my cham hasn't eating in 3 day well yeah he has but only one or two crickets he has pooped and he has being sleeping OK, he has being very active moving on the branches and leaves also down the terrarium my only worry is that he hasn't eaten like he used to only 1 or 2 he is like 6 or 7 months im worried because before all this he ate like 5 or 6 crickets and very fast, same thing with the meal worms he ate like 3 or 4 in the past but now not one plz help im very desperate and worried
im soooooo sad, and scared
- Thread starter andreamr
- Start date
MelissaB
Avid Member
Does he look ok, other than not eating? Is he drinking? Are his poops black/brown with a white part (urate)? If he's otherwise healthy, just not eating, he might be bored with his food. Do you give him anything other than crickets and mealworms? Maybe you could try giving him some different feeders, like silk worms, butter worms or hornworms.
It would help if you fill out the Ask For Help sheet. Then the more experienced members can try to help you figure out what may be wrong. They're really helpful and friendly. Welcome to the forum.
Here's the link to the How to Ask for Help questionnaire:
https://www.chameleonforums.com/how-ask-help-66/
copy and paste the questions, and fill in your info It'll help a lot
It would help if you fill out the Ask For Help sheet. Then the more experienced members can try to help you figure out what may be wrong. They're really helpful and friendly. Welcome to the forum.
Here's the link to the How to Ask for Help questionnaire:
https://www.chameleonforums.com/how-ask-help-66/
copy and paste the questions, and fill in your info It'll help a lot
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kplatvoet
Member
You should fill out the "how to ask for help form" - It will help to figure out what is wrong - Has he shed lately ? He might just be getting ready to shed- or might just want something different to eat- If you fill out the form it will be easier to figure out if there is a problem-
Chameleon Info:
Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.
Cage Info:
Cage Type - glass 24" L X 18" W X 24" H
Lighting - Zilla Day White Light Incandescent Spot Bulbs, 10 to 12 hours
Temperature - Zoo Med Nocturnal Infrared Heat Lamp i have the Reptile Habitat Thermometer Gauge
Humidity - 60 to 80% i use lil mister or the repti fogger.
Plants - artificial plants
Placement - in my room its a very silent room, over a window always closed and the sunlight enters fine
Location - san diego c.a
Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.
Cage Info:
Cage Type - glass 24" L X 18" W X 24" H
Lighting - Zilla Day White Light Incandescent Spot Bulbs, 10 to 12 hours
Temperature - Zoo Med Nocturnal Infrared Heat Lamp i have the Reptile Habitat Thermometer Gauge
Humidity - 60 to 80% i use lil mister or the repti fogger.
Plants - artificial plants
Placement - in my room its a very silent room, over a window always closed and the sunlight enters fine
Location - san diego c.a
MelissaB
Avid Member
Oops, your info on the first half of the questions isn't there. They'll need to know what calcium powder and vitamins you use, fecal description, and stuff like that.
I would get rid of the red night time light, they can see the red light and it disturbs their sleep pattern. Also, unless your house is super cold (colder than 50 degrees) he doesn't need the night time heat.
Also, and this may be a really dumb question, but are you sure he's a boy? Does he have a spur on the back of his feet? I don't have a Veiled, but I just wanted to make sure all your bases are covered. He's a cutie.
I would get rid of the red night time light, they can see the red light and it disturbs their sleep pattern. Also, unless your house is super cold (colder than 50 degrees) he doesn't need the night time heat.
Also, and this may be a really dumb question, but are you sure he's a boy? Does he have a spur on the back of his feet? I don't have a Veiled, but I just wanted to make sure all your bases are covered.
He's a cutie.
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MelissaB
Avid Member
Here's a link to a Veiled Chameleon care sheet, it has a bunch of really good information on it.
https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/caresheets/veiled/
https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/caresheets/veiled/
Chameleon Info:
Your Chameleon - veiled, male, 6 months, in my care for 3 months
Handling - twice a week
Feeding - crickets and meal worms, 7 crickets, 4 meal worms 10:45 am, crickets food and water y buy from petco.
Supplements - reptivite, every 2 days
Watering - i use a water dish , and mist the leaves, he drinks from both of them
Fecal Description -black with yellow (pee) he hasn't been tested for parasites
History - he hasn't shed yet he has been shedding every month except this month :S
Your Chameleon - veiled, male, 6 months, in my care for 3 months
Handling - twice a week
Feeding - crickets and meal worms, 7 crickets, 4 meal worms 10:45 am, crickets food and water y buy from petco.
Supplements - reptivite, every 2 days
Watering - i use a water dish , and mist the leaves, he drinks from both of them
Fecal Description -black with yellow (pee) he hasn't been tested for parasites
History - he hasn't shed yet he has been shedding every month except this month :S
carol5208
Chameleon Enthusiast
Your chameleon is a FEMALE and she very well may need to lay eggs. If she is not eating that could explain why. You need to get a laying bin set up for her. I will give you a link on how to do it but your cage is probably going to be too small for it. You also need a UVB light or she will get very sick
MelissaB
Avid Member
I'm not as experienced as a lot of the folks on here, but I see a couple things that you can change that may help.
His food should be dusted with a calcium with no D3 at every feeding, calcium with D3 twice a month, and the reptivite twice a month. The easiest way to remember is to alternate on Sundays. One Sunday reptivite, next Sunday Calcium w/D3, at least that's what's easiest for a scatter brain like me.
There's a blog on here by Sandrachameleon that explains how to use fresh foods to make your crickets more nutritious. It's called "gutloading" your crickets. I make a bunch up and freeze it, so it's easy to use. I'd also see if you can get him some different feeders, or see if he'll eat some fresh greens or fruit. I've read that veileds like that.
Yellow urates (pee) usually means that he's dehydrated. Maybe he needs more misting times. A water bowl is usually not recommended, because most chameleons won't drink out them, and will poop in them, making bacteria. I'm very surprised your guy uses a bowl. Can you rig up a dripper for him? It could be as simple as a cup with a pin hole on the bottom, just so it slowly drips water on the plant leaves so he can drink.
He's going to end up needing a bigger house, too. Adult male veileds need a cage that's 24 inches wide by 24 inches deep by 48 inches tall. He's going to be a big boy.
His food should be dusted with a calcium with no D3 at every feeding, calcium with D3 twice a month, and the reptivite twice a month. The easiest way to remember is to alternate on Sundays. One Sunday reptivite, next Sunday Calcium w/D3, at least that's what's easiest for a scatter brain like me.
There's a blog on here by Sandrachameleon that explains how to use fresh foods to make your crickets more nutritious. It's called "gutloading" your crickets. I make a bunch up and freeze it, so it's easy to use. I'd also see if you can get him some different feeders, or see if he'll eat some fresh greens or fruit. I've read that veileds like that.
Yellow urates (pee) usually means that he's dehydrated. Maybe he needs more misting times. A water bowl is usually not recommended, because most chameleons won't drink out them, and will poop in them, making bacteria. I'm very surprised your guy uses a bowl. Can you rig up a dripper for him? It could be as simple as a cup with a pin hole on the bottom, just so it slowly drips water on the plant leaves so he can drink.
He's going to end up needing a bigger house, too. Adult male veileds need a cage that's 24 inches wide by 24 inches deep by 48 inches tall. He's going to be a big boy.
Chameleon Company
Avid Member
As noted by at least one other poster, the measure of your chameleon's current well-being is not your panic over observing, or not observing, an expected feeding regimen for a few days. However, if you are not providing UVB, that is a deficiency regardless. I second, or third, any recommendation that you provide certain UVB.
As to other changes, I do not yet see them indicated. If any other negative observation manifests, such as lethargy or closed yes, please keep us posted.
As to other changes, I do not yet see them indicated. If any other negative observation manifests, such as lethargy or closed yes, please keep us posted.
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carol5208
Chameleon Enthusiast
As noted by at least one other poster, the measure of your chameleon's current well-being is not your panic over observing, or not observing, an expected feeding regimen for a few days. That you then bring this to the Forum as a problem, likely ready to adjust your husbandry, based on someone's suggestion of a possible problem, is absurd.
Your chameleon has not yet shown any sign of deficiency. There is nothing yet in what you have provided to indicate a valid deficiency. Patience, and a measured evaluation, are requirements of successful chameleon husbandry. But do keep us posted, as valid issues may arise.[/QUOT
I am confused on your post Jim The OP thought his chameleon was a male and it is a female. It is not eating, and therefore could very well be carrying eggs. Why not put in a laying bin for safe measures and as far as the UVB light, well shouldn't he have one? Maybe I am reading your post wrong, but what is so absurd???
carol5208
Chameleon Enthusiast
here is the laying bin info for you.
https://www.chameleonforums.com/laying-bin-set-up-educational-video-77225/
https://www.chameleonforums.com/laying-bin-set-up-educational-video-77225/
Chameleon Company
Avid Member
As noted by at least one other poster, the measure of your chameleon's current well-being is not your panic over observing, or not observing, an expected feeding regimen for a few days. That you then bring this to the Forum as a problem, likely ready to adjust your husbandry, based on someone's suggestion of a possible problem, is absurd.
Your chameleon has not yet shown any sign of deficiency. There is nothing yet in what you have provided to indicate a valid deficiency. Patience, and a measured evaluation, are requirements of successful chameleon husbandry. But do keep us posted, as valid issues may arise.[/QUOT
I am confused on your post Jim The OP thought his chameleon was a male and it is a female. It is not eating, and therefore could very well be carrying eggs. Why not put in a laying bin for safe measures and as far as the UVB light, well shouldn't he have one? Maybe I am reading your post wrong, but what is so absurd???
While you were posting such, I was also amending my response. Such as introducing a laying bin was not something that I posted contrary to. I would note such as an innocent, or non-detriimental, response. It has no negative impact of the chameleon
My concerns often go to interventions to fix something that has not yet been determined to be broken. Even if the animal is needing to lay, and that has surely not been determined, a laying bucket will not matter a hoot to its future viability. If it has not been bred, the eggs are no good. But as I noted, the presentation of a laying medium adds no detriment to the chameleon.
kplatvoet
Member
I think what Chameleon Company was trying to say was that sometimes chameleons go off of eating for a couple of days - since he hasn't shed lately he may be about to shed- He could also be board with crickets and as they grow older they tend to eat less- check the care sheets to see that you have every thing he needs - and get a fecal done - (my vet charges $16.00 and I don't have to bring him in) Check his poop - (Poop 101) and relax - If you got a female instead of a male get a laying bin in her cage- you can post a picture of his/her feet in the chameleon identification and find out for sure-
carol5208
Chameleon Enthusiast
yes, this is very true. But the Op thought he had a male and instead has a female and the female could be with eggs. Whether they are fertile or not, they still would need to be laid, therefore it is still a good idea to have a laying bin in the cage,
Chameleon Company
Avid Member
I didn't see where it was said that a laying bin was a bad idea. As to their "needing to be laid", the more accurate characterization is that they will be laid, as a laying bin or no laying bin will not prevent her from ejecting the eggs. I am not recommending denying her the opportunity to dig, but a laying bin does not go to the OP's immediate concerns.
Were she with eggs, the owner should be able to visually see this. However, if inexperienced and unsure, they could easily massage her and feel the eggs. This has only been explained in my website for about 10 years.
http://www.chameleoncompany.com/Breeding.html
Point being, the owner is more than capable of determining if the chameleon being-with-eggs is the issue, without waiting to see if she lays eggs that may not be there.
