If uvb tube is too bright?

[tryme]

What can actually happen if you use a UVB tube that is too high for your cham. For example giving them exposure to a 10.0 when they only need a 5.0 due to the enclosure set up etc? I thought the more the better in some cases just like the sun?

 

[opihiman]

I think of it this way. If you put your cham in the regular sunlight, provided the temps stay good. they would just move down and under the shade.

Hope that helps

OPI

 

[Dave Weldon]

What can actually happen if you use a UVB tube that is too high for your cham. For example giving them exposure to a 10.0 when they only need a 5.0 due to the enclosure set up etc? I thought the more the better in some cases just like the sun?

Howdy,

One would think that providing a chameleon with an artificial UVB source with similar uW levels to natural sunlight UVB levels (~300uW/cm2) would be exactly what one should try to do for chameleons. The tricky part is that the other parts of sunlight spectrum also play a role in vitamin D3 production and regulation. Without those other spectral influences present in the right proportions in the artificial UVB light source, we need to be a little more careful about what and how much UVB we supply. A safe level is produced from the Reptisun 5.0 linear tube. The Reptisun 10.0 linear tube is not inherently dangerous when positioned at the proper distance to produce safe UVB levels. Many keepers have found that Reptisun 5.0 or 10.0 will produce safe and effective UVB levels when positioned between 6"-12" or 10"-16" respectively. These distances will produce roughly 20uW-50uW/cm2 of UVB.

Some UVB sources actually have spectral content that isn't even part of normal sunlight ! An example of a tube with a dangerous spectral content is the R-Zilla Desert 50 series lamp. It is "rated" at a somewhat reasonable 50uW/cm2 at 12" yet it is highly likely that it will injure or even kill a chameleon because of its "out-of-band" spectral content. Chameleons have literally been sunburned to death by this highly biologically active spectral content.

Another word of caution: Don't ever be tempted to use a "UVB" source that hasn't been scientifically evaluated for use in reptile environments. Whenever possible, refer to the http://www.uvguide.co.uk site as a source of data to make your evaluation.

 

[tryme]

Ok thanks for the reply

 

[themonsheshe]

thanks for the link, very informative. I actually have all three types of lamps in my room, my chameleon spends time near all three, and i dont own a meter to check the levels. i have a couple questions...

1) does a mercury vapor and compact flourescents have the same lifespan as a tube? I didnt see on that page where it addressed this,although it probably did.

2) do these lamps affect the chameleons eyesight? (especially the MV.)

 

[Dave Weldon]

1) does a mercury vapor and compact flourescents have the same lifespan as a tube?

2) do these lamps affect the chameleons eyesight? (especially the MV.)

Howdy,

1]. The lifespan of any of these products is probably more affected by which brand than which type. One thing that will affect the lifespan of a self-ballasted MV is that it has a fragile filament that can easily break if bumped or mounted incorrectly. Compact fluorescents can suffer from a failure of the built-in electronic ballast before the actual tube ages-out.

2]. Most any UVB source has the potential to do harm if used improperly. The UVB energy density from any CF at very close range could be damaging. We have verified reports of the CF Reptisun 10.0 causing eye problems even at “normal” distances. To a lesser extent, the CF Reptisun 5.0 could lead to problems too. It has more to do with the Reptisun CF products being made with an "incorrect" phosphor than its high UVB levels alone. The Reptisun 5.0 and 10.0 linear tubes were made with what might be the industry’s best phosphor and no one else has duplicated it. That’s why we recommend them more often than other UVB fluorescent tubes.

There are some dangerous MV products on the market too. Stay away from anything that hasn't been researched and given a clean bill of health by: http://www.uvguide.co.uk/. In general, you are "safer" with brands like Mega-Ray, T-Rex, and Zoomed for MV UVB sources but that doesn't mean that you can't improperly set them up and do damage anyway. Unless you know what you are doing (and maybe have a Solarmeter 6.2) stick with a Reptisun 5.0 UVB linear tube and a separate basking lamp.

Don’t forget a good dose of Mother Nature’s unfiltered sunshine .

 

[themonsheshe]

Thanks Dave,

heres a link to part of my room. https://www.chameleonforums.com/mem...mr-licky-picture1237-part-free-range-room.jpg

It started out harmless enough with just the cage screened in, your more typical setup, but I got carried away and built up the area around it for him to roam.That progressed into the cham spending more and more time out of the cage and i eventually took the screens off the front and sides and now he goes wherever the hell he wants. I like to think he's happier this way and therefore somehow healthier, but the uvb aspect presents a bit of a challenge.To the left there is a window which I retrofitted an small cage to fit in during the summer months.

https://www.chameleonforums.com/mem...icture1238-chameleon-room-outdoor-window.html

the light inside the cage part is a reptisun 5.0. the light in the middle of the room screwed into the socket that was available is the mercury vapor zoomed power sun 100w. off to the right on the ceiling again is a fluker sun glow 23w. the light you can see back to the left is a heat lamp.The room is 6x6x8. the lights are roughly 3ft apart and the closest he can perch is 12'

I guess obtaining a uvb meter is the first step, but after reading the link you sent there's a whole lot more to it than that.Is the meter you mentioned the one worth getting?