Brown feet ?
- Thread starter JordynJay
- Start date
jpowell86
Chameleon Enthusiast
Welcome to the Forums!
It looks like stuck shed to me. I would try moistening her feet by wetting a q-tip and rubbing it on the affected areas. I have also seen people use saline solution in the same way. Whatever you do, don't try to pull it off dry. That can damage the skin underneath.
Where did you get her?
It looks like stuck shed to me. I would try moistening her feet by wetting a q-tip and rubbing it on the affected areas. I have also seen people use saline solution in the same way. Whatever you do, don't try to pull it off dry. That can damage the skin underneath.
Where did you get her?
jpowell86
Chameleon Enthusiast
Yes, warm..but not hot. They can burn very easily. Just be gentle. It may take multiple sessions to get the skin to release from the feet.
The second and third picture look like stuck shed. The first picture looks like she may have a bit of thermal burn on the interior side of her foot.
Is she in a screen enclosure? If so, does she hang upside down from the top?
Instead of me asking a thousand questions, if you would please, answer the questions on this form and post the answers back here. This form helps everyone get a better picture of her husbandry. Here is the link.
https://www.chameleonforums.com/how-ask-help-66/
The second and third picture look like stuck shed. The first picture looks like she may have a bit of thermal burn on the interior side of her foot.
Is she in a screen enclosure? If so, does she hang upside down from the top?
Instead of me asking a thousand questions, if you would please, answer the questions on this form and post the answers back here. This form helps everyone get a better picture of her husbandry. Here is the link.
https://www.chameleonforums.com/how-ask-help-66/
JordynJay
Member
- Your Chameleon - veiled, pretty sure female about 3 months and I bought her two days ago
- Handling - once a day or less
- Feeding - crickets, small / med size she eats about 4-8 a day for the past two days I've had her. I dust them with calcium
- Supplements - Repti calcium
- Watering - misting, waiting for dripper to arrive in mail. Mist 3-4x a day for about 1 min each time. She gets really freaked out by the misting I have not seen her drink yet
- Fecal Description - Have not seen poop yet waiting for that
- History - bought her from local petco on Saturday 1/16. She fell from about 3 feet the first day we got her ( I was really upset about it )
Cage Info:
- Cage Type - screen reptibreeze size large
- Lighting - 100 W basking heat light which is fixed about 8 inches above top of cage and Uvb light tube 5.0 at night she uses 40w blue night light
- Temperature - I have temp gauge in middle of cage it ranges from 60-80 F
- Humidity - I have a gauge in the middle of cage, it ranges from 40-70
- Plants - fake plants for now. I bought a pothos plant but need to properly clean so it is safe to use for her
- Placement - cahe is currently on floor in kitchen until stand is built. We are working on it currently. Top of cage is about 3 feet from floor.
- Location - MA USA
jpowell86
Chameleon Enthusiast
Awesome, thank you for doing that!
So, her reaction while misting is very normal. One thing you can do is make sure that the water in the bottle is very very warm. I heat mine in the microwave before spraying enclosures with little ones in it. Just make sure and test the water by spraying your arm and hand first to make sure it is not too hot. The spraying and displacing of the water will cool it off as well. The warmer water will be much more pleasing to her. She won't react the same way as cold water hitting her.
The enclosure style was a good choice. I like the fact that you bought her a pothos for the enclosure....now go by two more. Lol. The more live plants in there with her, the better. Humidity will be more easily maintained, more leaves equal more drinking opportunities and the ability to hide is very important..especially when chameleons are this size. You will also need more horizontal branches running throughout the enclosure. This is important for thermoregulation.
What are your temps at night when lights go off? Because if the temps don't fall below 65 in the house, then you really need to ditch the blue night light. I'm guessing you bought this for the purpose of keeping her warm at night. Chameleons actually require a drop in temperature every night. So trying to maintain the same level of heat 24/7 is not healthy for the chameleon. In fact, I have seen people let their temps drop below 65 at night and still be okay...although I don't recommend it for this particular species.
You're doing a good job by dusting her feeders with calcium daily. You need to include vitamin once a month as well. Does your calcium show to have D3 or not?
I know that it is impossible to resist the urge to handle her right now. But letting her settle in for a little bit with no handling will really benefit her in the long run. Chameleons are masters at disguising their stress, especially when being this young. People often think that their puffed up postures and crazy colorations are constant indicators of mood/stress...and while that can be the case, they can also be holding lots of stress without showing any indicators. For instance, if you get her out and she closes her eyes. Many people think that this is the chameleon calming down and accepting your hand as a secure resting place. This is false. This is a stressed state.....that is just one example.
Remember that female veileds need a laying bin once they reach sexual maturity. Are you versed on this?
Once you get the cage off the ground, this will help as well.
When you do see the poop, make sure and note what color the urate is. If it is white, then she is plenty hydrated and if it has orange tones then she is not.
There is a great possibility that you knew this information, but I just thought I would share in case you didn't!! There are also great care resources here on the Forums!
So, her reaction while misting is very normal. One thing you can do is make sure that the water in the bottle is very very warm. I heat mine in the microwave before spraying enclosures with little ones in it. Just make sure and test the water by spraying your arm and hand first to make sure it is not too hot. The spraying and displacing of the water will cool it off as well. The warmer water will be much more pleasing to her. She won't react the same way as cold water hitting her.
The enclosure style was a good choice. I like the fact that you bought her a pothos for the enclosure....now go by two more. Lol. The more live plants in there with her, the better. Humidity will be more easily maintained, more leaves equal more drinking opportunities and the ability to hide is very important..especially when chameleons are this size. You will also need more horizontal branches running throughout the enclosure. This is important for thermoregulation.
What are your temps at night when lights go off? Because if the temps don't fall below 65 in the house, then you really need to ditch the blue night light. I'm guessing you bought this for the purpose of keeping her warm at night. Chameleons actually require a drop in temperature every night. So trying to maintain the same level of heat 24/7 is not healthy for the chameleon. In fact, I have seen people let their temps drop below 65 at night and still be okay...although I don't recommend it for this particular species.
You're doing a good job by dusting her feeders with calcium daily. You need to include vitamin once a month as well. Does your calcium show to have D3 or not?
I know that it is impossible to resist the urge to handle her right now. But letting her settle in for a little bit with no handling will really benefit her in the long run. Chameleons are masters at disguising their stress, especially when being this young. People often think that their puffed up postures and crazy colorations are constant indicators of mood/stress...and while that can be the case, they can also be holding lots of stress without showing any indicators. For instance, if you get her out and she closes her eyes. Many people think that this is the chameleon calming down and accepting your hand as a secure resting place. This is false. This is a stressed state.....that is just one example.
Remember that female veileds need a laying bin once they reach sexual maturity. Are you versed on this?
Once you get the cage off the ground, this will help as well.
When you do see the poop, make sure and note what color the urate is. If it is white, then she is plenty hydrated and if it has orange tones then she is not.
There is a great possibility that you knew this information, but I just thought I would share in case you didn't!! There are also great care resources here on the Forums!
