How old?

I got my female chameleon 4 1/2 months ago from petco, I’m not sure how old she was when I got her, wondering if anyone can tell how old she is? One photo is 2 weeks after I got her and one is from today
 

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Here fill this out in detail. Copy paste it into your response. When you get done I will tag female Veiled keepers to help you. But I already see that the UVB lighting needs to be upgraded for her.

Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.
Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?
Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:
  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
 
Here fill this out in detail. Copy paste it into your response. When you get done I will tag female Veiled keepers to help you. But I already see that the UVB lighting needs to be upgraded for her.

Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - Veiled, female, 6-8 months of age, been in my care for 4 1/2 months.
  • Handling - I rarely ever handle her, she doesn’t like it and hisses and bites, so I choose to just let her be.
  • Feeding - I feed her crickets and mealworms/super worms and occasionally some greens, crickets are gutloaded with fruit/vegetables. She gets 5-8 a day.
  • Supplements - Brands of both calcium and vitamins is ZooMed, 2-3 times a week.
  • Watering - I use a spray bottle to mist her enclosure 2-3 times a day, usually for a few minutes each time. When I first got her I would see her drinking but now I don’t.
  • Fecal Description - It looks normal from what I’ve read about, it’s just brown/white and it is not runny. She has never been tested for parasites.
  • History - The only history I have is that she came from petco.
Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Screen, 3 feet tall, 2 feet wide, 2 feet deep.
  • Lighting - Brand is ZooMed, Reptisun UVB, Daylight Blue UVA. 12 hours on, 12 hours off.
  • Temperature - Floor is 70°, Middle is 75°, Basking is 80°, overnight temp is 65-70°, I measure it by a temperature gauge.
  • Humidity - I don’t have a humidity gauge.
  • Plants - No live plants
  • Placement - It is located in a bedroom, not near and fans or vents, traffic is not high maybe medium. The top of the cage is about 7 feet from the floor.
  • Location - USA, Northern California
Current Problem - She has been pacing the cage, not really eating and recently got orange markings. I put a lay bin in the cage and she hasn’t started digging.

--------------

Please Note:
  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
 
@femalechameleonmilo please fill out the help form posted above so we can get you on the right track. Since females lay infertile eggs all aspects of your husbandry need to be reviewed and changed before she becomes gravid.
 
@femalechameleonmilo please fill out the help form posted above so we can get you on the right track. Since females lay infertile eggs all aspects of your husbandry need to be reviewed and changed before she becomes gravid.
Here it is they did it in the reply rather then copy pasting.
@femalechameleonmilo

Chameleon Info:

  • Your Chameleon - Veiled, female, 6-8 months of age, been in my care for 4 1/2 months.
  • Handling - I rarely ever handle her, she doesn’t like it and hisses and bites, so I choose to just let her be.
  • Feeding - I feed her crickets and mealworms/super worms and occasionally some greens, crickets are gutloaded with fruit/vegetables. She gets 5-8 a day.
  • Supplements - Brands of both calcium and vitamins is ZooMed, 2-3 times a week.
  • Watering - I use a spray bottle to mist her enclosure 2-3 times a day, usually for a few minutes each time. When I first got her I would see her drinking but now I don’t.
  • Fecal Description - It looks normal from what I’ve read about, it’s just brown/white and it is not runny. She has never been tested for parasites.
  • History - The only history I have is that she came from petco.
Cage Info:

  • Cage Type - Screen, 3 feet tall, 2 feet wide, 2 feet deep.
  • Lighting - Brand is ZooMed, Reptisun UVB, Daylight Blue UVA. 12 hours on, 12 hours off.
  • Temperature - Floor is 70°, Middle is 75°, Basking is 80°, overnight temp is 65-70°, I measure it by a temperature gauge.
  • Humidity - I don’t have a humidity gauge.
  • Plants - No live plants
  • Placement - It is located in a bedroom, not near and fans or vents, traffic is not high maybe medium. The top of the cage is about 7 feet from the floor.
  • Location - USA, Northern California
Current Problem - She has been pacing the cage, not really eating and recently got orange markings. I put a lay bin in the cage and she hasn’t started digging.

--------------

Please Note:

  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
 
Here it is they did it in the reply rather then copy pasting.
@femalechameleonmilo

Chameleon Info:

  • Your Chameleon - Veiled, female, 6-8 months of age, been in my care for 4 1/2 months.
  • Handling - I rarely ever handle her, she doesn’t like it and hisses and bites, so I choose to just let her be.
  • Feeding - I feed her crickets and mealworms/super worms and occasionally some greens, crickets are gutloaded with fruit/vegetables. She gets 5-8 a day.
  • Supplements - Brands of both calcium and vitamins is ZooMed, 2-3 times a week.
  • Watering - I use a spray bottle to mist her enclosure 2-3 times a day, usually for a few minutes each time. When I first got her I would see her drinking but now I don’t.
  • Fecal Description - It looks normal from what I’ve read about, it’s just brown/white and it is not runny. She has never been tested for parasites.
  • History - The only history I have is that she came from petco.
Cage Info:

  • Cage Type - Screen, 3 feet tall, 2 feet wide, 2 feet deep.
  • Lighting - Brand is ZooMed, Reptisun UVB, Daylight Blue UVA. 12 hours on, 12 hours off.
  • Temperature - Floor is 70°, Middle is 75°, Basking is 80°, overnight temp is 65-70°, I measure it by a temperature gauge.
  • Humidity - I don’t have a humidity gauge.
  • Plants - No live plants
  • Placement - It is located in a bedroom, not near and fans or vents, traffic is not high maybe medium. The top of the cage is about 7 feet from the floor.
  • Location - USA, Northern California
Current Problem - She has been pacing the cage, not really eating and recently got orange markings. I put a lay bin in the cage and she hasn’t started digging.

--------------

Please Note:

  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
Whoops! Missed it, thank you! 😘
I’ll log on to my computer and work on this for the OP. 😊
 
Please see my responses in blue. I also put links and pics below for references.

Chameleon Info:

  • Your Chameleon - Veiled, female, 6-8 months of age, been in my care for 4 1/2 months. She is very beautiful and I would say she looks closer to 8 months or older.
  • Handling - I rarely ever handle her, she doesn’t like it and hisses and bites, so I choose to just let her be. I would see about building some trust. There may be a point where you have to take her to the vet and that will involve handling her.
  • Feeding - I feed her crickets and mealworms/super worms and occasionally some greens, crickets are gutloaded with fruit/vegetables. She gets 5-8 a day. Feeding schedule should eventually be 3-4 feeders 3 times a week. I would start cutting back feeding 3-4 to every other day for a couple weeks and then switch to every two days. Crickets are good. I would cut out mealworms and stick with super worms only as a treat. Once a week or one every two weeks. They are on the fattier side which is not bad just needs to be fed in moderation. Variety is better, so if you can get some roaches or silk worms in there it would benefit her.
  • Supplements - Brands of both calcium and vitamins is ZooMed, 2-3 times a week. Please post a pic of the supplements so I can look at them. Plain phosphorus free calcium every feeding. Calcium with D3 one day twice a month and multivitamin one day twice a month. These you can alternate weeks, pick a day like Saturday.
  • Watering - I use a spray bottle to mist her enclosure 2-3 times a day, usually for a few minutes each time. When I first got her I would see her drinking but now I don’t. They tend to be shy drinkers. I would look into natural hydration if you haven't already.
  • Fecal Description - It looks normal from what I’ve read about, it’s just brown/white and it is not runny. She has never been tested for parasites. Since you feed crickets I would get a fecal run since they typically are the culprit for transferring parasites to chameleons.
  • History - The only history I have is that she came from petco.
Cage Info:

  • Cage Type - Screen, 3 feet tall, 2 feet wide, 2 feet deep. I would consider upgrading to a 2x2x4, have a laybin will take up some space and more room is better in my opinion.
  • Lighting - Brand is ZooMed, Reptisun UVB, Daylight Blue UVA. 12 hours on, 12 hours off. This needs to be upgraded ASAP. Coil bulbs do not disperse UVB well and this eventually can lead to MBD. Look into getting a T5HO 5.0 linear light. You can use a 60 watt incandescent light bulb for basking.
  • Temperature - Floor is 70°, Middle is 75°, Basking is 80°, overnight temp is 65-70°, I measure it by a temperature gauge. Is this a digital or analog gauge? Please post pics. How are you measuring temps at basking? Ambient and basking temps are different. Basking no higher than 80 and over night temps are good. They don't need heat at night and can take temps down in the 50s.
  • Humidity - I don’t have a humidity gauge. You can get a combo digital temp/humidity gauge.
  • Plants - No live plants Veiled's eat their plants and females more than males. Live plants are a necessity to keep your cham from eating the fake ones. Fake ones can increase the risk of impaction if they try to eat them. Live plants also aid in maintaining humidity as well.
  • Placement - It is located in a bedroom, not near and fans or vents, traffic is not high maybe medium. The top of the cage is about 7 feet from the floor. This will be important when she goes to lay eggs eventually. They need a lot of privacy during this time or they will not feel comfortable laying the eggs. This can cause them to become egg bound.
  • Location - USA, Northern California
Current Problem - She has been pacing the cage, not really eating and recently got orange markings. I put a lay bin in the cage and she hasn’t started digging. Is this the first time since you have had her that she is pacing the cage? She may be receptive vs gravid and ready to lay. Receptive periods just from my experience last 3-4 weeks. Once they stop pacing/not receptive it can take a couple of months for them to lay eggs. If you are able to handle her, I would weigh her every week. This will help you determine egg production. Also, some members take their girls to the vet for X-rays to see if there are eggs and to what stage. Last but not least how big is the laybin and what substrate did you put in it? Play sand or 50/50 soil and play sand is preferred. i will post more pics below.

Check out Neptune the Chameleon channel.
Also, https://chameleonacademy.com


https://zoomed.com/reptisun-5-0-uvb-t5-ho-high-output-linear-lamp/
https://www.pangeareptile.com/store/arcadia-prot5-uvb-kit.html
https://www.amazon.com/ThermoPro-TP...ocphy=9011818&hvtargid=pla-349471987885&psc=1
https://www.chameleonforums.com/threads/show-me-your-cham-and-enclosure.175445/
 

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Please see my responses in blue. I also put links and pics below for references.

Chameleon Info:

  • Your Chameleon - Veiled, female, 6-8 months of age, been in my care for 4 1/2 months. She is very beautiful and I would say she looks closer to 8 months or older.
  • Handling - I rarely ever handle her, she doesn’t like it and hisses and bites, so I choose to just let her be. I would see about building some trust. There may be a point where you have to take her to the vet and that will involve handling her.
  • Feeding - I feed her crickets and mealworms/super worms and occasionally some greens, crickets are gutloaded with fruit/vegetables. She gets 5-8 a day. Feeding schedule should eventually be 3-4 feeders 3 times a week. I would start cutting back feeding 3-4 to every other day for a couple weeks and then switch to every two days. Crickets are good. I would cut out mealworms and stick with super worms only as a treat. Once a week or one every two weeks. They are on the fattier side which is not bad just needs to be fed in moderation. Variety is better, so if you can get some roaches or silk worms in there it would benefit her.
  • Supplements - Brands of both calcium and vitamins is ZooMed, 2-3 times a week. Please post a pic of the supplements so I can look at them. Plain phosphorus free calcium every feeding. Calcium with D3 one day twice a month and multivitamin one day twice a month. These you can alternate weeks, pick a day like Saturday.
  • Watering - I use a spray bottle to mist her enclosure 2-3 times a day, usually for a few minutes each time. When I first got her I would see her drinking but now I don’t. They tend to be shy drinkers. I would look into natural hydration if you haven't already.
  • Fecal Description - It looks normal from what I’ve read about, it’s just brown/white and it is not runny. She has never been tested for parasites. Since you feed crickets I would get a fecal run since they typically are the culprit for transferring parasites to chameleons.
  • History - The only history I have is that she came from petco.
Cage Info:

  • Cage Type - Screen, 3 feet tall, 2 feet wide, 2 feet deep. I would consider upgrading to a 2x2x4, have a laybin will take up some space and more room is better in my opinion.
  • Lighting - Brand is ZooMed, Reptisun UVB, Daylight Blue UVA. 12 hours on, 12 hours off. This needs to be upgraded ASAP. Coil bulbs do not disperse UVB well and this eventually can lead to MBD. Look into getting a T5HO 5.0 linear light. You can use a 60 watt incandescent light bulb for basking.
  • Temperature - Floor is 70°, Middle is 75°, Basking is 80°, overnight temp is 65-70°, I measure it by a temperature gauge. Is this a digital or analog gauge? Please post pics. How are you measuring temps at basking? Ambient and basking temps are different. Basking no higher than 80 and over night temps are good. They don't need heat at night and can take temps down in the 50s.
  • Humidity - I don’t have a humidity gauge. You can get a combo digital temp/humidity gauge.
  • Plants - No live plants Veiled's eat their plants and females more than males. Live plants are a necessity to keep your cham from eating the fake ones. Fake ones can increase the risk of impaction if they try to eat them. Live plants also aid in maintaining humidity as well.
  • Placement - It is located in a bedroom, not near and fans or vents, traffic is not high maybe medium. The top of the cage is about 7 feet from the floor. This will be important when she goes to lay eggs eventually. They need a lot of privacy during this time or they will not feel comfortable laying the eggs. This can cause them to become egg bound.
  • Location - USA, Northern California
Current Problem - She has been pacing the cage, not really eating and recently got orange markings. I put a lay bin in the cage and she hasn’t started digging. Is this the first time since you have had her that she is pacing the cage? She may be receptive vs gravid and ready to lay. Receptive periods just from my experience last 3-4 weeks. Once they stop pacing/not receptive it can take a couple of months for them to lay eggs. If you are able to handle her, I would weigh her every week. This will help you determine egg production. Also, some members take their girls to the vet for X-rays to see if there are eggs and to what stage. Last but not least how big is the laybin and what substrate did you put in it? Play sand or 50/50 soil and play sand is preferred. i will post more pics below.

Check out Neptune the Chameleon channel.
Also, https://chameleonacademy.com


https://zoomed.com/reptisun-5-0-uvb-t5-ho-high-output-linear-lamp/
https://www.pangeareptile.com/store/arcadia-prot5-uvb-kit.html
https://www.amazon.com/ThermoPro-TP...ocphy=9011818&hvtargid=pla-349471987885&psc=1
https://www.chameleonforums.com/threads/show-me-your-cham-and-enclosure.175445/

I will work on building trust and cutting down her feeding, the temp gauge is actually a digital thermometer with a wire that goes into the cage, I will add a photo. This is the first time she has been pacing and not eating. Her lay bin is about 1 foot deep with 6-8 inches of soil/coconut fiber and almost covers the whole bottom of the cage. I added a photo of her today, does her stomach look big because she’s just not stretched out?
 

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With those supplements, use the calcium without D3 every feeding and the Reptivite with D3 once every two weeks. No calcium with D3 is needed.
 
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