female bleeding
- Thread starter thedude
- Start date
laurie
Retired Moderator
No that is not normal. Is your girl bleeding or do you just see a drop of blood?
after they separated i examined both the male and female and the female slit under her tale is dry and closed. but my males slit has a little blood around it. his manhood is retracted and slit closed but the blood stain on the paper towel is about 1 1/2 inches in diameter. i think it was my male that was damaged but his manhood is retracted and i really don't know if he will be ok. he looks fine, and when i went to take him out of her cage she turned pink again and he started to move towards her again, but i took him out because i didn't want to risk it.
thanks, let me know if you learn of any similar experiences or what it might be, if not i understand.
Dr O
Veterinarian
well, you're right in that we don't know if it's him or her, but the amount of blood doesn't really concern me for whoever it was, assuming it has stopped. cham blood is much thinner than ours in that they have less cells in it, so spreading through the paper towel doesn't seem too terrible.
I would definitely NOT recommend breeding either one right now until it's clear who the culprit is, or until it just heals up on its own.
why don't you post some updates as they change or at least once daily. if we are still doing well in about 5 days, we'll reassess.
dr o—
I would definitely NOT recommend breeding either one right now until it's clear who the culprit is, or until it just heals up on its own.
why don't you post some updates as they change or at least once daily. if we are still doing well in about 5 days, we'll reassess.
dr o—
thanks, i'll post updates. and there wasn't any continuous bleeding nor a blood trail just the blood on the paper towel right below where they were mating. i hope they are both ok or will be. thanks again for responding
Dr O
Veterinarian
while you observe for any more bleeding/swelling, please also make sure that they both are eating and drinking normally. if one is anorexic, again we have a likely culprit.
it's usually the male as he may have been extending a hemipene and it gets clawed or dragged across something. if it is and it swells or gets infected, it will usually prolapse, so i just want to you to be aware of that if you should see it so you don't panic. worse case scenario; it is amputated. as these boys have 2, it's makes no difference towards their breeding future! i just amputated a leopard gecko's hemipene about 3 weeks ago for the same reason, but he'll be fine.
dr o—
it's usually the male as he may have been extending a hemipene and it gets clawed or dragged across something. if it is and it swells or gets infected, it will usually prolapse, so i just want to you to be aware of that if you should see it so you don't panic. worse case scenario; it is amputated. as these boys have 2, it's makes no difference towards their breeding future! i just amputated a leopard gecko's hemipene about 3 weeks ago for the same reason, but he'll be fine.
dr o—
both seem fine no bleeding. the female is almost completely black, which from the books i've read is normal. the female didn't eat anything today, she actually nocked her insects off the branches and screen intentionally like she was hunting them but nocked them off. some of the stuff i read says that can be normal for a gravid female before shes ready to lay eggs but she just mated yesterday. she also laid infertile eggs (not mated) a few weeks ago, and from what i understand ambilobe panther chameleons usually have a longer span between egg laying. the male of course ate all his superworms today, but he didn't touch his hornworms. not to unusual for him, hes 16 months old and sometimes gets a little pickier about his food variety. i saw both drink water. and for my female i put a few drops of liquid calcium in her dripper. let me know if you think of anything that might be a concern. thanks again.
Dr O
Veterinarian
definitely a good idea, i certainly wasn't implying that you should do it yourself!
injury aside, i don't think it's a good idea to breed her just several weeks after she just laid eggs, infertile or not. she still has placed a tremendous amount of calcium and proteins into those eggs and that really takes months to replace in her body so that she's ready to lay again. many people on this forum who breed only do so every 6-12 months for their females, and even the most vigourous breeders probably wouldn't attempt it for at least 2-3 months.
do you know for sure if the breeding was sucessful?
i'm pretty sure but not certain the breeding was successful. we tried to leave them alone, but i stayed in until he was pretty much mounting her to make sure she was still receptive, and i checked in with them and peaked in real quick and they were doing it. we left them in the same cage for an hour. when i went in after a hour they were separated and they were sitting on parallel branches with their backs facing each other. both very calm, almost like they were ashamed. we had a female a long time ago that passed away laying eggs (infertile) she was too young to mate. we tried everything from putting her in a trash full of dirt with lights set up and a mister to essentially biulding something that fit the bottom of her cage and was secluded for her to lay. we tried organic soil and then play sand but nothing. she waited so long we started to get worried and we took her to the vet and he ex rayed her to see the eggs, he said they were calcified and she should lay any day. gave us some liquid food and calcium and told us to feed her. but she didnt make it. her body mass was just to small to begin with. i sometimes regret how i chose to raise her. a very popular breeder online whos name i won't mention told me to feed her less as a juvenile and keep her cage a few degrees cooler and she won't lay eggs so quickly, also when she did she wouldnt lay as many. well my female then was half the size as the female we have now and the female that passed away layed all her eggs i'm pretty sure and then died right above her whole. she had 26 eggs. my wife and i were heart broken, we love our chameleons and thought we would never try again but we decided to give it a go. this time i purchased from a different breeder. also very popular in florida. our female has an appetite and shes big, like 13 inches from head to toe. normal i suppose but big compared to our other female. we keep her cage the same as our male and i don't use any starvation techniques. when we lost our first female a long time ago the vet told us sometimes a virgin female will hold out as long as they can in hopes to mate, because in the wild they don't usually make through a second season. and if they wait to long then they can become to weak to lay eggs. now none told us to mate our current female so soon but so looked even healthier than before she laid eggs. nice fat legs. and we got worried she may have the same problem as the other female. our first female was very tame, she would come right to me if i put my hand in her cage face up. and she never tried to crawl up to my face, like she felt comfort and safety in my hand. our current female has always been very aggressive she tries to bight me if i try to pick her up. when i clean her cage i have to trick her to walk into a temporary cage. is uppose more and more i have a lot of regrets. the books aren't very thorough on breeding and make it seem easy, but its not. any way i'll keep you up to date.
my male chameleon looked a little swollen today very minor this morning but its not swollen this afternoon. his manhood poked out about an 1/8 inch this morning and went back in almost immediately. on his slit upon examination at the bottom right of the "u" shape on his slit it looks like the skin has torn almost as if his manhood punched right thru his slit, its a very small tear maybe 1/16 inch and round. no blood indications in his cage but what looks like dried blood around his slit where the torn skin was. his colors are brighter than normal. not quite as bright as when he did his mating call but his greens look more yellow green and they are usually true green. when he did his mating call his greens turned completely yellow and his reds were even brighter as well as his blue stripes. my female hasn't eaten anything, but shes drinking and i continue to put a few drops of liquid calcium in her dripper. shes was completly black all day till this afternoon. shes now showing some signs of salmon pink but not as pink as when she was receptive. shes been spending most of her time under the reptisun. she moved to her heat spot this afternoon for the first time that i've seen since they mated and thats when her colors changed. she still has buldging eyes and meaty legs. hard to see her stomach since i don't see her move around alot. i know she moves because she changes positions but i don't see her move. her dirt which is cleaned playsand is untouched. we have a 16x16 by 12 inches deep container in her cage with an additional 3 inch overlap above the dirt with some fake foliage and branches down to it. i also have covered the lower part of her cage with a piece of poster board to give more privacy. i'm afraid to try and move her. because as i have stated previously she has always been very aggressive when i try to pick her up or touch her. shes fine and calm if i'm cleaning the bottom of her cage and such but as soon as i get within 2 inches of her she turns violent. not worried about me but her. if she hurt her self. also this morning my male chameleon was acting a bit out of character towards me while i was examining him but just looking at him he gaped hissed and wiggled he immediately stopped when i left him alone. he has only done this to me twice before in his life. which was the first 2 times i removed him to clean his cage when he was a juvenile. he's usually exited to see me and is hand trained, the worse i usually get from him is a gape in his neck for 2 or 3 seconds to let me know hes unhappy and then he relaxes and even that is rare.
i'll keep posting updates. and i appreciate your concern and feed back. thanks
Dr O
Veterinarian
ok, so we have our culprit.
i would advise neosporin antibiotic applied liberally around his vent and even squeezed inside his slit aiming towards his tail, once daily for about 5 days. if you have any prescription ointments like silver sulfadiazine or zinc sulfate even better.
give her and him some rest for another month at a minimum. he may be ok to go after that, but it is still too early for her imo.
i would advise neosporin antibiotic applied liberally around his vent and even squeezed inside his slit aiming towards his tail, once daily for about 5 days. if you have any prescription ointments like silver sulfadiazine or zinc sulfate even better.
give her and him some rest for another month at a minimum. he may be ok to go after that, but it is still too early for her imo.
will do, thanks again for helping out and the advice. i really appreciate it.
