First of all, thank you for any thoughts, ideas or help in advance. I’m sorry this is so long. And I probably went overboard with info and pics, sorry again. I also have no idea why the pics aren’t straight. I took them straight with my iPad.
Chameleon Info:
Thanks again. ?
Chameleon Info:
- Your Chameleon - Female veiled (Lula June) about 8-9 months old. We’ve had her about 2-3 months. We got her from Pet Co.
- Handling - Every day, multiple times a day, until Wednesday.
- Feeding - I offer her crickets, meal worms, super worms, horn worms, Dubia roaches and wax worms. She seems to be a picky eater. One week she’ll eat worms the next week only crickets. I offer most of them to her every day, most often twice a day. I want her to eat fresh and gut loaded feeders. I feed her as much as she’ll eat. She hasn’t been one to over eat, if anything, she under eats. I keep all the feeders in separate containers. I even have a hospital they can relax in for a day after she doesn’t eat them. Lol, sad but true. The containers are clear hard plastic bins with tops that have slits in them for air flow. I feed them cucumbers, apples, oranges, sweet potatoes and carrots fresh every day. They all also have Flukers high calcium cricket diet and Mazuri Better Bug Gut Loading Diet that I got from the vet. I put those in water bottle tops and bury them in the oats so they are flush and the feeders can get to them. I also have wet cotton balls in with the crickets. Not dripping wet but wet.
- Supplements - Zoo Med’s Reptivite with D3 4-5 days a week. I now know that with D3 should only be given once every 2 weeks. I’m trying to find a good supplement without D3 and a multi vitamin. If I remember correctly the without D3 should be given like 5 days a week and the multi vitamin should be given once every 2 weeks opposite the with D3 schedule? I also, very lightly, dust her feeder bowl with the with D3 so that the worms and roaches can’t crawl out. No idea if this actually works?
- Watering - We have a ReptiRain set to mist once an hour for 15 seconds. I also hand mist 2-3 times a day for about a minute each time. I have a DIY dripper that works perfectly. I also treat all of the water with ReptiSafe. I don’t see her drink so lately I’ve been giving her water by hand. I have to force the first drop or 2 into her mouth (VERY gently) then she drinks without issue until she’s done.
- Fecal Description - Her poop and urates look good now. This has been an up and down issue. She was eating moss so we removed it all from her cage. Like I said, she’ll eat then she won’t so then she doesn’t poop and I always freak out and take her to the vet. Her poops have been consistently dark brown. Her urates have been all over the place. But, again, now that I’m hand watering her they are a nice white color with a light yellowish tip. I asked the vet if she needed to be tested for parasites and she said no.
- History - Ever since we brought her home she’s loved to be out of her enclosure. She seemed anxious almost to get out. Like she couldn’t get out fast enough. She was dark in her enclosure most of the time, now most of the time she’s light green (since we moved her cage) and when sleeping and out of the enclosure. She loved to just hang out on my shoulder and walk around on our couch. We have 3 cats so we watch her like hawks. Like I said, we’ve had our concerns/issues and have brought her to the vet a few times. Most recently she got a clean bill of health. The doc said she had lots of follicles and that eggs may be on the way? We have an egg laying bin that we keep clean (including sand). When she’s in her enclosure and doesn’t want to come out or be disturbed she’ll turn kind of sideways and puff up a little like don’t touch me. It doesn’t seem too traumatic to me. At that point she doesn’t get dark. She’s never bitten us (knock wood).
- Cage Type - Zoo Med Reptibreeze open air cage. Metal mesh screen on all 4 sides and top. 24x24x48. We put plexiglass on 3 sides about 1/2 way up to help with leaking.
- Lighting - My hubs gets up about 7am and turns all her lights on. I turn them all off at night. We have, for main heat, the Exo Terra Intense Basking Spot 120v 60hz 150w. The Zoo Med Reptisun 5.0 uvb self ballasted lamp 2u 13w AC 120v 80hz 0.14a. And the Zoo Med Classified UL 100w 120v heat emitter model CE-100 vivarium heater LF-10.
- Temperature - Daytime is 100° at the very top/basking spot with 45% humidity. Bottom is 73° 53% humidity. Unfortunately I don’t have overnight temps or humidity. We keep our house at 72° year round. We have a dual temp and humidity gauge at the top and 1 temp gauge and 1 humidity in the middle. Neither are digital.
- Humidity - Sorry, I jumped ahead on the last question. Like I said we have an automatic mister, a dripper and I hand mist 2-3 times a day until everything is dripping.
- Plants - We have one live pathos and one live corn plant, the rest are fake.
- Placement - Her cage is in our living room. I’ve included a pic so you can see about how far away she is from our couch. Like I said, until recently she loved being out of her cage. And just to mention it she appears to be a heavy sleeper and she’s on a pretty normal schedule. I also put two towels to cover where she sleeps so she isn’t bothered by the light from the tv. And it’s just me and the hubs so nothing crazy going on. You can see (the VERY dusty, ? sorry) vent above her cage, is doesn’t blow out but it gently sucks in. We had her in the dining room but she was dark all the time in her cage so we moved her to her new location. I think you can see in the pic but the top of her cage is almost to the ceiling.
- Location - St. Louis, MO.
Thanks again. ?
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