Herpguy94...does your Mom keep any reptiles? If so, what?
Background information: I have been keeping/breeding/hatching/raising chameleons for over 20 years...
Show this to your Mom...
Exposure to UVB either from a tube/linear UVB light or direct sunlight (neither of which should pass through glass or plastic) will allow the chameleon to produce vitmamin D3 which will allow it to use the calcium in its diet. Although addition of D3 to the chameleon's diet through supplements may provide the D3 needed, its very hard to regulate it so that you don't give too little or too much. D3 FROM SUPPLEMENTS can build up in the system. If your chameleon only gets the UVB from the UVB light on its cage, then it doesn't hurt to dust the insects before feeding them to the chameleon LIGHTLY twice a month with a phosphorous-free calcium powder.
Here's a site that talks about D3...
http://web.archive.org/web/20060421.../index.php?show=6.Vitamin.D3.and.Calcium.html
The compact UVB bulbs can cause photo kerato conjuctivitus so they should not be used.
Here's the site that talks about that...
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/index.htm
I also dust twice a month lightly with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene source of vitamin A. Beta carotene won't build up in the chameleon's system like preformed vitamin A will. There is some controversy about whether chameleons can convert the beta carotene into vitamin A...so some people use a little preformed once in a while. BE VERY CAREFUL with the preformed because it can build up in the system and any excess can prevent the D3 from doing its job and lead to MBD. Personally I have not used any preformed vitamin A for my VEILED chameleons for many years and they live long healthy lives.
Here's a site that talks about vitamin A...
http://web.archive.org/web/20060502...rnals.com/vet/index.php?show=5.Vitamin.A.html
Most feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorous so I dust at most feedings with a phosphorous-free calcium powder to make up for it.
Calcium, phosphorous, vitamin A and D3 are the main players in bone health and its important to keep them in balance. Look at the supplements, the food that you feed to the insects and what you feed to the chameleon when trying to attain a balance. Failure to maintain the balance can lead to MBD.
Appropriate temperatures also play a part in this because they allow for proper digestion.
Gutloading the insects and feeding them a nutritious diet also plays a part. You can gutload the crickets with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, sweet potatoes, squash, zucchini, sweet red peppers, etc.)
Veiled chameleons can also be fed any of those greens and veggies and a little bit of fruit (apple, pear, berries, melon, etc.)
Female veileds can produce eggs even without being mated (as someone already mentioned) so its important once they are 5 or 6 months old to provide a suitable place in the cage for them to dig in so that they can let you know when/if they need to lay them.
Overfeeding can lead to egglaying problems once they are old enough to produce. It can also lead to constipation and prolapses.
Here are some more sites with good information...
http://www.adcham.com/
http://www.chameleonnews.com/
https://www.chameleonforums.com/supplementation-mbd-1-a-2451/
http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/
There are likely things that I have missed...but I hope this will help.