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Hi everyone,
I thought I would introduce myself. I am new to keeping chameleons, but have had other reptiles for close to 8 years. I just purchased a baby veiled chameleon on Black Friday. His name is Kink as he has a kink in his tail. This kink in no way inhibates the curling, but is likely a genetic disorder. Anyway, he was the biggest and strongest male in the bunch, and was picked out for me by the breeder because of this. They breeder gave me lots of information on them, and I have read a lot as well. I am an adult, and have lots of experience in caring for many different species of animals both personally and professionally. ( wanted to point this out so I wouldn't have people jumping down my throat about not reading years in advance.) Anyway I just came by to say hi, and would like any other information you can give. I love to learn about new and interesting things.
Thanks for reading.
Hello Welcome to the forums:)

and how eciting to already have your first veiled chameleon:)
Do not worry, we wont attack;) you much about proper set uo and such:D

well before we can help you, may you please provide info of what set up you have for your cham:)


that is the link to place information in the known format:)

also PIcs help ALOT and are fun to look at:D


Waves HI!!

Kink...I love it. I have been wanting to suggest a photo theme of "different" chameleons. My new baby's horns twist off to the right. I think it's adorable.

My guess would be the kink is a broken tail. They can break them in the egg. I doubt it's genetic and I don't think it should prevent you from breeding him if that comes up as an idea.

You should read the links posted in the sticky at the top of this forum.

You might want to start with this blog, it will give you a great grounding in what you need.
Welcome to the forum!

Here's some information to start you off.......
Exposure to proper UVB, appropriate temperatures, supplements, a supply of well-fed/gutloaded insects, water and an appropriate cage set-up are all important for the well-being of your chameleon.

Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.

Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.

Since many of the feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects before you feed them to the chameleon with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).

If you dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. (Some UVB lights have been known to cause health issues, so the most often recommended one is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light.) D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).

Dusting twice a month with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite.)

Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)

Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.

Here are some good sites for you and your parents to read...
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Thank you guys so much :->. I will read all the info! I finally took some pics of Kink and his enclosure. I have a small reptibreeze enclosure that measures 16x16x20, which I was misinformed by the breeder he could live in his whole life. I'm thinking now he will need a bigger one when he gets older. Anyway here is everything. I keep a towel on the bottom to soak up excess water, which I replace on a weekly baises.


This is the top. Drip system, basking light and UVB light.


The inside.


Here's Kink



Not very good pic of his tail.

Oh and I'm the only one who needs to read. I'm 28 years old, I think you thought I was younger. :) Just wanted to let you know I'm a responsible adult.
Hello and welcome to the forums!

Kink is a cutie, he wont be that little very long they grow fast lol

You my want to look into replacing the towel with a drain system, couple holes in the bottom and a bucket to catch it works great ;)

Congratulations he looks like a little character
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