Wanted to check up with the experts here

MrBoaJangles

New Member
Chameleon Info:

* Your Chameleon - Got my Veiled Cham a few months ago, I would say she is about 5-6 months old.
* Handling - I handle her about 2-3 a week.
* Feeding - I feed her Superworms, Crikets, and formerly fruitflys, but have changed to wax worms and have ordered dubia roaches after discovering this forum. I fed her as much as she could eat the first few months. Now I offer a dozen medium sized crickets, some fruit flys and a super worm or two.
* Supplements - I use Reptical with D3 and Reptivite. I dust once a week.
* Watering - Started off with a waterfall and manually spraying but the Cham wasn't getting enough water so I installed a dripper and removed the waterfall. I see her drink at least a few times a week.
* Fecal Description - Soft brown poop with what looks like normal consistency to it, urates are now white since the dropper was added. She seems to poop once a day on average that I have noticed when I spot clean during the week.
* History - Lola has always had a good attitude to being held and will perch on you in the evening and go to sleep on my shoulder or hand, though the stress of waking her up to move her back into her cage has caused me to not have her out past her bed time. Once in a while during the day she will be roaming her cage and end up on the bottom and then looks frustrated trying to climb back up turning stress colors.


Cage Info:

* Cage Type - 18x18x36" repti-breeze screen cage
* Lighting - Exoterra double bulb hood top with reflector. Using two Reptisun 5.0 bulbs (compact florescent) set on a timer (9:00am-9:00pm)
* Temperature - 80 degrees F at top with a 40 watt standard bulb for heat at top (will replace with a clamp 75watt UVB basking lamp once cage is moved soon) 74 degrees F at bottom
* Humidity - 30-45%
* Plants - one Umbrella Tree
* Placement - cage is 3 feet off ground in living room, will be moved into office/pet room in a few weeks.
* Location - I live in North Texas (Fort Worth)


Current Problem - Just wanted to check with the experts as I am always wanting to improve where I can. I attached pics of her. Both are current.
 

Attachments

  • 24772_1381649148318_1444627366_31052538_1206908_n.jpg
    24772_1381649148318_1444627366_31052538_1206908_n.jpg
    51 KB · Views: 109
  • 26482_1406886379233_1444627366_31113436_6283218_n.jpg
    26482_1406886379233_1444627366_31113436_6283218_n.jpg
    60.2 KB · Views: 148
Chameleon Info:

* Your Chameleon - Got my Veiled Cham a few months ago, I would say she is about 5-6 months old.
* Handling - I handle her about 2-3 a week.
* Feeding - I feed her Superworms, Crikets, and formerly fruitflys, but have changed to wax worms and have ordered dubia roaches after discovering this forum. I fed her as much as she could eat the first few months. Now I offer a dozen medium sized crickets, some fruit flys and a super worm or two.
* Supplements - I use Reptical with D3 and Reptivite. I dust once a week.
* Watering - Started off with a waterfall and manually spraying but the Cham wasn't getting enough water so I installed a dripper and removed the waterfall. I see her drink at least a few times a week.
* Fecal Description - Soft brown poop with what looks like normal consistency to it, urates are now white since the dropper was added. She seems to poop once a day on average that I have noticed when I spot clean during the week.
* History - Lola has always had a good attitude to being held and will perch on you in the evening and go to sleep on my shoulder or hand, though the stress of waking her up to move her back into her cage has caused me to not have her out past her bed time. Once in a while during the day she will be roaming her cage and end up on the bottom and then looks frustrated trying to climb back up turning stress colors.


Cage Info:

* Cage Type - 18x18x36" repti-breeze screen cage
* Lighting - Exoterra double bulb hood top with reflector. Using two Reptisun 5.0 bulbs (compact florescent) set on a timer (9:00am-9:00pm)
* Temperature - 80 degrees F at top with a 40 watt standard bulb for heat at top (will replace with a clamp 75watt UVB basking lamp once cage is moved soon) 74 degrees F at bottom
* Humidity - 30-45%
* Plants - one Umbrella Tree
* Placement - cage is 3 feet off ground in living room, will be moved into office/pet room in a few weeks.
* Location - I live in North Texas (Fort Worth)


Current Problem - Just wanted to check with the experts as I am always wanting to improve where I can. I attached pics of her. Both are current.

I'm in Ft Worth too, welcome to the forum. I'm not an expert but do see a few things that need to be changed. Also, here is a great thread to read:

https://www.chameleonforums.com/basic-husbandry-38769/

Female chams need a laying bin in their cage at all times. It should be moist play sand about 12" deep.

Supplements need to be tweaked, that's under the thread I gave you.

Turn off and throw away the CF bulbs, they are known to cause eye issues. You should use one Reptisun 5.0 tubular bulb.

You will find the people on this forum very helpful and a lot of experienced keepers. I have learned so much.
 
I left out the bin, I have a plastic bird seed basket hooked inside the cage, but its only 3-4" deep so its good to know that she needs 12" of depth. I will hunt around the forum to see if there are any good cheap solutions.

I do have a Reptisun 10.0 tube light w/hood that I bought for my Boa before I realized she didnt need anything more then a basic light. But I read that a Reptisun 5.0 is best, and would 2 bulbs be prefered or is one enough?

Thanks for the link and feedback Donna! Did you go check out the recent Reptile Expo in Arlington by and chance?
 
Yeah I would say everything is good just get rid of the compacts and use a reptisun 5.0 florescent tube.

Ohhh and Im pretty sure lola is a boy, 99.9% sure.

And welcome to the forums. He looks great;)
 
I left out the bin, I have a plastic bird seed basket hooked inside the cage, but its only 3-4" deep so its good to know that she needs 12" of depth. I will hunt around the forum to see if there are any good cheap solutions.

I do have a Reptisun 10.0 tube light w/hood that I bought for my Boa before I realized she didnt need anything more then a basic light. But I read that a Reptisun 5.0 is best, and would 2 bulbs be prefered or is one enough?

Thanks for the link and feedback Donna! Did you go check out the recent Reptile Expo in Arlington by and chance?

As far as the bulb it depends on how dense your screen mesh is, a picture would be great of your set up and cham. You can use the search button to find some good threads on laying bins.

If you are talking about the NARBC, no I didn't make that one. I did go the Tx Reptile show a while back.

There are several N. Tx members here and we have been thinking of putting together a Chameleon Club but it's just in the "thinking" stage right now LOL.
 
Just took a closer look at the pics and I would say I am 10000000% sure its male.

LOL, well the lady I got him from at the petstore told me backwords... she said spur equals girl... opposite... need a new name I guess... LOL At least I dont need to worry about clutches.... LOL
 
Lol yup. Its a good thing you didnt buy for breeding purposes then. Youl find if your only keeping 1 cham and for fun or an addition to the collection, a male is much better than a female, colour wise and with care (because of clutches).
 
LOL, well the lady I got him from at the petstore told me backwords... she said spur equals girl... opposite... need a new name I guess... LOL At least I dont need to worry about clutches.... LOL

If that's what they told you, then for sure don't take any advice from them or what they told you. Which pet store?
 
If that's what they told you, then for sure don't take any advice from them or what they told you. Which pet store?

Got him from Petland in Lewisville. They closed down a week ago sadly. But since going to the Reptile Expo a few weeks back I will never buy from a pet store as far as an animal goes unless its a rescue. There were so many great breeders and tons of great animals!
 
Got him from Petland in Lewisville. They closed down a week ago sadly. But since going to the Reptile Expo a few weeks back I will never buy from a pet store as far as an animal goes unless its a rescue. There were so many great breeders and tons of great animals!

Yes and you will find that there are a lot of breeders on this forum as well as site sponsors with great reputations. You know you will be getting a quality animal and the support to care for it.
 
You said..."I use Reptical with D3 and Reptivite. I dust once a week."...I dust at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder (like Rep-cal) to help make up for the usually poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus found in insects.

I dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder to ensure that the chameleon gets some D3 but allowing it to produce the rest naturally from exposure to UVB light in its cage. D3 can build up in the system, so you have to be careful with it.

I dust twice a month with a vitamin powder (Herptivite) that has a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A. Beta carotene can't build up in the system but there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert it...so some people give prEformed vitamin A once in a while. PrEformed vitamin A can build up in the system and excess prEformed vitamin A may prevent the D3 from doing its job and lead to MBD...so its important to be careful with it.

D3, vitamin A, calcium and phos. are important players in bone health and need to be in balance. When you are trying to balance them you need to look at the supplements you use, at what you use to feed the insects and what you feed to the chameleon.

Gutloading/feeding the insects a nutritious diet and appropriate temperatures are important too.

You said..."Using two Reptisun 5.0 bulbs (compact florescent) set on a timer (9:00am-9:00pm)"...some compacts can cause eye problems. I don't know if yours would or not.
 
Thanks for the info, I have set up a new schedule with my supplements on my Ical on my Iphone after reading up on supplementation and reading your post. I do gut load my crickets with lots of good stuff, carrots, collard greens, potatoes, and apples. I think with the proper adustments my good diet will turn into an awesome diet!

You said..."I use Reptical with D3 and Reptivite. I dust once a week."...I dust at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder (like Rep-cal) to help make up for the usually poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus found in insects.

I dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder to ensure that the chameleon gets some D3 but allowing it to produce the rest naturally from exposure to UVB light in its cage. D3 can build up in the system, so you have to be careful with it.

I dust twice a month with a vitamin powder (Herptivite) that has a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A. Beta carotene can't build up in the system but there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert it...so some people give prEformed vitamin A once in a while. PrEformed vitamin A can build up in the system and excess prEformed vitamin A may prevent the D3 from doing its job and lead to MBD...so its important to be careful with it.

D3, vitamin A, calcium and phos. are important players in bone health and need to be in balance. When you are trying to balance them you need to look at the supplements you use, at what you use to feed the insects and what you feed to the chameleon.

Gutloading/feeding the insects a nutritious diet and appropriate temperatures are important too.

You said..."Using two Reptisun 5.0 bulbs (compact florescent) set on a timer (9:00am-9:00pm)"...some compacts can cause eye problems. I don't know if yours would or not.
 
Back
Top Bottom