Dark chameleon and white spots on back

[andre_24]

Hello everyone,
I’m not sure if this is usual chameleon shedding or not. But to summarize I left for vacations and left my chameleon to my friends care. Around the time I came back (around a week and an half ago) my chameleon has remained dark and dull colors with white spots on her back. I’m pretty sure she’s just shedding but I’m not absolutely sure as I feel like she would’ve already started shedding by now… She’s also been moving around a lot and has been traveling to the bottom of the enclosure since. I’m not sure if this is normal behavior and would appreciate a second opinion to ease my mind (,:

 

[Ghostbirb]

Hello everyone,
I’m not sure if this is usual chameleon shedding or not. But to summarize I left for vacations and left my chameleon to my friends care. Around the time I came back (around a week and an half ago) my chameleon has remained dark and dull colors with white spots on her back. I’m pretty sure she’s just shedding but I’m not absolutely sure as I feel like she would’ve already started shedding by now… She’s also been moving around a lot and has been traveling to the bottom of the enclosure since. I’m not sure if this is normal behavior and would appreciate a second opinion to ease my mind (,:

Hmmm I think I see faint receptive colors, my biggest worry is she is looking for a place to lay eggs. veiled chameleons can lay eggs without a male. do you have a laybox for her?

 

[Beman]

Dark colors like this are typical when they are spooked or angry. Lay bin would be needed for her. But there is something going on with her left eye. Looks like it has a cap over the eye. This would make it very hard for her to see.

The way the cage on that bottom edge is bent away is a danger. Note that is a wide enough space for her to try to squeeze out of.

 

[Sonny13]

The way the cage on that bottom edge is bent away is a danger. Note that is a wide enough space for her to try to squeeze out of.

Great catch

 

[andre_24]

Hmmm I think I see faint receptive colors, my biggest worry is she is looking for a place to lay eggs. veiled chameleons can lay eggs without a male. do you have a laybox for her?

Yesss I do! You were completely right she started digging this morning. Though she completely ignored the lay bin and started digging in a plant pot instead

 

[andre_24]

Dark colors like this are typical when they are spooked or angry. Lay bin would be needed for her. But there is something going on with her left eye. Looks like it has a cap over the eye. This would make it very hard for her to see.

The way the cage on that bottom edge is bent away is a danger. Note that is a wide enough space for her to try to squeeze out of.

Yes, the cage came like that when I bought it. I will try fixing that as soon as possible! Also, what would you recommend I do about her left eye?

 

[andre_24]

Hmmm I think I see faint receptive colors, my biggest worry is she is looking for a place to lay eggs. veiled chameleons can lay eggs without a male. do you have a laybox for her?

She dug around in the plant pot all day and around the time the misters turned on (9 pm) she moved to a branch. She also covered the hole she dug, but how do I make sure that she laid all her eggs? What signs should I look out for to make sure she’s not egg bound?

 

[Gloriawood]

She dug around in the plant pot all day and around the time the misters turned on (9 pm) she moved to a branch. She also covered the hole she dug, but how do I make sure that she laid all her eggs? What signs should I look out for to make sure she’s not egg bound?

Hanging out towards the bottom of the enclosure and eyes closed would be the major signs. Feed her well for a couple days and make sure she has plenty of water. Hornworms or silkworms for extra hydration. Take the plant out and dig up the eggs. Let us know how many she laid. It’s a good sign that she covered her hole and moved up. This is what they are supposed to do when they are finished.

 

[Beman]

Yes, the cage came like that when I bought it. I will try fixing that as soon as possible! Also, what would you recommend I do about her left eye?

I would review your entire husbandry first off to see if anything needs correction that could be linked to the eye issue. But for eye issues like this I always additionally recommend a good reptile vet. They may have to flush the eye, it just depends on what the actual issue is. But the eye ball should not have a coating to it like hers has.

 

[andre_24]

Hanging out towards the bottom of the enclosure and eyes closed would be the major signs. Feed her well for a couple days and make sure she has plenty of water. Hornworms or silkworms for extra hydration. Take the plant out and dig up the eggs. Let us know how many she laid. It’s a good sign that she covered her hole and moved up. This is what they are supposed to do when they are finished.

Alrighttt thank you! I dug them out and counted 33 eggs. Are they supposed to be hard or is it okay if they’re squishy? Also is it normal that she’s moving less in her enclosure now and mostly basking? Should I be feeding her every day for a few days or still just every other day?

 

[andre_24]

Alrighttt thank you! I dug them out and counted 33 eggs. Are they supposed to be hard or is it okay if they’re squishy? Also is it normal that she’s moving less in her enclosure now and mostly basking? Should I be feeding her every day for a few days or still just every other day?

 

[Gloriawood]

Alrighttt thank you! I dug them out and counted 33 eggs. Are they supposed to be hard or is it okay if they’re squishy? Also is it normal that she’s moving less in her enclosure now and mostly basking? Should I be feeding her every day for a few days or still just every other day?

So 33 is a slightly large clutch. I think the aim is like 25. But I’ve seen waaaaay more on here. So that’s not too bad. I’ll let @MissSkittles or @Beman answer your other questions. I’m not that familiar with females and don’t think I could provide adequate info.

 

[Beman]

It is a larger clutch. Feed her well for a few days but I wanted to ask if you have by chance gotten a fecal sample tested. She looks very thin through the casque and limbs. Especially the casque this is too thin which can indicate a health issue like parasites. Even though they are eating well they do not gain the weight needed due to a parasite load.

@MissSkittles can address specifics about female husbandry.

 

[MissSkittles]

Hi! Congrats on your pretty girl’s laying and your surviving the anxiety of it. I agree that a full husbandry review would be best - adding the questions below for you to copy/paste with your answers. I’d also really like to see what her entire enclosure looks like.
You’ll want to feed your girl well for a couple of days after laying to help her rebuild some strength. It really takes so much out of them. I like giving silkworms and hornworms especially for not just nutrition, but hydration. Hornworms are basically just bags of water, but they do have some calcium in them. Then you want to feed her 3-4 appropriately sized feeders, 3 days a week (plus treats). Make sure your basking temp is no higher than 80F. This will help not only reduce the number of eggs she produces, but can reduce the frequency too…and may even stop all laying. If you haven’t yet read my blog. https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/veiled-chameleon-laying-101.2488/
Here’s the husbandry review questions.

Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
• Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
• Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
• Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
• Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
• Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
• History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
• Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
• Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
• Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
• Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
• Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
• Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:

1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
2. Photos can be very helpful.

 

[andre_24]

I would review your entire husbandry first off to see if anything needs correction that could be linked to the eye issue. But for eye issues like this I always additionally recommend a good reptile vet. They may have to flush the eye, it just depends on what the actual issue is. But the eye ball should not have a coating to it like hers has.

Chameleon Info:
Your Chameleon - She’s a female veiled chameleon. when I asked the vendor how old she was he said she was almost a year old. I’ve had her for 10 months and I bought her at a reptile show. She's mostly a vivid green with some dark, light greens and occasional teals.
Handling - I usually only try handling her when I feed her by putting bugs on my arm and having her crawl to me to eat the bugs and crawl back to her enclosure once she's done.
Feeding - I’m currently only feeding her medium sized dubias (4 every other day) with an occasional hornworm or superworm. Instead of dubias sometimes ill integrate bsfl and instead of superworms sometimes I treat her to a waxworm. I feed her around 2-4 depending on when I get home from school. I gut load the dubias with carrots, apples, sweet potatoes, and bee pollen pellets.
Supplements - I’m currently using the repti calcium by zoo med (without D3) for every feeding. I also have the zoo med reptivite vitamins (without D3) and the PangeaCal calcium (with D3). I’m giving her Reptivite and PangeaCal twice a month (the 1st of the month and the 15th).
Watering - I have a mister set up in the morning and at night (9am and 9pm) and it mists for 2 minutes. I also keep a homemade dripper on the enclosure and it drips onto the leaves and to the drainage system i have (around the time I feed her and drips for 40 mins). Every other night I leave a humidifier on for her it stays on for around 5 hours. I sometimes see her drink from the mister, but never from the dripper.
Fecal Description - darkish brown with a bit of moisture (it occasionally looks a bit slimy). Her urates are mostly white with a bit of yellow. She has never been tested for parasites.
History - I bought her on Sep 23, 2023 in the NARBC reptile show

Cage Info:
Cage Type - 24x24x48 screen type and I taped vinyl curtain liners on 2 sides to prevent the misters from spraying my walls.
Lighting - I use the Pro T5 12% uvb light and the jungle dawn by arcadia. I also have a heat lamp fixture at a corner for basking. All the lights turn on at 9am and they turn of at 9pm.
Temperature - during the day it’s around 83 in the basking area and the bottom is around 77. In the night with the humidifier on it usually drops to the mid 60s.
Humidity - during the day it’s around 40-50% and at night it stays around high 60-75 . I mist in the mornings and at night and I leave my humidifier on every other night. I use a zoo med hydrometer.
Plants - i am only using live plants. I have 2 pothos, 2 philodendron, a dwarf schefflera, a monstera, and a dracaena Cinthia. I am planning on adding new plants to her enclosure, but I'm waiting on them to propagate to do so.
Placement - Her enclosure is set up in a corner in my room, diagonal from the entrance and near a window. She gets little to no disturbances in this placement and the window doesn't get too hot as it's facing other houses. The enclosure is taller than I am by around 4 inches (I'm 5'4).
Location: Texas


Current Problem - Too many eggs in her recent clutch, she seems to thin, and might have eye problems..

 

[andre_24]

Hi! Congrats on your pretty girl’s laying and your surviving the anxiety of it. I agree that a full husbandry review would be best - adding the questions below for you to copy/paste with your answers. I’d also really like to see what her entire enclosure looks like.
You’ll want to feed your girl well for a couple of days after laying to help her rebuild some strength. It really takes so much out of them. I like giving silkworms and hornworms especially for not just nutrition, but hydration. Hornworms are basically just bags of water, but they do have some calcium in them. Then you want to feed her 3-4 appropriately sized feeders, 3 days a week (plus treats). Make sure your basking temp is no higher than 80F. This will help not only reduce the number of eggs she produces, but can reduce the frequency too…and may even stop all laying. If you haven’t yet read my blog. https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/veiled-chameleon-laying-101.2488/
Here’s the husbandry review questions.

Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
• Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
• Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
• Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
• Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
• Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
• History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
• Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
• Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
• Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
• Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
• Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
• Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:

1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
2. Photos can be very helpful.

Thank you so much! The hornworms just arrived today, though I can’t find any place that sells silkworms
Here are some pictures of her and her enclosure:
- the first one is how she currently looks
- 2nd and 3rd is how she was recently
- 4th is her enclosure recently (a lot of the plants I had died while I was on vacations, so I’ll be adding more asap).

 

[MissSkittles]

I have to get ready for work in a few, but let me at least get this started now. Splitting it into two parts and my responses in bold.
Your Chameleon - She’s a female veiled chameleon. when I asked the vendor how old she was he said she was almost a year old. I’ve had her for 10 months and I bought her at a reptile show. She's mostly a vivid green with some dark, light greens and occasional teals.
Handling - I usually only try handling her when I feed her by putting bugs on my arm and having her crawl to me to eat the bugs and crawl back to her enclosure once she's done. Excellent. You’re building trust with her which is important for you both.
Feeding - I’m currently only feeding her medium sized dubias (4 every other day) with an occasional hornworm or superworm. Instead of dubias sometimes I’ll integrate bsfl and instead of superworms sometimes I treat her to a waxworm. I feed her around 2-4 depending on when I get home from school. You need to give a bit more variety more often. Your amount is good, but as previously said you need to feed just 3 days a week. Also, it’s better if you can feed her in the morning so she has more time to bask and digest. I gut load the dubias with carrots, apples, sweet potatoes, and bee pollen pellets. Very good. You could/should add a bit more. Attaching graphics below.
Supplements - I’m currently using the repti calcium by zoo med (without D3) for every feeding. I also have the zoo med reptivite vitamins (without D3) and the PangeaCal calcium (with D3). I’m giving her Reptivite and PangeaCal twice a month (the 1st of the month and the 15th). Perfect, but I’m hoping you’re giving the multivitamin and D3 on alternating weeks and not the same time. If you want to simplify, you can get ReptiVite with D3 which is given one feeding every other week and no additional D3 needed. Repashy Calcium Plus LoD can also be used instead of a seperate multivitamin and calcium with D3.
Watering - I have a mister set up in the morning and at night (9am and 9pm) and it mists for 2 minutes. I also keep a homemade dripper on the enclosure and it drips onto the leaves and to the drainage system i have (around the time I feed her and drips for 40 mins). Every other night I leave a humidifier on for her it stays on for around 5 hours. I sometimes see her drink from the mister, but never from the dripper. Perfect
Fecal Description - darkish brown with a bit of moisture (it occasionally looks a bit slimy). Her urates are mostly white with a bit of yellow. She has never been tested for parasites. It’s always a good idea to have a fecal done. Vets do require an appointment/exam by law but it’s a great way to meet your exotics vet before ever needing them.
History - I bought her on Sep 23, 2023 in the NARBC reptile show

More to come.

 

[MissSkittles]

Cage Info:
Cage Type - 24x24x48 screen type and I taped vinyl curtain liners on 2 sides to prevent the misters from spraying my walls. Excellent. If you find your humidity is ever too high, you could switch to a fabric shower curtain.
Lighting - I use the Pro T5 12% uvb light This is too strong. You’ll either need to get a 6% bulb or increase the distance between light and basking area to about 11”. Bulbs need to be change yearly, so if you haven’t changed it yet, it’s a good time to do so. and the jungle dawn by arcadia. I also have a heat lamp fixture at a corner for basking. All the lights turn on at 9am and they turn of at 9pm. Perfect
Temperature - during the day it’s around 83 Just a touch too warm. However, if you lower your basking area, that would reduce the temp. If you are getting the 6% uvb bulb, you could instead elevate your basking light a couple of inches. The small wire baskets at the dollar store are an easy way to raise lights. in the basking area and the bottom is around 77. In the night with the humidifier on it usually drops to the mid 60s. Nice temp drop at night
Humidity - during the day it’s around 40-50% and at night it stays around high 60-75 . I mist in the mornings and at night and I leave my humidifier on every other night. I use a zoo med hydrometer. Good.
Plants - i am only using live plants. I have 2 pothos, 2 philodendron, a dwarf schefflera, a monstera, and a dracaena Cinthia. I am planning on adding new plants to her enclosure, but I'm waiting on them to propagate to do so. It can be a challenge to keep a well planted leafy enclosure with our veiled ladies. I try to always keep some extra plants and am always starting clippings in a glass of water.
Placement - Her enclosure is set up in a corner in my room, diagonal from the entrance and near a window. She gets little to no disturbances in this placement and the window doesn't get too hot as it's facing other houses. The enclosure is taller than I am by around 4 inches (I'm 5'4). Excellent
Location: Texas


Current Problem - Too many eggs in her recent clutch, she seems to thin, and might have eye problems.. So I definitely recommend starting her in ‘the regimen’ to reduce egg production, which will in effect add to her lifespan. A visit with a good vet who has experience with chameleons would be best to help figure out what is going on with her eye. I don’t see anything in your husbandry that would cause that. Maybe another member will see something that I don’t. All in all, your husbandry is great.
Here’s the vet list. There’s quite a few in Texas, so hopefully one will be near you.

 

[ChamelaChameleon]

If you are in the DFW area, Summer Tree Animal Hospital is great with both of my Chams.

 

[andre_24]

Cage Info:
Cage Type - 24x24x48 screen type and I taped vinyl curtain liners on 2 sides to prevent the misters from spraying my walls. Excellent. If you find your humidity is ever too high, you could switch to a fabric shower curtain.
Lighting - I use the Pro T5 12% uvb light This is too strong. You’ll either need to get a 6% bulb or increase the distance between light and basking area to about 11”. Bulbs need to be change yearly, so if you haven’t changed it yet, it’s a good time to do so. and the jungle dawn by arcadia. I also have a heat lamp fixture at a corner for basking. All the lights turn on at 9am and they turn of at 9pm. Perfect
Temperature - during the day it’s around 83 Just a touch too warm. However, if you lower your basking area, that would reduce the temp. If you are getting the 6% uvb bulb, you could instead elevate your basking light a couple of inches. The small wire baskets at the dollar store are an easy way to raise lights. in the basking area and the bottom is around 77. In the night with the humidifier on it usually drops to the mid 60s. Nice temp drop at night
Humidity - during the day it’s around 40-50% and at night it stays around high 60-75 . I mist in the mornings and at night and I leave my humidifier on every other night. I use a zoo med hydrometer. Good.
Plants - i am only using live plants. I have 2 pothos, 2 philodendron, a dwarf schefflera, a monstera, and a dracaena Cinthia. I am planning on adding new plants to her enclosure, but I'm waiting on them to propagate to do so. It can be a challenge to keep a well planted leafy enclosure with our veiled ladies. I try to always keep some extra plants and am always starting clippings in a glass of water.
Placement - Her enclosure is set up in a corner in my room, diagonal from the entrance and near a window. She gets little to no disturbances in this placement and the window doesn't get too hot as it's facing other houses. The enclosure is taller than I am by around 4 inches (I'm 5'4). Excellent
Location: Texas


Current Problem - Too many eggs in her recent clutch, she seems to thin, and might have eye problems.. So I definitely recommend starting her in ‘the regimen’ to reduce egg production, which will in effect add to her lifespan. A visit with a good vet who has experience with chameleons would be best to help figure out what is going on with her eye. I don’t see anything in your husbandry that would cause that. Maybe another member will see something that I don’t. All in all, your husbandry is great.
Here’s the vet list. There’s quite a few in Texas, so hopefully one will be near you.

Thank you so much! I do use a 6% uvb bulb i had to recheck that but i will definitely find something to elevate the heat bulb. Since I now need to feed her 3 days a week does mon weds fri work? I checked out the vet list and thankfully there are some near me so I'll book an appointment to ger her fecal done asap. I have one last question, after egg laying is it usual for my chameleon to be basking more often? She's still eating normally, but moving less often and has been mostly basking and sleeping in the basking area.