Breed of my chameleon?

[Marievahernandez]

Hi! I'm a new chameleon owner and also new to this forum, and I was wondering if anyone can help me find the breed of my chameleon? My mom bought him off of a friend and so I haven't actually recieved much information on him, but I know he's 8 months. I'm not completely sure how to upload a picture on mobile, but I think it's attached

 

[jannb]

Welcome to the forums. You have a very handsome male veiled chameleon. I keep veileds and they are awesome chameleons to work with. They have so much personality. Mine are such a pleasure to care for. I also live in Florida. You can see my veileds here: https://www.chameleonforums.com/my-beautiful-veileds-142194/
I have a blog for new keepers that I'll attach below. It's how I recommend keeping veileds. https://www.chameleonforums.com/blo...-keepers-young-veiled-panther-chameleons.html

 

[kinyonga]

It's a male veiled chameleon.

 

[kinyonga]

Good timing Jann! We both answered at the same time!

You need to make sure the temperatures in the cage are right, he has exposure to the UVB light, proper supplementing and feeding/gutloading of the insects, etc.

 

[kinyonga]

Appropriate basking temperature allows for proper digestion and thus indirectly plays a part in nutrient absorption. Male veileds basking temperature should be in the mid to high 80'sF. You can use a regular household incandescent light bulb for the basking light.

The most recommended UVB light is the long linear Reptisun 5.0.

The crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms can be fed a wide range of greens such as collards, escarole, endive, dandelion greens, kale, etc and veggies such as carrots, sweet red pepper, squash, zucchini, sweet potato, etc.

The chameleon should be fed an assortment of insects such as crickets, hornworms raised on an appropriate diet, silkworms, roaches, locusts, superworms, once in a while wax worms, etc.


Since many of the feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorous we recommend dusting the insects just before feeding them to the chameleon with a phosphorous - free calcium powder to help make up for it.

They should also be dusted twice a month with a phosphorous - free calcium / D3 powder to ensure that it gets some D3 without overdosing it and leaving the chameleon to produce the rest of the D3 from its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system and lead to health issues while D3 from exposure to UVB won't likely as long as the chameleon can move in and out of the UVB when it wants to.

It's also recommended that you dust twice a month with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene ( prOformed ) source of vitamin A. PrOformed sources of vitamin A cannot build up in the system and lead to overdoses like prEformed sources can and will leave it up to you to decide whether the chameleon needs prEformed or not.

Hope this helps.

 

[Marievahernandez]

Thanks guys! I'll check out the blog link, it should be very helpful as I'm new and have many questions and kinyonga, I'm not sure about most of those requirements, but I'll be reading up on it, thanks

 

[Marievahernandez]

Oh, I started posting before you finished the long one, sorry

 

[Marievahernandez]

Well I've gotten him gourmet crickets, grasshoppers, and mealworms, but he doesn't want to eat any of it. I tried feeding him by hand, leaving them on a plate in his cage, and I've even gotten him feeding tongs, but he hasn't eaten in 6 days (when I got him). I guess this is a problem for a different thread though?

 

[Andee]

Gourmet? As in the dead ones in a can? Chameleons only eat live food.

 

[kinyonga]

Veiled chameleons only eat live insects but some of them will eat the same greens and veggies listed as crickets food...along with a LITTLE fruit such as apple, pear, melon, berries, etc.

 

[Marievahernandez]

Ohhhhh, I've been giving him already dead canned ones. He didnt eat any live ones for the first 2 or 3 days I had him so I switched to already dead. I'll switch back ASAP then, thanks sooooo much!