A few changes


I was going to make a few changes to my chameleon's enclosure and I figured I would run it by the community as I do most things. First of all, we're swapping out her egg-laying container for a bigger one- used to be about three inches deep, our new one has a 7" diameter and is 7" deep. Similarly, we're replacing the course sand that filled the old one with a much finer sand. This is because she has been eating a lot of sand and we figure maybe she might be discouraged if the grains were smaller? Idunno. Also, after seeing someone's post saying that they were able to stop their chameleon from eating sand by feeding their chameleon carrots and greens from a tray, I have been considering feeding my chameleon by trapping her crickets in a little tupperware box and putting the box in the cage instead of releasing the crickets in the cage. This seems like it might have the potential downside of letting her get trapped in there, so I figured it would be good to get some input on that. She's only five or six months old but she may be gravid, I am not sure. Here is an information sheet on her, since it can never hurt to include one of those:

Female veiled chameleon, about five months old. Owned it for three weeks. I handle her about one time every two weeks. This is because she has been fairly aggressive lately. I feed her medium to large crickets- about ten per day on a normal day. I feed the crickets fresh carrots and broccoli. I dust them with Zoomed Repti Calcium without D3, and twice a month with Calcium with D3. Soon I will be purchasing multivitamins as another dusting supplement, which I will use twice a month. I mist her twice a day with hot water (comes out lukewarm), and I have a cup of water with a hole in it that I fill up about twice a day. I do see her drinking water from this. Fecal matter is dark brown, sometimes with a white section. I have never tested her for parasites. She received a burn on her left side on the second day we got her, but the situation that caused this has been remedied- I moved the lamp.
Cage is about 24x24x36 inches, wire mesh. During the day, I use a 100W basking spot lamp from zoo med and a 15W UVB tube lamp (33% UVA, 10% UVB). At night it gets pretty cold, so I use a space heater to keep the temperature at about 60 degrees. I switch it to daytime lighting at around 7:30 AM, and switch it to nighttime lighting at around 9:30 PM. I am using two live ficus in my enclosure, as well as a climbing vine, a large piece of driftwood, and a fake bush. I keep the temperature in the enclosure between 70 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit, and I try and keep the humidity at around 60%. The temperature of her basking spot is 80 degrees. The table that the enclosure is resting on is about three feet off of the floor. I keep her enclosure in my room, and people do tend to walk around this room several times a day. This provides the advantage of being able to keep an eye on her throughout the day. Her enclosure is next to a window, so she gets plenty of natural light during the day in addition to her two normal lights. This window is always closed, but I keep the blinds open. The sun never shines directly through this window. I am located in Sonoma County in California. I live about an hour north of San Francisco.


Staff member
If you want to cup feed just make sure she can climb back out if she does happen to fall in. I don't think mine has ever fallen into his cup but I know he'd big enough to be able to stand up and reach out to escape if that were to happen. May take some trial and error to find a good "cup".

The only real problem I saw was using broccoli as gutload. Broccoli has goitrogens and high oxalic acid, which binds to calcium and prevents it from being digested. Better veggies to use are mustard greens, collard greens, turnip greens, and dandelions (pesticide free). This site has nutritional info on commonly available fruits and veggies to use for gutload. Aim for those high in calcium and limit oxalates and goitrogens.
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