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Chad10672

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We have a veiled cham not sure the sex we have had him/ her for about 6 weeks we think she was about 2 or 3 months when we got her . I feed her crickets dozen or so a day I gutload them with fluckers high calcium. Dust the crickets for the first two days after we get them then I just give her the crickets after they have been eating the calcium diet I have for them we handle her a few times a week,I spray 3 or 4 times a day for about a minute each time and have a dripper for her I have seen her drink from drops on the cage screen ,seems to have normal poop its white followed by brown formed poop the cage is 16x16x30 screen .lighting is a zilla t8 and a basking bulb 75 wat I turn it on at 7am turn it off at 7pm the temp stays around 80 and the humidity stays between 50 and 60 . We live in Indiana the cage is by the wall in the living room
 
Here are a few pics
 

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Fill the "help from". I can say that your UVB lamp is far far away from your cage. Also you should dust the crickets before you give them to the cham. The basking temp should be 90F. Fill the HELP FORM so the other guys could help you. Do you use this compact uvb bulb ?
 
We have a veiled cham not sure the sex we have had him/ her for about 6 weeks we think she was about 2 or 3 months when we got her . I feed her crickets dozen or so a day I gutload them with fluckers high calcium. Dust the crickets for the first two days after we get them then I just give her the crickets after they have been eating the calcium diet I have for them we handle her a few times a week,I spray 3 or 4 times a day for about a minute each time and have a dripper for her I have seen her drink from drops on the cage screen ,seems to have normal poop its white followed by brown formed poop the cage is 16x16x30 screen .lighting is a zilla t8 and a basking bulb 75 wat I turn it on at 7am turn it off at 7pm the temp stays around 80 and the humidity stays between 50 and 60 . We live in Indiana the cage is by the wall in the living room

Dusting crickets before actually putting them in the cage to be eaten does nothing. Crix will groom the dust off of themselves very quickly. There are much better cricket diets than the one you are using. I didn't see any mention of a herp multivitamin either. You should be feeding her insects freshly dusted with a calcium dust that does NOT contain vitamin A every day. Every two weeks you need to add a calcium dust that DOES contain vitamin A to her insects. You also need to dust with a herp multivitamin dust every two weeks.

Agree. Your UV emitting light is much too far away. Your cham needs to be able to get within about 18" of the bulb to get the benefit. Zillas are not great quality UV lights. Also, the cage temperature should be allowed to drop at least 10 degrees at night. A constant 80 F will exhaust her and contribute to health problems. The cage temp can safely drop to the upper 50s at night. NO visible lights at night.
 
Dusting crickets before actually putting them in the cage to be eaten does nothing. Crix will groom the dust off of themselves very quickly. There are much better cricket diets than the one you are using. I didn't see any mention of a herp multivitamin either. You should be feeding her insects freshly dusted with a calcium dust that does NOT contain vitamin A every day. Every two weeks you need to add a calcium dust that DOES contain vitamin A to her insects. You also need to dust with a herp multivitamin dust every two weeks.

Agree. Your UV emitting light is much too far away. Your cham needs to be able to get within about 18" of the bulb to get the benefit. Zillas are not great quality UV lights. Also, the cage temperature should be allowed to drop at least 10 degrees at night. A constant 80 F will exhaust her and contribute to health problems. The cage temp can safely drop to the upper 50s at night. NO visible lights at night.
The light is only 12" from the top of the cage? We do give her the multivitamin twice a month
 
The light is only 12" from the top of the cage? We do give her the multivitamin twice a month

UVB light weakens exponentially after just a few inches and is further weakened when it passes through screen. Best thing to do is put the UVB light fixture directly on the cage top.

The Heat lamp is what you do not want directly on the screen
 
UVB light weakens exponentially after just a few inches and is further weakened when it passes through screen. Best thing to do is put the UVB light fixture directly on the cage top.

The Heat lamp is what you do not want directly on the screen
Ok good I have moved the UVB to the cage , the heat lamp is about 4" from the top ,should I get another bulb for th UVB?
 
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