Feeding chameleons isn't as straightforward as dropping bugs in a cage. These creatures, especially veileds, will literally eat themselves into health problems if we let them. Healthy feeding frequency and amount varies significantly based on life stage.
Adult Feeding Guidelines Your typical adult panther or veiled chameleon does well with 3-5 appropriately sized feeders every other day. Though this is just an average starting point. The key is being mindful of caloric intake. Obviously, three dubia roaches have much more on them than five houseflies! Veiled chameleons are particularly prone to overeating. Females will supercharge egg production if overfed, producing 60-100+ eggs instead of a healthy 20-30. This can be life-threatening. But, most people start with a juvenile chameleon which has different needs!
Juvenile Requirements Most people acquire 3-4 month old juveniles. These growing machines need daily feeding—as much as they'll eat. Their job is to grow big as fast as they can. You'll need to watch for that transition point when they stop growing longer/taller and start growing wider. That's when you shift to adult feeding schedules. I’ll talk about what that transition point is at the end of this blog
Baby Chameleon Needs I give my baby chameleons constant food availability. I maintain fruit fly cultures, feeder cups with pinhead crickets, and supplement with bean beetles every afternoon. Babies are growing machines! Now, to be accurate, how quickly they grow depends on species. Panthers and veileds grow quickly. Parson’s are more leisurely about it. I have had Ambilobe panthers explode in growth and Ambanja panthers take four times as long! So, I can share general guidelines, but keep a look out for individual growth patterns. Baby chameleon care is specialized enough that I wrote an entire book about it—Tiny Dragons, available on Amazon. (I am an amazon affiliate so a purchase here helps support the Chameleon Academy)
Gravid Female Requirements Here's where timing becomes critical. Never overfeed females before they start developing eggs—that triggers those dangerous oversized clutches. But once they're gravid? Feed daily. They're building 20-30+ eggs or bodies and need the nutrition. As eggs develop and fill the body cavity, appetite naturally decreases. I continue generous feeding for about a week post-laying to aid recovery.
Feeder Size Considerations The old rule about feeders being the width between the chameleon's eyes? It's arbitrary but gives you a starting point. They will take smaller and much larger food as well. Chameleons enjoy variety in sizes. I've seen panthers zap fruit flies for fun and veileds take down small birds. The larger the feeder the more nutrition, but also the more likely that the feeder will fight back and could hurt your chameleon. The safest and most effective size feeder is the one that is easily dispatched by that first chomp.
Nutrition and Enrichment Gutloading feeders for 24-48 hours before feeding is essential. Those pet store crickets are often nutritionally empty. Use quality cricket chow with carrots and sweet potatoes.
Beyond nutrition, consider enrichment. Wild chameleons hunt diverse prey with different movements, colors, and behaviors. Our common feeders—crickets, roaches, superworms—are all nocturnal with different nutritional profiles than diurnal insects. Mix in flies, grasshoppers, or silkworms when possible. Your chameleon's excitement level will tell you what they prefer.
Monitoring Weight Panthers show weight gain in the pads atop their head—aim for level, not bulging or sunken. Veileds store fat in their casque—it should remain thin. Adjust feeding gradually if you see weight issues.
Feeding chameleons is part art, part science, and lots of observation. Start with these guidelines, then adjust based on your individual chameleon's needs.
For more details on feeding chameleons you can check out the module on feeding here: https://chameleonacademy.com/basics-feeding-chameleons/
If you would like to watch a video on feeding chameleons, here you go!
Adult Feeding Guidelines Your typical adult panther or veiled chameleon does well with 3-5 appropriately sized feeders every other day. Though this is just an average starting point. The key is being mindful of caloric intake. Obviously, three dubia roaches have much more on them than five houseflies! Veiled chameleons are particularly prone to overeating. Females will supercharge egg production if overfed, producing 60-100+ eggs instead of a healthy 20-30. This can be life-threatening. But, most people start with a juvenile chameleon which has different needs!
Juvenile Requirements Most people acquire 3-4 month old juveniles. These growing machines need daily feeding—as much as they'll eat. Their job is to grow big as fast as they can. You'll need to watch for that transition point when they stop growing longer/taller and start growing wider. That's when you shift to adult feeding schedules. I’ll talk about what that transition point is at the end of this blog
Baby Chameleon Needs I give my baby chameleons constant food availability. I maintain fruit fly cultures, feeder cups with pinhead crickets, and supplement with bean beetles every afternoon. Babies are growing machines! Now, to be accurate, how quickly they grow depends on species. Panthers and veileds grow quickly. Parson’s are more leisurely about it. I have had Ambilobe panthers explode in growth and Ambanja panthers take four times as long! So, I can share general guidelines, but keep a look out for individual growth patterns. Baby chameleon care is specialized enough that I wrote an entire book about it—Tiny Dragons, available on Amazon. (I am an amazon affiliate so a purchase here helps support the Chameleon Academy)
Gravid Female Requirements Here's where timing becomes critical. Never overfeed females before they start developing eggs—that triggers those dangerous oversized clutches. But once they're gravid? Feed daily. They're building 20-30+ eggs or bodies and need the nutrition. As eggs develop and fill the body cavity, appetite naturally decreases. I continue generous feeding for about a week post-laying to aid recovery.
Feeder Size Considerations The old rule about feeders being the width between the chameleon's eyes? It's arbitrary but gives you a starting point. They will take smaller and much larger food as well. Chameleons enjoy variety in sizes. I've seen panthers zap fruit flies for fun and veileds take down small birds. The larger the feeder the more nutrition, but also the more likely that the feeder will fight back and could hurt your chameleon. The safest and most effective size feeder is the one that is easily dispatched by that first chomp.
Nutrition and Enrichment Gutloading feeders for 24-48 hours before feeding is essential. Those pet store crickets are often nutritionally empty. Use quality cricket chow with carrots and sweet potatoes.
Beyond nutrition, consider enrichment. Wild chameleons hunt diverse prey with different movements, colors, and behaviors. Our common feeders—crickets, roaches, superworms—are all nocturnal with different nutritional profiles than diurnal insects. Mix in flies, grasshoppers, or silkworms when possible. Your chameleon's excitement level will tell you what they prefer.
Monitoring Weight Panthers show weight gain in the pads atop their head—aim for level, not bulging or sunken. Veileds store fat in their casque—it should remain thin. Adjust feeding gradually if you see weight issues.
Feeding chameleons is part art, part science, and lots of observation. Start with these guidelines, then adjust based on your individual chameleon's needs.
For more details on feeding chameleons you can check out the module on feeding here: https://chameleonacademy.com/basics-feeding-chameleons/
If you would like to watch a video on feeding chameleons, here you go!
