Bringing home my first chameleon

rmichaelk

New Member
Hi Everyone,
I am buying a panther chameleon which is my first chameleon. I have read many caresheets and talked to a few breeders and have its cage ready. I was wondering if you folks have any tips on how to help the chameleon settle into its new environment and how to help it get used to me.

Also, I am getting different numbers from different sources about the humidity level. The humidity level in the location I have in mind is between 80% and 90%. Is this ok? Or should I use a dehumidifier and reduce the humidity level?

I have read that placing the cage in low traffic area is best for the chameleon. Where do you have your cages setup?

Thank you and Happy Holidays.
Michael
 
Congrats on your new cham!!! I wish I could help out with your new panther but I have a Jackson's Cham and don't know all the stats for humidity etc for your cham.

As for low traffic areas...any place where people or pets aren't constantly walking by all the time. Also where there isn't a draft or extreme temp from a window. Some people put them in their bedroom or their own room. When I got my Jackson's I actually blocked off a side with cardboard so that he couldn't see out for a few weeks and could acclimate to his new environment without being stressed by humans looking at him all the time...as time went by I'd take the card board off for an hour or two a day and then put it back on until he didn't seem stressed without it. Now he free ranges and pretty much goes where he wants.
Natalie
 
Hi Michael! Welcome to the forum!!!

80-90% humidity mught be a little high too wet and it can cause respiratory problems. I keep my cage about 50% then when its wet after misting its about 70%. Make sure you let the cage dry out between mistings :)

My cages are in a low traffic area the only traffic is to feed, mist and check temps.

I give my guys a couple days to get use to the enviroment. I just feed, mist and leave em be! When they seem to be content then I start offering food from my hand. It's a slow process but worth it.

Hope it helps! Congrats on the new baby! Post Pictures!
 
The other info is good. 50% when the cage is dry and up to 90% when misting is good, it should hang around 60-70% for an hour ot two after misting.

I keep my cages in an extra room so that they don't even have to see people most of the day. I've had my little female panther for a month or so now and she's settled in, but she still isn't used to me and runs away. So don't expect him to walk out onto your hand like so many lucky member's chameleons do. Hand feeding is unnatural so your Cham may not take to it as well as some. However, he may be one of those 'friendly' chameleons if you're lucky! :)

good luck and post lots of pics!
 
Thank you.

Thanks for the tip guys.

I am assuming that once I add the heat lamp the humidity near the basking area would drop a bit so I am going to check that out.

I will setup the cage next Monday, hopefully, and monitor it for a week before the chamelon arrives. This should give me enough time to mess around with things and get things right.

I will post pictures after the cham settles in. I am planning on leaving him alone for about 10 days, except for feeding, misting etc. But I will definitely post pictures :).

Thank you.
Michael
 
Take a really quick on when you pull him out then leave him alone after that :) Your house is realllly reallly humid... Beware of mold! Clean up the poop!
 
Your house is realllly reallly humid... Beware of mold!

Lol...yeh but it is actually my tortoise house. It is a 20' by 15' house that I built this year for my tortoises. I call it a house, instead of calling it a shed, because it has better windows, better insulation and better frame than our house :).

Michael
 
Thought I will give everyone a brief update on how I am planning on hosing the chameleon. The cham will be 6 months old when I receive it.

Cage - 18x18x36 - I am worried it might be a touch too big for this guy but the breeder recommended it so I am going with it and will keep a close eye to make sure he can catch his meal.

Plants - I am considering using Pothos and dwarf Umbrella plant.

Vines - I am using vines of two different diameters. I am going to place them diagonally from the top to the bottom.

Misting - I am going to setup a habba mist system and also plan to mist using a hand pump. I have been told that between mistings the cage should dry. What if the cage doesn't dry? Should I increase the temperature or mist less?

Humidity - The humdity in the room is about 85%. Once I add the heat lamp I am hoping that the humidity at the top level in the cage will come down a bit. But if it doesn't then should I consider adding a dehumdifier?

Temperature - The ambient temperature in the room is 70-75F. When I add a heat lamp should I add it in just one end or add two heat lamps so that the entire top vine has temperature that is warm enough for basking? In the summer the room is going to get very hot so I might have to add an air conditioner. Are there any known issues with having an AC in the room where the chameleon is housed?

Diet - I am considering feeding 1/2" crickets, about 10 a day, every day with calcium supplement without D3 every other day. Calcium supplement with D3 will be used once a week and vitamin supplement will be used once a week. Do panther chameleons eat any greens?

Ok...I know it might sound disgusting but I just have to ask, how does a chameleons poop look? It is supposed to be firm or is it like birds poop? None of the sites or caresheets talk about it so I am curious. With turtles and tortoises, even snakes, the poop is a good indicator of the health of the animal and I am wondering if it is the same with chameleons.

I think I have covered everything. Did I miss anything?

Thank you.
Michael
 
Cage size sounds fine, he only needs one basking bulb. Two would leave the top too hot. Habba misters have been called the habba spit because they don't really mist. They spit water at the chameleon, so I would suggest not buying one. I would use the calcium at least 4 times a week so that you know he won't get MBD. It's hard to over supplement plain calcium, unlike d3 and vit A. The poop is fairly firm, not runny. The urate should be white with or without a teeny tiny bit of yellow on the tip. The poop may become watery after feeding hornworms or silk worms, but other wise watery poop usually indicates parasites. The ac shouldn't cause problems unless it's blowing directly on the Cham. It may actually help with the humidity.
 
Thanks Jessica. That thread doesn't show the picture anymore but I did get to see good comparison pictures in one of the blog sites and I now know what to look for.

Michael
 
Thanks Jessica. That thread doesn't show the picture anymore but I did get to see good comparison pictures in one of the blog sites and I now know what to look for.

Michael

Sorry :eek: They were there when I searched for it!!

Glad you found some pictures!
 
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