Eye infection

[Adi.milka]

Hello! I recived Gustav as a christmas present, and i was verry happy. We knew nothing about chameleons but we did our research an him and I adapted quickly. He was 5-6 months old in december. After 3 weeks since i got him he shed, but recently he had a problem with one eye. I took him to the vet, and he gave me some dexamethasone drops for his eye. I gave his the drops for 1 week it was fine, but after the treatment was over the simptoms came back. It keeps rubbing his eye on the branch and the eye swollens and then it gets sucked in. This morning i found his with mucus around his both eyes. I will attach a video if is possible. I need some guidace please, because I don’t think the vets in my area are familiar with reptiles. Thank you!
P.S. I can only post picures, so i gook a screen shot of the video where he moves his eye

 

[MissSkittles]

Hi and welcome. Sorry that your little guy is having problems and we’re always happy to do our best to help. Just need a bit more info though. Also some pics of the entire enclosure, including the lights will be a big help.
What supplements are you using and how often for each one? Maybe attach some pics of the bottles.
What types of lights are you using for uvb and basking? What is your lighting schedule?
What are your temperatures and humidity usually at?
How often do you mist or spray? Are you using a fogger? When or how often?
I’d like to see some better or clearer pics of Gustav. To attach a video, you need to first upload it to a platform like YouTube or Instagram and then copy the link here.

 

[Adi.milka]

Hello! And thank you for the fast response. I attached a picture of the “poopoo” i understand that you can tell alot about his healt by his poop and all the pictures you asked. I do not have a monitor for humidity and heat. I moist 2/day 30 before the lights go on and off. And i have a cup that’s dripping an i fill it 3-4 times/day beacuse it has 40ml. After I wrote here it really scare me because i took him in my plam and he didn’t move at all. I tought he died But the he just jumped out of my hand and almost fell to the ground. I tried to give him vitamin A but I can’t open his mouth to give it to him properly
I give him calcium+D3 once a week and multivitamins 1 a month

 

[Adi.milka]

I’ve shut his uvb light because someone sugested that it might be too bright and that’s waht is bothering him and caused the mucus in his eyes this morning

 

[nightanole]

A few things.
This cfl light is junk, its meant for 12-18" tall anole/gecko tanks, not 3-4ft tall chameleon cages. You really need to get a T5HO 6% or 5.0 from arcadia or zoomed.

For most poofiness i recommend zero vitamin/mineral supplements for 30 days. Only dust with plain calcium without D3 during this time. if the swelling goes down, then slowly reintroduce the supplements, odds are you are just putting too much on, or need a slightly different brand thanks to your unique snowflake.

 

[Adi.milka]

Thak you! I will do that. Just to be clear, “cfl light” is the uv bulb, not the heating bulb, right?
I google it, and yes, it’s the uv light. Thank you!

 

[MissSkittles]

@nightanole gave some good advice. The supplements you have are to be given just one feeding twice a month. For example, on the 1st and 14th of the month, you’ll use the multivitamin. Then on the 7th and 28th you’ll use the calcium with D3. All of the other feeding you need to use a calcium without D3. I do not advise giving any additional vitamin A unless your veterinarian tells you to. If you want a much easier and better way to give the D3 and multivitamins, there are a couple of combination products that are excellent - Repashy calcium plus LoD or Reptivite with D3 (Make sure it says ‘with D3’). Attaching pics of each below.If you get one of those, then you don’t need the calcium with D3 and the multivitamin - toss them aside. You’ll still use the calcium without D3 at every feeding, and then one feeding every other week you’ll use either the Repashy or Reptivite. That’s it! Super easy and both of the combo products contain a form of vitamin A that is better than the Fluker’s and most others have.
The type of uvb light that you have isn’t able to provide the levels that your guy needs. The long T5 with either Arcadia 6% or ReptiSin 5.0 uvb bulb is the best to use. Then the basking area will need to be about 9” (23 cm) below the light. The basking light is probably much too strong and is too hot, especially for an enclosed glass space. Also, keeping the lights inside the tank puts your guy at a very big risk for getting burns. I’m guessing you’re in Europe, where that is the standard. It‘s best to have your lights on for 12 hours a day and no lights at all at night.
Your chameleon may not be so big right now, but he will be soon and he definitely needs a much bigger enclosure. The standard minimum is 60x60x120 cm or equivalent. Unless you are somewhere very dry, I would suggest getting a screen or hybrid enclosure. It’s easy to block off the back or sides if needed with screen and still have excellent air flow. Then you need to create a tree inside. You can use something like a garden trellis secured to the enclosure frame to attach branches and vines to. Put in lots of branches and give him many little roads to travel on. You also need lots of live plants. Pothos is excellent for chameleons. Our veiled friends like to nibble on their plants and it only takes one bite of a fake leaf to cause a potentially fatal bowel obstruction.
It’s very important to monitor temperature and humidity levels. The ideal basking temp for your guy is around 85 (29c) and ideal daytime humidity is between 30-50%. At night you want it to cool down and it’s ok if it gets as low as around 55 (12c).
Getting these things correct all will contribute to your guys eye and general health. Young chameleons can very easily have problems if even the smallest piece of their care is wrong. There is more, but I think I’ve talked more than enough for now. Here are some resources that will help you with everything. https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/ https://www.neptunethechameleon.com/ Do ask any questions you have. Hopefully with the corrections in care and some time, your handsome guy will be feeling much better and be healthy.

 

[Adi.milka]

Thak you! I will do that. Just to be clear, “cfl light” is the uv bulb, not the heating bulb, righti

@nightanole gave some good advice. The supplements you have are to be given just one feeding twice a month. For example, on the 1st and 14th of the month, you’ll use the multivitamin. Then on the 7th and 28th you’ll use the calcium with D3. All of the other feeding you need to use a calcium without D3. I do not advise giving any additional vitamin A unless your veterinarian tells you to. If you want a much easier and better way to give the D3 and multivitamins, there are a couple of combination products that are excellent - Repashy calcium plus LoD or Reptivite with D3 (Make sure it says ‘with D3’). Attaching pics of each below.If you get one of those, then you don’t need the calcium with D3 and the multivitamin - toss them aside. You’ll still use the calcium without D3 at every feeding, and then one feeding every other week you’ll use either the Repashy or Reptivite. That’s it! Super easy and both of the combo products contain a form of vitamin A that is better than the Fluker’s and most others have.
The type of uvb light that you have isn’t able to provide the levels that your guy needs. The long T5 with either Arcadia 6% or ReptiSin 5.0 uvb bulb is the best to use. Then the basking area will need to be about 9” (23 cm) below the light. The basking light is probably much too strong and is too hot, especially for an enclosed glass space. Also, keeping the lights inside the tank puts your guy at a very big risk for getting burns. I’m guessing you’re in Europe, where that is the standard. It‘s best to have your lights on for 12 hours a day and no lights at all at night.
Your chameleon may not be so big right now, but he will be soon and he definitely needs a much bigger enclosure. The standard minimum is 60x60x120 cm or equivalent. Unless you are somewhere very dry, I would suggest getting a screen or hybrid enclosure. It’s easy to block off the back or sides if needed with screen and still have excellent air flow. Then you need to create a tree inside. You can use something like a garden trellis secured to the enclosure frame to attach branches and vines to. Put in lots of branches and give him many little roads to travel on. You also need lots of live plants. Pothos is excellent for chameleons. Our veiled friends like to nibble on their plants and it only takes one bite of a fake leaf to cause a potentially fatal bowel obstruction.
It’s very important to monitor temperature and humidity levels. The ideal basking temp for your guy is around 85 (29c) and ideal daytime humidity is between 30-50%. At night you want it to cool down and it’s ok if it gets as low as around 55 (12c).
Getting these things correct all will contribute to your guys eye and general health. Young chameleons can very easily have problems if even the smallest piece of their care is wrong. There is more, but I think I’ve talked more than enough for now. Here are some resources that will help you with everything. https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/ https://www.neptunethechameleon.com/ Do ask any questions you have. Hopefully with the corrections in care and some time, your handsome guy will be feeling much better and be healthy.


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Thank you so much for your time and your elaborate answer! I’m starting to gahter all the things that you mentioned to make his life easier, and will start building a bigger enclosure. Thank you once again

 

[MissSkittles]

Yes, the cfl is the uvb. It stands for Compact Flourescent Light. Don’t hesitate to share your progress or ask any other questions you may have.

 

[Adi.milka]

Hello! I’ve got updates. I builded a bigger terarium, the lights that you sugested, are not available in my region or are super-expensive. But I’ve put in a dome, with 5.0 rainforest uvb and a 10w heating bulb.
The vet did’t helped at all with the eye problem, I even got a swap test of the mucus that the eye is making but he never called to tell me the results. I’m giving him plain calcium and every twice a month supliments. But the problem with the eye is still there. It developes a mucus on his eye ball, it gets dry, and then he rubs it of here are some pictures with the new enclosure and with the rubed off thingy

 

[Beman]

Hello! I’ve got updates. I builded a bigger terarium, the lights that you sugested, are not available in my region or are super-expensive. But I’ve put in a dome, with 5.0 rainforest uvb and a 10w heating bulb.
The vet did’t helped at all with the eye problem, I even got a swap test of the mucus that the eye is making but he never called to tell me the results. I’m giving him plain calcium and every twice a month supliments. But the problem with the eye is still there. It developes a mucus on his eye ball, it gets dry, and then he rubs it of here are some pictures with the new enclosure and with the rubed off thingy

What exactly are you using for UVB? I do not see a linear T5HO fixture which is why I ask and are the only ones recommended for chameleons. Incorrect UVB lighting can cause multiple major issues but also can compromise their immune system.


What are you doing for misting the enclosure? If the chameleon has something stuck in the eye turret he needs the water to be able to clear it. If it is an infection you have to get antibiotics for it to go away.

 

[Adi.milka]

What exactly are you using for UVB? I do not see a linear T5HO fixture which is why I ask and are the only ones recommended for chameleons. Incorrect UVB lighting can cause multiple major issues but also can compromise their immune system.


What are you doing for misting the enclosure? If the chameleon has something stuck in the eye turret he needs the water to be able to clear it. If it is an infection you have to get antibiotics for it to go away.

Hello! The linear lights that everyone recomends are not available in my region. ( I live in Romania) At least not at an afordable price. I just found one, without the tube for 130$. So I used a double dome with a 13w 5.0 UVB that I got when it was in a smaller enclosure and just now I orderd a 26W 5.0 UVB
For misting I use a misting machine from Aliesxpress that mists 10 seconds 30 minutes before lights go on and 10 secons 30 minutes before lights go out. After readig your instructions, i will increase the misting time. I’m addins some photos also. I’m open to new suggestions

 

[Beman]

Hello! The linear lights that everyone recomends are not available in my region. ( I live in Romania) At least not at an afordable price. I just found one, without the tube for 130$. So I used a double dome with a 13w 5.0 UVB that I got when it was in a smaller enclosure and just now I orderd a 26W 5.0 UVB
For misting I use a misting machine from Aliesxpress that mists 10 seconds 30 minutes before lights go on and 10 secons 30 minutes before lights go out. After readig your instructions, i will increase the misting time. I’m addins some photos also. I’m open to new suggestions

So yes you will want to increase the misting sessions... But he needs one when he is awake. They do not clean their eyes when they sleep. Typically you want a 2 minute session.

I never like to be negative but the 5.0 CFL UVB is not adequate. He will start showing MBD and honestly I am surprised he is not showing the outwards signs already. Their bones will start to bow and become misshaped. Internally the bones become brittle and easier to break. With this bulb he would literally need to be within a few inches of it and directly below it. I will share a graphic so you can see what I mean. Along with the graphic for the chameleon kit that is available in the states, this comes with the exact same uvb bulb you are using.

 

[Adi.milka]

So yes you will want to increase the misting sessions... But he needs one when he is awake. They do not clean their eyes when they sleep. Typically you want a 2 minute session.

I never like to be negative but the 5.0 CFL UVB is not adequate. He will start showing MBD and honestly I am surprised he is not showing the outwards signs already. Their bones will start to bow and become misshaped. Internally the bones become brittle and easier to break. With this bulb he would literally need to be within a few inches of it and directly below it. I will share a graphic so you can see what I mean. Along with the graphic for the chameleon kit that is available in the states, this comes with the exact same uvb bulb you are using.

 

[Adi.milka]

most of the time he stays in the green area that I drawed. He is under the bulb at a depth of 10 cm. Sorry, I don’t know how to transform in inches. But the new bulb that I ordered it’s 26w double the power of the curent one, and he’s basking under this bulb from december. I was worried about MDB but there’s no sign of it. I took him out in the sun one time, and i fed him one every 2 weeks calcium+D3 but recently I’ve stoped because i tought that was the cause of his eye infection.

 

[Beman]

most of the time he stays in the green area that I drawed. He is under the bulb at a depth of 10 cm. Sorry, I don’t know how to transform in inches. But the new bulb that I ordered it’s 26w double the power of the curent one, and he’s basking under this bulb from december. I was worried about MDB but there’s no sign of it. I took him out in the sun one time, and i fed him one every 2 weeks calcium+D3 but recently I’ve stoped because i tought that was the cause of his eye infection.

So the sun and D3 have nothing to do with the eye... But I would not give D3 every feeding you can overdose them.

Due to where he is basking he should be able to get UVB. hopefully you will not have any issues with MBD. Like I said I see no external signs of it and this would be linked to how close he can get to the bulb. So this would be a good thing since you can not get the correct UVB linear bulbs.