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When gutloading crickets or roaches I use collard greens, turnip greens, mustard greens and dandelion greens. I use acorn, yellow and green squash. I use zucchini, escarole, endive, sweet potato, carrots and the occasional banana. I don't use a lot of fruit as it has a lot of sugar. This...

A lower watt ceramic heat emitter will help during the winter. The heat the air in the enclosure and do not produce any light that will disturb their day/night cycle. I use these in my bearded dragon cages during the winter. Here is a link to one...

You should be sure to keep the bulb at least 5 or 6 inches from the top of your chameleon's head to prevent burns. If you can't get the temperature high enough with this distance, you may need a higher watt bulb. Be sure that you are measuring your temps with a digital thermometer with a probe...

I put a egg laying container in with my females when I move them to their "big girl" cages.. at about 3 and a half months.. and leave it in there for the rest of their lives. You never know when you will miss the signs that she is ready to lay and become egg bound. When she does start digging...

I may be wrong but she looks like she is already showing gravid coloration.. that may be the "glow" you mentioned ;)

The article is an explanation about how chameleons change colors and why. It doesn't say anything about the actual picture though I am sure it is just a photoshopped picture. The article talks about chameleons changing colors based on mood, receptive/gravid coloration, temperature, etc. It...

I just got a standard 40g tank for my trio and it works very well. I definitely have noticed a shorter drying period between mistings and the substrate still stays slightly damp as it should.

Set up looks great! Just a little word of caution though, I have a 30 high for my pygmies and Roo warned me that it may be hard to let the excess humidity escape the higher tanks and boy was he correct. They don't let the tank dry enough between mistings, so be very careful not to over water...

This is one of the most informative sites I have ever seen on blue tongued skinks. The site also has an entire page devoted to the care of skinks with MBD. I can not say much on the topic of expense.. each vet varies and it really depends on the severity of his/her symptoms. It is admirable...

Sounds like you may have a gravid female who is hanging in the bottom of the cage looking for a place to lay her eggs. Chameleons do not have to breed to become gravid. Do you have an egg laying chamber in your enclosure? If not you need to get a container (think, large flower pot...

Wow, I am jealous! :eek: :p

I don't think I would use anything styrofoam just in case your cham decides to take a bite out of it :) Hungry crickets have also been known to nibble on styrofoam, and it can be transferred to your chameleon this way as well. Just a word of caution!

Your cham definitely needs to see a vet as soon as possible. I know that this isn't great advice but there are several reasons that a chameleon will have weakness in the rear legs and without seeing the animal, it is hard to determine exactly what the problem is with her. Usually when...

I will tell you what I do for my chameleons. Everyone's opinion differs slightly on gutloading and supplementing, so this is just my routine ;) I gutload my crickets, roaches and superworms on a diet of mixed grain infant baby cereal, alfalfa, shredded and unsweetened coconut...

RepCal with out D3 is usually available at pet stores. There is also Miner-al I that is often available, (Miner-al O contains D3).. Jurrasical is another. Pretty much any calcium supplement that lists no other ingredients is okay to use.

Leaving a container full of sand in the bottom of the cage is okay, otherwise you will not be able to tell if she is ready to lay or not. Don't just put a layer of sand in the bottom of the cage though. Get a container that is big enough so that she has room on all sides of her and is 8 or 10...

Dusting every other day is great. Make sure that you are using pure calcium with NO D3 added. The calcium with D3 can be used every other week or so. D3 can build up in the system, so you need to get the kind with no D3 and use that for your every other day dusting. ;)

You can use a regular incandescent bulb to both light and provide a basking spot for your cage. There is no need for the expensive basking lights. A flood light or just a regular household bulb work just as well. You can even put 2 up top if you need more light.. just be sure that the basking...

I would back the basking spot up to around 87 or so for a chameleon that young. They aren't great at regulating heat when they are small. The open mouth while basking is completely normal though. This often means that they are too hot. They open their mouth to release heat.

I would just throw a few crickets in.. and let him be. Don't get him out.. or take pictures.. or hover around ;) He is scared and stressed. Moving to a new place is a bit overwhelming for these little guys. He will come around. Just be sure he is getting enough water and mainly through...