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You can use it for any chameleon type, just use it sparingly and no more than once or twice a month, as is advised with most vitamin supplements that contain fat soluble vitamins.

From what I understand, dendrocare added PREformed A or created a more absorbable delivery system, because frogs were suffering from not enough. According to a knowledgeable source, frogs can utliize large amounts of A, much more than chameleons. Dendrocare, when compared label to label with...

I’d like to update this. Since using dendrocare for years and experiencing success, they have reformulated and the amount of vitamin A is HIGHER than comparable products. For this reason, I DO NOT advise using it more than twice a month.

Still haven’t bought a place there yet, but likely Cape Coral, Punta Gorda, or South to Homestead.

Just been busy. Moving to FL, this September, so my chameleons will have outdoor enclosures and my life will be settling down some.

My enclosure is still growing strong, with no accumulation of waste and healthy plants and animals.

There are pros and cons for different keeper, with different keeping methods, species, and climates. There are some substrates that are never suitable, some that are sometimes suitable, and some that are 100% safe, whether used as a bioactive substrate or not. Similarly, “bioactive” is a...

It’s is a pepperonia sad they are mostly well suited for Chameleon habitats, with medium lighting, though that species will resent being too wet at the roots.

I use this one. It is very reliable, though not very quiet. DONT LET IT RUN DRY!

It’s simpler to work with a few fixtures, rather than the mess of wires and coordinated timers I have for the multiple types of lighting. The T5s are safer in regards to them using them for basking, in that they are less hot and don’t have to be positioned so perfectly. My enclosure is 6’7”...

I have 160 watt MV, but will omit them with the addition of the T5 fixtures and the 2 uvb bulbs per T5 fixture will be plenty strong enough.

Probably the 6 tube T8 fixtures, retrofitted with 5000k LEDs and 2 Arcadia 14% bulbs. I swapping them with the T5 versions soon.

I put mine on a small paper plate, next to wet gutload or moisture source. Often I’m using babyfood or unsweetened applesauce as a moisture source. For superworms, I trim down the sides of the plates and place the babyfood or applesauce on the plate and sprinkle some dry gutload on top. I even...

I’m trying to find as warm and humid as possible, without being too hot, as unlikely to be flooded during a hurricane as possible, and as frost free as possible, ideally with a private backyard of at least 1/2 acre, somewhere progressive and with good job opportunities, in the outer burbs of a...

I’m researching between Tarpon Springs and St.Petersberg.

Got around to weighting these guys, almost a year later and the male is now 520 grams and the female is 600 grams. The male went on a 4 month spell, over the Summer, where he’d only eat once a week. He’s back to eating every other day or so and I believe it’s was just a matter of him adjusting...

Soil without perlite, charcoal, bark, or some other air space holder is not conducive to the life of healthy plants. Use a well aerated soil and cover the surface with leaves, weed block, or a thin layer of coir.

I don’t like to use food as bedding, because they soil it, their deaths contaminate it, and it can grow mold, which they might consume. I use coir, peat moss, carefresh, or any similar substrate that can be dampened and allowed to dry, without molding or becoming foul. I don’t keep the roaches...

I wish I had more answers. The atmospheric pressure may be triggering the hatch, but wouldn’t harm them. Put them in something ventilated, keep the lightly moist and keep temps UP 76-78 and see if warmth gives them the energy to hatch.

This is an unusual time for them to hatch. My melleri eggs incubated at room temperature, less than 75F and no cooler than 65F. I kept the eggs in a sealed plastic container, with some pin holes, and use coir as an incubating media. I kept things on the dryish side, with enough moisture to form...