Chami!
The females are known to be much sassier than the males.
It sounds much like Ollie's set up; so I'd recommend much of the same I did for him in your previous post. Except there are some slight changes you'll need to make, because it's female.
But, first I want to show you some ways to make a divider between the cages. Chameleons are solitary pets and get super stressed if they see each other.
You can put a garbage bag on the outside held with magnets, or hang a peice of plastic on the side.
You can also add fake plants to the outside, or make a screen that your cat can't reach.
Like this: garbage bag trick with magnets.
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Garbage bag and fake plants:
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Home made privacy screen with curtains:
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If you're looking for a cheap and easy fix, I'd recommend putting them side by side and using the the garage bag trick until you're able to come up with a permanent solution. It will help keep your humidity up too. It's especially important to give the female privacy when she's ready to lay eggs, or they can become egg bound if they don't feel safe. This is why my girl's cage has the bottom 1/2 blacked out.
I've previously given you the link to her blog on egg laying; but I'm going to tag
@MissSkittles because she's super knowledgeable of keeping multiple chameleons, female needs, and bioactive set ups. There is a way to make your reptibreeze bioactive, but I've never tried it.
To help keep the humidity there are also cheap tricks to make the reptibreeze a hybrid (I've used window film on mine).
The xl reptibreeze often goes on sale at petsmart, I'd recommend getting one and turning it into a hybrid/bioactive as an affordable solution to buying the hybrid cages. This way they can move into a bigger home sooner.
If you're able to make the cage bioactive, there's no need for a lay bin, and it will save space in her cage.
In addition to feeding a female less, to help further prevent egg production, it's recommend to keep their basking area slightly cooler than the males. I keep mine around 77f in the basking area, and 62 ambient.
I'd use caution if you're swapping plants from one cage to another. It's best if each cham has their own feeding dishes and plants. This helps prevent spreading worms, or any other thing that can cause the other cham to get sick.
Looking forward to seeing photos, reach out if you have more questions!
This is my female.
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. So now I mist about 4-5 minutes a day once before lights come on, and after I get home from work. I do a light 2 minutes misting before I go to work, I also use a reptisafe water conditioner. I see Chami drinking almost everyday, she will often drink as I spray her enclosure or gather from leaves after she ran away from the mister as soon as it barely touches her… haha
You’ve been given some excellent advice already. I’d like to see some more pics of your chameleons and their enclosures. You most definitely need to block Ollie and Chami’s views of each other other asap. They get stressed by seeing other chameleons and even other species of animals. My male veiled gets totally obsessed if he can see one of my bearded dragons and will do nothing but glare at it non stop. It’s made for some interesting and creative draping of bed sheets in their room. 
Also, keep in mind that veiled girls are very likely to eat their plants and can strip them of all leaves. I’m always taking clippings from pothos (and others) and starting new plants for my little green destroyer of plants. Hibiscus is nice, but it can be challenging to fully clean it of all pests. No matter how thorough I’ve been, somehow they always bring in ants or other bugs I don’t want and then have the challenge of getting rid of. I would instead suggest schefflera. Add lots of branches of varied diameters to exercise little mitten feet muscles fully. I have everything from just thick enough to bear cham weight to almost as thick as my wrist.
