Humidity help?

ebarrychameleon

ebarrychameleon

Member
Hi guys, I’m having a lot of trouble with my humidity. I recently moved my chams setup for the 3rd time to make sure she would be warm enough at night. However, the room shes in now is sucking her humidity down to 35-40%. I have a humidifier blowing directly into the enclosure and it doesn’t help, it even makes it go down further sometimes. I have 4 live plants in there as well. I have a Monsoon mister that goes for a minute straight every 2 hours, which is mostly for her drinking water but also to try for better humidity. I thought these things are what to do for low humidity 😭 I’m just a concerned mom bc I know that especially for females humidity is vital if you don’t want them to get egg bound. Does anyone have additional ideas I can try?
 

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ebarrychameleon said:
Hi guys, I’m having a lot of trouble with my humidity. I recently moved my chams setup for the 3rd time to make sure she would be warm enough at night. However, the room shes in now is sucking her humidity down to 35-40%. I have a humidifier blowing directly into the enclosure and it doesn’t help, it even makes it go down further sometimes. I have 4 live plants in there as well. I have a Monsoon mister that goes for a minute straight every 2 hours, which is mostly for her drinking water but also to try for better humidity. I thought these things are what to do for low humidity 😭 I’m just a concerned mom bc I know that especially for females humidity is vital if you don’t want them to get egg bound. Does anyone have additional ideas I can try?
Click to expand...
What species is your female? Also filling out the Ask For Help Form (linked in my signature since my computer won’t let me copy and paste it) will be greatly appreciated.
 
ebarrychameleon said:
Does anyone have additional ideas I can try?
Click to expand...
Lots, but I don't want to freak you out all at once. :rolleyes:
Forgive me if you've tried some or all of these—IDK, and sometimes I have trouble seeing the pics.
  • Humidity is relative; as temps go up, humidity goes down (and vice versa). Just something to keep in mind when analyzing. Recommended temperatures & humidities are averages & ranges; they don't have to be perfect 24/7.
  • You mentioned 4 live plants. IDK if that's all of them, but all plants should be live. Live plants help increase and maintain humidity; the more—and more mature—the better. More plants means more surface area for mist water to evaporate off of, and more transpiration.
  • Looks like an all-screen enclosure(?) Try (for starters) covering the back & sides with window insulation kit plastic. If there's a screened area in front below the door, you can try covering the door as well; the area below will allow air in and create a chimney effect with the screen top for ventilation.
I recently moved my chams setup for the 3rd time to make sure she would be warm enough at night.
Click to expand...
How cold was it at night? Nighttime temps can safely drop to 50F.

I'm not sure what's going on with the humidifier, as I don't use one—but if it's exacerbating the situation, I'd put it on hold for a while.

Sounds like you're misting quite a bit. That's good, but the enclosure should dry out completely between daytime mistings (you probably know that).

Let us know if you've tried these, and we'll try to come up with others.
See Also: raising humidity in a chameleon enclosure (general search of articles & vids)
 
Klyde O'Scope said:
Lots, but I don't want to freak you out all at once. :rolleyes:
Forgive me if you've tried some or all of these—IDK, and sometimes I have trouble seeing the pics.
  • Humidity is relative; as temps go up, humidity goes down (and vice versa). Just something to keep in mind when analyzing. Recommended temperatures & humidities are averages & ranges; they don't have to be perfect 24/7.
  • You mentioned 4 live plants. IDK if that's all of them, but all plants should be live. Live plants help increase and maintain humidity; the more—and more mature—the better. More plants means more surface area for mist water to evaporate off of, and more transpiration.
  • Looks like an all-screen enclosure(?) Try (for starters) covering the back & sides with window insulation kit plastic. If there's a screened area in front below the door, you can try covering the door as well; the area below will allow air in and create a chimney effect with the screen top for ventilation.

How cold was it at night? Nighttime temps can safely drop to 50F.

I'm not sure what's going on with the humidifier, as I don't use one—but if it's exacerbating the situation, I'd put it on hold for a while.

Sounds like you're misting quite a bit. That's good, but the enclosure should dry out completely between daytime mistings (you probably know that).

Let us know if you've tried these, and we'll try to come up with others.
See Also: raising humidity in a chameleon enclosure (general search of articles & vids)
Click to expand...
Does the OP have a veiled?
 
Hi when I moved my girl into her first repti breeze from an exoterra it was a bit harder to get humidity right as Klyde says I used hydroponic plastic on the back and one side I mist 3 times a day 2 minutes each and have 17 plant's lol 😆 don't really get over 80 at night both sides and back should make a reasonable difference. Is the duck a cool mist humidifier
 
Klyde O'Scope said:
Lots, but I don't want to freak you out all at once. :rolleyes:
Forgive me if you've tried some or all of these—IDK, and sometimes I have trouble seeing the pics.
  • Humidity is relative; as temps go up, humidity goes down (and vice versa). Just something to keep in mind when analyzing. Recommended temperatures & humidities are averages & ranges; they don't have to be perfect 24/7.
  • You mentioned 4 live plants. IDK if that's all of them, but all plants should be live. Live plants help increase and maintain humidity; the more—and more mature—the better. More plants means more surface area for mist water to evaporate off of, and more transpiration.
  • Looks like an all-screen enclosure(?) Try (for starters) covering the back & sides with window insulation kit plastic. If there's a screened area in front below the door, you can try covering the door as well; the area below will allow air in and create a chimney effect with the screen top for ventilation.

How cold was it at night? Nighttime temps can safely drop to 50F.

I'm not sure what's going on with the humidifier, as I don't use one—but if it's exacerbating the situation, I'd put it on hold for a while.

Sounds like you're misting quite a bit. That's good, but the enclosure should dry out completely between daytime mistings (you probably know that).

Let us know if you've tried these, and we'll try to come up with others.
See Also: raising humidity in a chameleon enclosure (general search of articles & vids)
Click to expand...
Thanks so much! Yeah, the enclosure is in plastic wrap on 3 sides. All plants are live, I have 2 pothos, a ficus, and a grape ivy (the ivy safe for chams, not english ivy). Before she was in my basement which although it was finished had nighttime temps in the high 30s/low 40s. She is now in my bedroom where the night temps are much more suitable. Do you think putting a tub of water in there and letting it evaporate would work? I had sinus and nose surgery not too long ago and my doctor recommended that in place of a humidifier for myself, maybe it would be worth a shot? I originally got her the ivy to try to help get the humidity up and it worked for a little while but since the move it seems like it doesn't do much for the humidity. My chameleon loves it though so there's no way I'm getting rid of it lol. I have pictures of the humidifer attached to the original post but I know you said you have trouble seeing photos. It is currently blowing into the screen from outside (but is under the plastic, so it's getting through the plastic), maybe if I put it in the actual enclosure it would be better? Perhaps the screen is blocking some of the moist air? I'm just nervous about putting the humidifier inside because I don't want the cord on it to get wet, that would be a big yikes. What do you think I should try first? And thanks again for all the suggestions :)
 
Flick boy said:
Hi when I moved my girl into her first repti breeze from an exoterra it was a bit harder to get humidity right as Klyde says I used hydroponic plastic on the back and one side I mist 3 times a day 2 minutes each and have 17 plant's lol 😆 don't really get over 80 at night both sides and back should make a reasonable difference. Is the duck a cool mist humidifier
Click to expand...
It's an old humidifier a family friend lent me a while ago. What is hydroponic plastic/where is it available? And thank you!
 
Klyde O'Scope said:
If you compare the care sheets, veileds & panthers are pretty much the same with regard to temps & humidity.
Click to expand...
Daytime and basking temps, yes, but not really for daytime humidity levels. Those care sheets are not the most up-to-date out there, which is why most people on here refer people Bill Strand’s caresheets and care modules on the Chameleon Academy. Granted, while kept outside and when in their native habitats, chameleons experience different humidity levels, but on average, most inside keepers keep to 30-50% for veileds and 50-60%+ for panthers during the day. While Bill doesn’t know everything, care info is always changing, and lots of people keep their chameleons happy and healthy in lots of different ways, the general rule of thumb for keepers asking for help is during the day, it should be 30-50% for veileds and 50-60%+ for panthers.
 
Hydronic plastic is used in grow tents for plants the sheets i have is black one side and white the other I have the white facing into the enclosure to help reflect light .
 
ERKleRose said:
What species is your female? Also filling out the Ask For Help Form (linked in my signature since my computer won’t let me copy and paste it) will be greatly appreciated.
Click to expand...


It's about time I do another review anyway, I haven't done one since 3 days after I got her in August :)

Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - Veiled chameleon, female, unknown age but between 10-14 months approximately. I have been caring for her since August when she was 6-9months.
  • Handling - I unfortunately had to handle her a lot recently because she got a thermal burn that I had to put manuka cream on. I stopped about a week ago as it had formed a little coating on it and it started to look a little better. It was probably about a week straight of handling daily and I felt so bad -- she's scared of me now because she thinks I'm gonna put more goop on her.
  • Feeding - She eats dubia roaches primarily. I used to give more but I'm trying to give 4 at a time every other day. They are ~3/4in. The past few days I ran out between shipments so we had to get crickets from a local pet store, I also did 4 at a time. I gut load with chia and almond, and will sometimes put in kale or carrots as well.
  • Supplements - Rep-cal herpivite and zoo med calcium (no d3) powder. Daily with calcium and once every two weeks with vitamin.
  • Watering - Exo terra monsoon mister. 1 minute every 2 hours. I have only seen her drink once buther poops are hydrated white color so I'm guessing she drinks haha
  • Fecal Description - Bright white urate, brown other part. Sometimes white part does an ombre of cream/caramel to pure white from one end to the other. It might be the poop getting sprayed though and mixing colors. They will range in size sometimes, depending on how much she eats I guess. Never been tested for parasites.
  • History - Previous owner rescued her from a bad situation at a pet store, and had two other chameleons so was experienced in care. She didn't have proper linear uvb but I gave her one as soon as I got her, I also got her more live plants and decoration. She was super healthy the whole time prev. owner had her, never went to the vet but never showed signs of illness is what I understand. She has been to the vet once, she showed receptive colord but I thought it meant she was gravid and I freaked out that she would get egg bound. They checked her out, gave her an xray and let me know it was all fine, that she will get gravid and lay after her receptive period is over.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - 2x2x4 I think, zoo med screen cage. Came with her when I got her.
  • Lighting - Ti-84 linear uvb, normal house bulb in a flukers lamp for basking (had a prev. heat light that was too hot and burned her, so I fixed it by getting lower power normal house bulb). 12 hours on, 12 hours off. Lights out at around 8:30 at night and I won't turn on any bright lights in the room after that to make sure she can sleep.
  • Temperature - mid to high 60s on floor, 80s near basking spot. I measure them with a heat gun. At night it all goes to around 65.
  • Humidity - My humidity levels are my problem 😭 . Right now they are middle 30s to high 30s and I can't get them up no matter how hard I try. During the summer it was easier but as winter has set in it's very dry and I think it just sucks the humidity out of her enclosure. I am creating/maintaining with the live plants, misting, and sometimes I will use a humidifier to try to boost them, but it doesn't really work. I use a stick-on hygrometer located on the back wall in the middle of the enclosure.
  • Plants - yes, the only plants I have are live. 2 pothos, 1 ficus tree, and one grape ivy (not english ivy, which is bad for them).
  • Placement - The cage has had several moves but is now here to stay in my bedroom. Not a high traffic area, I'm the only one ever in there and although I've been on break for a few weeks I'm going back to school soon so she will have even more long stretches by herself. There are no fans in the room, there is one air vent probably 5-6ft away from the top of the cage on the ceiling. just under 6 ft from the top of the cage to the floor.
  • Location - Massachusetts, USA.

Current Problem - My humidity levels! Please help!


EDIT: misspellings, and she has a lay bin in there 14x12x13
EDIT #2: pictures of her setup are in the original post up top
 
ebarrychameleon said:
Thanks so much! Yeah, the enclosure is in plastic wrap on 3 sides.
Click to expand...
Is it sealed? I like the window insulation kits because (among other reasons) they come with double sticky tape, and you can seal them up tight.

Do you think putting a tub of water in there and letting it evaporate would work?
Click to expand...
There's no harm in trying. I tried it for my beardie w/ no luck at all. Live plants worked much better, and still help maintain it now—a year later.

As I said, I have no experience with humidifiers. I wasn't suggesting you get rid of it—just not use it for a while if it's exacerbating the humidity problem.

[The humidifier] is currently blowing into the screen from outside (but is under the plastic, so it's getting through the plastic), maybe if I put it in the actual enclosure it would be better?
Click to expand...
Blowing? If it's blowing with any force, I wonder if it may be blowing the humidity right out of the enclosure(?)

I would not put it inside the enclosure.

What do you think I should try first? And thanks again for all the suggestions :)
Click to expand...
When I used to counsel people on home energy, I always stressed conservation (plugging holes and insulating) first. No different here. A window insulation kit is $5 or $6. I bought one myself; I just haven't installed it yet. Seal that enclosure up tight except for that bottom front panel and the top.

Next, I would add more—and/or bushier—plants. This is what made the biggest improvement for me.

1610223576261.png
 
Klyde O'Scope said:
Is it sealed? I like the window insulation kits because (among other reasons) they come with double sticky tape, and you can seal them up tight.


There's no harm in trying. I tried it for my beardie w/ no luck at all. Live plants worked much better, and still help maintain it now—a year later.

As I said, I have no experience with humidifiers. I wasn't suggesting you get rid of it—just not use it for a while if it's exacerbating the humidity problem.


Blowing? If it's blowing with any force, I wonder if it may be blowing the humidity right out of the enclosure(?)

I would not put it inside the enclosure.


When I used to counsel people on home energy, I always stressed conservation (plugging holes and insulating) first. No different here. A window insulation kit is $5 or $6. I bought one myself; I just haven't installed it yet. Seal that enclosure up tight except for that bottom front panel and the top.

Next, I would add more—and/or bushier—plants. This is what made the biggest improvement for me.

View attachment 288342
Click to expand...
Thank you so much! I will see if I can get it all plugged up. By blowing I mean that it kind if spews out mist. I will try the water bucket and sealing it first and then see if another plant will help. Thanks again!!
 
Some changes are needed, my feedback will be in red. I’m also posting some care images and resource links at the bottom, as well.

It's about time I do another review anyway, I haven't done one since 3 days after I got her in August :)

Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - Veiled chameleon, female, unknown age but between 10-14 months approximately. I have been caring for her since August when she was 6-9months.
  • Handling - I unfortunately had to handle her a lot recently because she got a thermal burn that I had to put manuka cream on. I stopped about a week ago as it had formed a little coating on it and it started to look a little better. It was probably about a week straight of handling daily and I felt so bad -- she's scared of me now because she thinks I'm gonna put more goop on her.
  • Feeding - She eats dubia roaches primarily. I used to give more but I'm trying to give 4 at a time every other day. They are ~3/4in. The past few days I ran out between shipments so we had to get crickets from a local pet store, I also did 4 at a time. I gut load with chia and almond, and will sometimes put in kale or carrots as well. Dubias are great, but variety is always best! Your gutload needs improvement with variety, too. Depending on where she is on her egg laying cycle changes how much to feed her and when.
  • Supplements - Rep-cal herpivite and zoo med calcium (no d3) powder. Daily with calcium and once every two weeks with vitamin. So Rep-Cal Herptivite doesn’t have pre-formed Vitamin A. It is recommended as a precaution to either use a multivitamin with pre-formed Vitamin A, like Arcadia or Zoo Med Reptivite, twice a month or to put a drop of pre-formed Vitamin A from a gel capsule on a bug before feeding off one to two times a month. You also don’t have a D3 supplement, so I’d recommend buying the Zoo Med Reptivite with D3 and use it every two weeks. Then just use the Zoo Med ReptiCalcium without D3 on every feeding besides the Reptivite one. You wouldn’t be using the Rep-Cal Herptivite at all.
  • Watering - Exo terra monsoon mister. 1 minute every 2 hours. I have only seen her drink once buther poops are hydrated white color so I'm guessing she drinks haha Monsoons can be set for up to 2 minutes per misting, so I’d change it to that. Ideally, each misting should be a minimum of 2-5 minutes long. If you don’t change how often the mister goes off (since you’re having humidity problems), just make sure the enclosure and everything in it completely dries before the next misting.
  • Fecal Description - Bright white urate, brown other part. Sometimes white part does an ombre of cream/caramel to pure white from one end to the other. It might be the poop getting sprayed though and mixing colors. They will range in size sometimes, depending on how much she eats I guess. Never been tested for parasites. They sound good, but bringing a fresh fecal to an experienced chameleon vet to do a fecal float and test for parasites is always a good idea.
  • History - Previous owner rescued her from a bad situation at a pet store, and had two other chameleons so was experienced in care. She didn't have proper linear uvb but I gave her one as soon as I got her, I also got her more live plants and decoration. She was super healthy the whole time prev. owner had her, never went to the vet but never showed signs of illness is what I understand. She has been to the vet once, she showed receptive colord but I thought it meant she was gravid and I freaked out that she would get egg bound. They checked her out, gave her an xray and let me know it was all fine, that she will get gravid and lay after her receptive period is over. Does she have a lay bin? If so, is it a permanent part of her enclosure?

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - 2x2x4 I think, zoo med screen cage. Came with her when I got her. Awesome!
  • Lighting - Ti-84 linear uvb, normal house bulb in a flukers lamp for basking (had a prev. heat light that was too hot and burned her, so I fixed it by getting lower power normal house bulb). 12 hours on, 12 hours off. Lights out at around 8:30 at night and I won't turn on any bright lights in the room after that to make sure she can sleep. Do you mean her light fixture is T8? What strength is the bulb, and when was it last replaced?
  • Temperature - mid to high 60s on floor, 80s near basking spot. I measure them with a heat gun. At night it all goes to around 65. Her basking spot shouldn’t go over 80*F. Any higher and it could affect how many more eggs she’ll lay.
  • Humidity - My humidity levels are my problem 😭 . Right now they are middle 30s to high 30s and I can't get them up no matter how hard I try. During the summer it was easier but as winter has set in it's very dry and I think it just sucks the humidity out of her enclosure. I am creating/maintaining with the live plants, misting, and sometimes I will use a humidifier to try to boost them, but it doesn't really work. I use a stick-on hygrometer located on the back wall in the middle of the enclosure. Humidifiers shouldn’t be used during the day, just live plants, extra mistings, and wrapping the sides of her enclosure should be used to raise daytime humidity. Run the humidifier at night, with a tube coming from the humidifier to the top of her enclosure (the fog should roll down her cage), and make sure you clean it well and often. If she still needs extra humidity, you can cover the main front door and just have the service door and top of the cage screen. This way the chimney effect is in place, which helps circulate airflow to prevent stagnant air. High humidity with either hot or stagnant air is bad and usually ends up in a respiratory infection. You’ll want to have your daytime humidity between 30-50%, while your nighttime humidity levels can be up to 100%.
  • Plants - yes, the only plants I have are live. 2 pothos, 1 ficus tree, and one grape ivy (not english ivy, which is bad for them). Do you have fake plants or vines with fake leaves on them? The more live plants, the better! It helps raise and keep humidity, provides more drinking surfaces, and adds more coverage for your chameleon to hide in!
  • Placement - The cage has had several moves but is now here to stay in my bedroom. Not a high traffic area, I'm the only one ever in there and although I've been on break for a few weeks I'm going back to school soon so she will have even more long stretches by herself. There are no fans in the room, there is one air vent probably 5-6ft away from the top of the cage on the ceiling. just under 6 ft from the top of the cage to the floor. Sounds good, as long the air vent isn’t aimed to her cage.
  • Location - Massachusetts, USA.

Current Problem - My humidity levels! Please help!


EDIT: misspellings, and she has a lay bin in there 14x12x13
EDIT #2: pictures of her setup are in the original post up top

1610229041718.jpeg
1610229057398.jpeg


https://chameleonacademy.com/veiled-chameleon-care/
https://chameleonacademy.com/plants/
https://chameleonacademy.com/basics-hydration-for-chameleons/
 
ERKleRose said:
Some changes are needed, my feedback will be in red. I’m also posting some care images and resource links at the bottom, as well.

It's about time I do another review anyway, I haven't done one since 3 days after I got her in August :)

Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - Veiled chameleon, female, unknown age but between 10-14 months approximately. I have been caring for her since August when she was 6-9months.
  • Handling - I unfortunately had to handle her a lot recently because she got a thermal burn that I had to put manuka cream on. I stopped about a week ago as it had formed a little coating on it and it started to look a little better. It was probably about a week straight of handling daily and I felt so bad -- she's scared of me now because she thinks I'm gonna put more goop on her.
  • Feeding - She eats dubia roaches primarily. I used to give more but I'm trying to give 4 at a time every other day. They are ~3/4in. The past few days I ran out between shipments so we had to get crickets from a local pet store, I also did 4 at a time. I gut load with chia and almond, and will sometimes put in kale or carrots as well. Dubias are great, but variety is always best! Your gutload needs improvement with variety, too. Depending on where she is on her egg laying cycle changes how much to feed her and when.
  • Supplements - Rep-cal herpivite and zoo med calcium (no d3) powder. Daily with calcium and once every two weeks with vitamin. So Rep-Cal Herptivite doesn’t have pre-formed Vitamin A. It is recommended as a precaution to either use a multivitamin with pre-formed Vitamin A, like Arcadia or Zoo Med Reptivite, twice a month or to put a drop of pre-formed Vitamin A from a gel capsule on a bug before feeding off one to two times a month. You also don’t have a D3 supplement, so I’d recommend buying the Zoo Med Reptivite with D3 and use it every two weeks. Then just use the Zoo Med ReptiCalcium without D3 on every feeding besides the Reptivite one. You wouldn’t be using the Rep-Cal Herptivite at all.
  • Watering - Exo terra monsoon mister. 1 minute every 2 hours. I have only seen her drink once buther poops are hydrated white color so I'm guessing she drinks haha Monsoons can be set for up to 2 minutes per misting, so I’d change it to that. Ideally, each misting should be a minimum of 2-5 minutes long. If you don’t change how often the mister goes off (since you’re having humidity problems), just make sure the enclosure and everything in it completely dries before the next misting.
  • Fecal Description - Bright white urate, brown other part. Sometimes white part does an ombre of cream/caramel to pure white from one end to the other. It might be the poop getting sprayed though and mixing colors. They will range in size sometimes, depending on how much she eats I guess. Never been tested for parasites. They sound good, but bringing a fresh fecal to an experienced chameleon vet to do a fecal float and test for parasites is always a good idea.
  • History - Previous owner rescued her from a bad situation at a pet store, and had two other chameleons so was experienced in care. She didn't have proper linear uvb but I gave her one as soon as I got her, I also got her more live plants and decoration. She was super healthy the whole time prev. owner had her, never went to the vet but never showed signs of illness is what I understand. She has been to the vet once, she showed receptive colord but I thought it meant she was gravid and I freaked out that she would get egg bound. They checked her out, gave her an xray and let me know it was all fine, that she will get gravid and lay after her receptive period is over. Does she have a lay bin? If so, is it a permanent part of her enclosure?

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - 2x2x4 I think, zoo med screen cage. Came with her when I got her. Awesome!
  • Lighting - Ti-84 linear uvb, normal house bulb in a flukers lamp for basking (had a prev. heat light that was too hot and burned her, so I fixed it by getting lower power normal house bulb). 12 hours on, 12 hours off. Lights out at around 8:30 at night and I won't turn on any bright lights in the room after that to make sure she can sleep. Do you mean her light fixture is T8? What strength is the bulb, and when was it last replaced?
  • Temperature - mid to high 60s on floor, 80s near basking spot. I measure them with a heat gun. At night it all goes to around 65. Her basking spot shouldn’t go over 80*F. Any higher and it could affect how many more eggs she’ll lay.
  • Humidity - My humidity levels are my problem 😭 . Right now they are middle 30s to high 30s and I can't get them up no matter how hard I try. During the summer it was easier but as winter has set in it's very dry and I think it just sucks the humidity out of her enclosure. I am creating/maintaining with the live plants, misting, and sometimes I will use a humidifier to try to boost them, but it doesn't really work. I use a stick-on hygrometer located on the back wall in the middle of the enclosure. Humidifiers shouldn’t be used during the day, just live plants, extra mistings, and wrapping the sides of her enclosure should be used to raise daytime humidity. Run the humidifier at night, with a tube coming from the humidifier to the top of her enclosure (the fog should roll down her cage), and make sure you clean it well and often. If she still needs extra humidity, you can cover the main front door and just have the service door and top of the cage screen. This way the chimney effect is in place, which helps circulate airflow to prevent stagnant air. High humidity with either hot or stagnant air is bad and usually ends up in a respiratory infection. You’ll want to have your daytime humidity between 30-50%, while your nighttime humidity levels can be up to 100%.
  • Plants - yes, the only plants I have are live. 2 pothos, 1 ficus tree, and one grape ivy (not english ivy, which is bad for them). Do you have fake plants or vines with fake leaves on them? The more live plants, the better! It helps raise and keep humidity, provides more drinking surfaces, and adds more coverage for your chameleon to hide in!
  • Placement - The cage has had several moves but is now here to stay in my bedroom. Not a high traffic area, I'm the only one ever in there and although I've been on break for a few weeks I'm going back to school soon so she will have even more long stretches by herself. There are no fans in the room, there is one air vent probably 5-6ft away from the top of the cage on the ceiling. just under 6 ft from the top of the cage to the floor. Sounds good, as long the air vent isn’t aimed to her cage.
  • Location - Massachusetts, USA.

Current Problem - My humidity levels! Please help!


EDIT: misspellings, and she has a lay bin in there 14x12x13
EDIT #2: pictures of her setup are in the original post up top

View attachment 288348View attachment 288349

https://chameleonacademy.com/veiled-chameleon-care/
https://chameleonacademy.com/plants/
https://chameleonacademy.com/basics-hydration-for-chameleons/
Click to expand...

Sorry, I said pro-formed on the supplement part, I’ve gone back and changed to say pre-formed in the correct areas
 
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