All the help needed 🤦🏼‍♀️

LisaS88

New Member
I can't cover it all but here are a few points,
Keep the temps under 78 F until 9 months,
Male and female have horn buds the males just grow in, in xanths the females just don't. Jack Jacks are more complicated and we can determine sex 4-6 months from now.
Stick to one cage. If the glass has vents at the bottom it will be fine, if not it won't. I raise a lot of babies in ventilated glass. If you cover 3 sides of the screen cage with plastic it will work as well. Fill it with live plants and keep up with 2 long mistings first and last thing each day and a dripper in the middle or light misting.
Switching cages is causing indue stress as is the daily handling. Unless she/he climbs on your hand without coercion leave her be.
Start using supplements now. You should be feeding twice a day. Only use supplement once on those days. Apply calcium without D3 2-3 times per week. I would use Repashy Calcium plus LoD lightly twice a month. My Jackson's Supplement Schedule this link goes into more detail.
I don't use a lot of crickets in the early weeks but I have fruit flies and bean beetles handy. Pinheads are a nice convenience and you will need crickets or dubia nymphs as part of the diet eventually.
Jackson's Chameleon Articles and Studies more info
Oh, I also have 5 fruit fly cultures going! 3 that I purchased and 2 that I started myself using a banana, applesauce, oatmeal mixture for the food like I saw in a video I watched and some of the established larvae at all stages and pupae from my store bought cultures.
 

LisaS88

New Member
The stretching is probably for shed. He might be starting to shed. This young will be once every 3 to 4 weeks.
Okay, awesome. The first time she did it she stretched so far that she almost fell over. And if I remember right you should never help along the shedding, correct? It all has to come off on its own?

no ideas about her rubbing her head and face on my hands? I mean, I don’t mind and I’ll let her do it, I just want to know if I should be concerned be the behavior and if I should watch for it to progressively get more frequent or less frequent depending on why she’s doing it. Could it be related to shedding as well?
 

Sonny13

Chameleon Enthusiast
No helping indeed, let them do their thing. If husbandry is correct they’ll shed by their own.

Mine did the rubbing last week and started shedding yesterday. So it’s probably connected to stretching and possible pre-shed phase. Just keep a close watch to their eyes, that nothing gets stuck in there from the rubbing. This can cause infections.
 

LisaS88

New Member
No helping indeed, let them do their thing. If husbandry is correct they’ll shed by their own.

Mine did the rubbing last week and started shedding yesterday. So it’s probably connected to stretching and possible pre-shed phase. Just keep a close watch to their eyes, that nothing gets stuck in there from the rubbing. This can cause infections.
Awesome! Thank you so much for all of the help! Y’all are so appreciated!!

I just got pictures of the enclosures so I’ll post those now!
 

Snuits

Chameleon Enthusiast
Oh, I also have 5 fruit fly cultures going! 3 that I purchased and 2 that I started myself using a banana, applesauce, oatmeal mixture for the food like I saw in a video I watched and some of the established larvae at all stages and pupae from my store bought cultures.

Okay, awesome. The first time she did it she stretched so far that she almost fell over. And if I remember right you should never help along the shedding, correct? It all has to come off on its own?

no ideas about her rubbing her head and face on my hands? I mean, I don’t mind and I’ll let her do it, I just want to know if I should be concerned be the behavior and if I should watch for it to progressively get more frequent or less frequent depending on why she’s doing it. Could it be related to shedding as well?
Idk about the rubbing. Mine only rubs when he is shedding cause it's really itchy. So they will rub on branches & stuff. But if he's not in middle of shed I have no idea. Could be an eye issue. Might need to rinse it out. That's why I was saying vet. But if you can't take him to one that could be an issue.

Mine does like big yawns & then wiggles his whole body it's super cute. I was concerned at first as well. But just the shed process. Lol
 

LisaS88

New Member
First picture is of the glass enclosure upstairs. It is just literally a 5 gallon fish tank with a wire mesh breakout blocker lid.

The second picture is of the wire mesh enclosure downstairs that is actually designed for reptiles. The pipe cleaners were literally all I had in here at first besides the plant she loves to use the orange one on the left to sit in front of the light. Obviously they won’t hold her as she gets bigger, nor will the branches of the Parlor Palm but in a pinch, until I can get better, more well suited items I figured they’d work. Don’t be too harsh on me please. I do have some flukers vines on my Amazon wish list that I plan to buy when we get paid next.

In this floral arrangement you can see I have another large Parlor Palm and another large Pothos that I can put in this enclosure, I just need to get some more small pots and soil and sanitize them. I wish that I could just set this whole arrangement in there so she could have it as her own person jungle but I know that most of the plants aren’t safe for her.

last picture shows where in the room her enclosure is located. And I know what you’re thinking, “common sense dictates that if you don’t put the enclosure on the cat tower the cats won’t mess with it! You’re taking up their space!” I can’t even tell you the last time I saw one of my cats actually use one of our TWO cat towers. They used the first one so much that they were both squishing onto the same platform to sleep so we bought a second one. When we bought the second one they stopped using either of them. 🤦🏼‍♀️ I hate cats sometimes.

So, these are the enclosures, I know I need A LOT more plants! I promise they’re coming! I’ve literally spent the last week of having this girl just worrying myself sick over how I was going to feed her so I’m just now able to get to these other things.
 

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Sonny13

Chameleon Enthusiast
Thanks for your posting.
I would suggest get those colored things out as quickly as possible. Because, one they can cause (the) eye irritation, two they can grow harmful bacteria easily and third (don’t know 100% for sure) chameleons don’t like those bright colors, this could be stressful.

The glass tank has poor ventilation, unless you would use on top a small pc fan or similar to create an airflow, otherwise it’s not chameleon useable due the stagnant air that gets buildup in combination with the moisture. This can cause RI. However I let @JacksJill confirm this, she has good results with glass tanks and babies.

Then I wanted to say this from beginning; if a chameleon doesn’t feel secure in his/hers enclosure they wanna come out, seeing both enclosures I think that’s the case. I would put those plants inside the enclosure, they aren’t harmful what I can see, and yes maybe the soil isn’t washed out yet, but I think the non hiding possible brings more short term harm then the soil. They need to feel secure, especially soo young, otherwise stress levels are too high. They can decline very quickly.

But then again I’m no expert and this is just MHO, hopefully someone can confirm this or give a better answer.
 

LisaS88

New Member
Thanks for your posting.
I would suggest get those colored things out as quickly as possible. Because, one they can cause (the) eye irritation, two they can grow harmful bacteria easily and third (don’t know 100% for sure) chameleons don’t like those bright colors, this could be stressful.

The glass tank has poor ventilation, unless you would use on top a small pc fan or similar to create an airflow, otherwise it’s not chameleon useable due the stagnant air that gets buildup in combination with the moisture. This can cause RI. However I let @JacksJill confirm this, she has good results with glass tanks and babies.

Then I wanted to say this from beginning; if a chameleon doesn’t feel secure in his/hers enclosure they wanna come out, seeing both enclosures I think that’s the case. I would put those plants inside the enclosure, they aren’t harmful what I can see, and yes maybe the soil isn’t washed out yet, but I think the non hiding possible brings more short term harm then the soil. They need to feel secure, especially soo young, otherwise stress levels are too high. They can decline very quickly.

But then again I’m no expert and this is just MHO, hopefully someone can confirm this or give a better answer.
I will be adding the Pothos and Parlor Palm as soon as I get pots but I know for a fact I can’t add my whole potted plant because my Flaming Katy is incredibly toxic to humans and animals. I could replace them with white ones but if I don’t use pipe cleaners she won’t have anything to climb on horizontally and won’t be able to use much of her enclosure at all.
 

Sonny13

Chameleon Enthusiast
I will be adding the Pothos and Parlor Palm as soon as I get pots but I know for a fact I can’t add my whole potted plant because my Flaming Katy is incredibly toxic to humans and animals. I could replace them with white ones but if I don’t use pipe cleaners she won’t have anything to climb on horizontally and won’t be able to use much of her enclosure at all.
That Pothos with some small sticks or long matches or those wooden plant support could do the trick.
Flaming Katy, missed that one, my excuses.
But Pothos will be giving some foliage to hide, from there you can build a small network of sticks.
Maybe putting the Pothos soil in a plastic sandwich bag with some small holes in it, just for the time being. Just thinking out loud 🤗 (always try to think in solutions)
 

bbyoda

Chameleon Enthusiast
I will be adding the Pothos and Parlor Palm as soon as I get pots but I know for a fact I can’t add my whole potted plant because my Flaming Katy is incredibly toxic to humans and animals. I could replace them with white ones but if I don’t use pipe cleaners she won’t have anything to climb on horizontally and won’t be able to use much of her enclosure at all.
Once you get the plants in there, it'll be easy to stick more branches in the pot soil. Then use zip ties to connect the branches to each other. Lots of branches and the variety in shape and texture is good for their feet and development.

I'd say focus on getting the one screen enclosure up to spec by adding plastic shower curtain to the outside walls and getting the plants, soil, and branches in order. The sooner he has a safe and wonderful enclosure, the better chance he has to survive and thrive. As others have said, not having good ventilation, the right temps/humidity, nighttime drop, and taking him out often are all sources of chronic stress.
 

LisaS88

New Member
That Pothos with some small sticks or long matches or those wooden plant support could do the trick.
Flaming Katy, missed that one, my excuses.
But Pothos will be giving some foliage to hide, from there you can build a small network of sticks.
Maybe putting the Pothos soil in a plastic sandwich bag with some small holes in it, just for the time being. Just thinking out loud 🤗 (always try to think in solutions)
Ha ha not a problem, without a picture of the entire pot it can be hard to identify all of them. I just know I looked up each one when I first got her and the Parlor Palm and Pothos were the only ones I was positive were okay for her so those are the only ones from my arrangement I’ve been taking out. I will definitely be getting more variety, especially since as she gets older she’ll need thinker plants to climb. I’ll work more on this today. I was just at home checking on her and she was on the floor of her enclosure hunting fruit flies and crickets.
 

LisaS88

New Member
Once you get the plants in there, it'll be easy to stick more branches in the pot soil. Then use zip ties to connect the branches to each other. Lots of branches and the variety in shape and texture is good for their feet and development.

I'd say focus on getting the one screen enclosure up to spec by adding plastic shower curtain to the outside walls and getting the plants, soil, and branches in order. The sooner he has a safe and wonderful enclosure, the better chance he has to survive and thrive. As others have said, not having good ventilation, the right temps/humidity, nighttime drop, and taking him out often are all sources of chronic stress.
That makes sense, I didn’t even think of putting sticks and branches in soil! 🤦🏼‍♀️ For the shower curtain, it should cover 3 walls? Back and both sides? Leaving the top and front for ventilation only? She has the right temps during the day and the right temp drop at night.

So it would be better for me to move her entire enclosure into my room at night then, correct? That would be less stressful?
 

bbyoda

Chameleon Enthusiast
That makes sense, I didn’t even think of putting sticks and branches in soil! 🤦🏼‍♀️ For the shower curtain, it should cover 3 walls? Back and both sides? Leaving the top and front for ventilation only? She has the right temps during the day and the right temp drop at night.

So it would be better for me to move her entire enclosure into my room at night then, correct? That would be less stressful?
😁 Gotta use that soil!! Chameleon keeping is a great exercise in ingenuity. Yes start there and monitor your temps and humidity, then adjust based on how the enclosure temps and humidity are tracking during the day and at night. A wireless tracker like the Govee would help you keep an eye on all that more closely and without you having to be up late.
 

LisaS88

New Member
😁 Gotta use that soil!! Chameleon keeping is a great exercise in ingenuity. Yes start there and monitor your temps and humidity, then adjust based on how the enclosure temps and humidity are tracking during the day and at night. A wireless tracker like the Govee would help you keep an eye on all that more closely and without you having to be up late.
I’ll definitely look into a tracker like that! I was originally told humidity isn’t that big of a deal with Jackson’s as long as they have humidity at night. I’m always up super late anyway, I think I posted this at like 2am 😂 but, I’m always in bed doing research or watching shows or both. Lol
 

bbyoda

Chameleon Enthusiast
Humidity and temperature go hand in hand. For chams you want lower temps and higher humidity at night. Jackson's need that drop in temps and increase in humidity. I literally couldn't keep a Jackson's chameleon safely in my home in Orlando. I have to aggressively use AC and a dehumidifier to get temps and humidity in range for my Vieled.

It's kind of contradictory that someone said humidity wasn't important for Jackson's then said it's important at night. Lol nighttime is a good portion of his life!
 

Lindasjackson

Chameleon Enthusiast
Hi there! Congrats on your new little one! I have a Jackson’s Xanthalophus male and have kept them in the past as well. You’ve had a lot of very good advise given to you. I hope that I can help some as well. In my opinion I think what would be best for your little girl would be to permanently move her to the screened enclosure in your room and leave it in your room. The moving it upstairs and downstairs is too stressful for her. I would get at least a pothos plant in her cage as soon as you can and take out all the pipe cleaners like everyone said because the fuzzy parts can get in her eyes and give her eye infections. You can cover 3 sides of the enclosure with shower curtain or use a window plastic shrink kit that people use on their windows in cold weather but apply that when she’s on a plant outside the enclosure. I have no idea the dimensions of your cage but you should have her uvb lighting and heat lamp high enough above her basking branch that it gets no higher than 78 at the basking branch like jacksjill said. Even though it’s cold upstairs the heat lamp will keep her warm. You can make a diy dripper from a cup with some pin holes in the bottom and put a few ice cubes in and set it on top of the cage so she has water to drink so she stays hydrated. As for feeding, just be careful free ranging crickets and make sure you remove all uneaten ones before lights out because they will bite your Cham at night because they’re hungry to. I use a feeder cup to contain my bugs so they don’t bite my Cham and I remove any feeders he hasn’t eaten before the late afternoon. Your little girl needs12 hours of light and 12 hours of complete darkness as well as a temp drop down to 65 or below at night and humidity of 80% or above at night as well. You have done well to do your research and I hope you and this little one have many happy years together! Ask any questions you have as we’re all here to support you and others and we love helping! Oh and I wouldn’t handle her at all. Too stressful at this age and she’s too delicate to be handled.
 

LisaS88

New Member
Hi there! Congrats on your new little one! I have a Jackson’s Xanthalophus male and have kept them in the past as well. You’ve had a lot of very good advise given to you. I hope that I can help some as well. In my opinion I think what would be best for your little girl would be to permanently move her to the screened enclosure in your room and leave it in your room. The moving it upstairs and downstairs is too stressful for her. I would get at least a pothos plant in her cage as soon as you can and take out all the pipe cleaners like everyone said because the fuzzy parts can get in her eyes and give her eye infections. You can cover 3 sides of the enclosure with shower curtain or use a window plastic shrink kit that people use on their windows in cold weather but apply that when she’s on a plant outside the enclosure. I have no idea the dimensions of your cage but you should have her uvb lighting and heat lamp high enough above her basking branch that it gets no higher than 78 at the basking branch like jacksjill said. Even though it’s cold upstairs the heat lamp will keep her warm. You can make a diy dripper from a cup with some pin holes in the bottom and put a few ice cubes in and set it on top of the cage so she has water to drink so she stays hydrated. As for feeding, just be careful free ranging crickets and make sure you remove all uneaten ones before lights out because they will bite your Cham at night because they’re hungry to. I use a feeder cup to contain my bugs so they don’t bite my Cham and I remove any feeders he hasn’t eaten before the late afternoon. Your little girl needs12 hours of light and 12 hours of complete darkness as well as a temp drop down to 65 or below at night and humidity of 80% or above at night as well. You have done well to do your research and I hope you and this little one have many happy years together! Ask any questions you have as we’re all here to support you and others and we love helping! Oh and I wouldn’t handle her at all. Too stressful at this age and she’s too delicate to be handled.
Thank you, all of this helps a lot! I’ll be getting some more plants in her enclosure ASAP and remove the pipe cleaners and work on getting the sticks and branches and stuff all put in this one enclosure.
 

LisaS88

New Member
DDF6A4DA-54E9-4132-96BF-657800CE608A.jpeg

This is both related and unrelated to my post. This is one of the fellow hatchlings that my friend has. She said it has developed this odd coloring and keeps falling over. Do y’all have any advice on this? Again, unfortunately we do not have exotic vets here so we’re on our own.
 

Lindasjackson

Chameleon Enthusiast
It looks like stress coloring to me. Tell her the same as we advised you including to not handle the baby at all! She needs to be in her cage with plants to hide in so she feels safe. I can’t stress this enough! I know you both are trying so hard and you love these little chams and want what’s best for them. Invite your friend to join the forum as well and well help her to.
 
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