hes sick i dont know wat too do

ningachams

New Member
i need some help my cham is not moveing he has his eyes closed in the middle of the day since its my 1st cham i am afraid for him wat can i do too get him better with out the vet cuase i got no money
 

Sticktongue

Avid Member
what are the cage temps, what kind of lights are you using. send pics of his enclosure on a new post

All of this is very critical since you dont have money for a vet. fill ALL this out. Try to include pictures of him and the enclosure like mentioned before


Chameleon Info:

* Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
* Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
* Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
* Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
* Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
* Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
* History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.


Cage Info:

* Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
* Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
* Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
* Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
* Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
* Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
* Location - Where are you geographically located?


Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.
 

ningachams

New Member
usambra three horned cham, male, im not sure of the age
once a day for like half an hour
15 crickets 50-100 meal worms i give them cricket food, water twice a week
herpcare ever time i get crickets
i spray it my self for like 15 mins 3 4 times a day i use the spray bottle too give him water ever mourning and nite some times he doesnt drink tho
no he has not been tested droppings seem fine
he was doing this last month then it passed by there is a bearded dragon above him too in a seprat cage

glass it home made my cusin made it i not sure the size but it pretty big
exo terra 50 w sun glo heat elemnets 800am till 800pm
the heat is at the top cooler at the bottom nite temp is 65 i got a couple temputures showing the whole cage temp
humidaty it about 70 put live plants in fog mech misting humidaty thingy
live plants a pittosporum tropical plant
its near a air vent it sits rite on the floor
i live in chatham ON canada

he may be sick
 

carol5208

Chameleon Enthusiast
Do you not have a UVB bulb? If you have not provided UVB then yes he is going to become ill. how long has he been in your care?. What do you mean 50-100 meal worms? How many are you feeding daily. ? You need three supplements to dust your feeder with. What is herpcare? You should be using Calcium without d3 at most feedings, calcium with d3 twice month and a multivitmin twice month. Also, you need to gutload your cricket with good nutritional fresh fruits and veggies. What are your cage temps? I would also raise your cage up off the ground and get him higher up. He is probably stressed being so low
 

ningachams

New Member
i belive its a uv bulb been in my care for three munths i put tht much in i dont watch too see if he eats them herpcare is the name of the calcuim i use temp is 77F
does rep cal sound like something
 

carol5208

Chameleon Enthusiast
You cannot just "believe" it is a uvb. Your chameleon will die without one. If you have just a basking bulb then you are providing heat but no uvb. You chameleon does not need 50-100 mealworms crawling around in its cage. All food that he does not eat should be removed. 15 crickets is overfeeding if your cham is an adult and ok if your cham is a baby or juvenile. Also depends on the size of the crikets. What size are you using? once in awhile a meal worm here or there would be ok. Why would you put that many meal worms in at one time?????? You need to post pics of your light, set and your chameleon if you want us to try and help you. You need two lights as I stated a uvb and a basking. your basking should just be about a 40-60 watt regular housebulb and your uvb should be a Reptisun 5.0 tube light, not the compact. What color is light part of the poop? White or orangey looking?
 

ningachams

New Member
the box for the bulb says uvA, ive been trying too get pics on its not working, the poop is white its an adult i think its 14 cms i give it middium sized crickets, the meal worms r in a dish i clean the dish and put the worms back in just if he wants too eat it anytime during the day i know i proby doing a bunch of things wrong i did my resurce before i joined this thing and he was fine till today
 

Julirs

New Member
You obviously did not do research or you would know that UVB lighting is essential and you would have it. If your chameleon is sleeping during the day he is sick-no doubt about it. You need to get him to a Vet pronto, and if you did not have the money for proper Vet bills you should not have the animal. He may have seemed just fine, but it is in their nature to pretend they are fine until they cannot pretend anymore.
 

ningachams

New Member
ok i did recusch but not good then so i horrible at this, ive been tryin my hardest i put my cham before anything else maybe i should just give up if tht wat u saying i put this up too get help not be called an idiot
 

sallyb

New Member
This is terrible !! Please take him to the vet asap. He is obviously a very unwell little boy. You should definitely have a UVB strip in his viv, if you cannot afford to take him to the vet or supply the things he needs then maybe you should consider finding him a new home with a more exprerienced owner. I do not mean to offend you, but perhaps you are not yet ready to own a chameleon. I hope he makes it, good luck.
 

ferretinmyshoes

Veterinarian
Staff member
ok i did recusch but not good then so i horrible at this, ive been tryin my hardest i put my cham before anything else maybe i should just give up if tht wat u saying i put this up too get help not be called an idiot
Some people are a little grumpy today, generally people are much more willing to help instead of just put you down...

Regardless of what happened before you got your little cham the fact is you have him now and need advice to properly care for him. Read up some more on the correct set up for veileds to get an idea of what you're dealing with. I know yours is not a veiled but the basics of husbandry (lighting, gutloading, etc.) are the same. Maybe someone more experienced with this species will chime in to address temperature and humidity ranges.


Here's some information you might find helpful......
Exposure to proper UVB, appropriate temperatures, supplements, a supply of well-fed/gutloaded insects, water and an appropriate cage set-up are all important for the well-being of your chameleon.

Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.

Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.

Since many of the feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects before you feed them to the chameleon with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).

If you dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).

Dusting twice a month with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite.)

Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)

Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.

Here are some good sites for you to read...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200604210...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
I'm sure some of us would be happy to answer your questions after looking over what I've given you if you still have them. The start to getting your chameleon healthy to make sure he is in the correct environment. Only then can you begin to address other problems.
 

Julirs

New Member
I am not calling you an idiot (and yes I am a littel grumpy). You are in the right place to get help, but you are going to need a Vets assistance more than likely. There is only so much we can do. Pictures of you cham and setup will help us help you.
 

Julirs

New Member
You can go to Photobucket or another like website and set up an account. You would then post the IMG line in your post here.
 

Julirs

New Member
Nope-if you click you can make them bigger so they are fine. That is an interesting cage, and not really a bad setup by any means. What is on the bottom of the cage as far as substrate?

Are you using a digital thermometer to measure temps? Do you have a UVB bulb on him? Is he maybe stressed by the bearded dragon you said is above him?

Can you take a more close up pic of your cham?
 

ningachams

New Member
rainforest wood chips leaves from the plant the meal worm dish
i can get tht closer pic i use measure temp i dont have uvB yet i going tommo everthing closed today he mite the beardie make alot of movement noise
 
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