Stuck shed and possibly sunken eyes?

[andre_24]

Hello everyone, I hope you guys can help! I’ve had my chameleon for about 3 and a half weeks and about 4 days after I got her she started shedding. She currently still has some shed stuck on her head and it’s been about 3 weeks, I was wondering if that was normal or if it has something to do with the husbandry. I was also wondering if her eyes look sunken or if they seem normal..

Just to clarify, she never sleeps during the day, it was nighttime and I was about to turn off the uvb bulb which is much dimmer than the other 2 lights that turn off before.

 

[andre_24]

Chameleon Info:
Your Chameleon - She’s a veiled chameleon and I believe she’s a female. I asked the vendor and he said she was almost a year old. I’ve had her for 3 and a half weeks and I bought her at a reptile show. Shes still been mainly dark colors with occasional greens when i feed her and a pale-ish brown which im not sure if it‘s normal...
Handling - I’ve only handled her twice, the day I got her, and to put her on a plant while I cleaned her enclosure (which I’m never doing again). I’ve also been putting the hornworms or dubias on my arm and Moe (cham) climbs on my arm to eat the bug and i let her go back to her enclosure after and leave the rest on a food tray.
Feeding - I’m currently only feeding her medium sized dubias (10-12 a day) with an occasional hornworm. I’m getting her bsfl, waxworms, and hornworms next week as I’m trying to integrate more insects in her diet. I feed her at 2:30 ish when I get home from school. I gut load the dubias with carrots, apples, sweet potatoes, and bee pollen pellets.
Supplements - I’m currently using the repti calcium by zoo med (without D3) for every feeding. I also have the zoo med reptivite vitamins (without D3) and the PangeaCal calcium (with D3). I’m guving her Reptivite and PangeaCal twice a month (the 1st of the month and the 15th).
Watering - I mist in the morning and at night until I can see water dripping from the plants. I also keep a homemade dripper in the enclosure and it drips onto the leaves and into a container that I clean every time it’s full. At night I leave a humidifier on for her and turn it off in the morning. I used to see her drink when I first got her, not so much anymore but I’ve heard that’s normal.
Fecal Description - darkish brown with a bit of moisture (sometimes greenish brown) and white. She has never been tested for parasites.
History - I bought her on Sep 23, 2023 in the NARBC reptile show

Cage Info:
Cage Type - 18x18x24 screen type I’ve wrapped 2 sides in vinyl.
Lighting - i use the zoo med topical uvb and heat lighting dual kit as well as the jungle dawn. The uvb is the first light that turns on at 8:20am, then the heat lamp, the jungle dawn turns on at 8:30am, and at night jungle dawn turns off first at 9:10am, then heat lamp, then uvb at 9:30am ish. I want to buy the Arcadia pro T5 but I’m waiting until I get the 2x2x4 ft enclosure which isn’t until Nov., is that okay?
Temperature - during the day it’s around 80 in the basking area and the bottom it’s high 70s. In the night with the humidifier on it usually drops to the 60s and high 50s.
Humidity - during the day it’s around 40-50% and at night it stays around high 60-75 . I mist in the mornings and at night and I leave my humidifier on all night next to the enclosure. I use a zoo med hydrometer.
Plants - i am only using live plants. I have 2 pothos, 2 dwarf schefflera, and a dracaena Cinthia
Placement - She’s near a corner in my room, far from the entrance, so she gets less disturbances.
Location: Texas

 

[MissSkittles]

Hi. Give me a little bit and I’ll go thru your husbandry.

 

[MissSkittles]

I’ll be putting my feedback in bold.
Chameleon Info:
Your Chameleon - She’s a veiled chameleon and I believe she’s a female. Yes, looks like a pretty little lady to me. I asked the vendor and he said she was almost a year old. Did they say if she’s ever laid eggs or not? I’ve had her for 3 and a half weeks and I bought her at a reptile show. Shes still been mainly dark colors with occasional greens when i feed her and a pale-ish brown which im not sure if it‘s normal... I’d really like some clearer pics of her.
Handling - I’ve only handled her twice, the day I got her, and to put her on a plant while I cleaned her enclosure (which I’m never doing again). I’ve also been putting the hornworms or dubias on my arm and Moe (cham) climbs on my arm to eat the bug and i let her go back to her enclosure after and leave the rest on a food tray. Ok. Sounds like you’re working on building trust with her, which is excellent. https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/building-trust-with-your-chameleon.2396/
Feeding - I’m currently only feeding her medium sized dubias (10-12 a day) with an occasional hornworm. If she is a year old, you are way overfeeding her. The more you overfeed, the more eggs she’ll be producing, which more eggs increases risks for laying problems and shortens lifespans. You want to reduce her to 3-4 feeders, 3 days a week, plus occasional treats. Keep her basking temp no higher than 80 along with this. It may take a cycle, but this should greatly reduce the number of eggs she produces, the frequency which she lays eggs and possibly will prevent her from producing any eggs at all. I’m getting her bsfl, waxworms, and hornworms next week as I’m trying to integrate more insects in her diet. Great! Variety is important. Attaching some graphics below. I feed her at 2:30 ish when I get home from school. Preferably she should be fed in the morning so she has all day to bask and digest. I gut load the dubias with carrots, apples, sweet potatoes, and bee pollen pellets. Good, but you could maybe add to it to round it out. The healthier your bugs are, the more nutritious they are.
Supplements - I’m currently using the repti calcium by zoo med (without D3) for every feeding. I also have the zoo med reptivite vitamins (without D3) and the PangeaCal calcium (with D3). I’m guving her Reptivite and PangeaCal twice a month (the 1st of the month and the 15th). Yes, but no. Alternate using the ReptiVite and D3, so that they aren’t given the same day. For example, give the ReptiVite on the 1st & 15th and the D3 on the 7th & 21st. There are combination products that are formulated to be a multivitamin and D3 that would be given one feeding every other week. Reptivite with D3 is one and the other is Repashy calcium plus LoD.
Watering - I mist in the morning and at night until I can see water dripping from the plants. I also keep a homemade dripper in the enclosure and it drips onto the leaves and into a container that I clean every time it’s full. How long does the dripper run for? Ideally it would be for just about 15-20 minutes around mid day. Your enclosure needs time to fully dry out. At night I leave a humidifier on for her and turn it off in the morning. I used to see her drink when I first got her, not so much anymore but I’ve heard that’s normal. Yes, sadly it is. Too many chameleons are secret drinkers.
Fecal Description - darkish brown with a bit of moisture (sometimes greenish brown) and white. She has never been tested for parasites. It’s always a good idea to have a fecal check for parasites.
History - I bought her on Sep 23, 2023 in the NARBC reptile show

I tend to talk a lot, so am splitting this into two parts.

 

[MissSkittles]

Cage Info:
Cage Type - 18x18x24 screen type I’ve wrapped 2 sides in vinyl. This is way too small for an adult chameleon. This will be a source of chronic stress for her and she needs an upgrade asap. The minimum standard size is 2x2x4’, which is an XL ReptiBreeze. This is very similar to the ReptiBreeze, but is a bit sturdier. The prices are comparable. https://www.diycages.com/collection...ducts/sc4-48x24x24-jumbo-vertical-screen-cage
Lighting - i use the zoo med topical uvb and heat lighting dual kit as well as the jungle dawn. The uvb is the first light that turns on at 8:20am, then the heat lamp, the jungle dawn turns on at 8:30am, and at night jungle dawn turns off first at 9:10am, then heat lamp, then uvb at 9:30am ish. I want to buy the Arcadia pro T5 but I’m waiting until I get the 2x2x4 ft enclosure *ah…you are upgrading - excellent. which isn’t until Nov., is that okay? Afraid not. Correct Uvb is one of the most important items and can not wait. The screw in uvb is basically worthless unless she’s only 2” below it, and then she’s at high risk for burns being that close.
Temperature - during the day it’s around 80 in the basking area and the bottom it’s high 70s. In the night with the humidifier on it usually drops to the 60s and high 50s. Sounds great!
Humidity - during the day it’s around 40-50% and at night it stays around high 60-75 . I mist in the mornings and at night and I leave my humidifier on all night next to the enclosure. I use a zoo med hydrometer. Is your hygrometer digital or analog? The analog ones are notoriously inaccurate. Your humidity is within the ideal 30-50% range, but I wonder if it’s actually a bit higher than what you think. Higher humidity would cause poor shedding.
Plants - i am only using live plants. I have 2 pothos, 2 dwarf schefflera, and a dracaena Cinthia Excellent! If you have fake ones, you can attach them to the outside of the enclosure door for more privacy for your girl.
Placement - She’s near a corner in my room, far from the entrance, so she gets less disturbances. Great!
Location: Texas
While I can’t be 100% certain, I suspect your pretty girl is having stuck shed from too much humidity or moisture. In such a small enclosure, there’s really no room for decent gradients in both temps and humidity. Do you have any substrate in the floor? If so, best to remove it and keep a bare floor. Not only does substrate (non-bioactive) become a bacterial breeding ground, but it will hold in humidity. When misting, do take extra care to mist away from where she is. Also, until you get the larger enclosure, try reducing your night time fogging to just 2-3 hours in the very early morning hours. Timers are inexpensive and oh so helpful.
The sunken eyes are a bit hard to see in that pic. I’m assuming it’s shadow from the shed and interference from the screen, but her face looks quite thin. For as much as you’ve been overfeeding her, she should be looking more plump. I’d really like to see a clearer pic of her to determine if she’s thin or it’s just shadows.
I haven’t even mentioned anything about her lay bin and all that. It’s always best to keep a lay bin as a permanent part of the enclosure…saves stress on the both of you. Do you need any info or have any questions about egg laying? Just ask.

 

[andre_24]

Chameleon Info:
Your Chameleon - Did they say if she’s ever laid eggs or not?
No, they didn’t
I’d really like some clearer pics of her.
I’ll leave some I took this morning below!
Handling - Ok. Sounds like you’re working on building trust with her, which is excellent. https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/building-trust-with-your-chameleon.2396/
Yes, I’ve heard it’s a good idea to I’m just afraid I’ll stress her though, thanks for the link I’ll take a look when I can!
Feeding - If she is a year old, you are way overfeeding her. The more you overfeed, the more eggs she’ll be producing, which more eggs increases risks for laying problems and shortens lifespans. You want to reduce her to 3-4 feeders, 3 days a week, plus occasional treats. Keep her basking temp no higher than 80 along with this. It may take a cycle, but this should greatly reduce the number of eggs she produces, the frequency which she lays eggs and possibly will prevent her from producing any eggs at all.
Alright, is it okay to immediately decrease her amount of food, or slowly decrease it?
Great! Variety is important. Attaching some graphics below. Thank you!!!
Preferably she should be fed in the morning so she has all day to bask and digest.
The earliest I could do is when her lights go on (8:20) because of school. ):
Good, but you could maybe add to it to round it out. The healthier your bugs are, the more nutritious they are.
I’ll try adding some collard greens and dandelion leaves
Supplements - . Yes, but no. Alternate using the ReptiVite and D3, so that they aren’t given the same day. For example, give the ReptiVite on the 1st & 15th and the D3 on the 7th & 21st. There are combination products that are formulated to be a multivitamin and D3 that would be given one feeding every other week. Reptivite withD3 is one and the other is Repashy calcium plus LoD. I forgot to include this, but I don’t give them the same day I give the reptivite the 1st&15th of the month and then give the calcium with D3 the 2nd &16th does that work?
Watering - How long does the dripper run for? Ideally it would be for just about 15-20 minutes around mid day. Your enclosure needs time to fully dry out. I usually fill it around the same time I feed her (2:30pm ish). And it runs for 20-30 mins.
Yes, sadly it is. Too many chameleons are secret drinkers.
its so cute though
Fecal Description - It’s always a good idea to have a fecal check for parasites.
I’d really like to but my parents will think I’m overreacting I’ll try to get it done by the end of this year.
I tend to talk a lot, so am splitting this into two parts.
Same, and thank you this is really helpful


shes mostly this color and im not sure if its normal, also I’ve noticed her stomach has been looking fuller since 2 days ago, so I think she might be carrying some eggs, though she’s not showing the mustard green and blue spots..

 

[andre_24]

Cage Info:
Cage Type - This is way too small for an adult chameleon. This will be a source of chronic stress for her and she needs an upgrade asap. The minimum standard size is 2x2x4’, which is an XL ReptiBreeze. This is very similar to the ReptiBreeze, but is a bit sturdier. The prices are comparable. https://www.diycages.com/collection...ducts/sc4-48x24x24-jumbo-vertical-screen-cage
I think the earliest I can buy it is next week, I’ll make sure to do that asap.
Lighting - Afraid not. Correct Uvb is one of the most important items and can not wait. The screw in uvb is basically worthless unless she’s only 2” below it, and then she’s at high risk for burns being that close.
I thought it at least went 10” deep I’ll order that this week! Since the other enclosure won’t come in until a later time, would I have to place the uvb light higher than her enclosure until the 2x2x4 ft one comes in?
Humidity - Is your hygrometer digital or analog? The analog ones are notoriously inaccurate. Your humidity is within the ideal 30-50% range, but I wonder if it’s actually a bit higher than what you think. Higher humidity would cause poor shedding.
I use the zoo med digital combo thermometer humidity gauge. The humidity probe is in the farther side of the enclosure, so I think you’re right, the humidity from the humidifier probably doesn’t make it to the probe. I’ll move it closer.
Plants - Excellent! If you have fake ones, you can attach them to the outside of the enclosure door for more privacy for your girl.
that’s a very good idea, I’ll try that!
While I can’t be 100% certain, I suspect your pretty girl is having stuck shed from too much humidity or moisture. In such a small enclosure, there’s really no room for decent gradients in both temps and humidity. Do you have any substrate in the floor? If so, best to remove it and keep a bare floor.
I put newspaper on the bottom which I clean once a week but I wanted to get a drainage tray and put pvc pipes on top so that it’s not sitting on anything.
Not only does substrate (non-bioactive) become a bacterial breeding ground, but it will hold in humidity. When misting, do take extra care to mist away from where she is.
Yes, I never spray her directly.
Also, until you get the larger enclosure, try reducing your night time fogging to just 2-3 hours in the very early morning hours. Timers are inexpensive and oh so helpful.
I will do that, thanks
The sunken eyes are a bit hard to see in that pic. I’m assuming it’s shadow from the shed and interference from the screen, but her face looks quite thin. For as much as you’ve been overfeeding her, she should be looking more plump. I’d really like to see a clearer pic of her to determine if she’s thin or it’s just shadows.
Let me know if you need more pictures than the ones above!!
I haven’t even mentioned anything about her lay bin and all that. It’s always best to keep a lay bin as a permanent part of the enclosure…saves stress on the both of you. Do you need any info or have any questions about egg laying? Just ask.
So far for the lay bin, I have prewashed play sand and a bit of a smaller container it’s around 6 x 12 in and 5 in deep as a larger one does not fit in the enclosure

 

[andre_24]

I’ll be putting my feedback in bold.
Chameleon Info:
Your Chameleon - She’s a veiled chameleon and I believe she’s a female. Yes, looks like a pretty little lady to me. I asked the vendor and he said she was almost a year old. Did they say if she’s ever laid eggs or not? I’ve had her for 3 and a half weeks and I bought her at a reptile show. Shes still been mainly dark colors with occasional greens when i feed her and a pale-ish brown which im not sure if it‘s normal... I’d really like some clearer pics of her.
Handling - I’ve only handled her twice, the day I got her, and to put her on a plant while I cleaned her enclosure (which I’m never doing again). I’ve also been putting the hornworms or dubias on my arm and Moe (cham) climbs on my arm to eat the bug and i let her go back to her enclosure after and leave the rest on a food tray. Ok. Sounds like you’re working on building trust with her, which is excellent. https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/building-trust-with-your-chameleon.2396/
Feeding - I’m currently only feeding her medium sized dubias (10-12 a day) with an occasional hornworm. If she is a year old, you are way overfeeding her. The more you overfeed, the more eggs she’ll be producing, which more eggs increases risks for laying problems and shortens lifespans. You want to reduce her to 3-4 feeders, 3 days a week, plus occasional treats. Keep her basking temp no higher than 80 along with this. It may take a cycle, but this should greatly reduce the number of eggs she produces, the frequency which she lays eggs and possibly will prevent her from producing any eggs at all. I’m getting her bsfl, waxworms, and hornworms next week as I’m trying to integrate more insects in her diet. Great! Variety is important. Attaching some graphics below. I feed her at 2:30 ish when I get home from school. Preferably she should be fed in the morning so she has all day to bask and digest. I gut load the dubias with carrots, apples, sweet potatoes, and bee pollen pellets. Good, but you could maybe add to it to round it out. The healthier your bugs are, the more nutritious they are.
Supplements - I’m currently using the repti calcium by zoo med (without D3) for every feeding. I also have the zoo med reptivite vitamins (without D3) and the PangeaCal calcium (with D3). I’m guving her Reptivite and PangeaCal twice a month (the 1st of the month and the 15th). Yes, but no. Alternate using the ReptiVite and D3, so that they aren’t given the same day. For example, give the ReptiVite on the 1st & 15th and the D3 on the 7th & 21st. There are combination products that are formulated to be a multivitamin and D3 that would be given one feeding every other week. Reptivite with D3 is one and the other is Repashy calcium plus LoD.
Watering - I mist in the morning and at night until I can see water dripping from the plants. I also keep a homemade dripper in the enclosure and it drips onto the leaves and into a container that I clean every time it’s full. How long does the dripper run for? Ideally it would be for just about 15-20 minutes around mid day. Your enclosure needs time to fully dry out. At night I leave a humidifier on for her and turn it off in the morning. I used to see her drink when I first got her, not so much anymore but I’ve heard that’s normal. Yes, sadly it is. Too many chameleons are secret drinkers.
Fecal Description - darkish brown with a bit of moisture (sometimes greenish brown) and white. She has never been tested for parasites. It’s always a good idea to have a fecal check for parasites.
History - I bought her on Sep 23, 2023 in the NARBC reptile show

I tend to talk a lot, so am splitting this into two parts.
View attachment 345212View attachment 345213

Here is another picture of her, I added her lay bin in her enclosure, and as soon as I did she turned light green. Do you happen to have a clue on whether that means she’s stressed or happy about it?
Also I realized I did not hit reply to your other responses I’m still trying to figure out how the website works

 

[leedragon]

Here is another picture of her, I added her lay bin in her enclosure, and as soon as I did she turned light green. Do you happen to have a clue on whether that means she’s stressed or happy about it?
Also I realized I did not hit reply to your other responses I’m still trying to figure out how the website works

are you supplementing with vitamin a?