How long can a chameleon go without eating

[Bmjo]

im sorry ik im not supposed to be making a lot of threads but i am very worried my chameleon ate a hornworm about 4 days ago and he’s looking quite thin so i fed him some collard greens, today he was looking at crickets and shot his toungue and missed, he hasn’t eaten any his eyes just can’t seem to lock on

 

[renzo0684]

Can you fill out the "how to ask for help" form I can't link it right now sorry. Also can. You post a picture of your chameleon?

 

[Bmjo]

Can you fill out the "how to ask for help" form I can't link it right now sorry. Also can. You post a picture of your chameleon?

 

[jamest0o0]

You need to fill out the help form stickied at the top of the health clinic section. Definitely very thin.

 

[renzo0684]

Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
• Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
• Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
• Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
• Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
• Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
• History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
• Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
• Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
• Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
• Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
• Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
• Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:

1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
2. Photos can be very helpful.

 

[Syreptyon]

Did you ever take him to the vet? This chameleon has not been doing well for months and it's worrisome that things aren't getting better.

 

[Bmjo]

Did you ever take him to the vet? This chameleon has not been doing well for months and it's worrisome that things aren't getting better.

Yes i took him to the vet they said there’s nothing wrong with him no eye infection just some shed got stuck in the eye and his leg looks like it was broke when he was younger and he told me i was doing everything right just try to fatten him up

 

[Bmjo]

Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon - veiled,male,7 months old,had him for 3 months
• Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon? Every day
• Feeding - What are you feeding your cham?hornworms,cricketsWhat amount?1 hornworm or 8-10 medium crickets What is the schedule?hornworm every 2-3 days if that’s what I’m feeding,crickets every day How are you gut-loading your feeders?collard greens carrots lettuce
• Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?all rep-cal products, calcium every feeding, with d3 twice a month same with vitamins
• Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use?misting,dripper How often and how long to you mist?5-6 times a day about 30 seconds Do you see your chameleon drinking?rarely
• Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?brown with white and a little bit of orange, hasn’t been tested for parasites
• History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

2 eye problems since I’ve had him
Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?screen 16x16x30
• Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?100 watt daylight bulb 5.0 18 inch uvb, both on about 12 hours a day
• Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)about 87 basking,around the tank doesn’t get lower than 75?Lowest overnight temp?70 How do you measure these temps? Thermometer with probe
• Humidity - What are your humidity levels?40%-60% How are you creating and maintaining these levels? Humidifier, misting What do you use to measure humidity?gauge
• Plants - Are you using live plants?no If so, what kind?
• Placement - Where is your cage located?on a rack Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas?sort of At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?7 feet
• Location - Where are you geographically located?michigan

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about
Needing to fatten him up

 

[kinyonga]

This is what I said in another thread and I'm saying it again... you need to get your husbandry/care right for him or you're going to lose him. You need to get his eye issues fixed. They don't keep giving you more chances for long.

He needs not to be handled a lot (stresses them out if you force it on them)...he needs proper lighting (a long 5.0 UVB tube light and an incandescent household white light bulb of a wattage to produce a basking temperature of 85 F or slightly higher..no lights at night...no glass or plastic between the UVB light and him) and proper temperatures (basking as I said...85 F....rest of the cage in the mid to high 70's during the day and cooler at night)...and hydration (mister and dripper both run long enough to get him drinking) and supplements (phosphorus-free calcium at almost every feeding, phosphorus-free calcium/D3 twice a month and vitamins twice a month) and well fed/gutloaded insects crickets, superworms, roaches, locusts given my usual list (of greens, veggies and a small amt of fruit), etc.

If the temperatures are right and he's drinking and the supplements are right and the feeding/gutloading are right and he didn't ingest anything he shouldn't have then it pretty much leaves it that he's sick...and you need to find out what's going on.

Is he pooping? Is he drinking? Is he able to sit close enough to the basking light that it's in the mid 80's where he's sitting? Is he in the cage all day? Did he take the collard greens willingly? The hornworms willingly? Is he not being handled much?

Regarding making threads....just add on to one of the many threads you've already started when tour chameleon is still having the same problems ...I'm not going to re read your threads anymore looking for a little bit of info in one and a little in the other. The idea of keeping it in one thread is so we have all the information about the situation in one place so we don't have to waste time reading all those threads. We want to help but you need to help us so we can.

Have you tried hand feeding him cruckets.? Put one head first between his teeth so he'll bite it when his mouth is opening and shutting while he's drinking and tell us if he actually eats it or spits it out.

 

[Bmjo]

This is what I said in another thread and I'm saying it again... you need to get your husbandry/care right for him or you're going to lose him. You need to get his eye issues fixed. They don't keep giving you more chances for long.

He needs not to be handled a lot (stresses them out if you force it on them)...he needs proper lighting (a long 5.0 UVB tube light and an incandescent household white light bulb of a wattage to produce a basking temperature of 85 F or slightly higher..no lights at night...no glass or plastic between the UVB light and him) and proper temperatures (basking as I said...85 F....rest of the cage in the mid to high 70's during the day and cooler at night)...and hydration (mister and dripper both run long enough to get him drinking) and supplements (phosphorus-free calcium at almost every feeding, phosphorus-free calcium/D3 twice a month and vitamins twice a month) and well fed/gutloaded insects crickets, superworms, roaches, locusts given my usual list (of greens, veggies and a small amt of fruit), etc.

If the temperatures are right and he's drinking and the supplements are right and the feeding/gutloading are right and he didn't ingest anything he shouldn't have then it pretty much leaves it that he's sick...and you need to find out what's going on.

Is he pooping? Is he drinking? Is he able to sit close enough to the basking light that it's in the mid 80's where he's sitting? Is he in the cage all day? Did he take the collard greens willingly? The hornworms willingly? Is he not being handled much?

Regarding making threads....just add on to one of the many threads you've already started when tour chameleon is still having the same problems ...I'm not going to re read your threads anymore looking for a little bit of info in one and a little in the other. The idea of keeping it in one thread is so we have all the information about the situation in one place so we don't have to waste time reading all those threads. We want to help but you need to help us so we can.

Have you tried hand feeding him cruckets.? Put one head first between his teeth so he'll bite it when his mouth is opening and shutting while he's drinking and tell us if he actually eats it or spits it out.

He shot his toungue but it didn’t reach he took the collard greens willingly he stuck his toungue out and took it in. And when i tried cup feeding him like i normally do his eyes were going crazy kind of like he couldn’t just focus on one

 

[kinyonga]

Since he can't seem to focus then you need to hand feed him the way I suggested or try touching the insect on the end if his lips some knows the insect is there. If you can solve the not eating issue by doing this at least he may survive until you get the eye issue solved. Don't force insects into his mouth yet though. I hope he won't get to that point.

 

[renzo0684]

This is what I said in another thread and I'm saying it again... you need to get your husbandry/care right for him or you're going to lose him. You need to get his eye issues fixed. They don't keep giving you more chances for long.

He needs not to be handled a lot (stresses them out if you force it on them)...he needs proper lighting (a long 5.0 UVB tube light and an incandescent household white light bulb of a wattage to produce a basking temperature of 85 F or slightly higher..no lights at night...no glass or plastic between the UVB light and him) and proper temperatures (basking as I said...85 F....rest of the cage in the mid to high 70's during the day and cooler at night)...and hydration (mister and dripper both run long enough to get him drinking) and supplements (phosphorus-free calcium at almost every feeding, phosphorus-free calcium/D3 twice a month and vitamins twice a month) and well fed/gutloaded insects crickets, superworms, roaches, locusts given my usual list (of greens, veggies and a small amt of fruit), etc.

If the temperatures are right and he's drinking and the supplements are right and the feeding/gutloading are right and he didn't ingest anything he shouldn't have then it pretty much leaves it that he's sick...and you need to find out what's going on.

Is he pooping? Is he drinking? Is he able to sit close enough to the basking light that it's in the mid 80's where he's sitting? Is he in the cage all day? Did he take the collard greens willingly? The hornworms willingly? Is he not being handled much?

Regarding making threads....just add on to one of the many threads you've already started when tour chameleon is still having the same problems ...I'm not going to re read your threads anymore looking for a little bit of info in one and a little in the other. The idea of keeping it in one thread is so we have all the information about the situation in one place so we don't have to waste time reading all those threads. We want to help but you need to help us so we can.

Have you tried hand feeding him cruckets.? Put one head first between his teeth so he'll bite it when his mouth is opening and shutting while he's drinking and tell us if he actually eats it or spits it out.

With a veiled do a 10.0 reptisun it well do a lot better than a 5.0. 5.0 work's but 10.0 is better

 

[Kristen99]

One thing I did notice in your husbandry is that you are misting 5-6 times a day for 30 seconds you need to be misting longer chameleons need to be stimulated into drinking and that just isn't long enough I would say 3-4 times a day for 3-4 mins min. And to keep the humidity up try to add some sheflarra or pothos they enjoy the live plants. Did you get a fecal test done at the vet to check for parisites? Definitely change out that uvb asap this could play a part in the eye issue..can you post a photo of the enclosure.

 

[Bmjo]

One thing I did notice in your husbandry is that you are misting 5-6 times a day for 30 seconds you need to be misting longer chameleons need to be stimulated into drinking and that just isn't long enough I would say 3-4 times a day for 3-4 mins min. And to keep the humidity up try to add some sheflarra or pothos they enjoy the live plants. Did you get a fecal test done at the vet to check for parisites? Definitely change out that uvb asap this could play a part in the eye issue..can you post a photo of the enclosure.

 

[Bmjo]

One thing I did notice in your husbandry is that you are misting 5-6 times a day for 30 seconds you need to be misting longer chameleons need to be stimulated into drinking and that just isn't long enough I would say 3-4 times a day for 3-4 mins min. And to keep the humidity up try to add some sheflarra or pothos they enjoy the live plants. Did you get a fecal test done at the vet to check for parisites? Definitely change out that uvb asap this could play a part in the eye issue..can you post a photo of the enclosure.

The vet said that there was no need for one he just can’t eat because of the shed stuck in his eyes

 

[Kristen99]

I'm sorry I mean a picture of the full enclosure. For 7 months old he is vary small.. that would be why I would suggest to get a fecal done how is he eating 8-10 crickets every day if your post is about him not eating.. I understand he has had an eye issue for some time this is why I would suggest to change out the uvb to a linner one. The misting is too short like I said 30 sec is not nearly enough time to be misting 3-4 mins minimum 4 times a day this will give him a change to clean his eye.

 

[Syreptyon]

Does this vet have experience with chameleons? Based on the amount of time these problems have persisted, I find it extremely difficult to believe stuck shed is the real problem here. Also, a fecal is never a bad idea just in case

 

[Fireborn]

Not at veterinarians are equal when it comes to chameleons. He may not have the experience or expertise to properly diagnose your chameleon.

 

[Bmjo]

I'm sorry I mean a picture of the full enclosure. For 7 months old he is vary small.. that would be why I would suggest to get a fecal done how is he eating 8-10 crickets every day if your post is about him not eating.. I understand he has had an eye issue for some time this is why I would suggest to change out the uvb to a linner one. The misting is too short like I said 30 sec is not nearly enough time to be misting 3-4 mins minimum 4 times a day this will give him a change to clean his eye.

He hasn’t been eating 8-10 crickets he’s been eating one hornworm ever 2 days cause he can’t see the vet said there was no need for a fecal test

 

[Bmjo]

Does this vet have experience with chameleons? Based on the amount of time these problems have persisted, I find it extremely difficult to believe stuck shed is the real problem here. Also, a fecal is never a bad idea just in case

He took this thing and looked in his eyes and said after his eyes get better he should be fine and it was an exotic vet