - Still haven’t pooped
• History - Looked good and with good colors in the terrarium that the breeder got them in.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Screen and 46cm by 46cm by 90cm
• Lighting - Exoterra UVB 25w bulb and Exoterra Basking light bulb, I’ve got the lights on 12h and off another 12h
• Temperature - 28cm at highest and 23 at night. I have a thermometer and a hygrometer.
• Humidity - 50% and I have plants to keep the moisture.
• Plants - Yes, a Coleus and a Pothos
• Placement - It’s close to a Window on top of a chest of drawers
• Location - In Spain, Europe

Current Problem - I think that he might be skinny, he stays in one place or moves close to the place that he was very slowly and sometimes he shakes “violently” when standing still and when walking, sometimes he closes his eyes with light on. (the photo of the terrarium has plastic chameleons to decorate it before I got him, I took them out before putting him in)

 

[Tkrd69]

Your in good hands with MissSkittles

 

[Spookies]

You might want to take that fake chameleon out

 

[JoruD]

You might want to take that fake chameleon out

Yes, I took them out before putting the little one in

 

[MissSkittles]

Give me a little bit of time to go thru all of your info.

 

[MissSkittles]

I’ll be putting my feedback in bold.
Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon - Veiled chameleon, Mald, 3-4 months. One day Are you positive you have a male? Only males will have protruding nubs on their back feet, called tarsal spurs.
• Handling - I just took him out to take that photo It is good to build trust with him. Here’s a great blog on doing that. https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/building-trust-with-your-chameleon.2396/
• Feeding - crickets, about 10 I fed him midday, with carrots. For his age, he should be getting a little bit more than that. I’d say around at least 15. It’s good to add more variety of feeders as well as feeding the feeders better. Instead of specifically gutloading, I prefer just keeping the feeder bugs well fed with a variety of fresh produce. Healthy bugs are much more nutritious for your animal. Attaching some graphics below. Also, it’s preferred to feed in the early part of the day so that he’ll have more time to bask and digest.
• Supplements - Exoterra Calcium with and without D3 and vitamins but I still haven’t used it Supplements are essential. You’ll want to use the calcium without D3 to lightly dust every feeding except one per week. Then for that one weekly feeding, you’ll alternate between using calcium with D3 and a multivitamin so that each is given once every other week and not together.
• Watering - I spray for some pumps three times per day, morning midday and night. I still haven’t seen him drink It’s not uncommon to never see your chameleon drink. You want to mist/spray the enclosure for at least 2 minutes, 2-3 times a day - early morning, mid day is optional and right before lights go out. To evaluate your chameleon’s hydration you’ll look at urates - the white part of the poop. Of course, white is great but it isn’t bad to have one end have some yellow or even a small area of light orange. All dark and orange means dehydration usually. If the chameleon hasn’t pooped for a few days or so, there usually will be more yellow or orange.
• Fecal Description - Still haven’t pooped It’s always a good idea to have a veterinary wellness visit and a fecal check for parasites with all new animals.
• History - Looked good and with good colors in the terrarium that the breeder got them in

I have a feeling I’ll be saying a lot in the next section, so am breaking this into two parts.

 

[MzLaurie11]

Hello and welcome. Miss skittles is very knowledabke and helpful so she will adress the specifics. I will give you some general info. You should refrain from handling for the first two weeks tto let he make the emclosure his home. He will double in size every two- three weeks until about 7 months then it will slow. He should be fed 10-12 small crickets dusted every morning. Also babies need you to put the crickets in a cup that is not clear with a stick coming out of it. The cup should be wedged in up in the cage near braches or vines that he can sit on to hunt them.and put pin holes in the bottom Of the cup in case water gets in. Then have one stck in the cup for the crickets to climb out on and in case your baby dives in can crawl out. At lights out dump any crickets still in the cup nto a plant as they are too small and will usually die ober night. Since he eats do much while young you might want to buy a 40 gallon tote to store the crivkets. Crickets die off if they dont have enough room and cricket kerpers are too small for a weeks worth. Small crickets need a substrate i use vermiculite it also kerps the smell down. Also get a ceramic bowl or a small.mealworm bowl fir treats. I glue all bowls to heavy flat rocks or they will go flying. Dont have any lights on at night and as long as temp diesnt drop below 50 no heat is needed. Any colored lights, blue or red can cause blindness in chams. Also veileds eat lettuce. So put some in a bowl a few times a week to see if he likes it. Try different kinds untik you see what he likes. I prefer collard greens which is very high in vitamin A.

 

[MissSkittles]

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Screen and 46cm by 46cm by 90cm This size is fine for right now while your chameleon is still small, but he’ll be growing big before you know it and need much bigger. The standard minimum is 60x60x120 cm. Of course if you can give even more space than that, it would be even better.
• Lighting - Exoterra UVB 25w bulb and Exoterra Basking light bulb, I’ve got the lights on 12h and off another 12h Your 12 hour schedule is perfect. Your uvb is not. You’ll need a linear T5 ho fixture with either Arcadia 6% or ReptiSun 5.0 uvb. Then your basking branch will need to be about 20-22 cm below your light. This will give you the ideal uv index of around 3.0. Unfortunately, other types of uvb bulbs are not reliable or able to provide adequate levels at a decent distance. Since your chameleon is little and they love to walk upside down on the screen top, it’s best to elevate your lights off the screen to prevent burns.
• Temperature - 28cm at highest and 23 at night. 26c would be a bit better, but if you raise your light it will bring the temp down perfectly. I have a thermometer and a hygrometer.
• Humidity - 50% and I have plants to keep the moisture. Ideal range is between 30-50% during the day.
• Plants - Yes, a Coleus and a Pothos I’m not sure if coleus is safe for our plant nibbling veileds. I would suggest replacing it with a Tradescantia zebrina which is safe and will give those same colors. I’m also going to suggest many more safe live plants and remove the artificial. What many do is have a larger center plant such as schefflera or ficus benjamina and then have other plants such as the pothos, tradescantia and others around it. You’ll probably need to get very creative in hanging plants and branches…garden trellis works well for many. I’d also add many more branches and vines. I use branches that I’ve scavenged from outside and cleaned. That way I get a more natural look and my chameleons get a wide variety of diameters to exercise their feet muscles. Safe plants graphic attached.
• Placement - It’s close to a Window on top of a chest of drawers Good. Height = safety for chameleons.
• Location - In Spain, Europe

Current Problem - I think that he might be skinny, I think so too. Increasing the amount your feeding will help with that. he stays in one place or moves close to the place that he was very slowly and sometimes he shakes “violently” when standing still Are you able to get a video of this? It doesn’t sound like anything normal. and when walking, Chameleons do what’s called a leaf walk- rocking back and forth a bit with each hesitant step, trying to look like a leaf in the wind. Babies especially do this. sometimes he closes his eyes with light on. Not normal and not at all a good sign. This usually indicates a sick chameleon or one that has become so absolutely stressed that it just shuts down and waits to be eaten. Babies have zero resources to fall back upon should something not be correct in their care and can quickly decline. You’ve only had him for one day though, so if he is not well, it is from however he was kept before you got him. Yes, you do need to make his improvements asap as his little body can’t wait any period of time for correct uvb or supplements. (the photo of the terrarium has plastic chameleons to decorate it before I got him, I took them out before putting him in) Chameleons are solitary and it stresses them to see other chameleons, even fake ones. They also don’t care for their reflections.
I hope I’ve been of some help to you. A great place to learn the most current and accurate guidelines is https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/ Asking questions here…as many as you have is the best way to get everything for your little one perfect.

 

[JoruD]

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Screen and 46cm by 46cm by 90cm This size is fine for right now while your chameleon is still small, but he’ll be growing big before you know it and need much bigger. The standard minimum is 60x60x120 cm. Of course if you can give even more space than that, it would be even better.
• Lighting - Exoterra UVB 25w bulb and Exoterra Basking light bulb, I’ve got the lights on 12h and off another 12h Your 12 hour schedule is perfect. Your uvb is not. You’ll need a linear T5 ho fixture with either Arcadia 6% or ReptiSun 5.0 uvb. Then your basking branch will need to be about 20-22 cm below your light. This will give you the ideal uv index of around 3.0. Unfortunately, other types of uvb bulbs are not reliable or able to provide adequate levels at a decent distance. Since your chameleon is little and they love to walk upside down on the screen top, it’s best to elevate your lights off the screen to prevent burns.
• Temperature - 28cm at highest and 23 at night. 26c would be a bit better, but if you raise your light it will bring the temp down perfectly. I have a thermometer and a hygrometer.
• Humidity - 50% and I have plants to keep the moisture. Ideal range is between 30-50% during the day.
• Plants - Yes, a Coleus and a Pothos I’m not sure if coleus is safe for our plant nibbling veileds. I would suggest replacing it with a Tradescantia zebrina which is safe and will give those same colors. I’m also going to suggest many more safe live plants and remove the artificial. What many do is have a larger center plant such as schefflera or ficus benjamina and then have other plants such as the pothos, tradescantia and others around it. You’ll probably need to get very creative in hanging plants and branches…garden trellis works well for many. I’d also add many more branches and vines. I use branches that I’ve scavenged from outside and cleaned. That way I get a more natural look and my chameleons get a wide variety of diameters to exercise their feet muscles. Safe plants graphic attached.
• Placement - It’s close to a Window on top of a chest of drawers Good. Height = safety for chameleons.
• Location - In Spain, Europe

Current Problem - I think that he might be skinny, I think so too. Increasing the amount your feeding will help with that. he stays in one place or moves close to the place that he was very slowly and sometimes he shakes “violently” when standing still Are you able to get a video of this? It doesn’t sound like anything normal. and when walking, Chameleons do what’s called a leaf walk- rocking back and forth a bit with each hesitant step, trying to look like a leaf in the wind. Babies especially do this. sometimes he closes his eyes with light on. Not normal and not at all a good sign. This usually indicates a sick chameleon or one that has become so absolutely stressed that it just shuts down and waits to be eaten. Babies have zero resources to fall back upon should something not be correct in their care and can quickly decline. You’ve only had him for one day though, so if he is not well, it is from however he was kept before you got him. Yes, you do need to make his improvements asap as his little body can’t wait any period of time for correct uvb or supplements. (the photo of the terrarium has plastic chameleons to decorate it before I got him, I took them out before putting him in) Chameleons are solitary and it stresses them to see other chameleons, even fake ones. They also don’t care for their reflections.
I hope I’ve been of some help to you. A great place to learn the most current and accurate guidelines is https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/ Asking questions here…as many as you have is the best way to get everything for your little one perfect.
View attachment 328920

Thanks for the feedback, I will change the UVB and start with the calcium asap and try to keep him from getting MBD or sick and I will upgrade the terrarium. Currently I don’t have any video of the shaking but I will try to make one tomorrow as he’s now sleeping.

 

[MissSkittles]

Thanks for the feedback, I will change the UVB and start with the calcium asap and try to keep him from getting MBD or sick and I will upgrade the terrarium. Currently I don’t have any video of the shaking but I will try to make one tomorrow as he’s now sleeping.

To post a video here, you’ll need to first upload it to another platform such as instagram or YouTube and then add the link here.

 

[MzLaurie11]

ALso you have Nice plants but you are going to have to figure out how to get them up higher. He needs some shade and hiding places highup. Chams are tree dwellers so the higher up they are the safer they feel. Also keeping the bottom clear is much easier to clean

 

[Tkrd69]

Diy dragon ledges

 

[MzLaurie11]

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Screen and 46cm by 46cm by 90cm This size is fine for right now while your chameleon is still small, but he’ll be growing big before you know it and need much bigger. The standard minimum is 60x60x120 cm. Of course if you can give even more space than that, it would be even better.
• Lighting - Exoterra UVB 25w bulb and Exoterra Basking light bulb, I’ve got the lights on 12h and off another 12h Your 12 hour schedule is perfect. Your uvb is not. You’ll need a linear T5 ho fixture with either Arcadia 6% or ReptiSun 5.0 uvb. Then your basking branch will need to be about 20-22 cm below your light. This will give you the ideal uv index of around 3.0. Unfortunately, other types of uvb bulbs are not reliable or able to provide adequate levels at a decent distance. Since your chameleon is little and they love to walk upside down on the screen top, it’s best to elevate your lights off the screen to prevent burns.
• Temperature - 28cm at highest and 23 at night. 26c would be a bit better, but if you raise your light it will bring the temp down perfectly. I have a thermometer and a hygrometer.
• Humidity - 50% and I have plants to keep the moisture. Ideal range is between 30-50% during the day.
• Plants - Yes, a Coleus and a Pothos I’m not sure if coleus is safe for our plant nibbling veileds. I would suggest replacing it with a Tradescantia zebrina which is safe and will give those same colors. I’m also going to suggest many more safe live plants and remove the artificial. What many do is have a larger center plant such as schefflera or ficus benjamina and then have other plants such as the pothos, tradescantia and others around it. You’ll probably need to get very creative in hanging plants and branches…garden trellis works well for many. I’d also add many more branches and vines. I use branches that I’ve scavenged from outside and cleaned. That way I get a more natural look and my chameleons get a wide variety of diameters to exercise their feet muscles. Safe plants graphic attached.
• Placement - It’s close to a Window on top of a chest of drawers Good. Height = safety for chameleons.
• Location - In Spain, Europe

Current Problem - I think that he might be skinny, I think so too. Increasing the amount your feeding will help with that. he stays in one place or moves close to the place that he was very slowly and sometimes he shakes “violently” when standing still Are you able to get a video of this? It doesn’t sound like anything normal. and when walking, Chameleons do what’s called a leaf walk- rocking back and forth a bit with each hesitant step, trying to look like a leaf in the wind. Babies especially do this. sometimes he closes his eyes with light on. Not normal and not at all a good sign. This usually indicates a sick chameleon or one that has become so absolutely stressed that it just shuts down and waits to be eaten. Babies have zero resources to fall back upon should something not be correct in their care and can quickly decline. You’ve only had him for one day though, so if he is not well, it is from however he was kept before you got him. Yes, you do need to make his improvements asap as his little body can’t wait any period of time for correct uvb or supplements. (the photo of the terrarium has plastic chameleons to decorate it before I got him, I took them out before putting him in) Chameleons are solitary and it stresses them to see other chameleons, even fake ones. They also don’t care for their reflections.
I hope I’ve been of some help to you. A great place to learn the most current and accurate guidelines is https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/ Asking questions here…as many as you have is the best way to get everything for your little one perfect.
View attachment 328920

Ecellent miss skittles right on the.money

 

[JoruD]

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Screen and 46cm by 46cm by 90cm This size is fine for right now while your chameleon is still small, but he’ll be growing big before you know it and need much bigger. The standard minimum is 60x60x120 cm. Of course if you can give even more space than that, it would be even better.
• Lighting - Exoterra UVB 25w bulb and Exoterra Basking light bulb, I’ve got the lights on 12h and off another 12h Your 12 hour schedule is perfect. Your uvb is not. You’ll need a linear T5 ho fixture with either Arcadia 6% or ReptiSun 5.0 uvb. Then your basking branch will need to be about 20-22 cm below your light. This will give you the ideal uv index of around 3.0. Unfortunately, other types of uvb bulbs are not reliable or able to provide adequate levels at a decent distance. Since your chameleon is little and they love to walk upside down on the screen top, it’s best to elevate your lights off the screen to prevent burns.
• Temperature - 28cm at highest and 23 at night. 26c would be a bit better, but if you raise your light it will bring the temp down perfectly. I have a thermometer and a hygrometer.
• Humidity - 50% and I have plants to keep the moisture. Ideal range is between 30-50% during the day.
• Plants - Yes, a Coleus and a Pothos I’m not sure if coleus is safe for our plant nibbling veileds. I would suggest replacing it with a Tradescantia zebrina which is safe and will give those same colors. I’m also going to suggest many more safe live plants and remove the artificial. What many do is have a larger center plant such as schefflera or ficus benjamina and then have other plants such as the pothos, tradescantia and others around it. You’ll probably need to get very creative in hanging plants and branches…garden trellis works well for many. I’d also add many more branches and vines. I use branches that I’ve scavenged from outside and cleaned. That way I get a more natural look and my chameleons get a wide variety of diameters to exercise their feet muscles. Safe plants graphic attached.
• Placement - It’s close to a Window on top of a chest of drawers Good. Height = safety for chameleons.
• Location - In Spain, Europe

Current Problem - I think that he might be skinny, I think so too. Increasing the amount your feeding will help with that. he stays in one place or moves close to the place that he was very slowly and sometimes he shakes “violently” when standing still Are you able to get a video of this? It doesn’t sound like anything normal. and when walking, Chameleons do what’s called a leaf walk- rocking back and forth a bit with each hesitant step, trying to look like a leaf in the wind. Babies especially do this. sometimes he closes his eyes with light on. Not normal and not at all a good sign. This usually indicates a sick chameleon or one that has become so absolutely stressed that it just shuts down and waits to be eaten. Babies have zero resources to fall back upon should something not be correct in their care and can quickly decline. You’ve only had him for one day though, so if he is not well, it is from however he was kept before you got him. Yes, you do need to make his improvements asap as his little body can’t wait any period of time for correct uvb or supplements. (the photo of the terrarium has plastic chameleons to decorate it before I got him, I took them out before putting him in) Chameleons are solitary and it stresses them to see other chameleons, even fake ones. They also don’t care for their reflections.
I hope I’ve been of some help to you. A great place to learn the most current and accurate guidelines is https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/ Asking questions here…as many as you have is the best way to get everything for your little one perfect.
View attachment 328920

Hi again! I have some updates on the little one, first I finally have a poop sample and it seems “normal” it’s not dry and Urate is white, also I’ve removed the fake plants and replaced them with pothos all around the terrarium and now he seems more active. I also have bad news, the Proper UVB lamp can’t be found in my country as we have some type of law against those bulbs, I’ve also increased the number of crickets with calcium to 15 and used the cup trick but he has only eaten about 8 and the rest are crawling free inside the terrarium.

Regarding the shaking thing I didn’t see him do it since the original post till a few minutes ago that I could manage to film in video but he didn’t shake as “violently” as the first time I saw him do it.

Here’s the link:

 

[bruce the cham]

Hi again! I have some updates on the little one, first I finally have a poop sample and it seems “normal” it’s not dry and Urate is white, also I’ve removed the fake plants and replaced them with pothos all around the terrarium and now he seems more active. I also have bad news, the Proper UVB lamp can’t be found in my country as we have some type of law against those bulbs, I’ve also increased the number of crickets with calcium to 15 and used the cup trick but he has only eaten about 8 and the rest are crawling free inside the terrarium.

Regarding the shaking thing I didn’t see him do it since the original post till a few minutes ago that I could manage to film in video but he didn’t shake as “violently” as the first time I saw him do it.

Here’s the link:

this is normal behavior it is a disquse they try to act like a leaf blowing in the wind

 

[JoruD]

this is normal behavior it is a disquse they try to act like a leaf blowing in the wind

Thanks!! I thought this could be a bad thing so this is a big relief

 

[JoruD]

N

Hi again! I have some updates on the little one, first I finally have a poop sample and it seems “normal” it’s not dry and Urate is white, also I’ve removed the fake plants and replaced them with pothos all around the terrarium and now he seems more active. I also have bad news, the Proper UVB lamp can’t be found in my country as we have some type of law against those bulbs, I’ve also increased the number of crickets with calcium to 15 and used the cup trick but he has only eaten about 8 and the rest are crawling free inside the terrarium.

Regarding the shaking thing I didn’t see him do it since the original post till a few minutes ago that I could manage to film in video but he didn’t shake as “violently” as the first time I saw him do it.

Here’s the link:

Now that I’m here, is there any tips or tricks to make the crickets stay in the feeding cup? It’s a pain to have them scattered throughout the terrarium and I can’t put the calcium on them or gutload them while they are scattered

 

[bruce the cham]

N

Now that I’m here, is there any tips or tricks to make the crickets stay in the feeding cup? It’s a pain to have them scattered throughout the terrarium and I can’t put the calcium on them or gutload them