Deremensis
- Thread starter Tateg
- Start date
canzoman
New Member
They are great animals. They do not move around all that much and like it a little on the cooler side.
I had them with a full time humidifier and temps got to about 85 at basking and as low as 60-65 at night. They prefer high 70's low 80F. I am in NJ so I ran the humidifier full time and they did well. Females I felt ate much more than the males. Just my pers opinion.
Keep them well hydrated. Water dripping daily is a must.
I had them with a full time humidifier and temps got to about 85 at basking and as low as 60-65 at night. They prefer high 70's low 80F. I am in NJ so I ran the humidifier full time and they did well. Females I felt ate much more than the males. Just my pers opinion.
Keep them well hydrated. Water dripping daily is a must.
Tateg
New Member
ok thank you is it at all possible for a pair to live together, but move the female when shes gravid? also my female eats a lot more than the male also what are the females gravid colours? and lastly where did you get your humidifier and what kind is it as I need a new one Thanks for the help
canzoman
New Member
I had mine together for about 1 week. Then my female began gaping at him and it was time to separate them. If you look at my older posts I actually uploaded pics of my gravid female. Mine turned from green to brown. I got my humidifier at Target. But you can pretty much get one at WalMart or any place similar.
luevelvet
Avid Member
In our experience, T. deremensis prefer low 70's with 72-74 being the most comfortable for them. Ours begin to gape when temps reach above 78. We don't provide hot spots, since they really aren't necessary and only add to potential over heating (though during winter months when temps may dip below 70 during the day, a small 20 or 40 watt basking spot is appreciated).
They require copious amounts of water, especially newly acquired WC's. We mist 3 times per day at 10 mins per session. We found our hatchlings to require even more misting throughout the day to remain properly hydrated.
Give them a heavily planted enclosure (schefflera seems to be a favorite of theirs). Glass or screen depends on what the ambient RH of the room sits at. If you're below 50 or 60%, then it may not be a bad idea to consider a custom glass enclosure that can hold humidity in. Cool mist humidifiers work well for some keepers with screen cages.
All of that water demands a drainage system, so be prepared to move that mist water out somehow or things will start to get moldy etc. They do take to the ground, when males are looking to mate, or if they can't find a suitable environment. When they're not looking to mate and are happy, they will quite literally sit in one spot for long (weeks even) periods of time. Make sure to not feed them too much as their sedentary nature doesn't demand it. 6 or so appropriately sized feeders insects should be offered every day or two during the summer, less during the winter. Just keep an eye on their weight.
Lighting is kept simple. We use Exo-Terra 5.0 linear florescent's and nothing else.
I forgot to add, they should be kept separate at all times except when mating and even then it should be supervised. If you haven't witnessed it yet, they use their tongues to attack each other! Too much chance for injury in our book.
Well, that is a quick wrap up of how we care for them. Good luck and let us know how they do!
Luis
They require copious amounts of water, especially newly acquired WC's. We mist 3 times per day at 10 mins per session. We found our hatchlings to require even more misting throughout the day to remain properly hydrated.
Give them a heavily planted enclosure (schefflera seems to be a favorite of theirs). Glass or screen depends on what the ambient RH of the room sits at. If you're below 50 or 60%, then it may not be a bad idea to consider a custom glass enclosure that can hold humidity in. Cool mist humidifiers work well for some keepers with screen cages.
All of that water demands a drainage system, so be prepared to move that mist water out somehow or things will start to get moldy etc. They do take to the ground, when males are looking to mate, or if they can't find a suitable environment. When they're not looking to mate and are happy, they will quite literally sit in one spot for long (weeks even) periods of time. Make sure to not feed them too much as their sedentary nature doesn't demand it. 6 or so appropriately sized feeders insects should be offered every day or two during the summer, less during the winter. Just keep an eye on their weight.
Lighting is kept simple. We use Exo-Terra 5.0 linear florescent's and nothing else.
I forgot to add, they should be kept separate at all times except when mating and even then it should be supervised. If you haven't witnessed it yet, they use their tongues to attack each other! Too much chance for injury in our book.
Well, that is a quick wrap up of how we care for them. Good luck and let us know how they do!
Luis
eisentrauti
Avid Member
There isn't much to add, just one very important point: Trioceros deremensis is the typical sit and wait predator. So it's very very important not to feed too much and just give them feeders like crickets, flies, dubias etc. No "super"worms or other similar fat stuff
