I must say i disagree, an ant bite could do a lot to a chameleon that young
Help! :(
- Thread starter raainn
- Start date
I must say i disagree, an ant bite could do a lot to a chameleon that young
DeviousMike
New Member
Try to look into some of the stuff we have suggested and run with it a few days. Your cham should improve once you get the husbandry right.
Yes I agree, give her a few days to get settled. There's not much a vet can do at this point right now anyway since she isn't having obvious health problems. They would have you make the husbandry changes suggested in this thread first.
A lot can happen between the time raain goes to school and comes back. I think she should have her parents do some stuff (misting, regulating temperature) while she is at school. I think the baby may be dehydrated because of the lack of proper misting or a dripper
jannb
Chameleon Enthusiast
Welcome to the forums. Here's a link to the blog I sent you in my reply to your pm.... not sure if it opened for you or not but it will show you the correct lighting, supplements and gutload that you will need.
https://www.chameleonforums.com/blo...-keepers-young-veiled-panther-chameleons.html
https://www.chameleonforums.com/blo...-keepers-young-veiled-panther-chameleons.html
Thats a safe plant for chams, so unless you see little bugs walking around on it then dont remove it
carol5208
Chameleon Enthusiast
are you sure?i looked it up and it says its one of the most poisonous household plants...
Sorry, i was thinking of Pothos, the plant you use would be fine if your cham wouldnt snack on the leaves which are poisonous
I would remove it. Veileds do like to munch on plant leaves so better safe than sorry! Pothos, hibiscus, and sheffelera arboricola (umbrella plant) are the 3 big ones that are nontoxic and used the most. You can usually find any of those at a walmart, home depots, lowes, or someplace similar. Make sure you rinse off the leaves well before putting it in her cage to get rid of any pesticide or fertilizer residues. And cover the soil with river rocks or screen so your cham can't eat any of the soil at all. Then you should be all set with a new plant.
It can be difficult to get started with these little guys, but it's so rewarding once everything is running smoothly! Feel free to ask more questions if you have them.
It can be difficult to get started with these little guys, but it's so rewarding once everything is running smoothly! Feel free to ask more questions if you have them.
Echoezra
Established Member
Supplements
Nobody's really mentioned supplements yet except in that link, and i noticed you didnt have anything written for that question, so in case you didn't read the link yet, I wanted to mention that you should at least get a plain calcium supplement (no D3) for your everyday bug dusting, right away, and then you'll also need to get another calcium with D3, and a multivitamin like herptivite as well, you'll be using those last two only a couple of times a month so you've got a week or two before you really need those, so get the regular calcium, dripper and bulbs first for sure. Good luck.
Nobody's really mentioned supplements yet except in that link, and i noticed you didnt have anything written for that question, so in case you didn't read the link yet, I wanted to mention that you should at least get a plain calcium supplement (no D3) for your everyday bug dusting, right away, and then you'll also need to get another calcium with D3, and a multivitamin like herptivite as well, you'll be using those last two only a couple of times a month so you've got a week or two before you really need those, so get the regular calcium, dripper and bulbs first for sure. Good luck.
Welcome to the world of chameleons raainn!
Can you post a couple of pictures of the chameleon and the set up please?
Here's some information that might help.......
Exposure to proper UVB, appropriate temperatures, supplements, a supply of well-fed/gutloaded insects, water and an appropriate cage set-up are all important for the well-being of your chameleon.
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.
Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.
Since many of the feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).
If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).
Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite.)
Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)
Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.
Here are some good sites for you to read...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/
One more thing...female veileds can produce eggs without having been mated...so once she is sexually mature its important for her to have an appropriate place in the cage to dig in to show you that she's ready to lay eggs. Failure to provide a place to lay eggs can lead to eggbinding.
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
Can you post a couple of pictures of the chameleon and the set up please?
Here's some information that might help.......
Exposure to proper UVB, appropriate temperatures, supplements, a supply of well-fed/gutloaded insects, water and an appropriate cage set-up are all important for the well-being of your chameleon.
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.
Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.
Since many of the feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).
If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).
Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite.)
Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)
Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.
Here are some good sites for you to read...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/
One more thing...female veileds can produce eggs without having been mated...so once she is sexually mature its important for her to have an appropriate place in the cage to dig in to show you that she's ready to lay eggs. Failure to provide a place to lay eggs can lead to eggbinding.
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
BocaJan
New Member
When you get a new plant you need to take it out of the pot, take it outside and rinse the whole thing off until you get to bare roots. Bugs live in the soil. I have brought bugs in the house from bringing in a new plant when setting up a new cage by just rinsing off leaves. Do it well the first time and you won't have to do it again. Buy a small bag of unfertilized dirt at the same time you get your new plant and repot (wash the pot also) your plant. Put a few washed rocks or old broken plant pot pieces if you have these in the bottom to help keep the dirt in the pot when you water. Don't fill the dirt to the top. Put some small and medium sized rocks on top of the soil to cover the dirt so your baby can't eat the dirt and you are good to go.
justjumpit621
New Member
I agree. Point is if they are new to reptiles they should have not gotten a chameleon. I started with a snake. If they wanted to start with a chameleon they should have done all their research. Unfortunately now they have her and we need to help them.
