Gravid veiled (I think) doesn't want to lay eggs.
- Thread starter Djborx
- Start date
Having the same problems with my chameleon I always thought it was a male even after reading about the spurs. So when she started trying to "escape" thought the bottom and stopped eating with her tongue I reasearched (I have forced fed her while she opens her mouth with crickets/calcium and ends up eating them quite willingly). She is very stong and looks well, but she will not stay in the bin and just trys to get out.
Anyways I wanted to ask if anything happened with your cham. I hope they can lay their eggs and be on with it.
Anyways I wanted to ask if anything happened with your cham. I hope they can lay their eggs and be on with it.
Djborx
Member
Just like mine, I don't want to force feed her at this stage but I wonder if I should... How long has yours been showing symptoms?
There has been no improvements throughout the weekend, in fact, she has stopped eating completely now. I have tried 4 different laying bins with all possible combinations of sand and soil but still nothing. She also has complete privacy.
She doesn't try going to the bottom of the cage anymore, she just lays in the basking spot all day. She still looks fine and her colours are great, but I know there's something wrong.
I'm going back to the vet today for another shot of oxytocin, see if it does something. The vet wants to operate and remove the ovaries so she doesn't produce eggs anymore, but I read that there's usually complications afterwards. Not to mention that it's nearly $600 (450€) and if I don't have an appointment and they have to perform an emergency one it's over $1500 (1200€). I'm very torn but I think I'm going to lose her otherwise.
Good luck with everything! Keep me posted on how it goes with yours.
There has been no improvements throughout the weekend, in fact, she has stopped eating completely now. I have tried 4 different laying bins with all possible combinations of sand and soil but still nothing. She also has complete privacy.
She doesn't try going to the bottom of the cage anymore, she just lays in the basking spot all day. She still looks fine and her colours are great, but I know there's something wrong.
I'm going back to the vet today for another shot of oxytocin, see if it does something. The vet wants to operate and remove the ovaries so she doesn't produce eggs anymore, but I read that there's usually complications afterwards. Not to mention that it's nearly $600 (450€) and if I don't have an appointment and they have to perform an emergency one it's over $1500 (1200€). I'm very torn but I think I'm going to lose her otherwise.
Good luck with everything! Keep me posted on how it goes with yours.
Did she dig at all?
Did you see any more signs of her "pooping" out yolk?
Here's something you might like to look at...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UaX-3O3unLQ
How have you been supplementing her specifically? Gutloading/feeding the insects?
How much do you feed her in a week?
Did you see any more signs of her "pooping" out yolk?
Here's something you might like to look at...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UaX-3O3unLQ
How have you been supplementing her specifically? Gutloading/feeding the insects?
How much do you feed her in a week?
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Djborx
Member
She didn't dig at all, she pretended digging but that's it, she only spent some time in the bottom of the cage, explored the laying bins and that's it. She did the same in the other laying bins.
Her poop is completely fine now, no signs of yolk.
Yes, I have been supplementing her. I have a table which I always follow:
MONDAY: Calcium
TUESDAY: Calcium
WEDNESDAY: Vitamins without D3
THURSDAY: No supplements
FRIDAY: Calcium
SATURDAY: Calcium
SUNDAYS: Vitamins without D3 (once a month with D3)
She has been eating 5 medium sized cricket everyday, although maybe I should reduce the amount is she pulls this through. All the crickets are gutloaded with carrots and cabbage.
That video is super interesting, it's amazing the amount of eggs they can produce... Poor little things.
Her poop is completely fine now, no signs of yolk.
Yes, I have been supplementing her. I have a table which I always follow:
MONDAY: Calcium
TUESDAY: Calcium
WEDNESDAY: Vitamins without D3
THURSDAY: No supplements
FRIDAY: Calcium
SATURDAY: Calcium
SUNDAYS: Vitamins without D3 (once a month with D3)
She has been eating 5 medium sized cricket everyday, although maybe I should reduce the amount is she pulls this through. All the crickets are gutloaded with carrots and cabbage.
That video is super interesting, it's amazing the amount of eggs they can produce... Poor little things.
What do you mean by pretend digging?
You should feed/gutload the insects such as crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms with a wide assortment of greens such as collards, escarole, endive, dandelion greens, kale, etc and veggies such as carrots, sweet red pepper, squash, zucchini, sweet potato, etc. Cabbage is not recommended for gutloading with very often.
You should feed/gutload the insects such as crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms with a wide assortment of greens such as collards, escarole, endive, dandelion greens, kale, etc and veggies such as carrots, sweet red pepper, squash, zucchini, sweet potato, etc. Cabbage is not recommended for gutloading with very often.
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Cammy36
New Member
Hi i am in the same position my chameleon veiled...is huge and walks n her indoor and outdoor laybins she literally spreads her legs between 2 hibiscus
branches as far/wide as she can like she is trying to get/push something(s) out shes huge im so worried about her eggs being broken inside her and she could have a septic shock problem! Please any information will help only holding her like that to show weight ......she is evan larger now!Attachments
Hey this thread is super old, you should start your own thread to address this issue.Hi i am in the same position my chameleon veiled...is huge and walks n her indoor and outdoor laybins she literally spreads her legs between 2 hibiscus
Did you leave her alone and give her privacy as was mentioned in one of your other threads? If she doesn't lay in time, she can become egg bound which is a vet emergency.
Watching a chameleon near laying time, handling her, moving her around, etc are all things that increase the chances of eggbinding.
They should not be disturbed any more than absolutely necessary while gravid
If they have been overfed and are overweight when they become receptive they can develop follicular stasis and eggbinding and even MBD and other health issues and can also prolapse and eventually die.
Oxytocin will only work if the timing is right IMHO.
In the second xray posted, the eggs look oval to me so if she has "anything" it's eggbinding not follicular stasis I think. (I'm not a vet and can only give you my best guesses from experience and what I've learned over,the years.)
Laying a large clutch puts a big demand on the body for calcium for the egg shells and the muscle condition needed to lay he eggs. The D3 and calcium and phos and vitamin A need to be spot on as possible during this time. Diet and temperature need to be controlled during the time the follicles are starting to develop right through to the egg laying and recovery after the laying to keep the clutch size small and provide al that is needed for the egg production and the laying.
If the chameleon is lethargic, sleeping during the day, not eating, ghost laying, etc, etc then she needs to be spayed before she becomes too weak to survive the surgery.
They should not be disturbed any more than absolutely necessary while gravid
If they have been overfed and are overweight when they become receptive they can develop follicular stasis and eggbinding and even MBD and other health issues and can also prolapse and eventually die.
Oxytocin will only work if the timing is right IMHO.
In the second xray posted, the eggs look oval to me so if she has "anything" it's eggbinding not follicular stasis I think. (I'm not a vet and can only give you my best guesses from experience and what I've learned over,the years.)
Laying a large clutch puts a big demand on the body for calcium for the egg shells and the muscle condition needed to lay he eggs. The D3 and calcium and phos and vitamin A need to be spot on as possible during this time. Diet and temperature need to be controlled during the time the follicles are starting to develop right through to the egg laying and recovery after the laying to keep the clutch size small and provide al that is needed for the egg production and the laying.
If the chameleon is lethargic, sleeping during the day, not eating, ghost laying, etc, etc then she needs to be spayed before she becomes too weak to survive the surgery.
Cammy36
New Member
Thank u
Cammy36
New Member
Thank you so very much
