Black spots on top of nose?

kam!

New Member
I got this Veiled Chameleon girl on Sunday at Repticon. I noticed the day after that there are black spots on her nose. And I checked again tonight and they seem to be darker and bigger? I do not know if these are scabs from the bag or screen cage. Or if this is a more concerning problem.

Right now, I have fed her 3 hornworms and 8 dusted crickets with multivitamins and calcium. I will feed her again with calcium dusted and gutloaded crickets and dubia roaches on Thursday. She ate what I have given her recent and has even pooped (good progress??) I mist her cage twice a day and make sure water drops and have seen her drink multiple times.

For her enclosure, its not much but enough for her to hide and climb around. She has 5 big vine leaves, 2 on the right side, one on the left, and 2 on the back. She had hid at the top of the leaves and behind. She has a vine that leads from the top and the bottom.

Her lights are a 5.0 UVB light and a 60 W Daylight Blue bulb, might up the wattage as the temperature only reads around 75-79° near her basking area (should I leave it be?) Lights on at 7 am, Lights off at 7 pm. She sleeps and is awake during the day.

I will answer any questions. I want to know what is wrong with her and how I can help her in any way.
 

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kam!

New Member
May I also be recommended on a type of bedding to use for her to burrow and lay her eggs on? Thank you!
 

MissSkittles

Chameleon Enthusiast
Hi and welcome! It’s hard to really see well what the marks may be, but could well be from rubbing her face on screen or something or maybe even a burn. I’d say just keep a very close watch on it. I’m of the idea that we should always have veterinary wellness checks and fecals for all of our new animal companions, and a vet could better determine what kind of injury that is. It doesn’t look like a serious injury, so that is your choice.
Now, let’s make sure your sweet and beautiful little lady will have the happiest, healthiest life and have no problems laying her eggs when the time comes. If you’d please answer the following we can make sure everything is perfect so that you enjoy many years with your new friend. :)

Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:
  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
 

kam!

New Member
Hi and welcome! It’s hard to really see well what the marks may be, but could well be from rubbing her face on screen or something or maybe even a burn. I’d say just keep a very close watch on it. I’m of the idea that we should always have veterinary wellness checks and fecals for all of our new animal companions, and a vet could better determine what kind of injury that is. It doesn’t look like a serious injury, so that is your choice.
Now, let’s make sure your sweet and beautiful little lady will have the happiest, healthiest life and have no problems laying her eggs when the time comes. If you’d please answer the following we can make sure everything is perfect so that you enjoy many years with your new friend. :)

Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:
  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
Hello! I’m really sorry for the bad pictures, I did not want her to be more stressed with me since I got her this Sunday and when the lights are one, she displays very stressed colors. Even looking black. When its night and asleep, she displays a nice lime green and orange. :) Very nice to see.

I will try to be as detailed as possible! I get very anxious concerning the health of my pets and want everything to be perfect. I want her to live as happy as possible.

She is a Veiled Chameleon, around a year old female. I handled her when I had to move around her leaves and vine. She was not happy. At all. She has been in my care for 3 days. I have fed her 3 hornworms and 8 crickets. The crickets were dusted with calcium and a multivitamin. She ate all but 2 crickets that died, she has even pooped. I examined the poop. It was dark, wet, and had a white spot. It didn’t really stink much and I didn’t see anything moving. I am going to feed her this Thursday afternoon, 5 dusted crickets and 2-3 Dubia roaches and one hornworm. I have dried dubia food I got for the roaches and I will feed the crickets mustard greens and an apple tomorrow, Wednesday morning. I am going to feed her every other day, in small amounts so her eggs wont get any bigger, and every feeding will dust with calcium and twice a month with a D3 powder and multivitamin. The brands are Zoomed.

I spray the cage for a minute or more with a spray bottle twice every day. Enough to where I see droplets dropping from the leaves and the screen of the cage. I am also going to add a couple of ice cubes on top and let them melt too. I’ve watched her eat and drink, she has no problem at all with both. She will eat and drink as long as I’m not right in front of the cage.

She has not been tested for parasites yet, and I was not given any history besides that she was captive bred and around a year old female.

I have a screen cage for her. A zoomed screen cage that is 16 x 16 x 30. I am currently looking for a bigger cage, any recommendations? Her light is on top of her screen cage that is is a zoomed 5.0 uvb light and a 60w daylight heat bulb. Her temperatures are around 75-79° when on, and around 70-75° off. At 7 am it turns on, 7 pm it turns off. She does not sleep at the day and sleeps all night. Wakes up easily and slightly quick when lights turn on.

Humidity is very high. I mist twice a day for her to drink and for humidity. It is also very humid outside in case that helps. The plants are fake. No real plants. I intend to spray as much as possible so humidity is up, but only twice a day right now because she does not like it when I spray.

Vera’s cage is in my bedroom which is just me in there. Occasionally my parents come in and out, but not far enough to be close by her cage. Traffic is not high at all. Her cage is on the floor for now but she will be propped on a dresser.

I am in Atlanta Georgia. Very hot and humid with alot of rain and humidity right now. Had an awful storm today that lasted until 11. Her lights turned off at 6 pm today because they were flickering and I did not want to risk them being busted. Turning on again at 7 am.

Is this enough information? I am happy and willing to answer more questions.

If they are burns, how may I help her?
 

MissSkittles

Chameleon Enthusiast
I’ll be putting my feedback in red.

She is a Veiled Chameleon, around a year old female. I handled her when I had to move around her leaves and vine. She was not happy. At all. Veiled’s have a reputation for being grumpy. She has been in my care for 3 days. I have fed her 3 hornworms and 8 crickets. This is ok as she was most likely needing the extra hydration and nutrition. However, for a regular feeding, it’s too much. Over feeding not only can lead to obesity, but can cause large clutches of eggs. I feed my ladies 3-4 good sized feeders, 3 days a week. The crickets were dusted with calcium and a multivitamin. While there are many supplement regimens, the basic is to use a phosphorus free calcium without D3 at every feeding except one every week. Then for that one feeding you’ll alternate between using a calcium with D3 and a multivitamin (without D3). She ate all but 2 crickets that died, she has even pooped. I examined the poop. It was dark, wet, and had a white spot. It didn’t really stink much and I didn’t see anything moving. Most parasites are microscopic, so we won’t see them. I am going to feed her this Thursday afternoon, 5 dusted crickets and 2-3 Dubia roaches and one hornworm. Instead try 2 dubia, 1 cricket and the hornworm. I have dried dubia food I got for the roaches and I will feed the crickets mustard greens and an apple tomorrow, Wednesday morning. I am going to feed her every other day, in small amounts so her eggs wont get any bigger, and every feeding will dust with calcium and twice a month with a D3 powder and multivitamin. See above. The brands are Zoomed. Will attach feeder and gutload graphics just in case you need.

I spray the cage for a minute or more with a spray bottle twice every day. You could increase your misting to 2 minutes each time. Enough to where I see droplets dropping from the leaves and the screen of the cage. I am also going to add a couple of ice cubes on top and let them melt too. I’ve watched her eat and drink, she has no problem at all with both. She will eat and drink as long as I’m not right in front of the cage. Most are secretive about drinking and some about eating too.

She has not been tested for parasites yet, and I was not given any history besides that she was captive bred and around a year old female.

I have a screen cage for her. A zoomed screen cage that is 16 x 16 x 30. I am currently looking for a bigger cage, any recommendations? You’ll be wanting at least a 2x2x4’ enclosure for her. A great budget choice is DIY cages and for a better quality there is Dragon Strand. Dragon ledges will make a great way to hang branches, plants and vines in a budget enclosure. Her light is on top of her screen cage that is is a zoomed 5.0 uvb light and a 60w daylight heat bulb. Is your uvb a long tube or a screw in bulb? The standard is a T5HO fixture with either a 5.0 or Arcadia 6% bulb to provide adequate uvb levels. Then basking area needs to be about 8” below. Her temperatures are around 75-79° when on, and around 70-75° off. At 7 am it turns on, 7 pm it turns off. You don’t want basking temp to go any higher than 80 to help keep egg laying reduced. A temp drop at night is desirable. She does not sleep at the day and sleeps all night. Wakes up easily and slightly quick when lights turn on.

Humidity is very high. How high? Veiled’s actually need a less humid environment. Between 30-50% is ideal. At night if you have a significant temp drop, humidity can reach 80-100% to simulate natural hydration. I mist twice a day for her to drink and for humidity. It is also very humid outside in case that helps. The plants are fake. No real plants. You need to replace all of the fake with real plants. Veiled’s eat their plants and my ladies go to town on theirs. All it takes is one nibble of a fake leaf and she could get impacted, which can be fatal. Attaching safe plant lists. Many of the plants will need a good light to keep them healthy. Attach the fake to the outside of her enclosure for added privacy. I intend to spray as much as possible so humidity is up, but only twice a day right now because she does not like it when I spray.

Vera’s cage is in my bedroom which is just me in there. Occasionally my parents come in and out, but not far enough to be close by her cage. Traffic is not high at all. Her cage is on the floor for now but she will be propped on a dresser. Yes! The higher they are, the safer they feel.

I am in Atlanta Georgia. Very hot and humid with alot of rain and humidity right now. Is it safe to assume your house has air conditioning? If so, that will also dehumidify and help keep her humidity at an ideal range. Had an awful storm today that lasted until 11. Her lights turned off at 6 pm today because they were flickering and I did not want to risk them being busted. Turning on again at 7 am. I’m in Florida and have the daily summer storms. I keep everything on surge protectors with a timer to help. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MWHQZX0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Is this enough information? I am happy and willing to answer more questions.

If they are burns, how may I help her? Burns generally require a special cream called silver sulfadiazine that is prescription only. If you can get better pics of the area, someone may be able to better determine what type of injury she has.
As this has already gotten long, let me add a separate post about laying and bin.

E8897791-1FF2-47BE-9EAE-70A988C954F2.jpeg
F75FEC15-B3DF-4331-B63E-C1B6ABB58C17.jpeg
24488B03-D7CB-46FA-90A4-ECF781C928C4.jpeg
0892D90C-3151-46B4-9A94-7200099D5F50.jpeg
 

MissSkittles

Chameleon Enthusiast
She is old enough that she will be laying eggs at any time. Usually we do have a little warning of when their time is near by their color and behavior changes. As she is new to you, you may not recognize them. First will come the receptive period. She’ll put on her prettiest colors and get restless, searching her enclosure repeatedly for a man. This lasts around 1+ weeks. Anytime from a few weeks after, she’ll be ready to lay. Unfortunately there are no standard times and if you follow a reduced diet and temps, it’s possible that she won’t lay at all. Both of my girls have been receptive at least twice in the past year 1/2, but only one laid eggs. This is why it’s best to keep a lay bin in her enclosure all of the time.
You’ll need a container that is at least 12” wide and long. Fill to about 6” with clean play sand and keep it moist enough to hold a tunnel without collapsing. They don’t dig straight down, so keep that in mind. If you want to put a plant in a corner of the bin, that’s fine and you can mix in some organic soil with the sand. I drill some tiny holes in the bottom of the bin for drainage.
When she needs it, she’ll find and enter her bin. Once she does, cover the visible areas (usually just the bottom half is enough, with a light sheet so she has privacy. If she sees anyone, she may stop laying and could get egg bound. She’ll be digging away headfirst in her tunnel. She may dig a few test tunnels. Once she’s satisfied, she’ll turn around and lay her eggs. When done, she’ll cover everything up and return to her usual basking branch, looking dirty and much thinner. The whole process takes 1-2 days and she may sleep in her tunnel. I poke some peek holes in my sheet cover so I can check and make sure she’s ok and her tunnel hasn’t collapsed or other signs that she may be in trouble. Once she’s all done, feed her very well for a couple of days and then return to her usual feeding schedule. I try to have hornworms for my ladies to help rehydrate them too. Silkworms are my favorite feeder for both hydration and great nutrition.
If your husbandry is correct, she shouldn’t have any problems laying. Signs of a problem include staying low in her enclosure, lethargy, not eating/drinking, closed eyes during the day, dropping eggs here & there, etc. If you see any of these, get her to a vet ASAP. However, just prior to laying you may notice she’s either restless or just sitting in one spot, not interested in eating much so it’s really just knowing what is normal for your girl.
Give at least a day before removing the eggs from the bin. I try to sneak it out at night when she’s asleep if I can do so without waking her. You’ll want to count the eggs. Less than 30 is desired.
 

kam!

New Member
I’ll be putting my feedback in red.

She is a Veiled Chameleon, around a year old female. I handled her when I had to move around her leaves and vine. She was not happy. At all. Veiled’s have a reputation for being grumpy. She has been in my care for 3 days. I have fed her 3 hornworms and 8 crickets. This is ok as she was most likely needing the extra hydration and nutrition. However, for a regular feeding, it’s too much. Over feeding not only can lead to obesity, but can cause large clutches of eggs. I feed my ladies 3-4 good sized feeders, 3 days a week. The crickets were dusted with calcium and a multivitamin. While there are many supplement regimens, the basic is to use a phosphorus free calcium without D3 at every feeding except one every week. Then for that one feeding you’ll alternate between using a calcium with D3 and a multivitamin (without D3). She ate all but 2 crickets that died, she has even pooped. I examined the poop. It was dark, wet, and had a white spot. It didn’t really stink much and I didn’t see anything moving. Most parasites are microscopic, so we won’t see them. I am going to feed her this Thursday afternoon, 5 dusted crickets and 2-3 Dubia roaches and one hornworm. Instead try 2 dubia, 1 cricket and the hornworm. I have dried dubia food I got for the roaches and I will feed the crickets mustard greens and an apple tomorrow, Wednesday morning. I am going to feed her every other day, in small amounts so her eggs wont get any bigger, and every feeding will dust with calcium and twice a month with a D3 powder and multivitamin. See above. The brands are Zoomed. Will attach feeder and gutload graphics just in case you need.

I spray the cage for a minute or more with a spray bottle twice every day. You could increase your misting to 2 minutes each time. Enough to where I see droplets dropping from the leaves and the screen of the cage. I am also going to add a couple of ice cubes on top and let them melt too. I’ve watched her eat and drink, she has no problem at all with both. She will eat and drink as long as I’m not right in front of the cage. Most are secretive about drinking and some about eating too.

She has not been tested for parasites yet, and I was not given any history besides that she was captive bred and around a year old female.

I have a screen cage for her. A zoomed screen cage that is 16 x 16 x 30. I am currently looking for a bigger cage, any recommendations? You’ll be wanting at least a 2x2x4’ enclosure for her. A great budget choice is DIY cages and for a better quality there is Dragon Strand. Dragon ledges will make a great way to hang branches, plants and vines in a budget enclosure. Her light is on top of her screen cage that is is a zoomed 5.0 uvb light and a 60w daylight heat bulb. Is your uvb a long tube or a screw in bulb? The standard is a T5HO fixture with either a 5.0 or Arcadia 6% bulb to provide adequate uvb levels. Then basking area needs to be about 8” below. Her temperatures are around 75-79° when on, and around 70-75° off. At 7 am it turns on, 7 pm it turns off. You don’t want basking temp to go any higher than 80 to help keep egg laying reduced. A temp drop at night is desirable. She does not sleep at the day and sleeps all night. Wakes up easily and slightly quick when lights turn on.

Humidity is very high. How high? Veiled’s actually need a less humid environment. Between 30-50% is ideal. At night if you have a significant temp drop, humidity can reach 80-100% to simulate natural hydration. I mist twice a day for her to drink and for humidity. It is also very humid outside in case that helps. The plants are fake. No real plants. You need to replace all of the fake with real plants. Veiled’s eat their plants and my ladies go to town on theirs. All it takes is one nibble of a fake leaf and she could get impacted, which can be fatal. Attaching safe plant lists. Many of the plants will need a good light to keep them healthy. Attach the fake to the outside of her enclosure for added privacy. I intend to spray as much as possible so humidity is up, but only twice a day right now because she does not like it when I spray.

Vera’s cage is in my bedroom which is just me in there. Occasionally my parents come in and out, but not far enough to be close by her cage. Traffic is not high at all. Her cage is on the floor for now but she will be propped on a dresser. Yes! The higher they are, the safer they feel.

I am in Atlanta Georgia. Very hot and humid with alot of rain and humidity right now. Is it safe to assume your house has air conditioning? If so, that will also dehumidify and help keep her humidity at an ideal range. Had an awful storm today that lasted until 11. Her lights turned off at 6 pm today because they were flickering and I did not want to risk them being busted. Turning on again at 7 am. I’m in Florida and have the daily summer storms. I keep everything on surge protectors with a timer to help. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MWHQZX0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Is this enough information? I am happy and willing to answer more questions.

If they are burns, how may I help her? Burns generally require a special cream called silver sulfadiazine that is prescription only. If you can get better pics of the area, someone may be able to better determine what type of injury she has.
As this has already gotten long, let me add a separate post about laying and bin.

View attachment 306457View attachment 306458View attachment 306460View attachment 306461
I did not want to add any live plants as I was afraid of pesticides and bacteria growing as I had read up on. I also suck at taking care of real life plants so I was also concerned of the plants dying. However I am more worried about her trying to take a bite of a fake leaf and getting that in her system. How can I dodge the pesticides and bacteria. Any website you would recommend to get the live plants from?
 

kam!

New Member
This is what my girls look like in their reproductive phases.
‘Normal’
View attachment 306465
Receptive *1st pic she was peeking at my male
View attachment 306466
View attachment 306467
Gravid
View attachment 306468
Post laying
View attachment 306469
She laid 34 eggs, which while it is more than I’d have liked, she had gone a full year without laying.
For now, when she’s awake, she been displaying dark colors. Very dark green, almost black. But I am convinced that she’s stressed due to the new environment..
 

MissSkittles

Chameleon Enthusiast
I did not want to add any live plants as I was afraid of pesticides and bacteria growing as I had read up on. I also suck at taking care of real life plants so I was also concerned of the plants dying. However I am more worried about her trying to take a bite of a fake leaf and getting that in her system. How can I dodge the pesticides and bacteria. Any website you would recommend to get the live plants from?
I get my plants from Lowe’s, Home Depot and Walmart. With the garden hose, I wash as much of the soil as I can off them, taking them as close to bare root as possible. I Dawn dish soap in a bucket of water and gently wash the leaves of any residues and then repot them in organic soil. Putting river rocks too big for your cham to accidentally eat on top will help prevent soil ingestion. Pothos and philodendron do ok without any special lighting. I use one of these above each of my enclosures and they work well to keep even light loving hibiscus alive. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TKKG8Q3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

ERKleRose

Chameleon Enthusiast
For now, when she’s awake, she been displaying dark colors. Very dark green, almost black. But I am convinced that she’s stressed due to the new environment..
Could you post a pic of her entire enclosure, please?
 
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