Bioactive

ChamLover04

Member
So recently I got in touch with a guy from my town who also had a veiled chameleon for 10 years (which is really long so I guess he knows what he’s doing). He makes all kinds of backgrounds for vivariums/terrariums/screen cages etc. He suggested going bioactive because he tried it and really likes it and he told me that he can give me springtails. So far I have 2 scheffleras and 2 pothos plants and 2 fake plants aswell as bamboo sticks, branches and everything so that’s plenty in my opinion. But with bioactive I would need to plant it all in the soil on the bottom of the cage? And how viable is bioactive with a screen cage, I guess I would need to put some kind of plastic or silicon on the bottom so soil can’t get out. Also my chameleon would need to be moved for some time so I can arrange everything with the bioactive stuff, is this all worth it or is it too much stress for him?
 
Yeah, I really like the idea of it, but my main questions are if bioactive is viable in a full screen cage and if moving the chameleon for like 1-2 weeks and then in the bioactive cage again is not too stressful?
 
I would get the bio-active up and running for a bit prior to adding the occupant. I haven't done this type of setup yet, but it will be better to have everything balanced before move in day (in my opinion).
 
Bioactive is 100% doable with a screen cage, though I found I ended up needing to make more modifications to my ReptiBreeze build than I did my ExoTerra.

I highly recommend that you either find a planter box with the right dimensions for your cage to sit on, or make one. While you could, theoretically, use some sort of heavy plastic liner to fashion a "planter" in your cage, it would be near impossible to move, take up ~10+ inches of real estate off the bottom, and (imho), look ugly.

Here's the simple planter box my grandpa made for Lily. I sealed the outside with 2 in 1 Varathane/stain, and the inside with several coats of LiquidRubber (similar to FlexSeal). Even with the sealant, I chose to line the inside with plastic before building my substrate layers to ensure that there isn't any seepage.

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Since screen cages are a little wishy washy, I'd recommend either Dragon Ledges or some sort of frame to easily attach any sticks and pots to. Saved me a lot of grief, and also protects the screen from damage.

You'll likely need more than just springtails to establish a strong ecosystem. I'd recommend at least getting some isopods, and I personally also run red wiggler compost worms and some detritus milipedes that came in with some leaflitter. Should you get isopods, they benefit from cuttlebone (the stuff you give to birds) as a calcium source, and like some bits of cork or bark to hide under in addition to leaflitter. I'd also recommend some sort of commercial CuC food at least while the population is getting established. I use Repashy Morning Wood, personally, and still end up feeding once or twice a week to keep up with demand.

If you prepare things properly, you won't have to move your cham out of his cage for a long period of time. Make sure any assembled elements that need offgassing (planter box, background if you do it yourself, etc.) have at least a week to air out (or until they stop smelling; follow manufacturer instructions). Pending whether or not you have a spare cage/lighting, you can put your boy there for a couple weeks while the enclosure is settling... but I personally didn't bother. Once you have your supplies and your cage is ready for assembly, you can just take your cham and put him in a box overnight, let him wake up in his new environment the next day. Imo, this would be the least stressful.

I ended up using a combination of ProMix HP High Porosity (equivalent to SunShine Mix #4), orchid mix, worm castings, and a little of this and that that I had in my gardening supplies. I can't remember what I've posting where and to whom anymore, so here's a breakdown of my layers and drainage system:

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PVC drainage access pipe.

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Let me know if you have any additional questions. I'm barely awake, and probably missed something! :)
 
Bioactive is 100% doable with a screen cage, though I found I ended up needing to make more modifications to my ReptiBreeze build than I did my ExoTerra.

I highly recommend that you either find a planter box with the right dimensions for your cage to sit on, or make one. While you could, theoretically, use some sort of heavy plastic liner to fashion a "planter" in your cage, it would be near impossible to move, take up ~10+ inches of real estate off the bottom, and (imho), look ugly.

Here's the simple planter box my grandpa made for Lily. I sealed the outside with 2 in 1 Varathane/stain, and the inside with several coats of LiquidRubber (similar to FlexSeal). Even with the sealant, I chose to line the inside with plastic before building my substrate layers to ensure that there isn't any seepage.

View attachment 257094

View attachment 257095

View attachment 257096

Since screen cages are a little wishy washy, I'd recommend either Dragon Ledges or some sort of frame to easily attach any sticks and pots to. Saved me a lot of grief, and also protects the screen from damage.

You'll likely need more than just springtails to establish a strong ecosystem. I'd recommend at least getting some isopods, and I personally also run red wiggler compost worms and some detritus milipedes that came in with some leaflitter. Should you get isopods, they benefit from cuttlebone (the stuff you give to birds) as a calcium source, and like some bits of cork or bark to hide under in addition to leaflitter. I'd also recommend some sort of commercial CuC food at least while the population is getting established. I use Repashy Morning Wood, personally, and still end up feeding once or twice a week to keep up with demand.

If you prepare things properly, you won't have to move your cham out of his cage for a long period of time. Make sure any assembled elements that need offgassing (planter box, background if you do it yourself, etc.) have at least a week to air out (or until they stop smelling; follow manufacturer instructions). Pending whether or not you have a spare cage/lighting, you can put your boy there for a couple weeks while the enclosure is settling... but I personally didn't bother. Once you have your supplies and your cage is ready for assembly, you can just take your cham and put him in a box overnight, let him wake up in his new environment the next day. Imo, this would be the least stressful.

I ended up using a combination of ProMix HP High Porosity (equivalent to SunShine Mix #4), orchid mix, worm castings, and a little of this and that that I had in my gardening supplies. I can't remember what I've posting where and to whom anymore, so here's a breakdown of my layers and drainage system:

View attachment 257102

PVC drainage access pipe.

View attachment 257103

Let me know if you have any additional questions. I'm barely awake, and probably missed something! :)
Thanks for all the tips, definitely seems more like something I want to do now. Can’t wait to get it done so I can admire the mini ecosystem in my room and of course give my boy a better home. :)
 
Yeah, I really like the idea of it, but my main questions are if bioactive is viable in a full screen cage and if moving the chameleon for like 1-2 weeks and then in the bioactive cage again is not too stressful?
Perso.. yes and no, but i find cool solution by converting my screen cages in hybrid glass-screen! That way i got all the possibility of full bioactive with all the advantages of screen for chameleons:)
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I have done bioactive in my terrarium. Looks awesome and the idea of it all being fully natural is good. But I have had to rescue pascal from swallowing fauna and soil that come attached with crickets and locusts that he has grabbed off the base. I have worries over impaction.
 
I have done bioactive in my terrarium. Looks awesome and the idea of it all being fully natural is good. But I have had to rescue pascal from swallowing fauna and soil that come attached with crickets and locusts that he has grabbed off the base. I have worries over impaction.
What was the soil? Coco fiber / similar stuff?
 
What was the soil? Coco fiber / similar stuff?
It was a mix of bio nutrient, earth mix and a coco block. I put some chopped bark in with aswell to rot down. I have spring tails in their at the moment. Might add worms. But no need at the mo. Was told woodlice but they would attract pascal to base and then get hovered up.
 
It was a mix of bio nutrient, earth mix and a coco block. I put some chopped bark in with aswell to rot down. I have spring tails in their at the moment. Might add worms. But no need at the mo. Was told woodlice but they would attract pascal to base and then get hovered up.
Coco fiber is a problem with chameleons;). Cant be digested and lead to impaction, hygroballs at the botton, dirt sand and activated charcoal is all you need:) and some moss because its badass!
 
Coco fiber is a problem with chameleons;). Cant be digested and lead to impaction, hygroballs at the botton, dirt sand and activated charcoal is all you need:) and some moss because its badass!
It was only a small block stirred in with the other soils. Was instructed it is good for the souls nutrients. I've got a 3 inch drainage layer underneath. Not sure on the moss too many people reported chams chomping down on it
 
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