Does she have eggs ?

Charley25

New Member
My chameleon has not changed colour at all she’s stayed bright green but she’s gone off food and won’t eat she’s not eaten for about 3-4 days taken a few photos not sure if they are lumps/eggs or not and also she’s started climbing very slow as if she’s weak very worried ?
 

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Charley25

New Member
This is her now in the laying bin just in case but they see to look like eggs on her back end ?
 

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SmallToes

Member
She says "Privacy please!!"
Haven't gotten eggs yet myself so I can't tell ya much, aside from congrats and hope it goes smoothly if that's what she's doing.
 

Charley25

New Member
She says "Privacy please!!"
Haven't gotten eggs yet myself so I can't tell ya much, aside from congrats and hope it goes smoothly if that's what she's doing.
Thank you I’m worrying I keep wanting to look over and check on her but I know they like privacy and don’t like been watched
 

Brodybreaux25

Chameleon Enthusiast
This is time sensitive!

I don't like the way she looks in that bin. Post pics of the entire:
-viv
-bin
-all supplements
-uvb source

Is that sand dry?
Did she make the dent shes sitting in or you?
 

Charley25

New Member
This is time sensitive!

I don't like the way she looks in that bin. Post pics of the entire:
-viv
-bin
-all supplements
-uvb source

Is that sand dry?
Did she make the dent shes sitting in or you?
She’s free range I weight her weekly she’s got all her light and uv put I’ve bought a separate laying bin the sand is wet enough so that you can make a tunnel with out it falling down I make the tunnel to test the sand and just let the tunnel for her she is hovering around the tunnel that I made she keeps putting her bum in it she’s got her water in there with her and food
 

Charley25

New Member
She’s free range I weight her weekly she’s got all her light and uv put I’ve bought a separate laying bin the sand is wet enough so that you can make a tunnel with out it falling down I make the tunnel to test the sand and just let the tunnel for her she is hovering around the tunnel that I made she keeps putting her bum in it she’s got her water in there with her and food
 

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AnamCara

Chameleon Enthusiast

The lay bin should not be a separate thing she stays in until she lays. It should be a permanent part of her enclosure/area. If she is removed and placed in a foreign location to lay she may not be comfortable enough to do so.

Please provide the information Brody asked for above -- he will not do you wrong.
 

Charley25

New Member
The lay bin should not be a separate thing she stays in until she lays. It should be a permanent part of her enclosure/area. If she is removed and placed in a foreign location to lay she may not be comfortable enough to do so.

Please provide the information Brody asked for above -- he will not do you wrong.
She’s free range that’s why she’s got a separate laying bin to where she normally is I’ve tried sending the photos to him but I’m new to this and not sure how to send them
 

AnamCara

Chameleon Enthusiast
She’s free range that’s why she’s got a separate laying bin to where she normally is I’ve tried sending the photos to him but I’m new to this and not sure how to send them

You post them the same way you posted the photos above.

If you are not able to keep her lay bin a part of her free-range then I would seriously consider getting her a normal screen or class combo enclosure. Have you free-ranged chameleons before? Are you measuring the UV output? How far above the free range are the lights?

So many questions! Pics are helpful -- but if you'd fill out the How to Ask for Help form in the health clinic that would be the best. Please attach photos.
 

kinyonga

Chameleon Enthusiast
So she's never in a cage...not even at night?

How can she bask? What's the temperature in the free range area? How can she sit under the UVB light?

How do you feed her? What do you use as supplement/dust for the insects? Do you feed/gutload the insects properly? With what?

I agree with @The Wild One ...the lay bin should be near the free range and a vine/branch path should be made so she can get to it on her own. It needs to be warm enough there that she likes it too.

Is the free range near a window? Where do you live (state, country)?

You're making it very hard for us to help you.
 

Charley25

New Member
So she's never in a cage...not even at night?

How can she bask? What's the temperature in the free range area? How can she sit under the UVB light?

How do you feed her? What do you use as supplement/dust for the insects? Do you feed/gutload the insects properly? With what?

I agree with @The Wild One ...the lay bin should be near the free range and a vine/branch path should be made so she can get to it on her own. It needs to be warm enough there that she likes it too.

Is the free range near a window? Where do you live (state, country)?

You're making it very hard for us to help you.
She’s not in a cage at all she loves her tree she’s got a basking spot that she comes down to the tree is next to the window I’ve already previously said I dust with calci dust I feed her loctus and some times meal worms the little ones she doesn’t like the big ones and she has wax worms every now and then and no I don’t gut load the insects I’m new to this I’m trying my best I didn’t know you had to gut load ? I buy from the pet store and feed her them sorry not been able to reply been at work I’m going to get a branch and put her laying bin next to her tree so she can get to it
 

SmallToes

Member
She's gonna need a home with high humidity and enough foliage to hide her from well anything that moves. She will thrive more so than you've seen before! Your chameleon requires specific UVB fixtures, be sure they follow these guidelines.
247792
 
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Brodybreaux25

Chameleon Enthusiast
I hope the OP or @Brodybreaux25 will post back here in the end to let us know what the results were/are. It helps us all learn.
Actually I confused this member for another I was helping yesterday. I still haven’t received the detailed answers I asked for....

@Charley25 last time I’m going to ask, we need detailed answers and pics.
Please fill out the “how to ask for help” form and post your answers back here. Quality pictures will help us help you.



Chameleon Info:

◦ Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?

◦ Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?

◦ Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?

◦ Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?

◦ Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?





◦ Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?



◦ History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.



Cage Info:

◦ Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?

◦ Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?

◦ Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?





◦ Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?

◦ Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?

◦ Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?

◦ Location - Where are you geographically located?



Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.



--------------

Please Note:

1 The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.

2 Photos can be very helpful.
 

kinyonga

Chameleon Enthusiast
@Charley25 said.."She’s not in a cage at all she loves her tree she’s got a basking spot that she comes down to the tree is next to the window".....here's a thread that talks about free ranging that you might want to look at...
https://www.chameleonforums.com/threads/free-ranging-chameleons.171661/

You said..."I’ve already previously said I dust with calci dust"...we need to know if it's phos free calcium. Does it have D3 or vitamin A in it and if so, we need to know if the vitamin A is prOformed (beta carotene) or prEformed (palmitate or retinol). This is important because the his and calcium need to be in balance as do the D3 and vitamin A, etc.
We recommend dusting the insects just before feeding them to the chameleon with a phos free calcium powder at almost every feeding lightly and twice a month lightly with a phos free calcium/D3 powder and twice a month lightly with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene source of vitamin A. You may need to use a prEformed vitamin A once in a while too if you see signs that it's needed.

The reasons for this way of supplementing...
Most feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phos so we dust with calcium to make up for it.they would eat different insects in the wild that we can't provide in captivity. Those insects would give them the right balance.

D3 is needed for the chameleon to be able to use the calcium in its system. D3 comes from supplements or from UVB from direct sunlight ( not passing through glass or plastic) or a UVB light. D3 from the sun won't build up in the system as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it at will. D3 from supplements can build up and lead to health issues. Vitamin A from beta carotene (prOformed) sources won't build up but from prEformed sources will. by dusting with D3 so seldom we provide some D3 and let the chameleon produce the rest from its UVB exposure. We dust with beta carotene containing powder because it's safe and if necessary use the preformed to adjust if we have to.

You said.." I feed her loctus and some times meal worms the little ones she doesn’t like the big ones and she has wax worms every now and then and no I don’t gut load the insects I’m new to this I’m trying my best I didn’t know you had to gut load ? I buy from the pet store and feed her them"...wax worms are fatty and should be fed as a treat. Meal worms aren't recommended often either. Crickets are a good staple because they can be easilyngutloaded/fed to be healthy food. Silkworms, hornworms (not from the wild), roaches are good foods too.

Feeding/gutloading the insects will make the insects healthy and thus help the chameleon. Recommended things to use for this are greens such as dandelions, kale, endive, escarole, collards, mustard greens, etc and veggies such as carrots, squash, zucchini, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, etc. And a little fruit like apples, pears, melon, berries, etc.

You said..." I’m going to get a branch and put her laying bin next to her tree so she can get to it"...glad to hear that!

I hope this will help explain things and you'll see why we ask so many questions. We just want to see chameleons do well with the people who own them. Sometimes we come off as too demanding....but it's because we care and we know how fast chameleons can go down hill once it starts.
 
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