Chameleon Acting Different After Changing Lights??

caseywagz

Member
I replaced my veiled's light today from a normal bulb to these two bulbs that came with the cage I bought, and about half an hour later he had already begun to start acting different. He usually just sits at the top and basks, but after switching out the one light for these two, he's been going up and down his cage, around the coconut fiber floor, and wanting out of his cage in general. What are the reasons he's acting like this all the sudden after changing his light?? Are these not the right lights? Thanks!

IMG_9927.jpg
 
These lights aren't very good. You need a linear uvb t8 high output and a regular 65-100w bulb or a flood light. Coil bulbs don't emit enough uvb and there was an issue with them years ago with burning reptiles eyes. The issues have since then been fixed, but the bad ones are still in circulation and I advise against them in any respect.
 
I would purchase a T5HO Reptisun 5.0 UVB bulb, and a T5HO fixture to go with it. The bulb will be labeled 2 inches shorter than the fixture (Though normally the fixture comes with a T5HO 5.0 bulb). Make sure the length you get will span across the whole enclosure for full UVB coverage. For your heating bulb just grab a 60-75w household bulb and regular heat lamp fixture, such as a clamp lamp or a reptile lamp with a dimmer if you deem it necessary. Raise the heat lamp up off the screen 4-6 inches. Your basking temperatures should be around 85, assuming he is a juvenile. Ambient temps should be around 70-75.
 
Your chameleon will die without a linear uv light period!! Unless it gets at least 30 minutes of natural sunlight a day
 
Before I put in those lights as pictured above, all I was using was a regular household lamp and that's what he's been under the entire time I've had him (about 5 months) and there hasn't been a problem. Should I switch back to that for now?
 
Before I put in those lights as pictured above, all I was using was a regular household lamp and that's what he's been under the entire time I've had him (about 5 months) and there hasn't been a problem. Should I switch back to that for now?
I would switch back and get proper lighting as soon as you can. I would take that light kit back and get the proper uvb.
 
I would switch back and get proper lighting as soon as you can. I would take that light kit back and get the proper uvb.
That light combo came with the cage I bought, so I am not sure it is returnable by itself. I've been searching the internet for the T5HO uv bulb and the fixture that goes with it, but I want to purchase them together. Does petco/petsmart sell anything worth a damn? Ugh.
 
Links:

UVB fixture (comes with 5.0 T5HO bulb) https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-2605...s=t5ho+uvb+reptisun+5.0&qid=1586732722&sr=8-2

Heat fixture w/ dimmer, I use this one since my heat bulb is too strong by itself https://www.amazon.com/Flukers-Rept...ords=heat+lamp+w+dimmer&qid=1586732785&sr=8-1

Any heat bulb will do really as long as it its plain off white/white color and puts off enough heat, whether is it a reptile specific one or just a household bulb.

So you bought the chameleon kit.. could you fill out this form for me? Its likely your husbandry is off because the kit itself is filled with completely incorrect items for a chameleon.

Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.
Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?
Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:
  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
 
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?: Male veiled chameleon, had him for about 5 months, estimated 7 months old.
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?: Every few days; he loves going out of the cage and crawling around.
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?: Crickets, blueberries, cucumbers and lettuce. Crickets every day without D3, and every other week with D3, and lettuce and blueberries every few days. Cricket-Quencher for water source, bananas, carrots, and cricket-specific food (the wheat-looking flakes).
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?: Not sure of the brand but I use both D3 and non D3 powder.
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?: I have an automatic mister that goes off every hour for 15 seconds, and I also have a Mr. Dripper but he doesn't drink from it. He will sometimes shoot at the falling water droplets on the wall. The lettuce and cucumber are probably his biggest source of water right now.
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?: Never been tested, and his poops are mostly yellow to white, along with the usual brown piece. One time is was orange, meaning he was dehydrated.
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you?:
Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?: 18Lx36H, plexiglass and screen combo. (Picture below).
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?: As described before, a normal household lightbulb that gets pretty warm.
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?: I have a gauge that I use; it usually stays around 87-92 degrees but lowers when the water turns on.
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?: Don't know the humidity levels. I spray the entire cage with water along with the auto mister.
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?: Three live plants; A bromeliad, golden pothos, and the third one I forgot the name of. but they are safe for the veiled chameleons.
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?: On my bedroom dresser, about halfway to my ceiling fan.
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?: Colorado


IMG_9728.jpg



I sincerely hope to hear back soon!!!

Thanks a ton,

Casey
 
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?: Male veiled chameleon, had him for about 5 months, estimated 7 months old.
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?: Every few days; he loves going out of the cage and crawling around.
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?: Crickets, blueberries, cucumbers and lettuce. Crickets every day without D3, and every other week with D3, and lettuce and blueberries every few days. Cricket-Quencher for water source, bananas, carrots, and cricket-specific food (the wheat-looking flakes).
So at his age you should feed him 8-12 feeders per day. I would feed a variety (Silkworms, BSFL, BSF, roaches, moths, ect), not just crickets. For gut loading you want to include lots of different veggies , greens and fruits. Its also recommended to include some sort of commercial gutload.. such as bug burger or cricket crack. I will post a gutloading sheet at the end. What commercial gutload are you using?

I also wouldn't give him too many veggies/fruits.. perhaps once or twice a week.


Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?: Not sure of the brand but I use both D3 and non D3 powder.

So you are going to want to purchase a vitamin powder too.. I use Reptivite without d3.

Your schedule should be calcium w/o d3 every day, calcium w/d3 ONCE every other week, and then a multivitamin w/o d3 ONCE every other week (alternate weeks to the d3). Dust feeders lightly.. they shouldn't look like powdered donuts.
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?: I have an automatic mister that goes off every hour for 15 seconds, and I also have a Mr. Dripper but he doesn't drink from it. He will sometimes shoot at the falling water droplets on the wall. The lettuce and cucumber are probably his biggest source of water right now.
So I would mist for 2-4 minutes once the morning, and once in the evening. I also have a short midday misting that is about 20 seconds long. My mistings take place when the basking light is off. All of my cage functions are controlled by timers.. aside from feeding!

My schedule:

Uvb and grow light on at 7am, Misting at 7:30am for 3.5 minutes, basking light on at 8am, basking light off at 12pm, short 20 sec misting at 12:15pm, basking light back on at 12:30pm, basking light off at 6pm, misting at 6:30pm for 4.5 minutes, uvb and grow light off at 7pm. Then my fogger kicks in from 10:30pm to 5:30am.

  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?: Never been tested, and his poops are mostly yellow to white, along with the usual brown piece. One time is was orange, meaning he was dehydrated.
I would get him tested when you get the chance.

As long as his urate is at least 50% white you are good.

  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you?:
Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?: 18Lx36H, plexiglass and screen combo. (Picture below).
I would invest in a bigger cage for him. Such as a 2x2x4, perhaps a DragonStrand Medium Clear Side if you want to go all out. People also successfully used the zoomed large tall/extra tall cages.. though I don't have specifics.
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?: As described before, a normal household lightbulb that gets pretty warm.
You need to get the uvb I linked.. and as long as the bulb you are using currently gets the basking spot to around 85, you can keep using it.
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?: I have a gauge that I use; it usually stays around 87-92 degrees but lowers when the water turns on.
Make sure you are measuring temperatures with a digital thermometer.. not the circle/dial ones. They can be up to 10 degrees off.

Ambient temps should be 70-75. Basking spot should be 85-87 at his age. Nighttime temps should be around 60-70.

  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?: Don't know the humidity levels. I spray the entire cage with water along with the auto mister.
Get a hygrometer asap.

Humidity during the day should be around 30-40. Nighttime should be 70-100.

  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?: Three live plants; A bromeliad, golden pothos, and the third one I forgot the name of. but they are safe for the veiled chameleons.
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?: On my bedroom dresser, about halfway to my ceiling fan.
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?: Colorado
    Screen Shot 2020-01-09 at 6.55.10 PM.png
    Screen Shot 2020-01-09 at 6.55.18 PM.png
 
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?: Male veiled chameleon, had him for about 5 months, estimated 7 months old.
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?: Every few days; he loves going out of the cage and crawling around.
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?: Crickets, blueberries, cucumbers and lettuce. Crickets every day without D3, and every other week with D3, and lettuce and blueberries every few days. Cricket-Quencher for water source, bananas, carrots, and cricket-specific food (the wheat-looking flakes).
So at his age you should feed him 8-12 feeders per day. I would feed a variety (Silkworms, BSFL, BSF, roaches, moths, ect), not just crickets. For gut loading you want to include lots of different veggies , greens and fruits. Its also recommended to include some sort of commercial gutload.. such as bug burger or cricket crack. I will post a gutloading sheet at the end. What commercial gutload are you using?

I also wouldn't give him too many veggies/fruits.. perhaps once or twice a week.


Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?: Not sure of the brand but I use both D3 and non D3 powder.

So you are going to want to purchase a vitamin powder too.. I use Reptivite without d3.

Your schedule should be calcium w/o d3 every day, calcium w/d3 ONCE every other week, and then a multivitamin w/o d3 ONCE every other week (alternate weeks to the d3). Dust feeders lightly.. they shouldn't look like powdered donuts.
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?: I have an automatic mister that goes off every hour for 15 seconds, and I also have a Mr. Dripper but he doesn't drink from it. He will sometimes shoot at the falling water droplets on the wall. The lettuce and cucumber are probably his biggest source of water right now.
So I would mist for 2-4 minutes once the morning, and once in the evening. I also have a short midday misting that is about 20 seconds long. My mistings take place when the basking light is off. All of my cage functions are controlled by timers.. aside from feeding!

My schedule:

Uvb and grow light on at 7am, Misting at 7:30am for 3.5 minutes, basking light on at 8am, basking light off at 12pm, short 20 sec misting at 12:15pm, basking light back on at 12:30pm, basking light off at 6pm, misting at 6:30pm for 4.5 minutes, uvb and grow light off at 7pm. Then my fogger kicks in from 10:30pm to 5:30am.

  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?: Never been tested, and his poops are mostly yellow to white, along with the usual brown piece. One time is was orange, meaning he was dehydrated.
I would get him tested when you get the chance.

As long as his urate is at least 50% white you are good.

  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you?:
Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?: 18Lx36H, plexiglass and screen combo. (Picture below).
I would invest in a bigger cage for him. Such as a 2x2x4, perhaps a DragonStrand Medium Clear Side if you want to go all out. People also successfully used the zoomed large tall/extra tall cages.. though I don't have specifics.
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?: As described before, a normal household lightbulb that gets pretty warm.
You need to get the uvb I linked.. and as long as the bulb you are using currently gets the basking spot to around 85, you can keep using it.
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?: I have a gauge that I use; it usually stays around 87-92 degrees but lowers when the water turns on.
Make sure you are measuring temperatures with a digital thermometer.. not the circle/dial ones. They can be up to 10 degrees off.

Ambient temps should be 70-75. Basking spot should be 85-87 at his age. Nighttime temps should be around 60-70.

  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?: Don't know the humidity levels. I spray the entire cage with water along with the auto mister.
Get a hygrometer asap.

Humidity during the day should be around 30-40. Nighttime should be 70-100.

  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?: Three live plants; A bromeliad, golden pothos, and the third one I forgot the name of. but they are safe for the veiled chameleons.
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?: On my bedroom dresser, about halfway to my ceiling fan.
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?: ColoradoView attachment 263351View attachment 263352
Thank you so very much for your info! It is so greatly appreciated.
 
No problem.. just be sure to process my adjustments and make the changes as soon as you can.
 
Before I put in those lights as pictured above, all I was using was a regular household lamp and that's what he's been under the entire time I've had him (about 5 months) and there hasn't been a problem. Should I switch back to that for now?

The chameleon needs UVB to produce enough vitamin D3 to use the calcium in its system. Although it might be possible to provide it with supplements there is no way to know if you're overdosing it...and if you are you will cause the chameleon to develop MBD. You may not be seeing the signs of it yet but chances are you will sooner or later.
The regular household bulb is good for a basking light butninwould recommend the long linear reptisun 5.0 tube light for UVB.

You said..."Not sure of the brand but I use both D3 and non D3 powder"...how often for each and what brands? You also need a vitamin powder.
 
I replaced my veiled's light today from a normal bulb to these two bulbs that came with the cage I bought, and about half an hour later he had already begun to start acting different. He usually just sits at the top and basks, but after switching out the one light for these two, he's been going up and down his cage, around the coconut fiber floor, and wanting out of his cage in general. What are the reasons he's acting like this all the sudden after changing his light?? Are these not the right lights? Thanks!

View attachment 263328
I have both types of lighting on different enclosures and both chamys are healthy. The one thing I would do is get that blue bulb out of there and use a simple 60W frosted bulb. It's probably too hard on your pets eyes. Also make sure there is about a foot between the bottom of the fixture and where the chamy basks. Going down is not unusual. It just means they have had enough light and want to cool down. Doing it often means they're getting too hot and you need to reduce the wattage.
 
Back
Top Bottom