The Importance of Live Plants in the Pet Chameleon Habitat

CasqueAbove

Chameleon Enthusiast
Often when we think of plants for our chameleons, we are thinking in terms of safety, hiding places, and overall trying to give a natural appearance.


However plants play a far bigger role. Without going into the full process, we know that plants can absorb water and move it to its leaves and stems. The basic way this works is that as water molecules evaporate from the leaves. Because water molecules are slightly polar (like a magnet) this evaporation process pulls on the next water molecule, and that pulls on the next and on down the line. Why do we care about this? Well it is that very process that is putting water molecules into the air, thus increasing humidity.

If we try to increase humidity with just substrate, the bottom may register slightly higher, but the pull of gravity on the water molecules keeps them on the bottom. A plant on the other hand, can over come gravity and move the water to its leaves, thus spreading the molecules throughout the enclosure. This is why it can be so difficult to keep humidity up in a cage with few or no live plants, and seems to just be easy in a bioActive.

My thoughts,

Different plants will have different evaporation, water needs, so looking for plants that have high water demands should aid in higher create more humidity?

I have seen many put plastic or sorts on screen cages to aid humidity. I was wondering how effective it would be to keep large bushy plants on the outside of the cage, but right up next to it. Maybe one one either side ? Could this be an option for some?
 
I just put Episcia in my cage and veil comes down and eats it like a Stegosaurus. Just keeps eating it. It is not listed by Florida Chams as safe plant but I have seen it on other lists. Safe or not?
 
Eating the Episcia.
 

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Certain plants absorb and transpire more moisture than others. There is a NASA study out there on this. Arecea Palm was leagues ahead of the competition in terms of amount it transpired, if i recall correctly.

You are correct that grouping plants, whether in or out, will help increase and maintain humidity. Some plants require that higher humidity to thrive. Prayer plants and Calathea, for example, thrive in high humidity, and grouping them with other plants can help in keeping them. Calatheas are probably my favorite, but even with high humidity in Maryland, and literally hundreds of plants in my house, they still get crispy on me.
 
my female veiled only seems to eat plants in the winter. but when she does eat them she destroys them. She actually ate so much of my corn plant she actually almost killed it.
 
my female veiled only seems to eat plants in the winter. but when she does eat them she destroys them. She actually ate so much of my corn plant she actually almost killed it.

That is why I was thinking plants outside the enclosure. I have also been working on the idea of rotating plants.
Those females can do a number, that's for sure.
 
That is why I was thinking plants outside the enclosure. I have also been working on the idea of rotating plants.
Those females can do a number, that's for sure.
I have 4 big trees (about 4-5 ft tall) that are heavy but movable. In the summer and spring we can just stick them in their trees and leave them there for like an hour or so(of course under supervision) and then in the winter we bring them inside and they can chill there too. The only problem we're having is we havent figured out how to give them uvb while on those free ranges... a project that i will undergo in winter
 
I have 4 big trees (about 4-5 ft tall) that are heavy but movable. In the summer and spring we can just stick them in their trees and leave them there for like an hour or so(of course under supervision) and then in the winter we bring them inside and they can chill there too. The only problem we're having is we havent figured out how to give them uvb while on those free ranges... a project that i will undergo in winter

Look into MV bulbs, MegaRay is the best, most documented and tested. They have a greater range and provide heat.
You do have to be careful, but their UVI guide is on target. They do suggest a Solometer, but this seems more to get the longevity. They are solid for 6 to 9 months, but can go 18. but without solometer, I change every 9.

My two have both grown up under these and are just over a year old. The female has laid viable clutches, I have 8 babies now. different light for them though.
 
Look into MV bulbs, MegaRay is the best, most documented and tested. They have a greater range and provide heat.
You do have to be careful, but their UVI guide is on target. They do suggest a Solometer, but this seems more to get the longevity. They are solid for 6 to 9 months, but can go 18. but without solometer, I change every 9.

My two have both grown up under these and are just over a year old. The female has laid viable clutches, I have 8 babies now. different light for them though.
do they shine a lot of bright light? i'm asking this because a lot of bright lights in the open make me headachy.

they're asking me wattages how many inches above should the light be?
 
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