Humidity too low

While us humans pretty much project our personal feelings about food and such onto our animals and food is love, we do find it hard at times (at least I do) to restrict our ladies diets. However, we can make up for it by offering some tasty variety to what we feed them.
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And don’t forget to gutload well.
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I love how all of the information is on one page. Lol I do have some hornworms and superworms. I feed the superworms once a day and the hornworm once a week. I'm definitely experimenting with gutloading the crickets. I feed them apples, bananas and kale carrots. Thinking about buying some bee pollen and mixing up a bunch of that stuff to freeze it cubes. What do yall think of that method?
 
I love how all of the information is on one page. Lol I do have some hornworms and superworms. I feed the superworms once a day and the hornworm once a week. I'm definitely experimenting with gutloading the crickets. I feed them apples, bananas and kale carrots. Thinking about buying some bee pollen and mixing up a bunch of that stuff to freeze it cubes. What do yall think of that method?
Many keepers do just that and I’m about to try it myself.
 
I do this... I got a food processor. I have the gutload sheet on my phone to go to the store. I pick 4-5 veg and 2or 3 fruits and blend it all up. Rotate what I buy the next time for diversity in gutload. I add in about 2 tablespoons bee pollen. Put it into containers and freeze them. Then thaw a container when I need it. I did not do the ice cubes because it is too much food for what I give since I clean it out daily and add new. It is fun and easy as heck! Highly recommend. Wish I would have started doing it sooner.
 
I do this... I got a food processor. I have the gutload sheet on my phone to go to the store. I pick 4-5 veg and 2or 3 fruits and blend it all up. Rotate what I buy the next time for diversity in gutload. I add in about 2 tablespoons bee pollen. Put it into containers and freeze them. Then thaw a container when I need it. I did not do the ice cubes because it is too much food for what I give since I clean it out daily and add new. It is fun and easy as heck! Highly recommend. Wish I would have started doing it sooner.
Sounds awseome!!! We dont have so many feeders so I'll probably just do the ice cubes. That's a good idea about getting the gutload sheet on your phone and switching it up. I am going to do that too!
 
So veiled only need a 30-50% humidity level for daytime...

As far as temps... You have to keep it a bit different if you want to control how many eggs she lays.

You will not want basking to be over 80 for her. Very important for females because as she ages she needs this temp no higher at basking to help control the amount of eggs she produces.
As she matures you will have to start cutting back her food. By about 6 months she should be getting about 5-8 small feeders each day. At about 7 months you want to slowly reduce by cutting down feeders so that she is on a feeding schedule of 3 days a week with 3-4 feeders. You want them to be on this schedule by the time they are 10 months old.

Accurate info and Product links for things I like:

https://chameleonacademy.com/

https://www.chameleonbreeder.com/

https://www.youtube.com/c/NeptunetheChameleon?sub_confirmation=1

www.dragonstrand.com

https://tkchameleons.com/collections/accessories/products/shooting-gallery
I did not know this. Do the care sheets need to be updated? It says 85 F for an adult female
 
I changed out the bulb so now the temperature is 80 in the baking spot and misted her in the morning, the humidity went up 40%. Fed her 10 crickets and tried to feed her a horn worm but those things got huge! What is too big for her?
 
I did not know this. Do the care sheets need to be updated? It says 85 F for an adult female
I am a little confused now
So the caresheet shows the standard temps... The information I gave you is what a friend of mine does with her females. She has had much success doing this method. Her females either lay 1 small clutch once a year or end up never becoming gravid. Experienced keeper have their methods with their females because they have tried it and been successful. They learn from one another and this is what many do with their females now. So many keepers drop temp to 80 max and reduce feeder intake Because this has been found to drastically reduce egg production. So you end up with much smaller clutches by doing this. Then in turn you have a female that does not go through a horrible lay of 60 eggs where she is left depleted.
 
So the caresheet shows the standard temps... The information I gave you is what a friend of mine does with her females. She has had much success doing this method. Her females either lay 1 small clutch once a year or end up never becoming gravid. Experienced keeper have their methods with their females because they have tried it and been successful. They learn from one another and this is what many do with their females now. So many keepers drop temp to 80 max and reduce feeder intake Because this has been found to drastically reduce egg production. So you end up with much smaller clutches by doing this. Then in turn you have a female that does not go through a horrible lay of 60 eggs where she is left depleted.
I put in a lower watt bulb but it's still getting up to 90. Maybe I should raise the lightbulb up away from the screen?
 
Also, those analog thermometer/hydrPeter are very inaccurate. You will definitely need to get 2-3+ digital thermometer/hydrometer and place them at different points throught the enclosure.

I also noticed no one had you fill out the help form. If you fill this out you will get the detailed info to help your baby have the best life possible. ?
 
Here is some recommended information to include when asking for help in the health clinic forum. By providing this information you will receive more accurate and beneficial responses. It might not be necessary to answer all these questions, but the more you provide the better. Please remember that even the most knowledgeable person can only guess at what your problem may be. Only an experienced reptile veterinarian who can directly examine your animal can give a true diagnosis of your chameleon's health.


Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.
Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?
Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

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Please Note:
  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
 
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