nicholas
Established Member
Well said.
Im a noob, and i hv a Senegal Cham
- Thread starter IlovLeLe
- Start date
Well said.
OK! i didnt know I was goin to get a chameleon, it was kinda sprung on me to. And sorry its such a horrible home for him but im doin the best i can with what i got. thats why im here to try help him live and be happy. I dont want him to die and the person at the pet store told me its the bulb that i needed. Im here to get on the right track. I feel like im hurting him now and thats the last thing i want to do. the lady my mom bought him from had him/her in a tank with another chameleon and it was being mean to him/her.. he had black marks all over him. and he still has some but most have gone away. Maybe you think I should have left him there. but i couldnt. I will get the bulbs as soon as i can. and a bigger cage.. but you dont have to be mean.. Im trying the best I can.
thank you i will
thank you i will look for one of these also
Welcome to the world of chameleons and to the forum!
First of all here is some important information to know when you are keeping a chameleon...
Exposure to proper UVB, appropriate temperatures, supplements, a supply of well-fed/gutloaded insects, water and an appropriate cage set-up are all important for the well-being of your chameleon.
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption. Temperatures needed can vary with the species and age. For hatchling panthers I keep the temperature in the warmest area in the low 80's. For older panthers I keep it in the mid to high 80's for the most part.
Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.
Since many of the feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).
If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).
Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite.)
Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)
Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.
Here are some good sites for you to read...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
If you can't access the sites above that have the word "archive" in you can do it through the WayBackMachine.
The above has given you information on the supplements, lighting and gutloading....here is some information about your set-up...
you can use a screen cage or one of the glass ones that has a screen lid and some vents in the front. I have always kept my Senegals in the glass ones and they have done quite well there. There are different issues with each. With a screen cage you will have more difficulty keeping it humid, keeping the temperatures right in the cage, preventing the misting from going outside the cage and damaging the wall, etc. With a glass on you need to make sure that you don't let water lay stagnant on the floor of the cage and that you set your lights up so that they create a chimney affect to help with the air flow. The humidity will be easier to keep up, but you will have to make sure that don't let condensation form on the sides of the cage. If you live in a hot area, then screen is best. If you live in a cool/cold area then the glass may be best.
For an adult Senegal, I would recommend a cage that is at least 18" x 18" x 24" high. Make sure that there are lots of vines/branches for it to climb on and enough non-toxic well-washed (both sides of the leaves) foliage to make it feel secure.
Water can be provided by misting, using a dripper at least once a day. Senegals need quite a bit of water.
Regarding using WC insects...there can be a risk of parasites and you must be careful to collect them in areas where there are no pesticides, etc. used...and where the plants they might have eaten are not toxic.
Hope this helps.
First of all here is some important information to know when you are keeping a chameleon...
Exposure to proper UVB, appropriate temperatures, supplements, a supply of well-fed/gutloaded insects, water and an appropriate cage set-up are all important for the well-being of your chameleon.
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption. Temperatures needed can vary with the species and age. For hatchling panthers I keep the temperature in the warmest area in the low 80's. For older panthers I keep it in the mid to high 80's for the most part.
Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.
Since many of the feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).
If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).
Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite.)
Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)
Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.
Here are some good sites for you to read...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
If you can't access the sites above that have the word "archive" in you can do it through the WayBackMachine.
The above has given you information on the supplements, lighting and gutloading....here is some information about your set-up...
you can use a screen cage or one of the glass ones that has a screen lid and some vents in the front. I have always kept my Senegals in the glass ones and they have done quite well there. There are different issues with each. With a screen cage you will have more difficulty keeping it humid, keeping the temperatures right in the cage, preventing the misting from going outside the cage and damaging the wall, etc. With a glass on you need to make sure that you don't let water lay stagnant on the floor of the cage and that you set your lights up so that they create a chimney affect to help with the air flow. The humidity will be easier to keep up, but you will have to make sure that don't let condensation form on the sides of the cage. If you live in a hot area, then screen is best. If you live in a cool/cold area then the glass may be best.
For an adult Senegal, I would recommend a cage that is at least 18" x 18" x 24" high. Make sure that there are lots of vines/branches for it to climb on and enough non-toxic well-washed (both sides of the leaves) foliage to make it feel secure.
Water can be provided by misting, using a dripper at least once a day. Senegals need quite a bit of water.
Regarding using WC insects...there can be a risk of parasites and you must be careful to collect them in areas where there are no pesticides, etc. used...and where the plants they might have eaten are not toxic.
Hope this helps.
Trace
Captain Awesome
You've gotten some excellent advice so far, particularly from Kinyongia. Definitely read the links she gave you so you can provide the best care for your new buddy.
I just wanted to say that you have a female Senegal Chameleon. I have not noticed them to cycle or lay eggs in captivity as much as some of the more commonly kept species but once you've gotten the basic husbandry down, look into proper rearing of female chameleons. The Raising Kitty site has an excellent section about that.
Have fun with your new pet! Senegal chameleons are nice little animals. Don't be shy about asking questions, that's what we are here for.
Cheers,
Trace
I just wanted to say that you have a female Senegal Chameleon. I have not noticed them to cycle or lay eggs in captivity as much as some of the more commonly kept species but once you've gotten the basic husbandry down, look into proper rearing of female chameleons. The Raising Kitty site has an excellent section about that.
Have fun with your new pet! Senegal chameleons are nice little animals. Don't be shy about asking questions, that's what we are here for.
Cheers,
Trace
spadefish
Member
Enclosures and supplies
If money is tight right now, you can look on craigslist for cages and lighting fixtures. i have found some really inexpensive supplies that way. You will find that a 5.5" clamp lamp from your local petsmart or pet store with a Reptisun 5.0 compact uVA/B bulb will work for her and they are less expensive than the linears. I use exclusively Reptisun UVA/B compact bulbs and they are fine. give her a backing light of no more than 40 watts in the tank. Once she is in a screen enclosure, if it is 24" tall, I would use a 60 watt basking (you can use a regular old incandescent household bulb you can buy at the grocery store).
LLL reptile is having a sale on the 18x18x36 screen cages. You can put a nice bushy hibiscus in there and put your girl right outisde if the weather is nice and she will love it. They love water, so if you use a screen cage inside, I would recommend getting a tray to catch the runoff. (LLL sells one to go with the screen cage, but you could also jury-rig one with a rubbermaid container).
Good luck!
If money is tight right now, you can look on craigslist for cages and lighting fixtures. i have found some really inexpensive supplies that way. You will find that a 5.5" clamp lamp from your local petsmart or pet store with a Reptisun 5.0 compact uVA/B bulb will work for her and they are less expensive than the linears. I use exclusively Reptisun UVA/B compact bulbs and they are fine. give her a backing light of no more than 40 watts in the tank. Once she is in a screen enclosure, if it is 24" tall, I would use a 60 watt basking (you can use a regular old incandescent household bulb you can buy at the grocery store).
LLL reptile is having a sale on the 18x18x36 screen cages. You can put a nice bushy hibiscus in there and put your girl right outisde if the weather is nice and she will love it. They love water, so if you use a screen cage inside, I would recommend getting a tray to catch the runoff. (LLL sells one to go with the screen cage, but you could also jury-rig one with a rubbermaid container).
Good luck!
ChamChick
New Member
ILovLeLe:
I am most definitely not going to jump all over you. I read that your Mom got you this little guy on a whim, and I commend you for wanting to do what is best for him now that he is in your care.
I agree with everyone on here about the items you need for your chameleon, especially the UVB. He has been in your care for 3 weeks thus far, without UVB, and if your Mom got him at a flea market, I highly doubt they provided him UVB there... so really, who knows how long he has been without it.
That said, I am going to provide you with some links that will go straight to items that you need for your little guy to get him housed, fed, and supplemented correctly. I want to make this as easy as I can on you, so you can get what you need in a timely manner. I have a feeling you don't know where to start, and I want to help you, and your chameleon out.
Here is a complete chameleon package (although it does NOT have everything you need) and it is a start.... I'm going with the 100 gal. because Im not sure of the age of your cham...you may be able to go with a 65 gal though if money is tight:
http://lllreptile.com/store/catalog/reptile-supplies/complete-cage-packages/-/100-gallon-chameleon-package/
PLEASE THROW AWAY THE MOSS IN IT, AND DON'T USE THE THERMOMETER THAT IS INCLUDED, IT IS JUNK.
Also you will need this most definitely:
http://lllreptile.com/store/catalog/reptile-supplies/thermometers-thermostats-and-timers/-/flukers-digital-thermometerhumidity-guage/
Also these...VERY IMPORTANT:
http://lllreptile.com/store/catalog/reptile-supplies/vitamins-medicines-and-cage-cleaners/reptile-calcium-and-vitamins/-/rep-cal-calcium-and-herptivite-combo-special/
http://lllreptile.com/store/catalog/reptile-supplies/vitamins-medicines-and-cage-cleaners/reptile-calcium-and-vitamins/-/rep-cal-calcium-without-d3/[/URL
Anyone that may know more about this particular chameleon, and their supplement needs please correct me if these are not correct.
Also for your feeder needs, please visit:[URL="http://mulberryfarms.com"]http://mulberryfarms.com
They have everything you need...
Please be sure to GUTLOAD your crickets at least 4 hours before feeding them to your Cham. The trick it to make sure the crickets bellies are full of good fruits and veggies when you feed them to you cham, and the food you have fed to the crickets hasn't been excreted as waste....
I really hope this helps you and your little guy out. I know it seems like a lot, and it is, but it is IMPERATIVE you correct these things, and fast, or I'm afraid your chameleon will perish.
If you have any questions please feel free to ask us. We are here to help.
Also, if I left anything off the list, someone please add it!
I am most definitely not going to jump all over you. I read that your Mom got you this little guy on a whim, and I commend you for wanting to do what is best for him now that he is in your care.
I agree with everyone on here about the items you need for your chameleon, especially the UVB. He has been in your care for 3 weeks thus far, without UVB, and if your Mom got him at a flea market, I highly doubt they provided him UVB there... so really, who knows how long he has been without it.
That said, I am going to provide you with some links that will go straight to items that you need for your little guy to get him housed, fed, and supplemented correctly. I want to make this as easy as I can on you, so you can get what you need in a timely manner. I have a feeling you don't know where to start, and I want to help you, and your chameleon out.
Here is a complete chameleon package (although it does NOT have everything you need) and it is a start.... I'm going with the 100 gal. because Im not sure of the age of your cham...you may be able to go with a 65 gal though if money is tight:
http://lllreptile.com/store/catalog/reptile-supplies/complete-cage-packages/-/100-gallon-chameleon-package/
PLEASE THROW AWAY THE MOSS IN IT, AND DON'T USE THE THERMOMETER THAT IS INCLUDED, IT IS JUNK.
Also you will need this most definitely:
http://lllreptile.com/store/catalog/reptile-supplies/thermometers-thermostats-and-timers/-/flukers-digital-thermometerhumidity-guage/
Also these...VERY IMPORTANT:
http://lllreptile.com/store/catalog/reptile-supplies/vitamins-medicines-and-cage-cleaners/reptile-calcium-and-vitamins/-/rep-cal-calcium-and-herptivite-combo-special/
http://lllreptile.com/store/catalog/reptile-supplies/vitamins-medicines-and-cage-cleaners/reptile-calcium-and-vitamins/-/rep-cal-calcium-without-d3/[/URL
Anyone that may know more about this particular chameleon, and their supplement needs please correct me if these are not correct.
Also for your feeder needs, please visit:[URL="http://mulberryfarms.com"]http://mulberryfarms.com
They have everything you need...
Please be sure to GUTLOAD your crickets at least 4 hours before feeding them to your Cham. The trick it to make sure the crickets bellies are full of good fruits and veggies when you feed them to you cham, and the food you have fed to the crickets hasn't been excreted as waste....
I really hope this helps you and your little guy out. I know it seems like a lot, and it is, but it is IMPERATIVE you correct these things, and fast, or I'm afraid your chameleon will perish.
If you have any questions please feel free to ask us. We are here to help.
Also, if I left anything off the list, someone please add it!
