she is very aggressive and doesn't like when I get near her alot more than normal recently so I can't tell if there's something wrong and i am just really worried, she has been trying to escape alot recently and falls alot cuase of it and I'm really worried.
Hey i have had my chameleon for 4 months now pretty psoitive its a girl does this look like a broken leg or sign of MBD??
- Thread starter Payten33
- Start date
Hi there welcome to the forum. Can you please take pictures of your entire enclosure lights down and more of the chameleon?
Ok so I do see some issues with the enclosure. I am going to give you this wonderful link to a husbandry program. Read through it all and you will understand better what she needs when your done I would like you to please fill out the form below will detail. This will allow us to get a better idea of where we can guide you. and if you get the chance take pics of her if she cooperates.
https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/
Chameleon Info:
Cage Info:
Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.
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Please Note:
- Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
- Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
- Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
- Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
- Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
- Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
- History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.
Cage Info:
- Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
- Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
- Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
- Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
- Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
- Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
- Location - Where are you geographically located?
Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.
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Please Note:
- The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
- Photos can be very helpful.
my chameleon is a female vieled chameleon who is about 5-6 months old and I've had her for about 4 months. I have never handled her before, she always hisses at me. She eats crickets,meal worms and wax worms sometime. I have 3 supplements 2 I use once a month which is my D3 and multivitamin and the other one without d3 I use every feeding I feed her 6-9 crickets a day becuase she still is a baby. I have a 4x2x2 screen cage with a linear reptisun t5 10.0 and a 100 watt heat bulb which at the bottom keeps it about 70 and 92 at the prime basking spot and I use a temp gun to check it. I don't have anything to measure humidity. And her cage is by my closet on the floor. I'm scared she might have. A broken leg or showing signs of MBD. And I use live plants a 2 types of Dracana but thats all.
And I live in north carolina
And I live in north carolina
I see no visible signs of MBD.
However it is way too hot for her at basking. You want to get a lower wattage bulb. Try a 60 watt. It should be no hotter then 80 at basking for her. You will need to start reducing her food intake as well. Females lay infertile eggs and the amount of food and the temps they have contribute to them having much larger clutches and impact their health greatly.
Putting the enclosure up on a table will help her feel safer. Since they are arboreal reptiles they need the height to feel safe.
I am going to tag some other members that have females to help you with your husbandry for her and to go over anything additional with you. But please read through that husbandry program link I gave you. This will help you greatly understand what she needs and how to provide it.
@MissSkittles @AmandaS
Thank you so much!!I see no visible signs of MBD.
However it is way too hot for her at basking. You want to get a lower wattage bulb. Try a 60 watt. It should be no hotter then 80 at basking for her. You will need to start reducing her food intake as well. Females lay infertile eggs and the amount of food and the temps they have contribute to them having much larger clutches and impact their health greatly.
Putting the enclosure up on a table will help her feel safer. Since they are arboreal reptiles they need the height to feel safe.
I am going to tag some other members that have females to help you with your husbandry for her and to go over anything additional with you. But please read through that husbandry program link I gave you. This will help you greatly understand what she needs and how to provide it.
@MissSkittles @AmandaS
Ok with this one you want her branch below the UVB to be about 5-7 inches below the fixture... This will give an appropriate UVB range for her. Ideally I would upgrade the UVB to a T5Ho fixture with a 5.0 bulb and I would have this with a 9 inch distance to basking for the correct uvb range.
MissSkittles
Chameleon Enthusiast
Hi and welcome! So Beman gave you some great advice about uvb lighting and temps. Both are important more than ever when it comes to females as whether mated or not, they will lay eggs. At your lady’s age, it will be happening sooner than later.
You want the temps at basking to be no higher than 80 which will help slow metabolism a bit. Along with this, you need to limit how much and how often she eats. Attaching feeder and gutloading sheets for you. *gutloading sheet is really more of what you should be feeding your buggies regularly. At this age, your lady should be getting maybe 3-4 feeders every other day.
Proper supplements are also essential. Every feeding should be dusted with phosphorus free calcium without D3. One feeding every 2 weeks you’ll dust with calcium with D3 and on the opposite weeks, you’ll dust one feeding with a multivitamin. So every week there’s one feeding with either D3 or multivitamin.
You will need to prepare a lay bin. This is simply a bin that is at least 10x10x10”. Drill a few tiny holes in the bottom for drainage and fill to around 6-8” deep with washed play sand. Keep it moist enough so a tunnel can be made without it collapsing. I always suggest making it a permanent part of the enclosure rather than guessing when it’s needed.
It doesn’t look like she’s gotten her big girl colors yet. One day you’ll notice she’s starting to show her pretty colors and patterns. Soon after she’ll become very restless. This is the receptive period. She is looking for a man. Anywhere from a few weeks after that, she’ll be laying eggs. Her colors may or may not change. She will have gotten quite plump and even lumpy looking. Once she starts digging in her bin, cover the visible sides and give her absolute privacy. I poke holes in my sheet so I can monitor. Once she’s done, she’ll have covered up her hole and be sitting on her basking branch looking dirty and thin. Feed her well for a few days and then cut back feedings to 3 feeders 3 days a week.
So Beman gave you some great advice about uvb lighting and temps. Both are important more than ever when it comes to females as whether mated or not, they will lay eggs. At your lady’s age, it will be happening sooner than later.You want the temps at basking to be no higher than 80 which will help slow metabolism a bit. Along with this, you need to limit how much and how often she eats. Attaching feeder and gutloading sheets for you. *gutloading sheet is really more of what you should be feeding your buggies regularly. At this age, your lady should be getting maybe 3-4 feeders every other day.
Proper supplements are also essential. Every feeding should be dusted with phosphorus free calcium without D3. One feeding every 2 weeks you’ll dust with calcium with D3 and on the opposite weeks, you’ll dust one feeding with a multivitamin. So every week there’s one feeding with either D3 or multivitamin.
You will need to prepare a lay bin. This is simply a bin that is at least 10x10x10”. Drill a few tiny holes in the bottom for drainage and fill to around 6-8” deep with washed play sand. Keep it moist enough so a tunnel can be made without it collapsing. I always suggest making it a permanent part of the enclosure rather than guessing when it’s needed.
It doesn’t look like she’s gotten her big girl colors yet. One day you’ll notice she’s starting to show her pretty colors and patterns. Soon after she’ll become very restless. This is the receptive period. She is looking for a man. Anywhere from a few weeks after that, she’ll be laying eggs. Her colors may or may not change. She will have gotten quite plump and even lumpy looking. Once she starts digging in her bin, cover the visible sides and give her absolute privacy. I poke holes in my sheet so I can monitor. Once she’s done, she’ll have covered up her hole and be sitting on her basking branch looking dirty and thin. Feed her well for a few days and then cut back feedings to 3 feeders 3 days a week.
AmandaS
Retired Moderator
Awe, you beat me to it. LolHi and welcome!
You want the temps at basking to be no higher than 80 which will help slow metabolism a bit. Along with this, you need to limit how much and how often she eats. Attaching feeder and gutloading sheets for you. *gutloading sheet is really more of what you should be feeding your buggies regularly. At this age, your lady should be getting maybe 3-4 feeders every other day.
Proper supplements are also essential. Every feeding should be dusted with phosphorus free calcium without D3. One feeding every 2 weeks you’ll dust with calcium with D3 and on the opposite weeks, you’ll dust one feeding with a multivitamin. So every week there’s one feeding with either D3 or multivitamin.
You will need to prepare a lay bin. This is simply a bin that is at least 10x10x10”. Drill a few tiny holes in the bottom for drainage and fill to around 6-8” deep with washed play sand. Keep it moist enough so a tunnel can be made without it collapsing. I always suggest making it a permanent part of the enclosure rather than guessing when it’s needed.
It doesn’t look like she’s gotten her big girl colors yet. One day you’ll notice she’s starting to show her pretty colors and patterns. Soon after she’ll become very restless. This is the receptive period. She is looking for a man. Anywhere from a few weeks after that, she’ll be laying eggs. Her colors may or may not change. She will have gotten quite plump and even lumpy looking. Once she starts digging in her bin, cover the visible sides and give her absolute privacy. I poke holes in my sheet so I can monitor. Once she’s done, she’ll have covered up her hole and be sitting on her basking branch looking dirty and thin. Feed her well for a few days and then cut back feedings to 3 feeders 3 days a week.
View attachment 280775View attachment 280776
MissSkittles
Chameleon Enthusiast
I have had one of my girls for 1 1/2 yrs. She has laid twice. My other girl I’ve had a year and she’s laid once. Both laid around 35-45 eggs each time, which is a lot. However, both laid last in Feb/March, were receptive again not long after and are again receptive now. That they haven’t laid in so long, I have to assume my regimen is working well. Laying eggs takes a great deal out of them and shortens their lives, which is why we try to limit it. Also, the bigger their clutches are, the higher risks of becoming eggbound are.
MissSkittles
Chameleon Enthusiast
I’m sure I may have missed something.
AmandaS
Retired Moderator
You're very thorough, and give great advice.I’m sure I may have missed something.
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