Couple more Newbie questions...

Wearfx

New Member
So far this forum has been awesome for finding info, asking questions and getting knowledgeable feedback on questions. So, THANK YOU!
We do have a few more questions...
We got our male Ambilobe a little over 6 weeks ago from a local breeder. He was 'about 4mos' old then, and I now understand why everyone uses the phrase 'about'!
Anyway, he sems to be doing great. But still a little confused on a few things:

*SHEDDING- Shed a week after we got him home. Then again 3 weeks later and is starting to shed again- only 17 days later. Is this ok? Do certain conditions cause this to happen sooner? Hand mist more often?

*UVB- we were told to use a UVB 5. But everything I've read says that using it above the screen minimizes it. We were using the UVB5 12" on his smaller 16x16x30. But I've ordered a 24" UVB-10 (T8) For his new 2x2x4 enclosure. Is this too much? He has lots of foliage to hide, but I don't want to possibly harm him

*FEEDERS- If we can switch completely to Dubia roaches, is that advised? I can't handle the cricket smell! I've read they're actually healthier, but that seems to be from the people selling them!

*LIGHTS- Using a two light fixture for UVB. Can I put a regular T8 led or other in the second spot? Using this just to light the enclosure. Are there certain lights that I can't use or will harm him or his eyes?

He was spending a lot of time upside down on his 'ceiling', but that has cut down.


His cage is a constant 45-70% humidity at all times now. We use an automatic mist system with 2 heads. Runs for 30 seconds every hour, 7am-7pm.
Pretty much dry leaves by the time it mists again, couple drops here and there.
No standing water.
His basking spot runs 75-83 with a 60w bulb. 7am-7pm
Currently using a 12" Reptisun 5 with a 24" Reptisun 10 due here Monday.
Just finished moving him up to a 24x24x48.
Lots of live plants- ficus, umbrella and pothos. Organic soil with large smooth rocks covering the soil.
Eating about 10-12 medium crickets daily. However, we have been swapping out crickets for dubia roaches trying to get him to eat them. He is SLOWLY coming around to the idea.
We dust with Repticalcium w/o D3 every day. One day a week we use with D3 or vitamins w/ D3 (alternating weeks)
He doesn't LOVE being handled, but he tolerates it. We try to do this every few days, just for a few minutes each time. (He was handled daily before we brought him home.)

Any other key points we should be concerned with?
Thanks for any input!!
 

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I'll do my best to answer:

Shedding- this happens often early on. If conditions are right itll come off easily.

Uvb- your cage looks nicely filled out, maybe get the plants raised up slightly just to dappled the light a bit and you could get away with the reptisun 10 without problem

Feeders- roaches are an amazing staple feeder, yes better than crickets. They are cleaner believe it or not, very nutritious, and have strong immune systems which resist parasites. IMO orangeheads are the best for feeding response. Many chams get sick of dubia fast, especially Panthers. If possible get a few different roach colonies and you'll have staple feeders for life.

Lights- plant lights do a good job of lighting up the enclosure and are perfectly fine.

I would change your mist schedule, 45 seconds isn't doing much. Chameleons generally need a few minutes of consistent water to stimulate them into drinking, cleaning their eyes, etc. I personally do 7-10 minutes right around time the lights turn on. Then I do another 5 minutes an hour before lights go off. They don't need or benefit from constant short mistings, a nice rain shower is much better.

With all that said it looks like you're off to an excellent start. The cage is well filled out and everything seems to be in line. As long as the gutloading/diet is in place, you should be good.
 
Thanks so much! I did forget to mention our gut loading. We TRY and feed them at least two days before offering them to Drax. Sometimes it's only a day. We keep mustard greens, red bell peppers, apples and other various left over fresh veggies in the bin with feeders at all times. Also use the water pellets (?) The clear balls of water.
I will try and move some of the pothos up higher. I'm using magnets inside solo cups (under dirt level) and attaching to magnets on outside of cage. Plenty strong to hold them in place but can be slid around with strength.
Thanks again!
 
Got the Reptisun 10 yesterday. Now he's literally hanging upside down on the screen underneath the bulb! I have plenty of branches and sticks going all directions and under plenty of plants as well as wide open just inches below the ceiling. But he's lined up right under the UVB bulb. It's a two bulb fixture and the other bulb is a basic daylight bulb. Neither are warm. He has a basking light 10" away and the temp says 82, so I don't think he's doing it for warmth.
Can this harm him?
He finished shedding yesterday, if that makes any difference.
 
No. Juveniles seem to love doing this. I think they do it to stress out their newbie parents. As they grow and their body weight increases they stop. As long as the cage mesh isn't getting hot (like right under the basking bulb) should be OK.
 
No. Juveniles seem to love doing this. I think they do it to stress out their newbie parents. As they grow and their body weight increases they stop. As long as the cage mesh isn't getting hot (like right under the basking bulb) should be OK.
What does it mean when my veiled Cham keeps opening his mouth for no reason. I’m using the dripper and was wandering if he’s not drinking
 

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If he's gaping while he's actively basking he is attempting to cool himself down. Chams bask in order to warm up their insides. As they reach "operating temperature" they may start gaping shortly before moving out of the heat. If he's gaping when you are watching him and firing up excited colors, he may be trying to intimidate YOU, the intruder. If he is sitting quietly somewhere, dark or dull colored, not eating or drinking, maybe with eyes shut, he may be sick.
 
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