Sengel won't eat, help!

polemonkey

New Member
She won't eat!

Cage Info:
Cage Type - Custom Screen, 48"hx24"lx12w"
Lighting - 13watt Full spectrum fluorescent 12+ hrs, 60watt incandescent incase cage gets cold 1-2hrs.
Temperature - tops about 85-90, bottom 65-75? 65? mercury thermometer?
Humidity - Not exactly sure. Mist twice a day and sometimes three time(warm water)
Plants - Violas, Palm, type of ribbon plant
Placement - Game room, not alot of traffic or noise, about 6' tall fromthe ground. By a window without uv protection.
Location - Tulsa, OK

Chameleon Info:
Your Chameleon - Sengel; Yearling, had it for little over a month
Handling - about once every two days
Feeding - Gut loaded(apple, fish food) crikets, mealworms, wax worms, grubs, worms, moths, beatles. Since i have own has only eating a couple of crikets, a mealworm and wax and moth. Try to feed in the morning and at night, Leave crikets and moths in over night and mealworms are there all the time.
Supplements - Haven't yet she wont eat!
Watering - Mist twice a day at a minute intervals, and a drip system. Yes she drinks.
Fecal Description - Orange and white, solid. Yes, Administered parasite and worm removal treatment.
History - she does close her eyes during the day. She also closes her eyes when i mist and she doesn't seem to like it. Very active. Been to the bottom of the cage once.
Current Problem - She won't eat.
Thanks, Stuart
 
try to handle her minus once a week...

and how many insects are in the terrarium at the same time ?
and how warm is the warm water:confused:
and for how long has hunger strike lasted?
 
Stuart-most Senegals are WC and do not acclimate very well to captivity-let alone handling her. She really should not be handled at all. Have you had a fecal done? Most WC's have some kind of parasite load. "Window without UVB protection"???? UVB does not pass through almost all glass and plastic, and unless you own a UVB meter I would not count on that window for UVB. As for your 13W full spectrum-is that a twisty compact bulb? Those are known to cause eye issues in chameleons and are considered dangerous. Sounds like your thermometer is a bit old style and probably not giving you the best temp readings either. As far as poo-is there also a brown part? If she is not eating the brown part will be absent, but orange and white urates is a sign of dehydration. Again-WC Senegals are usually difficult to keep.
 
Ya, i smeared the feces and found parasites. Giving her a worm rid. No it is not the twistie ones, it is a special one, looks more like to horse shoes. The hunger stike has been for almost a month. I read some where that they turn brown when not basking and black when stressed. But never turns these colors when held. Anyways here are some pics. P1010094.JPG
 
try to give her a 125w solar glo... or some thing simular that´s the best spot I´ve ever spend my mony on and give her some hours spread out the day
 
Ya, i smeared the feces and found parasites. Giving her a worm rid. No it is not the twistie ones, it is a special one, looks more like to horse shoes. The hunger stike has been for almost a month. I read some where that they turn brown when not basking and black when stressed. But never turns these colors when held. Anyways here are some pics.View attachment 10334

They can be difficult to acclimate and slow to recover from problems. I have relied on as much natural sunshine as possible and a lot of water. Those two things help with acclimating any chameleon, but I find it the most helpful with senegalensis and gracilis.

It's always a gamble with WCs. Lots of patience, parasite checks and little to no handling.
 
Okay, I took my cham to the vet yesterday, because her sunk in, she was becoming weak, and wouldn't leave the bottom of the cage. I force feed her the other night a 2 crickets and a meal worm. The vet is puzzled so he took a feces sample and some blood. She gave a shot of vitamins and told me to keep her in natural sun light and hydrated. Is there anything else I could do for her. Thanks
 
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