Infection help

katiemichelle

New Member
Hello everyone. I'm new to this forum and have a male panther chameleon close to 2 years old. I'll talk about his enclosure and feeding habits to get a better feel for my situation.

I have him in a xl screen enclosure 24x24x48 , I closed off all sides except the top with an opaque thin wrap so I could maintain humidity levels.
I have two 75watt heat bulbs as it's a large cage, a UVb bulb (10.0), and day bulb.
He's fogged multiple times a day and the humidity is 85% and the temperature is about the same. It varies in spots around his enclosure so he can cool off if needed on his lower level and can bask in higher temperatures if he's too cool.
He's fed super worms and/or dubia roaches every other day (that are gut loaded and powdered with and without D3 powder.) I wrote on the containers what I have to give him daily and which powder he gets every other week as I can never remember!
He does have a water bowl that I clean and fill with fresh water everyday. He sticks his face in and drinks, which I heard is not common because most chameleons drink from moisture on leaves from fogging or misting. But mine does both. He likes to drink from the bowl and the leaves of his plants.
I have two live plants in his enclosure which were given to me by his previous owner. I believe they are Pathos? He has sphagnum moss vines, bamboo vines, and fake plants as well.

Anyway, my buddy has some sort of infection. I brought him to the vet 2 weeks ago and they said it was an oral gland infection (But I think its a URI.) and gave me baytril to give to him 2x a day for 21 days. He has the thick bubbly saliva and I've been good with giving him his medication, but I'm wondering if there's anything I can do about his saliva. It's very thick and he chokes a lot which makes me very nervous. I've swabbed a q tip in his mouth and get a lot of it out for him, but it comes back quickly and he aspirates every time he tries to drink water. My next vet appointment is on April 6th and if he doesn't improve the vet said he will need surgery on his glands. He has labored breathing sometimes and puts his head up and coughs and puffs up. is it possible for him to choke and die? Is there anything I can do to help him breathe better and/or help him get the saliva out of his mouth? Any help or tips would be appreciated as I'm still fairly new to owning a chameleon. I adopted him in October 2018.

I forgot to mention that I do handle him. As far as I know he enjoys being handled. He'll walk right onto my arm and crawl all over me as soon as I open his enclosure. He is very active still and I usually only handle him to give him medication or when he comes to the front of his cage and waves his arms around by the latch as if he's trying to open it himself.
 
Last edited:

katiemichelle

New Member
Could be that he's not getting enough ventilation with blocking off all the screen sides but the top. With a high humidity level and no ventilation/air movement. Easy way for a cham to get a URI

Should I uncover one of the sides? I had trouble keeping the humidity up and the temp high enough because my room is very cold. My boyfriend keeps the windows open all winter so I did that to keep him safe from the cold. I do open the door to his enclosure multiple times throughout the day to check on him and I leave it open for several minutes. That must not be helping!
 

Thehippie

Chameleon Enthusiast
Should I uncover one of the sides? I had trouble keeping the humidity up and the temp high enough because my room is very cold. My boyfriend keeps the windows open all winter so I did that to keep him safe from the cold. I do open the door to his enclosure multiple times throughout the day to check on him and I leave it open for several minutes. That must not be helping!
how hot is it in there, how humid, fill out the form so we can narrow down what your chameleon has.
 

katiemichelle

New Member
https://www.chameleonforums.com/threads/how-to-ask-for-help.66/ please fill out this form so we can narrow down how your cham could have gotten this infection. wen he breathes is he wheezing??? that is a tell tale sign of a uri.

  • Your Chameleon - Panther chameleon, 2 yrs old been in my care for 5 months.
  • Handling - twice a day for medications (sometimes handling when he's very active in his enclosure and tries to get out.)
  • Feeding - I feed him super worms and dubia roaches. Sometimes Horn worms when I can get them. I feed him 8-10 medium roaches every other day, or I feed him 8-10 superworms every other day. Sometimes he will only eat a few, sometimes he eats them all. I gut load with the orange cubes for crickets and cricket water. Sometimes feed the dubias potatoes and fresh fruits.
  • Supplements - I use repticalcium with and without D3. I have a horrible memory and can't remember what powder is daily and whats given once every 2 weeks without googling it so I wrote on the containers when I'm supposed to dust his food with the daily powder and with the 2 week powder.
  • Watering - I use fogging mostly for water in take. He gets fogged up to 4 times a day for about an 1-2 hours, however long it takes the fogger to empty itself. I usually keep it on a slow stream so as not to make it too moist. I physically see him drinking out of his water dish that's in his enclosure. Seldom see him licking it from leaves.
  • Fecal Description - His poop is as normal as can be. He does strain when he poops though. He has never been tested for parasites. At least I don't think so. His previous owner didn't mention it.
  • History - He had MBD in the past and lost all his nails from it.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Screen cage
  • Lighting - Reptibreeze, 24x24x48, two 75 watt red heat bulbs, 1 UVB bulb (10.0) Day bulb 60 watt. The day bulb and UVB bulbs are turned off at night, sometimes I'll turn off one heat lamp at night so he can sleep.
  • Temperature - The basking spot is 90 degrees, 80-85 not in the basking spot and about 70 at the bottom of the enclosure. lowest overnight temp is 78. I have 2 hygrometer and temperature thermometers at different ends of the cage.
  • Humidity - Humidity levels are usually 80-85%, I use a hygrometer to measure it. I use a zoo med fogger multiple times a day.
  • Plants - I'm using 2 live plants. one is a pathos, I'm not sure of the second. His previous owner assured me both plants were safe for reptiles.
  • Placement - It is on a dresser, kind of near the ceiling since it is a very tall cage. It's by my door to my room, away from windows.
  • Location - I'm located in the north east of America, New Hampshire.
hopefully this info helps! Sorry I had it in the wrong format, this is my first post!
 

alphakenc

Chameleon Enthusiast
Did the vet prescribed the Baytril ; Forta for the medication with URI?
Increase ur temperature will speed up your chameleon's metabolism allowing her to fight the infection more effectively.
URI usually cause by,cage location next to a Windows,draft ,air condition vent,standing water,if you think u have one of these,please find a way to clear it asap cause it will continue to get the chameleon sick even when they get the treatment.
 

katiemichelle

New Member
Did the vet prescribed the Baytril ; Forta for the medication with URI?
Increase ur temperature will speed up your chameleon's metabolism allowing her to fight the infection more effectively.
URI usually cause by,cage location next to a Windows,draft ,air condition vent,standing water,if you think u have one of these,please find a way to clear it asap cause it will continue to get the chameleon sick even when they get the treatment.

She prescribed Baytril for a "oral gland infection". She doesn't think he has a URI even though he shows the signs of one. But she also didn't run any tests on him whatsoever. Just an exam. I thought that was odd too. She also prescribed him Benebac to give twice a week. I'm going to take off the wrap on the front of his cage so he can get more ventilation as I didn't know that was an issue before I posted in the forum. He's been on the opposite side of my room away from any windows since I brought him home in October of last year!
 

MSPINAZ1

Established Member
panthers only need 50-70% average humidity. a constant 85 is to high. sounds like a RI. humidity is lower during the day (50-60) and spikes at night (60-70). this is one of the trickiest parts of chameleon care. keeping humidity levels and ventialtion at the same time.
 

alphakenc

Chameleon Enthusiast
Benebac usually is a source of live naturally occurring microorganisms comes in the gel or powder form. Its recommended any time experiences stress from changing nutritional environmental conditions
Also relieves intestinal stress with lactic acid producing bacteria.
The main med Baytril is a highly effective, reliable, and proven antibiotic for the treatment of most common bacterial infections.It requires lots hydration so it can do less damage on the kidey.
Maybe is the water bowl since a still water can easily get contaminated.
 

SharpShooter

Avid Member
C
Should I uncover one of the sides? I had trouble keeping the humidity up and the temp high enough because my room is very cold. My boyfriend keeps the windows open all winter so I did that to keep him safe from the cold. I do open the door to his enclosure multiple times throughout the day to check on him and I leave it open for several minutes. That must not be helping!
Change boyfriend!
 

WashingtonCham

Established Member
C
Change boyfriend!
Or change the Chams room a cold breeze everyday from an open window or a/c can actually stress a chameleon to death. But so can no ventilation. I would try computer fans installed into the cage if you want a completely enclosed cage because no ventilation is just as bad as low heat.
 

WashingtonCham

Established Member
  • Your Chameleon - Panther chameleon, 2 yrs old been in my care for 5 months.
  • Handling - twice a day for medications (sometimes handling when he's very active in his enclosure and tries to get out.)
  • Feeding - I feed him super worms and dubia roaches. Sometimes Horn worms when I can get them. I feed him 8-10 medium roaches every other day, or I feed him 8-10 superworms every other day. Sometimes he will only eat a few, sometimes he eats them all. I gut load with the orange cubes for crickets and cricket water. Sometimes feed the dubias potatoes and fresh fruits.
  • Supplements - I use repticalcium with and without D3. I have a horrible memory and can't remember what powder is daily and whats given once every 2 weeks without googling it so I wrote on the containers when I'm supposed to dust his food with the daily powder and with the 2 week powder.
  • Watering - I use fogging mostly for water in take. He gets fogged up to 4 times a day for about an 1-2 hours, however long it takes the fogger to empty itself. I usually keep it on a slow stream so as not to make it too moist. I physically see him drinking out of his water dish that's in his enclosure. Seldom see him licking it from leaves.
  • Fecal Description - His poop is as normal as can be. He does strain when he poops though. He has never been tested for parasites. At least I don't think so. His previous owner didn't mention it.
  • History - He had MBD in the past and lost all his nails from it.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Screen cage
  • Lighting - Reptibreeze, 24x24x48, two 75 watt red heat bulbs, 1 UVB bulb (10.0) Day bulb 60 watt. The day bulb and UVB bulbs are turned off at night, sometimes I'll turn off one heat lamp at night so he can sleep.
  • Temperature - The basking spot is 90 degrees, 80-85 not in the basking spot and about 70 at the bottom of the enclosure. lowest overnight temp is 78. I have 2 hygrometer and temperature thermometers at different ends of the cage.
  • Humidity - Humidity levels are usually 80-85%, I use a hygrometer to measure it. I use a zoo med fogger multiple times a day.
  • Plants - I'm using 2 live plants. one is a pathos, I'm not sure of the second. His previous owner assured me both plants were safe for reptiles.
  • Placement - It is on a dresser, kind of near the ceiling since it is a very tall cage. It's by my door to my room, away from windows.
  • Location - I'm located in the north east of America, New Hampshire.
hopefully this info helps! Sorry I had it in the wrong format, this is my first post!
I would change your watering method get an automatic misting system to use with the fogger and fog At night in low humidity instead of the water bowl. Water bowls are asking for infections. Just make sure your cage completely dries out between mist showers.
 

Mawtyplant

Chameleon Enthusiast
  • Handling - twice a day for medications (sometimes handling when he's very active in his enclosure and tries to get out.)
Im a bit concerned with the 2x of baytril a day? what are the dosage? is your vet is a exotic specialized vet who got experience with chameleons?
  • Feeding - I feed him super worms and dubia roaches. Sometimes Horn worms when I can get them. I feed him 8-10 medium roaches every other day, or I feed him 8-10 superworms every other day. Sometimes he will only eat a few, sometimes he eats them all. I gut load with the orange cubes for crickets and cricket water. Sometimes feed the dubias potatoes and fresh fruits.
Here I suggest you to switch for silkworm and black soldier fly larvae reason simple : bsfl contain a natural antibiotic/antifongic substance and silkworm contained a natural anti-inflammatory substance both can help with the RI and all your other feeder can't (all in with the silkworm.. easy to digest too so help him
  • Supplements - Any other vitamins? multi vitamins? gut loading?
Suggest to dust with bee pollen and to buy a substance called serrapeptase (www.beardeddragon.co if my memory good have some for sale, you can read on this.. this can help for real)

  • Watering - I use fogging mostly for water in take. He gets fogged up to 4 times a day for about an 1-2 hours, however long it takes the fogger to empty itself. I usually keep it on a slow stream so as not to make it too moist. I physically see him drinking out of his water dish that's in his enclosure. Seldom see him licking it from leaves.
Shut your fogger off during the day, high temperarure + high humidity are probably the major cause of you RI dont bother you with high humidity during the day.. if your humidity is up to 40 its good! spray the cage twice a day and you gonna be fine.
  • Humidity - Humidity levels are usually 80-85%, I use a hygrometer to measure it. I use a zoo med fogger multiple times a day

  • Thats now a real problem I mention above if you keep your fogger on your chameleon never gonna heal
do you have some pictures of him?
 
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