An Apology to the Community

userBandit

Member
I want to say I am sorry for the way I lashed out at some of the members on this community and how I used some pretty colorful language in a previous thread.

As you may know I recently got a Jackson's chameleon and asked in a thread to list the differences between two species of chameleons that I now keep. It was misunderstood that I had just gotten this animal with absolutely not even the slightest research. I'm aware they need a lot higher humidity and lower temps at night, I am aware their supplementation schedule is so different than a veiled. I hear all of your comments and truly take them into consideration weather I had something nice to say or not, the important thing is that these animals are being well taken care of.

With that being said, i'd like to apologize to @Beman specifically for using the word I did. With new reptiles comes stress, and with all the negative feedback made me feel a bit disrespected but I understand there are better ways to go about it rather than calling you a c***. I'm sure your a good person and your chameleons are healthy and beautiful.

Now with that said, my Jackson's chameleon seems to be doing just fine other than the fact he is sitting at the bottom of the cage and doesn't really do much. Not too much exploring just screen climbing. I understand this is normal for some chameleons when you first bring them home but is this normal for the Jackson's chameleon too? I've got his basic husbandry below:

Enclosure Size: 24" x 18" x 18" -- He is a baby, I am ordering a 4ft x 2ft x 2ft when I get paid this friday!
Heating: His basking spot is 80 degrees, it sometimes falls to 77-76.
UVB: Same UVB as my veiled chameleon, the Linear 5.0 T10.
Plants: All real plants to keep that humidity high, though some tips would be great for keeping humidity because I don't really understand how to keep it between 80%-90%. I mist 4-5 times a day, if I notice his leaves are dry I always just give them a quick mist.
Diet: He hasn't touched his food. I am waiting a week to let him settle in and seeing if he eats. He currently has 3 superworms un-dusted in his enclosure right now.

He has a dripping system but I don't run it all the time because it floods his cage and makes my floor wet. Anybody have any suggestions on this? If you need more info on my Jackson's chameleons enclosure, just ask!

Heres some pics, again sorry for my toxic behavior. Keeping reptiles gets stressful for me and i'm hard on myself about it because I feel bad if something were to happen under my watch, the goal for me only is to give them the best life possible just like all of you wonderful keepers :)

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userBandit

Member
Does everything look good so far? Any suggestions are appreciated. I'd love an estimate on how old he is because the pet store did not tell me.
 

ERKleRose

Chameleon Enthusiast
Sorry for coming on too strong the other day, I’d like to apologize for it. Filling out the rest of the husbandry form would be a great help, as well, so experienced jacksons keepers can have the full image
 

Beman

Chameleon Enthusiast
Thank you for the apology.

Your daytime humidity does not need to be that high. Just your night time along with a temp drop. Night time when temps are cool you can add a cool mist humidifier or fogger to the cage to up the levels.

See this link... There is even a podcast you can listen to there. https://chameleonacademy.com/the-jacksons-chameleon-trioceros-jacksonii/


When you say this what do you mean? UVB: Same UVB as my veiled chameleon, the Linear 5.0 T10.
Are you using a T5HO or a T8 fixture?

For the water run off. you could get a dragon strand drip pan or something like this. Then put plastic egg crate below the cage to raise it up out of the pan.
This one even has an outlet that you could hook a hose up to and put a bucket below. https://www.amazon.com/DiversiTech-...&sprefix=hot+water+heater+pan,aps,274&sr=8-33
Here is the link to the DS pans. https://dragonstrand.com/alternative-cage-manufaturers/

He may not want to eat from the cup if he is not used to it. Might try a feeder run like this one in the large size. https://tkchameleons.com/collections/accessories
 

userBandit

Member
Thank you for the apology.

Your daytime humidity does not need to be that high. Just your night time along with a temp drop. Night time when temps are cool you can add a cool mist humidifier or fogger to the cage to up the levels.

See this link... There is even a podcast you can listen to there. https://chameleonacademy.com/the-jacksons-chameleon-trioceros-jacksonii/


When you say this what do you mean? UVB: Same UVB as my veiled chameleon, the Linear 5.0 T10.
Are you using a T5HO or a T8 fixture?

For the water run off. you could get a dragon strand drip pan or something like this. Then put plastic egg crate below the cage to raise it up out of the pan.
This one even has an outlet that you could hook a hose up to and put a bucket below. https://www.amazon.com/DiversiTech-6-2424L-Drain-Plastic-Large/dp/B00QW2J380/ref=sr_1_33?crid=1WI724OPWXN5K&keywords=hot+water+heater+pan+24&qid=1552797054&s=gateway&sprefix=hot+water+heater+pan,aps,274&sr=8-33
Here is the link to the DS pans. https://dragonstrand.com/alternative-cage-manufaturers/

He may not want to eat from the cup if he is not used to it. Might try a feeder run like this one in the large size. https://tkchameleons.com/collections/accessories
Using the 24" this is what i use its off amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Reptisun-260...1&keywords=reptisun+uvb&qid=1611512725&sr=8-5
 

userBandit

Member
Chameleon Info:

  • Your Chameleon - Jacksons Chameleon
  • Handling - Never because I just got him
  • Feeding - I put 3 superworms in the enclosure and he hasn't eat them yet. Maybe with time and adjusting?
  • Supplements - The ReptiCalcium brand without d3, only twice a week. I ordered that LoD as well to use each month.
  • Watering - Regular old misting bottle, I just hand mist him when i wake up, go to bed, and through out the day.
  • Fecal Description - Looks about normal, solid with the white sack. The sack was a little yellow but who knows how well the Pet Store took care of the poor guy.
  • History - Nada

Cage Info:

  • Cage Type - Screen Enclosure, 18 x 18 x 24 (He will be getting an upgrade this month)
  • Lighting - ReptiSun Linear UVB T8 10.0, along with a ReptiBasking Bulb 100W. It's about 6-8" away from his basking branch so it doesn't get too hot for him.
  • Temperature - Basking spot - 80, bottom of cage 70's high 60's
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Mostly live plants, I have a Mass cane tree in there with a little green Ficus plant.
  • Placement - Corner of my room by a window. The window has been blocked off with a dark curtain and it has thick glass, so there isn't a breeze.
  • Location - Ohio, cold winters, muggy hot summers depending on the day. We get a little bit of all the weather here!

Current Problem - No problems really other then the fact he wont bask and he stays at the bottom or on the screen, but I think maybe he is just adjusting to his new house? Moving can be stressful on chameleons.
 

Beman

Chameleon Enthusiast
So that one is a T5HO fixture with the 10.0 bulb and the 5.0 bulb so it does depend on which bulb your using.. The UVI output is going to be very high with the 10.0 bulb strength for your Jackson. It will be equivalent to a 12%. So make sure you have the distance to Venoms back correct... 14 inches from the bottom of the fixture to the top of his back. Or you use the 5.0 bulb and the distance would be 8 inches to the back of his back. using these distances will give you the approximate 3 UVI level he needs.
 

DocZ

Chameleon Enthusiast
I think @Beman already addressed a lot of this

You’re definitely going to want a bigger enclosure. Consider a “hybrid” enclosure of some kind, with 3 sides solid and top/front screen or even 3 sides plus the door and just the top and the bottom maintenance door screen. You’ll have a lot easier time maintaining stable and appropriate humidity and temps

Your daytime temps look good. It’s nighttime drops below 65 at night and probably better if into the 50s that’s most important

With your T5 hO 10.0, you’ll want to raise it up a bit to avoid too much UVB. In its current position it will have levels higher than those ever recorded anywhere on the planet just below the screen. Your 10.0 will behave similarly to the Arcadia 12%. Jackson’s are equatorial montane Chams and probably can handle slightly higher UVI, but on the screen is too high

Vary the diet and gutload your feed

as noted before nighttime humidity needs to be higher. You can use Duck window kits on the sides to help hold humidity. I use a fogger at night intermittently from 12am to 6am, and mist just before lights on and just after lights off and once around midnight
https://chameleonacademy.com/basics-hydration-for-chameleons/

if he’s not basking, reconfirm your temps. It seems like he’s hiding from them. Add a probe at his basking branch

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userBandit

Member
I think @Beman already addressed a lot of this

You’re definitely going to want a bigger enclosure. Consider a “hybrid” enclosure of some kind, with 3 sides solid and top/front screen or even 3 sides plus the door and just the top and the bottom maintenance door screen. You’ll have a lot easier time maintaining stable and appropriate humidity and temps

Your daytime temps look good. It’s nighttime drops below 65 at night and probably better if into the 50s that’s most important

With your T5 hO 10.0, you’ll want to raise it up a bit to avoid too much UVB. In its current position it will have levels higher than those ever recorded anywhere on the planet just below the screen. Your 10.0 will behave similarly to the Arcadia 12%. Jackson’s are equatorial montane Chams and probably can handle slightly higher UVI, but on the screen is too high

Vary the diet and gutload your feed

as noted before nighttime humidity needs to be higher. You can use Duck window kits on the sides to help hold humidity. I use a fogger at night intermittently from 12am to 6am, and mist just before lights on and just after lights off and once around midnight
https://chameleonacademy.com/basics-hydration-for-chameleons/

if he’s not basking, reconfirm your temps. It seems like he’s hiding from them. Add a probe at his basking branch

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Is that insulating stuff just like the clear saranwrap you put on your windows to keep the cold out or the breeze? if so can i just use that?
 

Mendez

Avid Member
I want to say I am sorry for the way I lashed out at some of the members on this community and how I used some pretty colorful language in a previous thread.
Thanks mate, I'm glad that you were able to apologize to the forums. I am also glad that you owned up to your mistakes; you could have easily created a separate account and pretended like it never happened. I am glad that you took this route!

Heres some pics, again sorry for my toxic behavior. Keeping reptiles gets stressful for me and i'm hard on myself about it because I feel bad if something were to happen under my watch, the goal for me only is to give them the best life possible just like all of you wonderful keepers
I totally get that--keeping reptiles, at times, can be extremely stressful--especially at the very beginning when they acclimate.

Enclosure Size: 24" x 18" x 18" -- He is a baby, I am ordering a 4ft x 2ft x 2ft when I get paid this friday!
Awesome! I am glad that you are ordering a 2x2x4. Based on the pics of him, he isn't a baby anymore. He still seems young, right around a year old, probably a little more. This is just based on my own jacksons--I don't have breeder experience so I haven't seen too many grow up to give you a more accurate answer. At this age, you want to reduce their feeding to three times a week.

Heating: His basking spot is 80 degrees, it sometimes falls to 77-76.
That sounds good. You could always bump up the basking spot to 81-82 degrees so when the temp drops, it will still be 77-78 degrees.


Plants: All real plants to keep that humidity high, though some tips would be great for keeping humidity because I don't really understand how to keep it between 80%-90%. I mist 4-5 times a day, if I notice his leaves are dry I always just give them a quick mist.
It is better to increase your humidity at night rather than during the day. 80%-90% humidity at night is good, but during the day, well that could lead to a respiratory infection.


Diet: He hasn't touched his food. I am waiting a week to let him settle in and seeing if he eats. He currently has 3 superworms un-dusted in his enclosure right now.
Acclimating can take some time. I definitely wouldn't worry about it. If you are going to feed superworms, make sure to feed a lot of other varied feeders like dubia roaches, crickets, silkworms, bsfl, etc because supers can be addicting. I feed them like a treat every once in awhile.

He has a dripping system but I don't run it all the time because it floods his cage and makes my floor wet. Anybody have any suggestions on this? If you need more info on my Jackson's chameleons enclosure, just ask!
Once you get his humidity levels correct (high at night and low during the day), the dripper won't totally be necessary but it is a good thing to keep around just in case he gets thirsty. For a drainage pan, I got a washer machine drip pan from lowes. Basically, I put shims under three of the four sides of the pan to direct the water to one corner. Then I drilled a hole in that corner and taped a funnel and tube underneath the hole to channel the water to a 5 gal bucket.

And I agree with @DocZ that adding smaller branches that he can more easily grasp and maneuver around would be excellent.
 

userBandit

Member
Thanks mate, I'm glad that you were able to apologize to the forums. I am also glad that you owned up to your mistakes; you could have easily created a separate account and pretended like it never happened. I am glad that you took this route!


I totally get that--keeping reptiles, at times, can be extremely stressful--especially at the very beginning when they acclimate.


Awesome! I am glad that you are ordering a 2x2x4. Based on the pics of him, he isn't a baby anymore. He still seems young, right around a year old, probably a little more. This is just based on my own jacksons--I don't have breeder experience so I haven't seen too many grow up to give you a more accurate answer. At this age, you want to reduce their feeding to three times a week.


That sounds good. You could always bump up the basking spot to 81-82 degrees so when the temp drops, it will still be 77-78 degrees.



It is better to increase your humidity at night rather than during the day. 80%-90% humidity at night is good, but during the day, well that could lead to a respiratory infection.



Acclimating can take some time. I definitely wouldn't worry about it. If you are going to feed superworms, make sure to feed a lot of other varied feeders like dubia roaches, crickets, silkworms, bsfl, etc because supers can be addicting. I feed them like a treat every once in awhile.


Once you get his humidity levels correct (high at night and low during the day), the dripper won't totally be necessary but it is a good thing to keep around just in case he gets thirsty. For a drainage pan, I got a washer machine drip pan from lowes. Basically, I put shims under three of the four sides of the pan to direct the water to one corner. Then I drilled a hole in that corner and taped a funnel and tube underneath the hole to channel the water to a 5 gal bucket.

And I agree with @DocZ that adding smaller branches that he can more easily grasp and maneuver around would be excellent.
I'll add some smaller ones, does that mean I should remove the thicker ones or am I good to leave them just as extra routes and foliage?
 

Mendez

Avid Member
I'll add some smaller ones, does that mean I should remove the thicker ones or am I good to leave them just as extra routes and foliage?
You are good to leave them in the cage. The more branches the better (ofc up to a certain point lol). The more branches you have, the less likely he is to climb the screen. Though, to counter screen climbing, you can put branches super close to the screen walls so he walks on them instead of the screen itself. As might know, screen climbing can result in nail-loss as their nails can get caught in the screen and get ripped out. And unfortunately, the nail won't grow back (unless it wasn't fully ripped out).
 
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