Egg bound?

sienadesteno

New Member
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My lady is looking slightly chunky and I was wondering if anyone can tell if she looks like she might need to start laying unfertilized eggs?
 

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Thehippie

Chameleon Enthusiast
yes, she will lay and soon, please fill out the form in the link in my signature and post pics so we can help you out
 

sienadesteno

New Member
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care? Lady Panther Chameleon in my care for 4 months
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon? Once or twice every few weeks
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders? Gutloaded crickets and dusted worms. Gutloaded with cricket quencher, calcium cricket food, and carrots.
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule? Reptivite
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking? Misting and a dripper, she enjoys drinking from the mister more.
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites? Has not been tested for parasites, normal poops.
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions? XLarge screen cage, very big
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule? reptisun 5.0 uvb light and 60 watt blue heat bulb
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps? 80-100 degrees
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity? 50-60 percent humidity
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind? 2 pothos plants
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor? Near a window, 3 feet off the ground
  • Location - Where are you geographically located? Northern Florida

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about. Concerned about her possible eggs
 

Syreptyon

Chameleon Enthusiast
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care? Lady Panther Chameleon in my care for 4 months
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon? Once or twice every few weeks
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders? Gutloaded crickets and dusted worms. Gutloaded with cricket quencher, calcium cricket food, and carrots.
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule? Reptivite
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking? Misting and a dripper, she enjoys drinking from the mister more.
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites? Has not been tested for parasites, normal poops.
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:

  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions? XLarge screen cage, very big
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule? reptisun 5.0 uvb light and 60 watt blue heat bulb
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps? 80-100 degrees
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity? 50-60 percent humidity
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind? 2 pothos plants
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor? Near a window, 3 feet off the ground
  • Location - Where are you geographically located? Northern Florida

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about. Concerned about her possible eggs

There are some things that need to be improved in here and some other things we need you to be more specific about.

(1) Your gutload needs major impriovement. Calcium cricket "food" is not a real gutload and will not provide anything useful for your chameleon. Carrots are not a great gutload item either. Fine to use in addition to more healthy options, but not by itself. If you want to use a commercially available gutload, then try Cricket Crack. None of the fluker's products are any good. Fresh produce is always the best option, though. Collard greens, mustard greens, turnip greens, escarole, alfalfa, bee pollen, papaya, etc. Look at the resource section here for more (and better) options.

(2) Supplements. We need a lot more detail here, unless you only use one dusting items. To be clear, what you need to be doing is [a] calcium without vitamin D3 at every feeding, calcium WITH vitamin D3 twice a month, and [c] a multivitamin twice a month

(3) How frequently do you mist? How long is east session?

(4) Blue heat bulbs are not recommended. Better to switch to a regular white incandescent bulb which will not distort the color in the enclosure

(5) That temperature range is C-R-A-Z-Y. 100 degrees is far too hot for a female panther. It should not go above 85 degrees.

(6) A picture of the full enclosure would be very helpful
 

sienadesteno

New Member
There are some things that need to be improved in here and some other things we need you to be more specific about.

(1) Your gutload needs major impriovement. Calcium cricket "food" is not a real gutload and will not provide anything useful for your chameleon. Carrots are not a great gutload item either. Fine to use in addition to more healthy options, but not by itself. If you want to use a commercially available gutload, then try Cricket Crack. None of the fluker's products are any good. Fresh produce is always the best option, though. Collard greens, mustard greens, turnip greens, escarole, alfalfa, bee pollen, papaya, etc. Look at the resource section here for more (and better) options.

(2) Supplements. We need a lot more detail here, unless you only use one dusting items. To be clear, what you need to be doing is [a] calcium without vitamin D3 at every feeding, calcium WITH vitamin D3 twice a month, and [c] a multivitamin twice a month

(3) How frequently do you mist? How long is east session?

(4) Blue heat bulbs are not recommended. Better to switch to a regular white incandescent bulb which will not distort the color in the enclosure

(5) That temperature range is C-R-A-Z-Y. 100 degrees is far too hot for a female panther. It should not go above 85 degrees.

(6) A picture of the full enclosure would be very helpful


image.jpg
image.jpg


her basking spot can reach to 100 degrees while the rest on her enclosure is around 80 degrees. she gets misted frequently and thoroughly, i will need to look into better gutloads as well.
 

Thehippie

Chameleon Enthusiast
do you have a lay bin for her. from what I can tell she doesn't have the proper uvb either, it needs to be linear, without this the calcium wont function properly in her body and she will be egg bound.
 

sienadesteno

New Member
she does have a linear uvb bulb and she has a laying bin with sand. since i have noticed she appears to be growing the eggs, she seems to be basking more frequently
 

sienadesteno

New Member
she does have a linear uvb bulb and she has a laying bin with sand. since i have noticed she appears to be growing the eggs, she seems to be basking more frequently

i have the reptisun uvb 5.0 bulb the exotic petstore suggested, that is equivalent to the long linear uvb bulbs i assume
 

Syreptyon

Chameleon Enthusiast
i have the reptisun uvb 5.0 bulb the exotic petstore suggested, that is equivalent to the long linear uvb bulbs i assume

You assume incorrectly. Your chameleon will not survive longterm with the bulb they sold you.
Linear UVB lights are not optional
 

Graves923

Chameleon Enthusiast
I would get a T5HO fixture 24" and I believe it would use a 22" long bulb. For a panther I would suggest using the 5.0 or 6% Arcadia as Syreptyon stated.

We always recommend linear bulbs. The compact you have focuses the UVB radiation into a narrow cone directly under the bulb. This can potentially cause eye irritation and will only benefit the chameleon if she sits directly under it for most of the day. Since the linear bulb goes across the whole enclosure, it spread the UVB throughout the enclosure so she will be exposed pretty much anywhere in the cage.
 

krikinit

Chameleon Enthusiast
The problem with CFLs was they used to emit uvc spectrum. That was supposedly resolved but the useful radiation is next to none. Active D3 is made in the body. Not having enough light means the body can not produce active d3. Supplemental d3 and oral d3 still have to travel through the same pathways to be absorbed. I would suggest Eps 27 of the Chameleon Breeders podcast. Lighting is not a uniform answer but @Syreptyon has you going the right direction. I use a %12 but i have a ton of cover for my panther to hide in/under.
 
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