In addition to well-fed/gutloaded insects you can offer your veiled greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet red pepper, sweet potato, zucchini, etc.) and a SMALL amount of fruit (apple, pear, melon, berries, etc.) Spinach, cabbage, broccoli are not recommended.
These same greens and veggies can be used to feed your crickets, roaches, superworms, locusts, etc.
Its important to provide UVB for the chameleon. It can come from a UVB light (most often recommended...long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light) or from direct sunlight. Any UVB light should not pass through glass or plastic.
Appropriate temperatures will aid in digestion and thus indirectly in nutrient absorption.
Its important to supplement/dust the insects before feeding them to the chameleon.
Since many of the feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus, its important to dust at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to make up for it.
I dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder to ensure that the chameleon gets some d3 without overdoing it and leaving it to produce the rest of the D3 from its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system, but D3 produced from exposure to the UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it.
I dust twice a month with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene source of vitamin A. Beta carotene (prOformed) sources of vitamin A won't build up in the system like prEformed sources (acetate, retinol, retinyl, etc.) can. Excess prEformed vitamin A may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD.
Is it a male or female?
Hope this helps!
you should show us some pics 
