Welcome to the world of chameleons!
Goldenbaby...you are lucky to be buying the chameleon from a place that won't let them go until they feel they are old enough.
pennington...do you have a UVB light?? (see below for information about the need for one, if you don't).
RAFASTAR23...most chameleons do not
enjoy being handled...some will
tolerate it....some never will. I leave it up to the individual chameleon to tell me what it will allow. I have had veileds that willingly come out on my hand and it never seems to have caused them problems...I have had other veileds that will run down the branch and attack me no matter how often I have tried to handle it and will definitely attack me viciously if I take them out. Just like people...they have different personalities and different levels of tolerance.
Here's some information to get you started.......I didn't talk about cage set up, exact temperatures or misting, etc....but that information is not hard to find on this forum and caging and temperature varies somewhat with the species ....but here is how I keep hatchlings...
http://chameleonnews.com/02NovHorgan.html
Exposure to proper UVB, appropriate temperatures, supplements, a supply of well-fed/gutloaded insects, water and an appropriate cage set-up are all important for the well-being of your chameleon. Heat is not required at night unless your room temperatures drop below the mid 60's and then it depends on the species and age of the chameleon to some extent because some can go even lower than that. If you do need heat at night, then a ceramic heat emitting "bulb" is recommended so that there is no light in your chameleon's cage.
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption. For a basking light (when one is required) I use a regular incandescent household light in a domed hood of a wattage that provides the basking temperature required. Many hatchlings don't need the temperatures to be as hot as the adults do...their small body size allows them to dehydrate and cool off and warm up more rapidly than the adults do.
Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.
Since many of the feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).
If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).
Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite.)
Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)
Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.
Here are some good sites for you to read...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
One more thing...most chameleons won't recognize the ceramic heat emitter as a source of heat...so they look for a light source to warm up under during the daytime...so to speak.
Again maybe this is the inaccurate information I am getting with the pet shop they told me (again I'm new to owning a Cham, this will be my first Cham - so I want to make sure I'm doing everything correct before I bring him home) that I should NOT handle the Veiled Cham because it stresses them out too much and its too hard on them. So as little to almost no handling. Which I've seen other owners handling their's, I want to get as much reliable information as I can before making mistakes. 
