Help please! Sleeping during the day and not eating!

kinyonga

Chameleon Enthusiast
I cut this from the thread I cited... I'm commenting in red.
  • Your Chameleon - Veiled, male, 3-4 months. I have it for 1.5 months.
  • Handling - I didn’t handle it yet cuz he is scared so I’m trying not to push it but to tame him with hand feeding.
  • Feeding -crickets, mealworms, calci worms( doesn’t really go for this ones), hornworms( the smallest I can find) and wax warms. I have a powder food and cubes for crickets. He eats in the morning usually up to 2 worms and a few crickets ( 10-11 am) than he gets a 3-4 crickets (1-2 pm). I would recommend you use greens such as dandelions, kale, collards, endive, etc and veggies such as squash, zucchini, sweet red pepper, sweet potato, etc. and a small amount of berries, melon, apples, pears, papaya, etc.
  • Supplements - multivitamin twice a month, calcium+D3, 3/week. ZooMed and other brand. it's recommended that you dust twice a month with a vitamin powder and twice a month with a phos free calcium/ D3 powder and at all other feedings with a phos free calcium powder....all lightly.
  • Watering - I have a little dripper and than I have a mister ( mist 3 times daily for about 2 mins). I use tap water plus ReptiSafe water drops.
  • Fecal Description - Not tested. Consistent and pretty normal.
  • History - Got him from a breeder.

Cage Info:

  • Cage Type - Screen, exoterra brand. L size.
  • Lighting - 9am-9 pm. Usually for a daily time I take him outside to enjoy natural sunlight and fresh air. But I have heat bulb and uvb bulbs. Attached below. since you take him outside quite often, you can likely cut back on the D3 I listed.
  • Temperature - doesn’t drop below 70. Busking spot on average 80. Attached the photos. Have a digital thermometer inside the cage.
  • Humidity - Humidity is around 30-60. Once outside might be up to 80 especially after the rain. Once it’s drops to 30 I mist the cage. I have also little dripper and heating pad so the water on the bottom can evaporate.
  • Plants - one, hibiscus plant. Already replanted in organic soil. Have a screen around the plant so insects and chameleon can’t get the soil. I had this plant more than a week before I placed it in a cage. Water only with spring water.
  • Placement - Living room, regular A/C ( not below 70). No fan is on near the cage.
  • Location - Florida, Orlando.
 

Alex_Boris

Member
Your Chameleon - Veiled, male, 12-13 mon old. I got him at 3 m.o
  • Handling - Doesn’t like to be held.once in a while take him with the stick for the showers ( 2-3 times a week).
  • Feeding -crickets (stop liking them) mealworms ( don’t give them much) calci worms( doesn’t really go for this ones, so I try to hatch a flies from them. He likes them better), roaches ( he is not too fond of those either) hornwormsand wax warms ( give him once in awhile as a treat). I gut load them with oranges, carrots, apples, mustard, collard greens, cucumber etc. .
  • Supplements - mom-sat calcium without D3 and than I alternate multivitamin and calcium with D3 on sundays.
  • Watering - I have a mister ( 2 times a day) and forget ( works once in a while during the nite and hour before the bed and before wakening). I use tap water plus ReptiSafe water drops.
  • Fecal Description - Not tested. For the past week no pee just poop.
  • History - Got him from a breeder.

Cage Info:

  • Cage Type - Screen, exoterra brand. L size. In a week getting XL
  • Lighting - 6-6pm. I have heat ceramic bulb ( 1 year old), phillips bulb for baskin and Arcadia 6%
  • Temperature - doesn’t drop below 70 on a most parts. ( right now a little chilly during the night maybe 60-65 ) Busking spot on average 80.
  • Humidity - Humidity is around 30-60. Once outside might be up to 80 especially after the rain. Once it’s drops to 30 I mist the cage. heating pad so the water on the bottom can evaporate and shower curtains that I close cage around during the night with them and open front during the day.
  • Plants - two photos plants. Already got few more ready for his new XL cage.
  • Placement - regular A/C ( not below 70). No fan is on near the cage.
 

Alex_Boris

Member
I cut this from the thread I cited... I'm commenting in red.
  • Your Chameleon - Veiled, male, 3-4 months. I have it for 1.5 months.
  • Handling - I didn’t handle it yet cuz he is scared so I’m trying not to push it but to tame him with hand feeding.
  • Feeding -crickets, mealworms, calci worms( doesn’t really go for this ones), hornworms( the smallest I can find) and wax warms. I have a powder food and cubes for crickets. He eats in the morning usually up to 2 worms and a few crickets ( 10-11 am) than he gets a 3-4 crickets (1-2 pm). I would recommend you use greens such as dandelions, kale, collards, endive, etc and veggies such as squash, zucchini, sweet red pepper, sweet potato, etc. and a small amount of berries, melon, apples, pears, papaya, etc.
  • Supplements - multivitamin twice a month, calcium+D3, 3/week. ZooMed and other brand. it's recommended that you dust twice a month with a vitamin powder and twice a month with a phos free calcium/ D3 powder and at all other feedings with a phos free calcium powder....all lightly.
  • Watering - I have a little dripper and than I have a mister ( mist 3 times daily for about 2 mins). I use tap water plus ReptiSafe water drops.
  • Fecal Description - Not tested. Consistent and pretty normal.
  • History - Got him from a breeder.

Cage Info:

  • Cage Type - Screen, exoterra brand. L size.
  • Lighting - 9am-9 pm. Usually for a daily time I take him outside to enjoy natural sunlight and fresh air. But I have heat bulb and uvb bulbs. Attached below. since you take him outside quite often, you can likely cut back on the D3 I listed.
  • Temperature - doesn’t drop below 70. Busking spot on average 80. Attached the photos. Have a digital thermometer inside the cage.
  • Humidity - Humidity is around 30-60. Once outside might be up to 80 especially after the rain. Once it’s drops to 30 I mist the cage. I have also little dripper and heating pad so the water on the bottom can evaporate.
  • Plants - one, hibiscus plant. Already replanted in organic soil. Have a screen around the plant so insects and chameleon can’t get the soil. I had this plant more than a week before I placed it in a cage. Water only with spring water.
  • Placement - Living room, regular A/C ( not below 70). No fan is on near the cage.
  • Location - Florida, Orlando.
Update my info! Thank you
 

Beman

Chameleon Enthusiast
It is normal with weather changes, season changes, and even cage changes for them to back off eating. While there is no issue covering the back and sides if that makes him feel more secure having the front covered depending on how long your doing it for and when your doing it cuts down air circulation and creates stagnant air.
Having a heating pad on the bottom is not good either. Your heating water and creating an environment for bacterial growth. This in turn will create risk for a respiratory infection.

They need a temp drop at night. So even 70 at night is warm for them. Your actually wanting it down to 60-65 at night. No heat or lights on at night. With you being in FL it will be rare for you to ever have temps in your home below 50 to have to provide ambient heating to the room.

Personally I do not use ceramic heat bulbs. Honestly they can be dangerous and are a risk when it comes to a thermal burn. And if your turning it on at night then this is not correct.

Here are good resources for you for setting up your next cage and correcting husbandry https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/
https://chameleonacademy.com/veiled-chameleon-care/
 

Alex_Boris

Member
It is normal with weather changes, season changes, and even cage changes for them to back off eating. While there is no issue covering the back and sides if that makes him feel more secure having the front covered depending on how long your doing it for and when your doing it cuts down air circulation and creates stagnant air.
Having a heating pad on the bottom is not good either. Your heating water and creating an environment for bacterial growth. This in turn will create risk for a respiratory infection.

They need a temp drop at night. So even 70 at night is warm for them. Your actually wanting it down to 60-65 at night. No heat or lights on at night. With you being in FL it will be rare for you to ever have temps in your home below 50 to have to provide ambient heating to the room.

Personally I do not use ceramic heat bulbs. Honestly they can be dangerous and are a risk when it comes to a thermal burn. And if your turning it on at night then this is not correct.

Here are good resources for you for setting up your next cage and correcting husbandry https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/
https://chameleonacademy.com/veiled-chameleon-care/
Awesome. Thank you so much. So I think he did get cold lol I change yesterday the heat bulb and when I came in the morning he was chilling on his branch with basking spot. I gave him 3 hornworms dusted in calcium without D3, he ate 1 and kinda went to hide. So I left those two for him to get his appetite.
I keep the front closed with curtain only fir a night time when fogger works to keep humidity up.
I will be off next two day and will see how he is doing and if he keep sleeping during the day.
 

Alex_Boris

Member
It is normal with weather changes, season changes, and even cage changes for them to back off eating. While there is no issue covering the back and sides if that makes him feel more secure having the front covered depending on how long your doing it for and when your doing it cuts down air circulation and creates stagnant air.
Having a heating pad on the bottom is not good either. Your heating water and creating an environment for bacterial growth. This in turn will create risk for a respiratory infection.

They need a temp drop at night. So even 70 at night is warm for them. Your actually wanting it down to 60-65 at night. No heat or lights on at night. With you being in FL it will be rare for you to ever have temps in your home below 50 to have to provide ambient heating to the room.

Personally I do not use ceramic heat bulbs. Honestly they can be dangerous and are a risk when it comes to a thermal burn. And if your turning it on at night then this is not correct.

Here are good resources for you for setting up your next cage and correcting husbandry https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/
https://chameleonacademy.com/veiled-chameleon-care/
Also, is this bulb is good for basking? I saw somewhere online but wasn’t sure.
 

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Alex_Boris

Member
An Update! So Boris feels sooo much better. No sleeping at day time. Still eats a little, like every 3-4 days, but basking and moving around. Overall looks so much happier already. I guess he was getting super cold that’s why he was getting very lethargic. We are going to have another few cold days and nights so will provide him some warmth with ceramic heat bulb.
Still not sure if 3-4 days are good for him to be without food. Cuz even when he eats he does t eat much.
 

Beman

Chameleon Enthusiast
An Update! So Boris feels sooo much better. No sleeping at day time. Still eats a little, like every 3-4 days, but basking and moving around. Overall looks so much happier already. I guess he was getting super cold that’s why he was getting very lethargic. We are going to have another few cold days and nights so will provide him some warmth with ceramic heat bulb.
Still not sure if 3-4 days are good for him to be without food. Cuz even when he eats he does t eat much.
You should not provide any heat at night unless it is below 50. Ceramic bulbs can be very dangerous so be careful. They are responsible for thermal burns and they can heat the area to much as well. Because they actually need the night time temp drop. If you fog at night you can not do this with a Ceramic running because it has to be cool fog not hot fog.
 
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